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Coucouple things,not being rude at all so hopefully you dont take it like that, thats not a pitot tube,its a static pressure tip. Only measures static only. A pitot measures both static and total pressure at same time and you use a calculation to determine velocity from those two readings. Also total static pressure is measuring the entire system at once,the inlet to the blower and the outlet of the blower is total static. Total external static,which is the rating on the unit tags like you showed, is the total static of everything external to what was included by the manufacturer in the unit. Like an evap and a media filter would be external to a furnace because it didnt come packaged and tested with it, then you would actually be testing total static,but on an ahu that comes with an evap,maybe a hw coil and filter, tesp would be measured up/downstream of the coils respectively and upstream of the filter in those cases, but still need to test pressure drops across filters and coils to be sure theyre within manufacturers specs otherwise your tesp readings are useless if theyre not. 😉

8:43 As far as replacing the capacitor when replacing the motor......it might be a good idea to replace the motor if you have to replace the capacitor.....because if the motor is sitting their with power on but not spinning, making that whining sound....chances are the windings got overheated before the thermal protection opened the circuit. I just replaced the capacitor and the motor started once......but it stalled during the next cycle.

On another video a guy's blower wheel had been vibrating and it was all broken loose from the back hub. So it's a good idea to inspect it at that back hub where all the vanes are welded to it.

Have you ever seen high resistance on windings that were just over by a couple ohms? But when you add them up they are correct accross start and run?

The more filter surface area you have the lower the pressure drop will be as you have more volume or space that the air can flow through. An improvement they can make in this demonstration is testing all filters at sizes used by actually HVAC units. I imagine the results would be similar, but the pressures would be lower.

Solid video bud, thanks!😊

Wow. Super easy. Glad I found this video. I am sure it wouldn't be a problem, but I'm going to use a flexible grill lighter just to make sure the top of the match does fall off in the exchanger.

I hate that we need to use a cell phone. Geeze, my phone cost me over $1200. It isn't an HVAC tool. Put the connectivity and the app on the dang manifold or sell the kit with a tablet made for service no for my wife in the kitchen.

On a real system what needs to be open to braze with nitrogen?

Thank you for sharing, brother

it's really help full .Thank you very much .

Most clamp on meters on inrush/surge current mode require 0.3 to 0.4 seconds duration for time averaging of current to make an accurate startup surge current measurement. A hardstart kit may reduce startup time to less than 0.3 seconds causing meter to report an erroneously low startup surge current number. This is the reason many techs incorrectly believe hardstart kits reduces compressor startup surge current. Hardstart capacitor decreases startup time. It does not reduce peak surge current, only shortens its duration. Hardstart capacitor gets the start winding to run winding current closer to 90 degree AC phase shift which improves startup torque of single phase AC induction motor. The amount of additional start winding current is very small, it is the AC phase improvement due to larger capacitor value that improves the startup torque, reducing the spin up time of motor. LRA is set by motor design and does not change unless voltage on motor changes. What changes is the length of time the motor takes to spin up to operating speed. As a compressor approaches 0.7 to 1 second of time to spin up due to whatever issue inside compressor (copper plating on bearings, liquid flood back in off mode. etc.) the internal thermal cutout breaker inside compressor will likely trip due to LRA current for the long period of time. Bad wiring, connections, bad contactor, can also cause additional voltage drop during high startup surge current, therefore longer spin-up time, causing compressor internal breaker to trip after 0.7 to 1 seconds.

How can you have a product that does not work? I was advised to call your corporate office in order to help me and the technician that came to my house to reinstall my thermostat and fix whatever issued that is going on with it, on hold for 30 minutes plus no one picked up. What kind of business is this?

worse Product , cannot buys accessories ,cushion start deteriorating , you cannot buy MERV 8 filtter annywhere . dont buy this product

Every time I move I pick this furnace. Simple design. Powerful energy saving motor blower. Heats up my 4000 sqft home in record time. I hate the variable speed too complicated and blower motor usually dies out after 10 years

271 amps !!!

It’s actually an open run winding. If you measure 0.L across any two points you are testing the winding that is not on your meter leads. Correct??

It’s actually an open run winding. If you measure 0.L across any two points you are testing the winding that is not on your meter leads. Correct??

You’re a real one for this! Best explanation I’ve heard

Good topic understanding bad txv

Thank you! Very nice explanation&demonstration!

What if the nut holding the squirrel cage to the shaft is stuck tight and won't come off?

What size is this rose bud tip the one I ordered is too big I ordered a MFA-1 and I need that size what’s the size of it? Please and thanks

I'm getting this tomorrow. I had 8 service visits from 3 different companies on my current furnace and am giving up. I hope this (+the gas backup) don't suck

I'm confused! As the inrush current goes down, that's a problem? I would think as long as the inrush current is less than LRA that would be a good thing. Less current, less heat. No?

Yea max is similar but not inrush. Inrush is a spike, max is over a duration

You got us covered ?? With the "No braze" warranty ?? 12 years parts... and now you drop Midea as a supplier and go with Samsung... how are you planing to fill the condenser replacement if you don't get unit anymore ? Plus the change of refrigerant ?? You will provide free of charge both indoor and outdoor unit? 3h repair on a condenser will become a system replacement at the customer's expense ?? Imagine a 3 zones system, 1 evap can't be repair, you will ship a new Samsung system?? All 4 parts and customer will need to pay the replace everything ?? 12k zone use 1/4-1/2 My guess is Samsung use 1/4-3/8.... we will need to replace piping too ?? Who's gonna pay for all that ?? How this will hold up to a customer... Sir we can't provide a replacement evap coil but Lennox will provide a new system and we will charge you 2 or 3 tech to replace the whole system, loosing a full day of income to redo and installation, not a new sell ( so we will end up charging the lost of profit for the day).... I see this going strait to small court claim for the next 10-12 years

Avoid Lennox evaporator coils. They fail prematurely. Cost me $thousands.

Does the set screw have to go onto any particular place on the shaft? I noticed the shaft have groves in it on the flat part. Does the set screw need to line up with these groves on the flat side of the shaft? I noticed the set screw fits in the groves so that’s what makes me think that’s where it goes on the shaft.

Why don't they make quick disconnect fittings for HVAC lines? It would be so easy.

You're missing the point of the question. When disconnecting, you are not only releasing pressure from the hose, most of the release is coming from the AC unit. And the higher the pressure the faster it comes out. I had a release today that I wasn't expecting because the high side pressure was close to 600 PSI. It was still 525 PSI after about a 3-4 second release that went mostly on my hand. I had some minor burns and I put on gloves right after that. I assume it was overcharged at some point because normal high side is 450 PSI. Other than screwing the fitting off quickly, is there any way to prevent such losses disconnecting?

Has anybody removed a fan-blower from a counter flow furnace?

Good job homey

I had a older thermostat and no wifi. Service tech shorted all my boards so they installed this crap. Since then no one can figure out why in AZ i have 50% humidity in my house during summers. The unit will dehumidify sometimes and sometimes not. The thing is complicated and no lennox peo dealers can seem to figure it out

Why doesn’t Lennox stop worrying about selling their product and concern themselves with producing a quality produxt

They went from 96 to 97 per cent

Great video helpful

Damn I don’t think I have the coordination to do that

Thank you sir

wout it work if i wanted to use it on the 3/8 that's attach to the copper line that goes from the inside unit and goes all the way outside the house? That hose is only 3/8 and is like plastic or vinyl and it attached to a skinnier copper line. Would the tip of that gun work there?

You are not measuring an inrush current .

Firstly, for beginners like me, I always take a picture of the board/wires to ensure they're put back properly. Second, never yank off the wires; hold the board while pulling them off gently. And third, I used a coat hanger to hold the board up and away to remove the blower, much easier! ✌️😎

The SS2 float switch is not shutting off the HVAC when the line is full of water. I assume the switch is bad. OK to replace the switch by cutting the small black wires going to the air handler, and connecting the new switch to those existing black wires using acorns?

Turn the oxygen off 1st. If you've ever read the directions from Uniweld, it specifies turning oxygen off 1st

Thank You, Sir ! A clear, concise, easy to understand video. Job well done !

This is such a biased video from Lennox. So they’re measure pressure drop , aka, the resistance of the filter. A few things others have pointed out along with my observations. The study tests filters that aren’t consistent in thickness and number of pleats. Generally, the more filter media material, the lower the pressure drop. The video starts with, these filters have not been altered in any way, yet they’re cut and glued to make a smaller segment. I’m seeing some obvious extra cardboard material on the non Lennox filters 😂. We came here for a scientific tests and I was hoping they wouldn’t be so biased but that’s never the case with these big corps.

What type of tube is that?

This video is misleading, I design hvac systems with MERV 20 at PD of 0.24"wc and MERV 13 @ 0.12" wc PD. and I don't use Lennox products.

Awesome, informative video!