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Hi - your 4 wire lights will work fine, we have seen any strip that cannot be dimmed / driven by the ATX system. That said, there is the physics of current and voltage to consider. The DR2 supplies 660 mA to either the warm or cool outputs, or a mixture of both - with a total of 660 mA to assure constant brightness as you change color temperature. If your strips are 12v, then the max wattage is is only 8 watts, 24v is then 16 watts, and 48v volts is actually limited to about 28 watts for other reasons. If your 4 wire strips are 12 or 24v, kindly cut them in 1/4 or 1/2, and wire these smaller sections in series, in order to reach higher total wattages. We stock the ideal 4 wire strips that were designed for the ATX LED system.

@@atxled7490 thank you for a thorough response.

I found the process in one of your docs . )

atxled.com/pdf/ATX%20LED%20Hub.pdf

Hi Ron, future and present - we have 150+ projects large and small nationwide, completed, occupied and running - it just works.

The smart hub serves a local web page that is accessed by any laptop or smartphone browser. Connection to the "cloud" is not required, all data is stored locally, and the cloud backup service can be disabled. It does access services in the cloud to determine the local sunrise and sunset and time zone for scheduling. If schedules are not used, this will also be disabled. While Alexa can be enabled, it is not required.

grouping ( we call it tandem mode or virtual 3-way ) occurs over the DALI bus. Each switch in the set ( your example is 3 ) is set to transmit a DALI group command for dimming level or color. Then, all 3 switches are members of the group, so they will receive the info at the same time. If a switch initiates the dimming - we disable fade so all lights track very well. If the Hub initiates a level change - all will fade at the same rate. Switch initiated dimming requires no Hub - the hub can be replaced by a simple resistor and the multi switch virtual 3-way will operate normally. The Hub ( or DALI Master ) sets the groups. The DALI bus is a simple 2 wire bus that operates at 1200 baud and is very robust.

@@atxled7490 thank you. I am getting all my lighting plan in order and will be reaching out in the next week .)

Hi - this is a common situation in larger rooms - if there are, say, 12 lights, then the room is probably over 450 sq ft, and in most cases we have seen, has multiple entrances. We place a AL-WS-DR2 at each entrance ( not all in a row). Then, the hub connects them into a DALI group - so all 3 operate in unison, with dimming for all 12, and CCT control for all 12, in sync. It is like a 3-way ( 4-way) setup. We have customers with up to 6 installed this way, in a building with 6 outside doors and 48 outdoor lights - each DR2 can be individually addressed or operate in unison with the others. There is no need for all these to share the same home run either. Another example of 3-Way is a hallway with 4 doors, one AL-WS-DR2, 4 lights and 3 AL-WS-M - a total of 4 switches ( one per door) and only one need be 'smart', the others are simple contacts. This is covered in our FAQ. If the room is large and has just one door, then 2 of the switches can be hidden in a closet - all will operate together.

Have a look here - this is an example with a strip light: czcams.com/users/shorts6vi1RCfkSyw

Yes, we have many installations in Canada.

Hi Jesse, our first installation was 2017, that house has been sold a few times since, no service calls!

Thank you 😁

Thank you very much

a) Tungsten bulbs fail open, LEDs are completely different. Inside our fixture is a LED array of 3 x 11 - and nothing else - no single electronic part to fail. So, unlike a christmas tree string, these fixtures would require 11 LED chips to fail open before the string is dark, if they fail shorted - the string remains on. After 5 years, we have no installed fixture failures. b) the wire is 18/2 - 3.5 lbs / 250 ft. 14/2 Romex is 15 lbs/ 250 ft . 18/2 is 1/4 the price of Romex c) two wires, tunable white and nothing smart or expensive in the fixture is revolutionary. Perfect 3000:1 dimming ratio, no flicker and no PWM artifacts, and the heat of the fixture does not cook the driver since it is at the wall switch 15 ft away nice and cool ( and dry for outdoor projects ). d) Romex is 3 wires - 9 junctions per can in 3 wire nuts. Our fixed color fixtures have only one dual conductor strip/poke connector - much faster

@@atxled7490 But again, why? You can do the same thing using low voltage and running them in parallel if the voltages are correct. I understand your points about trying to save a few pennies on cable and wire nut costs, and moving the drivers from the fixtures to the dimmer--which has some merit. But series wiring is just a bad idea for permanent installation.

@@audiobrad99 Here are the documented results. A UV LED chip diode Vf ( typically 3v ) is a function of temperature, and the Vf falls into a bell curve of distribution. Thus, no two diodes start with the same Vf, and if not thermally matched and wired in parallel, the one with the lower Vf gets more current, creating a negative voltage thermal runaway. Multiple 12v bulbs ( say 4 leds of 3v each in series ) wired in parallel have been tested over time, to easily reach 40% disparity, as the bulbs reach different temperatures. On top of that, different Vf results in inconsistent dimming at low levels. Also, since wire resistance is non-zero, bulbs further away have lower initial voltage, which gets worse as upstream LEDs heat and lower their Vf, resulting in being starved of delivered energy. The resulting lumen output is all over the place. Strip lights at 12v handle this by using 3 LED chips ( 9v) and a resistor to balance the current. This then consumes 25% of the energy - wasted. Take apart any dead LED and study the failure cause, its the driver, usually the capacitor, that has failed, the LEDs are fine, not open circuit. So, why waste energy, and copper, by applying the tungsten failure mechanism to LED technology?? Binning the LED die, and removing the driver, results in proven highly reliable and highly efficient devices that save money. and offer perfect dimming, since each fixture receives the same current, and lumen output is a function of current, the voltage being a side effect of temperature and manufacturing tolerances.

​ @ATX LED I'm an engineer, so I understand all that. But you basically just pointed to the advantage of putting the driver at each fixture (reminds me of the battle Tesla and Edison over the merits of using AC vs DC for distributed power). No fixture is "starved" when wired on a 120V circuit--each fixture is unaffected by the others. I appreciate your knowledge of LED lighting technology, but as I am currently wiring my new house--including some 40+ recessed LED fixtures, I just can't see using this system in our home. Plus, every recessed light circuit has from 1 to 14 "cans", AND some circuits feed other types of lighting--including <gasp> incandescent in a few places. I have already chosen certain types of dimmers (some smart) to accomodate the unique needs of each room. I'm sure you have ways of accommodating a wide range of applications, but based on what I see--and the wide range of reliable, low cost 120V fixtures available, I think it's going to be an uphill climb in the building and remodeling industry. While I do see a future for low voltage wiring, it would need to be plug-n-play such that no electrician (or homeowner) has to figure out complex series and parallel grouping. Plus, consumers and designers appreciate all the options available from companies like Lutron, Leviton, and others. I went to your website and get what you're trying to do, but personally, I don't want to be an early adopter on installed technology that can't be easily replaced.

@@audiobrad99 Our customers tell us they said the same thing about plumbing with Pex vs Copper. It requires training, but once trained, nobody goes back. For you, building one house, once you select an AC bulb to communicate with an AC dimmer without flicker, and you don't mind that dimming below 10% doesn't work, and you don't have interest in tunable white that works without configuration, ( see our tunable white video czcams.com/users/shorts6vi1RCfkSyw ), then the 130 year old wiring method ( introduced at the Chicago worlds fair in 1893) is good enough. Those electrician customers who don't watch all the videos stumble and curse on house #1, and by the 3rd house they are wiring faster than Romex, so training is required, but every 3 years NEC changes the regulations, so training is ALWAYs an ongoing requirement, hence the CEU system. Here in Austin, Romex is locked up at home depot because of the extreme cost, and our customers save more than pennies on this system in the multi unit projects they build.

Glad you think so!

एक और ।।।।

Glad it was helpful!

Yes - we will upload our video showing a DR2 with color tuning from the slider. It can also be controlled by App or by time of day from the optional central hub, and the hub can communicate with google and Alexa if you want.