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@@jake17522 I didn't. They can usually be reused a couple times

Ok, it must be just a regular washer not a crush washer like Toyota uses.

@@TrevorGorham yes, no wierd threads on this

I did this today. Yes it was tight. I used a pair of pliers. Turn it 90 and its ready to open. Turn it 180 and its open.

Maybe. But sounds more like the throw out bearing might be bad.

I haven't found anything in writing so far for the manual transmission. Most came with the automatic and they say it is lifetime fluid and never needs to be changed. Previous vehicles I've owned with a manual trans seemed to be anywhere between 50k miles and 100k miles. I changed the oil in this just because of the rough shifting. But bleeding the clutch seemed to help the shifting more than the fluid change, so I would try this first if it's rough.

There was improvement, but seems no matter what this transmission is gonna be a little rough

Generally will be the same process for all vehicles with a manual transmission. You will just want to verify if you have the turn style nipple like mine, or if they went back to needing a wrench for your model year. My Dodge on the other hand, does not have a bleeder at all. It is a closed system with the master cylinder, hose and slave cylinder all in one. If there is a leak, I have to replace the entire system on that truck. I doubt mazda would do anything like this tho

@@thechauffeur9726 appreciate the response thank you

Yes it is the same. My bleeder nipple was too tight to turn by hand I needed a wrench

Or… did you buy the kit without the plastic pull handle and display face and then just use your original pieces with the new internal pieces I’m seeing on Amazon?

I don't see any receipt in my email, so I believe I got this from the local Napa auto parts. It was just the switch and I had to transfer the face plate and pull knob into it

I’m having the exact same issue with my 98.5 second gen I can’t fine any info on it. When I start driving I have about 10 minutes of headlights before they start flickering for a while then eventually quit all together. I give them a break and they work again like described. Did the new switch fix your issue?

Those tabs are unreasonably stiff for sure! Glad the video helped!

If you have the transmission fluid bottles with the fill nipple/cap you can get the right size fuel/vacuum hose to stick on it. Probably would need it long enough to fill it from over the engine bay so you can turn the bottle upside down and get someone to hold the other end of the hose into the transmission

The bleeding process will be the same(except you might actually need a wrench), but many of the older vehicles will have a separate smaller reservoir next to the brake master cylinder/reservoir that is for the clutch fluid. The model I have uses the same fluid reservoir as the brakes for the clutch. Both styles uses brake fluid so just make sure you are topping off with the correct fluid, usually listed on the cap (dot 3, dot 4, etc)

@@thechauffeur9726 okay, have been struggling getting it to bleed fully. I can get into gear if the cars off but when running I can’t get into gear or change gears when driving. Could there be a hole in the line sucking air back in? I have never done this but would like to get it done myself to not have a mechanic bill. Thanks for your help MUCH appreciated

@maxwelldrebenstedt1619 could be a hole, so might look along the line for any leak. Just want to make sure your helper inside is keeping the pedal to the floor until you have the bleeder screw/valve fully closed. Then let the pedal up and try again. Don't let the reservoir get too low while doing this also

Yes, looks like 1.8 qts is 1.7 liters

@@thechauffeur9726 thanks!

Not that I'm aware of to fit that plug. Other one lasted 20 years and 200,000 miles tho

I didn't see much change after replacing the fluid, but many others did from what I read in mazda forums. The biggest change I saw was after bleeding the clutch cylinder (I have another video on that)

I replaced the gearbox oil at 90k. I wasn’t sure because the manual said lifetime. I had the same notchy gears but felt a lot better after the change. Don’t follow the manual. Change the oil.

More dependent on your climate and what's available. I've read 75w-80, 75w-85, and 75w-90 depending on who your asking (mazda, amsoil, or forums) Even the engine oil has different recommendations from mazda. Says 0W-20 on the cap but mazda says you can use up to 5w-30 when in hotter climates or if you cannot get the lighter weight oil. I run 0w 20 in winter and 5w20 in summer since it's in the hundreds for a couple months here

I'm not sure. It only had 170,000 miles on it when I got it, and that seal was pretty degraded on the thermostat I pulled out. Rarely got up to 180 degrees during the winter, running no load. And it rarely drops below 30°F in my area. It actually warms up now and will drop to 180 if I'm idling in the cold with the new 190 thermostat. I don't have to block the radiator off now in my area

@@thechauffeur9726 They could have changed the recommendation to a 190 over the years too. My truck had a 180 in it too because the guy thought a 190 made it run too hot lmao. 10 degrees won't make a difference. runs the same temp range as my 6.7 cummins, it ran too cold with that 180 especially with it being 105 outside

@@thechauffeur9726 I wonder if I need to change out the thermostat occasionally so that oring doesn't go bad. Mines like 10 years old in my 6.7 I think. The coolant gets changed every 5 years or so I just never bothered changing the thermostat

Think I need a new battery. I've cleaned it a couple times and every 3 months it's looking like a chia pet

Ya I initially say 90 degrees but then as I'm doing it I correct to 180 degrees a little further into the video

One I had laying around from one of my 80's Toyota pickups. Maybe 1/8" but I'm not sure of the exact size

@@thechauffeur9726 thank you. I'm going to go pick one up right now. I imagine that it just needs to be snug against the valve.

I'm sorry one more question, do you have a link to the TSB? I can't find it online. Also, I think there's a cap on top of the slave cylinder. Can I just pull that out?

@gagebillingsley1025 Honestly, I have not been able to find it again. I'm starting to wonder if the TSB was for a different year. But seems like on most of the mazda forums the solution has been to change the transmission fluid or bleed the clutch system. I did both and seemed like bleeding the clutch helped the most. There was a rubber plug on the bleeder nipple of mine. Removed that, stuck the hose on, and could open the plastic nipple by hand turning it 90-180 degrees counter clockwise to bleed it

@thechauffeur9726 got it thanks. I actually posted your video on Mazda3 Revolution in response to somebody having a spongy clutch haha.

Thanks! Haven't posted a follow up for the clutch slave cylinder bleeding yet, but I did find on my model you can open up the bleeder valve by hand from above. It's a plastic valve and I did some gravity bleeding which helped. I'm not sure if your year is like this as well since it's the same generation, or maybe you need a wrench?

You will have to drain some coolant out or have your upper radiator hose dump out over everything. I drained it all as it has never been changed since I owned it and didn't know if it ever had been. Don't worry about it

You throwing out a white power sign?? Fuck out here high school drop out

@@thechauffeur9726 grow up ya cock sucker I'm the only one that graduated outta five siblings

@@christianmcrae5389 sounds like you come from a family of idiots. Graduating high school isn't hard and you inbreds could only manage a 20% graduation rate.

Glad this video helped! Cheers

The MAP/Idle air control sensor is the same between the about that year Chrysler and this Mitsubishi. Part number RM31320001. The fuel pressure regulator may be different

@@thechauffeur9726 yeah it looks like the park is PS10078.

MAF seems to be pretty common for the code and symptoms too. I'd bet on the MAF

Po421 is a cat code

@@jedidias7091 you're right, I was thinking of 303

@@jedidias7091 you're right, I was thinking of 303

@@thechauffeur9726 random cylinder miss I think that is. But can be fron multiple reasons

I didn't have anyone to hold the camera for me and only have two hands. I didn't damage the old switch coming out anymore than it was already damaged. Listen to what I say in the video. Hold that springed plunger down, and pulled the knob completely out of the switch. Then get some pliers and screw off that piece I show you. Then it's apart. No video for because it's actually really easy, so calm your caps lock and try it before you get frustrated

Where can you find the part?

Junk yard if you wanna get it cheap

It would hesitate under acceleration

Probably better terminology

They both have used NV4500 transmissions but I believe there are some differences between them depending on gas and diesel models

Could be EGR related also. I'm fighting issues with this now. Seems like once I hit 200k it's been one problem after the other

@@thechauffeur9726 Same for me, around 200k miles is when a lot of parts start to go bad. I still like the car though, I don't regret the money and time spent keeping it up. It handles great, and it's got a ton of carrying space. My misfire is getting worse. I don't think it's the throttle shaft leaks, I'm pretty sure one of the two ignition coils is going out. The tach doesn't drop to zero, it drops by half the current RPM. I'm going to check the plugs and replace both coils pretty soon.