Video

How did you release the Freon?

The best tips video of all . Other videos doesn't mention about loosen bolts at the back of the plenum. Thank you

How did you figured out that is the problem?

But like bro you didn't even finish Dow, ya no?

Visit Nissan Assist regarding the 2019 - 2020 Nissan Altima on how Nissan is extending the emission warranty coverage on certain active grille shutter assembly to 15 Years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

Got a same problem here on 04 330ci. I was wondering if i could still drive the car for a week till i get my new thermo

Hi. I have a 2011 Sonata with only 38,000 miles. It has a new battery battery and starter. It has no power to anything and no crank. It started three times using jumper cables, but then stopped that also. What should i check? Thanks.

I have a 2013 that has good battery and new/good stater but nothing happens when key button is pushed. Nothing will power up except the button's little dim light as I'm pushing it. Any ideas where to start? Thanks!

Mine just did the same f****** thing

What was the issue with the 3 fuses that weren’t working?

In my case I have no ac so I’m assuming the process to install is the same 🤔🤔I wanna install my own part

Just what I needed. Thank you

Vg vid! tuned in coz i have 05 bmw x5 and blowing warm air on texas heat. 😅

Wow…. 😅

This guy is an idiot why post a video that is only half ass and useless

Thank you for this , helped

Big help thx !

I did the same year . But , I dropped the sub frame and replaced from the bottom. It's a lot faster and cleaner.

Is it recommended (did you?) to replace the expansion valve along with the compressor?

Thank you finally someone used the letters they give.

Thanks alot 🎉

Thank you so much! This helped so much!!!

This cause my transmission not shift anymore from the fall

Likely got the size for the xrs 2.4l, which would make sense to having a larger radiator as it’s a slighter bigger based engine

It should be blue fluid not red

I got quoted 1200$ for this and another for 400$ parts and labor. If u had to do it again, what would u do differently for efficiency?

Lose 1 side heater ability with ea of those

Yep I definitely got the electric impact wrench with more torque at least 1500 ft -lbs to get the crank bolt off on my son 2005 civic

You didn't do the second camshaft sensor for Bank 1 in the back 🙄

The upper radiator hose nipple what's going to break no matter what you did.

My lower balljoints were a pain to get apart too. I did get them so the lower control arms came down with the subframe. And then i did unbolt the rack and that driver side bolt kicked my ass for a while.

Great video! Is your car AWD or 2WD? I heard the AWD version will need to disassemble of steer rack to raise the engine and transmission.

Great video thank you sir !

You dont grease any shaft for futere removal beside now you need alignment after you disconect shocks from nuckle instead a lower joint bolt not a best advice but it will work

So what led to you checking the coil. I’m working on a 98 Dakota with the 3.9 I have replaced the fuel pump. I have no. Codes stored. I had some miss fire codes to start with. And now I cleared them but still have the no start. I see rpm movement in the gauge I pulled the no1 plug and checked spark there I have spark. But I still can’t seem to figure why it won’t fire. Won’t even pop off on either.

You did a good job with the cleaning but the intake port needed to be cleaning too to get rid of the carbon build up…if the port is dirty, the EGR won’t able to flow freely…I’m going to work on mine soon…

Thanks for the tips on removing the 10mm bolts from the brackets in the bottom. That top middle bracket bolt attached to the plenum manifold took me a few hours of hopping left/right to get a flex wrench in there.😩 I will try to remove the camshaft sensor harness bracket to give me more slack to lift up the bulk wiring. I feel ya' brother about venting and 🤬 those Japanese engineers that designed the locations of the manifold and valve cover...😂.

So i replaced my "AGS", i deleted the check engine, the scanner is just blinking red on and off for "(Fuel, Evap, 025, EGR" ) when i turned the car on it also did a sweep. The P059F code went away yet the other keep blinking. I know they have to do with emissions. Do i have to drive the vehicle until it relearns everything so it can get ready for emissions? And do the shutter recalibrate themselves?

Incredible information thank you

Is this the same on jeep Cherokee 2014 ? Do I have to take the engine apart to reach it?

What are those two cables at 12:11 ?

Siri did a great job love accent hope your back feels better. You made my job a lot easier kind of watching you do it it was my first time doing a 2014 CLA I haven't bought the new thermostat but I hope it comes with that sensor in it didn't look like there's a way of getting it out at least the old one 🤔 I think I'm going to go to the dealership and get a new one from them I wouldn't want to go back in there or if there's some cheap one breaks and I'll be going to be my fault because I went to dang on cheap. God bless you and Israel .ken

Someone stopped us on the road and told us our 2020 Optima passenger side brake light was not working. I checked it and it was dim, seems I have the problem you have.

I’m having the same issue. Oil on the middle spark plug. Time to replace the gasket and tube seals. Thanks for the video.

Looking for a video to see about my 2012 hyundai. No dash board warnings but I did get some codes no codes for transmission engine or no reads for the alternator. Cant go over 40/45 without it going limp.

I tested my water pump using a 12 volt supply and circuit tester, it just hummed and didn’t spin

Best video. To take off the sensor!!!!!

Thank you sir. For taking the time to make this vid.

Rip this fools break line 😂why you playing around with it like that .

When I changed the reservoir, I noticed the connector for the reservoir on the pump was able to be spin around and was able to be manipulated in all directions. I was assuming this piece should be tightly sealed and affixed. Is this correct? I think that potentially broken connector is the cause of my continued leak.