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Yeah right on. It works well once you get the hang of it and get rolling. Yes, definitely better to do fluid movements and not stop during a rotation, but yeah because we were doing it in the tractor with the rad still in place there wasn't much room to play with. Thanks for the comment, Greg

Hmm.. sounds like you may have to use a sprocket puller then if you cannot remove the bearing cap. Will the plastic cover flex or bend enough to fit the cap out? I would recommend you try a sprocket puller, or any two or three jaw puller (always pull on the centre hub of the sprocket though, never the outside), and just go slow and careful. It should not take much to pop it loose. Best of luck! Thanks, Greg

@@GBProductions0 It looks different than on your engine and a jaw puller is impossible. I tried welding it on. I then drilled and tapped M8's right next to the shaft and use a puller for harmonic dampener to put the sprocket under tension and *then* giving it a whack as instructed. It worked... but now I need to install a new sprocket, new shaft seal, and to reseal the cap that I loosened.

Hmm, I guess Volkswagen must have a special tool for removing that sprocket, as they do with most things. Looking at a picture of your sprocket online quickly, it looks like it would definitely be a low profile 2 or 3 jaw puller hooked in the weight reduction/balance holes in the web of the sprocket. Tension it up then whack it with a hammer. You may be able to find one that would fit, or could also make something that would work for you for next time.

@@GBProductions0 The right tool is a 6 mm punch that you insert from behind through a hole in the cover. Using a puller through the holes would be difficult and there is no special VW puller made for this purpose, at least it is not listed as a T4 special tool at T4wiki. It worked great drilling and tapping the sprocket. Should have done that earlier as I have a spare engine.

That's a good thought! I would have to find or make a fairly long one to have enough leverage, but yeah that would probably work quite nicely. Thanks for the idea! Greg

Happy to help! Thanks.

Hmm, maybe check the adjustment on the cable and make sure the travel is enough to fully engage the collar. If the truck is in the air and there's no load on it, the driver's side axle may very well spin anyway. Was the CAD functioning properly prior to the swap to cable control? I have heard of the teeth inside the sleeve shearing off as well in extreme cases. Might be worth a look into that. Let us know how you make out. Greg

@@GBProductions0 thanks for the reply! Turns out I needed to ad more gear oil.

Well hey, they're pretty decent quality tools for fairly low prices! Haha Great starter tools for anyone who doesn't have a lot of money to spend on tools and equipment like Snap-On or others. Thanks for the comment! Greg

@@GBProductions0 I do have to agree they are probably the best bang for your buck.

Good to know! Thanks for the information! Greg

It can be found on the channel page in the playlist named after the car. All of the work done on all of our cars are filed under playlists. CZcams likely won't recommend it to you naturally due to the way their algorithm works. - Mitchell

Thanks for the comment! I didn't include anything on that because it doesn't actually matter. I have my switch connected to my router via port 1, with my other devices on ports 2-5. These switches are more akin to a glorified Ethernet splitter than a normal enterprise grade managed switch (at least in the way I'm using it). Some other models have PoE (Power over Ethernet) which in that case you have to use certain ports (usually 1 and 5) but this model doesn't have that. - Mitchell

That is correct. There is no change in functionality from the factory setup, other than the fact that it will actually work as intended from the factory as there is no delay or failure possibility due to the vacuum actuator that was replaced by the cable. It does lock the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft together, but that's it. Thanks.

@@GBProductions0 Thank you sir. Much appreciated!

Hi there, I'll have to give that a try on my next one! Thanks for the info! Greg

Hi there, Thanks for the comment! Yes, I would normally put the nut on flush with the end of the threads to protect them and give a larger puller surface area. Not sure why I didn't do that in this video, I usually do. But yes, great advice for someone trying this out on their own. Thanks, Greg

Thanks for the additional information!

Thank you very much!

The Bentley Factory Service Manual for the Mk.IV Jetta and Golf was used for this job. It was probably mentioned in some of the earlier videos. Greg may have went a little off script from what the manual says in certain parts due to side jobs he wanted to do at the same time, but this manual is pretty much perfect. Here's an amazon link to the manual but Barnes & Noble etc. likely would have it as well: www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-Service-Manual/dp/0837616786/ - Mitchell

Hi there, These running boards had pretty much every type of bit and size from 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 8mm, 10mm, Phillips #2, Robertson #2 and #3. Pretty much you name it, we had it. Hope that helps. Thanks, Greg

Thank you their such a bitch to get off

Thank you! My truck had no vacuum to the climate control when I got it, so there was no effect from having the vacuum lines to the axle disconnected. The brake booster vacuum was a separate line. So I ended up taking the single feed line that went to the transfer case and connecting that to my climate control so it would function properly. But in your case, I would just plug the single feed line that goes to the transfer case, and you could even remove the extra hoses from the transfer case to the axle as they aren't needed anymore. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, Yes, I found that it's a pain to get out of 4x4 sometimes as well. I found for mine the best way to do it was to always engage the axle first, and then switch the transfer case. Then when coming out of 4x4 always switch the transfer case first, then disengage the axle. I had the best luck with this method. And it did work better most times to be rolling just very slowly while engaging the axle. Sometimes I would still have trouble with the axle lock cable, and usually moving the truck forward or backwards combined with a bit of steering each direction would realign the front shafts so the collar sleeve could move freely. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Thanks for the great reply , glad to know I’m not alone. I will certainly try your method , I had to drive all the way to work in 4x4 the other day lol. Still beats the vacuum though 😂

Right on! Yeah I've been stuck in 4x4 and had to drive a bit once or twice. But yes, certainly better than the vacuum diaphragm! Only thing I would like better is manual locking hubs like I had on my '70 PowerWagon. Thanks!

Thank you! This car had about 330,000km on it when I did this work. It is now at almost 370,000km. Thanks! Greg

Thank you very much! Greg

Hi there, These racks are not Thule, they are Volkswagen OEM. Thanks! Greg

Thanks 🤘

Hi there, That's bad luck! Always something with a project you buy. As far as I am concerned, as long as the inner machined surface of the flange is sitting within the lip of the oil seal, you should be fine. I don't recall specifically how far out the flanges on mine sat when installed, but as long as the sealing surface mentioned above is at least 1/4" into the oil seal, it should be fine and not leak on you. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hello, I believe it is shown in the videos, but I have a custom made plate with mounting holes that fasten to the crankshaft timing sprocket and then rotates against the subframe/control arm to allow for torqueing of the crankshaft bolt. There is also a VW SST (Special Service Tool) that is listed in the service manual and is likely available through various sources online. Thanks for the comment! Greg

I believe the crossover tube was purchased from Rock Auto - Mitchell

@@GBProductions0 finally found one local on a junk motor

Not that we know of. Your best bet is to use Facebook Marketplace or something similar to try and find a good used set. - Mitchell

Right on! I will share these thoughts with the owner of the car! - Mitchell

Bought mine back in May I love it

Hello, Sorry to say I'm not 100% sure if the seals are the same between the 2.0L and the TDI, but I would think they are very similar if not the same. The process should be almost identical. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, Yes, I borrowed an alignment tool from a new clutch replacement kit to align the friction disk and pressure plate. Yeah I would say you probably pushed the seal into the transmission, because you should never have fluid coming out between the engine and transmission. You may be able to get an alignment tool online or just stop by a shop and ask if they have one you could use. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, That's unfortunate to hear about the head and camshaft bearing caps! The best advice I can give is to bring all the bearing caps down together. To reduce stress concentrations you need to take all the cap nuts down equally. I would not do more than like 1/4 turn on each at one time and cycle through all of them. Let me know how you make out. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hey, thanks for the comment! Yeah that would have been ideal to do that. We didn't have the camera equipment at the time to be able to film in a confined, dark space properly. Assuming I'm available to help Greg with the next phase of this project (whenever that may be), we should be able to get much better footage in future videos. - Mitchell

@@GBProductions0 It got much better just minutes after I commented. Thanks to your efforts I was able to start up '95 Cummins 5.9L w/o extensive labor or further expenses. Thank you. ela

Hey there, Glad you found the video helpful! Yes I always resort to replacing all the oil seals even if they look new as it's not worth the extra time and frustration to pull it back apart again if it starts leaking and risk getting oil on the new belt. Yeah you should be good for another few hundred thousand miles. I know several of these cars that are over 750,000km+ with original turbos and injection pumps. Thanks for the comment! Greg

@@GBProductions0 Next time I replace the water pump and timing belt I'm definitely doing the seals after I do it this time around. 😂 Have you ever watched Thomas EXOVCDS here on themtubes? He's a mechanic in Canada and has a customer who's got the same tdi and it turned one million km not long ago. All my friends tell me to get a new ride but I'm happy without a car note and getting in upwards of 40-45 mpg. Have a blessed day. 🍻 brother.

I have not watched Thomas before, but I might have to check it out! Yeah, these TDIs are really bulletproof though if maintained correctly. I have no intention of getting a newer car at any point, I'm happy with my older Diesels and TDIs as well. Thanks, you as well!

Hello, Yes the camshaft appears to be great. It has about 23,000km on it now. There was a slight change in sound when I first got it going, but not a huge difference. I think there is a slight increase in power from before. I have not inspected it since unfortunately as it is not a quick task to remove and reinstall the valve cover. I will hopefully be completing the stage 2 tune shortly and an update video will come out. Thanks for the comment! Greg

@@GBProductions0 aye thanks ! curious on what break in oil cocktail you went with and how many miles did you run it??? Just got mine in this last Friday. It’s been running great so far. I’m running sae 30 conventional oil. With stp engine honey and a half a bottle of zinc additive. Changing in 500 miles. I’m 100 miles into this new camshaft and the car hasn’t ran this good. It’s funny how these motors have this stigma that you never have to change or inspect the camshaft and followers. This fixed my whole misfire issue. Little over $200 and like 2 hours of work? Bet

I didn't do anything special with oil, just used the normal engine oil and followed the break in procedure provided with the camshaft. I don't think I even did an oil change right at the time. I run 10w40 synthetic year round usually. Great to hear the camshaft is working well and resolved your issue! I had a little bit of a weird rough idle a few times near the start of the new camshaft, but I'm guessing it was just the car relearning to some extent.

Thanks for the info! I would agree with that as I also have a good amount of precision machining experience. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, I'm not too sure what that would be for. My guess is something to do with holding the blade in the correct position perhaps. Do you have a similar type of reamer to what I have? Thanks for the comment! Greg

Glad you have been enjoying it! I'm really excited about this project, just haven't had time to get back to it. Almost finished post secondary school so hopefully can get back on track with some projects soon. Thanks for the comment! Greg

It is indeed! Wasn't planning on doing it right now, but that's just how things go! Greg

Hi there, Yes I have also been amazed at the things that do still work as well! Agreed there are not many videos on the specifics of these cars. Glad to hear you found the videos useful! Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, That sounds odd! The 1999 models should have a plastic push tab that secures the light instead of a screw. Perhaps the front clip has been swapped from a newer model or has been messed with by someone else. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hello, I did use my impact gun to remove the crankshaft bolt and I do not recall having to hold the crankshaft still. It is easier to remove if you still have the serpentine belt connect for some extra resistance. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

Creo que cabría en un 3500 de 1999. Lo acabo de pedir en línea, hay muchos sitios web que venden kits como este.

Thanks for the comment, Yeah it's a pretty rough job. When we were working on this car, it was still really early days of filming car work for us, we really didn't plan out what we were doing very well, and we weren't very familiar with how complicated E46's are either. I think next time we get an E46 having this experience, things will go a lot more smoothly. Also, That $300 quote to have a shop do it is a really good deal, unbelievable really, considering the pipes themselves costed us nearly that much in 2021 Canadian dollars. - Mitchell

Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful!