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Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Yes it is a Mopar color, B5 is the code.

Ya I mention that is definitely an option

Just a few lol

Check out the rest of the channel I have several videos on this car.

I can’t wait to finish the other car so I can jump back on this one.

Thank you! Yes, strip to bare metal and sand for adhesion, spray your epoxy. If it lays out flat and there is nothing else to "clean up" with the surface, you can go right to base. (check your paint system TDS sheets if it's okay to do so). I got carried away and did 2 coats of 2K primer surfacer directly after epoxy (waited 1 hour) because I had to fix some things and didn't want it to look like a topographical map. Sanded the 2K with 320 and red scotchbrite depending on access. The reasons I did a final coat of epoxy as a wet-on-wet sealer is because after sanding the 2K surfacer I had a bunch of breakthroughs (bare metal showing), and even though the 320/Red Scotch-brite is a not too coarse, I wanted to make sure there were no fine sand scratches showing through. Don't sand after spraying the final sealer, go straight to base. (unless you need to fix something like a bug or other trash lands in it) The epoxy sealer does two things, it adheres to the bare metal and gives a uniform color for the paint to go over. I over-reduced it a small amount and sprayed it with the same gun I used for the base/clear. (1.3 fluid tip) Laid out nice and flat. Waited 1 hour and sprayed my base, followed by clear of course. Take your time and don't get any runs until your spraying your clear. As its relatively easy to fix. Be sure to follow your TDS sheets and good luck!

Thanks Steve, I appreciate all your help, I’ll definitely look back at the videos to make sure I don’t miss anything. Thanks again for all the advice!

Haha it could be a lot better. There were several times I said "eh its good enough"

Sweet!

Right on!

What are you talking about, this isn't rocket science

@@funhumanusa thanks!

Sounds like a lot of crankcase pressure. There are locking dipsticks available.

I am running a used set so I’m not 100% certain, but I’m pretty sure they are either the Flowtech or Summit brand (also flowtech) long tube headers.

It wound up working fine with just a regular open carb gasket. I would of just expected better from one of the top brands of carbs.

It’s an early cast iron case A833 OD.

Awesome, thank you!

73 and newer use a completely different type of mount. Make sure that the adapter kit you have is for the 73 and up.

You can find me on Instagram by the same title.

I’ve been using it on the engine bay on the 74 Duster. It’s messy and took a couple applications but works well. Also, did I say it’s messy? Lol

I think we may be hearing the significant exhaust leak. I have the wrong (cheapest) exhaust gaskets on it as the headers are temporary. I'm going to be going with iron manifolds. The vacuum gauge is also rock solid, so I don't think there's a valvetrain issue, also have good oil pressure as well. I'll certainly check it out again before I install it in the car. Thanks for the heads up.

I hope it helps! Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have questions when you get to your project!

I don't believe so. I believe it's only the earlier blocks that have the dipstick on the driver side. I'm not 100% sure what year they changed. I haven't played with that many small block Chevy's.

@@roadhardrestorations okay thanks sir I appreciate you help!!!!

Awesome I'm glad it will be of use to you! Let me know if you have any questions during the process!

I’m sure I will, I appreciate that!

Your welcome! Thanks for watching!

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching Joe!

Are you doing the work yourself or having a shop to do it? The labor will eat up a lot if your paying someone. Depending on your skill level, the basics are a good start. First a good tune-up, as in timing. An FBO plate inside a stock style electronic ignition distributor with the “correct for your engine” timing curve, will make a world of difference if your still at the factory specs. Next is Carb/intake, then maybe headers and exhaust. That way when you go the next level and go with a bigger cam and heads you’ll be ready for them.

@@roadhardrestorationsI would have to have someone do the work for me, I don’t have any mechanical skills, what would you estimate the labor to be for those parts?

@@dagreatne55it’s difficult to say. Labor rates vary a lot. Could be anywhere from a couple hundred to over a grand depending on what you have them do. Make sure it’s a shop that is familiar with, or better yet specializes in older vehicles

@@roadhardrestorationssounds good, thanks for the info!

dagreatne55, I have a 1987 D150 with the optional 318. It ia listed in the dealer order sheet as ELC, 4 barrel. It has the 302 swirl chamber heads. I did a lot of research and was told that the factory cast iron manifold flowed nearly as good as an aftermarket aluminum one so I kept mine but changed the electronic feedback 4 barrel for an Edelbrock 1406. Everything to do with emissions has been removed. I wen t to an aftermarket HEI ignition system and bolted on a set of factory manifolds from a 318 Magnum. The give a much better flow into my 21/4" dual exhaust system. Turbo flow mufflers with no cats. That is all I have done other than a 12" chrome air filter, and the thing absolutely screams. This would be a good start for your engine and very little money.

I do remember reading about that before and have seen blocks that have the numbers scribbled on the sides. Were they still doing that in '86 I wonder? (the year of this particular engine)

I'm not certain what years or displacements, but I think all of the 79 and older blocks with the tube on the driver side utilize it.

Main hot wire to the battery, one wire to a light on the dash(optional), one wire to +12v switched ignition that "excites" (tells it to start charging), and one wire to the main distribution panel for voltage detection so it knows what the output is. The entire car is rewired so none of the factory harness schematics apply.

Not sure where I got that one. I still have the set of PROTO yellow handled screwdrivers that I think are from the 70's or maybe 80's. And a dozen wooden handled ones that were my grandfathers.