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Any flat glossy paper will do. I am using the Metallic Photo paper due to the unique way it reflects light. It is not quite as white as it could be but sometimes effect is a bigger consideration than gamma.

@@LuminousViewsGallery What brand are you using?

@@toto_chanel6952 Moab Pearl is ultimately the nicest look but Epson is right there and nowhere as fragile (I do work like a clutz at times believe it or not). Go ahead and call me if you want more specifics.

​@@LuminousViewsGallery Are you referring to Slickrock Metallic Pearl 260? Didn't know that paper, in Europe Moab is not very well developed. How does it compared to Hahnemühle Photo Rag Metallic 340g?

Let me know and thanks for watching.

Are you the Victor in Spain?

Backing is 1/8 sheet if optically clear acrylic. The adhesive is a double sided optically clear facemount adhesive. Thanks for asking and contact me through my site if you have more questions. Luminous-Views.com

Patience, meditation and the DRS techniques with flashlight. More times you find out how not to do it (many would say fail) the closer you get success.

The photo paper is Epson Metallic Glossy and the adhesive is Optically Clear Double Sided Facemount. Thank you for asking.

English?

It is reclaimed pierwood planks. You watch the video?

@@LuminousViewsGallery Yep. My thought was if the dust contained therein was from multiple sources of wood?

@@glasshammer291 it's not.

I am gonna follow that lead even if I gotta do everything here. Thank you for sharing.

You are way too kind to me Allene. Thank you.

i do not understand what you are saying.

Cleaner. Use it to get rid of static and clean. Alcohol and ammonia free. Like what you would use to clean an LCD. NOT GLASS CLEANER

Acrylic sheet, double sided optically clear adhesive, flat glossy photo print and various tools. If you need more help please call me, Michael, at 619-231-9061

thanks in advance 👍🏻

If you are in San Diego I would be happy to share how exactly how I did those edges. That is not that much coin for all the equipment. The investment was time mostly.

@@BlockchainForWhatIsBest Thanks for getting back to me. If I'm ever out your way I'd love to check out your technique.

To get the edges polished like that I use 6 levels of sanding starting at 100 grit paper and going to 3500 grit. The last two grit pads are specially made for car paint. When i get busy enough i will get the $5000 machine as it will save all kinds of time. What is your product?

@@LuminousViewsGallery Thank you so much for your response! I currently do wood work, I make 3D logo signs. But I am looking to get into making these acrylic face mounted art. I am just getting started, I ordered the facemount adhesive roll and a cheap manual laminator just to start of. I have been watching all types of videos in youtube and yours is the only one I see that shows the polished edge so nice. I could not have imagined it was sanded! I thought it was the diamond machine you had. It looks amazing. I have tried sanding the acrylic down but only to 320 and then doing the flame. Which helps but I guess I was missing going even higher on the sanding disk. However, since I have a company that provides the acrylic with the polished edges at an extra charge, I may skip this step all together. But I do see that you polished it after mounting the print, is there a reason for this? Also, do you do the flame afterwards or just sanding it down?

@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 I used to flame polish after 800 grit but the extra fine grit with extra time technique is most consistent and I never do too much (bubbles and burns) or too little (dull) flame/gloss - i mean without the $5K machine. Have seen laser cuts as perfect as my edges but never seen/watch a laser actually make a PERFECT acrylic cut. It has gotta be dialed in I imagine. I do have a diode laser for wood/leather plaques on my frames. It does cut opaque acrylic but not transparent. Your CO2 laser should make perfect cuts if dialed in I imagine - IN ANY SHAPE

@@LuminousViewsGallery yes I have tried getting a polished edge using my laser but I think its not very consistent, in all honesty I only tested once and yes the results were impressive but not perfect. I may have to play around with the speed and power a little more and see where it gets me. The issue is that I only have a bed with a width of 23.5 inch max and I want to make bigger prints, for that reason, I need to learn another method that gets me polished results. As you say, the laser would be great since it can make any shape, I am thinking about laminating the photo and then cutting the acrylic to a special shape with the settings dialed in for polished finished edges. It may be a great product to sell. But first I need to get the laminating process perfect to then go and test some more 🙂 I am excited! Thanks again for your help! I have one more question, how is the sanding disk that you have, the one that you pass the acrylic edge through before sanding it with the orbital manual sander called? Thanks again! I am impressed I was able to get in touch with you after finding this video!

@@uniquecraftsbyjenn337 it won't be just a speed and power issue to get perfect cuts on acrylic. Your focus and hownthe laser us setup I believe... maybe call the manufacturer. I believe it would be WELL WORTH IT with a machine like that.

Thanks but I don't even use mine really

Thanks heaps for the comment. I do plan on doing more like this.

Thanks heaps for the comment. I do plan on doing more like this.

Thank you for watching. It is how your print was made.

What? No. I am a nerd.

Dude You are forever a hero in my eyes. Your kids have no idea how blessed they are. Thanks man. Happy New Year

You have no idea. Thank you.