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Traditional Black Powder Workshop
United States
Registrace 1. 12. 2012
This channel is about all things traditional black powder muzzleloading rifles, smoothbores, pistols, cap & ball and accoutrements. Building, loading, maintenance and general education of traditional muzzleloaders and all item related to black powder shooting. It is intended for those who are new to muzzleloading and have questions.
For What It's Worth: Percussion Rifles the two most common ignition styles of your Rifle/Pistol
A video for those new to muzzleloading
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Video
For What It's Worth: What Size of Round Ball Do I Need For My Muzzleloader
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A video for those new to muzzleloading wanting information about round balls
For What It's Worth: Flintlock Smoothbores
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For What It's Worth : Flintlock Introduction
For What It's Worth: What Projectiles to use
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For What's Worth: Video from Tradiyional Black Powder Workshop
For What It Is Worth E: 1 Safety
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A simple video created for those new to muzzleloading
Your volume is too low. Fix it.
45 plus years in the game and I can tell you that every bore is as different as women. A micrometer or even machinist standard will only tell you part of the story. Bores aren’t settled in their ways (lands generally smoothed out) until after about 200 shots and patches stop “cutting”. Then maybe you can use a .495” ball or thicker patch and see some happy groups with your 50cal.
Sorry. 500 barrel is wrong. More so .501 to .503 is the correct answer. I own 3 rifles in. 50 caliber, not 1 measures out to. 500 just the facts
A .015 patch ends up being .030 when wrapped around the ball. So that would put you at .520 total
Thank you sir. Very informative, very simple and very helpful. Back in the 1980’s, I bought my Dad a Thompson Center Hawkin. It’s a beautiful rifle and a couple weeks ago I got it out of safe and started cleaning and cleaning and cleaning on it. After it was good and clean I fired a cap through it, then I loaded 70 grains under a wad of cloth to make sure it would fire, before I seated a bullet in it. All went well and I put a patch in a jag and ran it down and back. After that, I loaded it again but this time with a .490 round ball. First shot at 25 yards was dead center left to right and 1” high. 2 more shots revealed a 1.62” 3 shot group. I figure the gun will do better than that and the shooter is the deficient part. Just my thing, but regardless of what I happen to be shooting, I limit my range to whatever distance at which I can shoot a 2” group, or less at, so for now, shooting at game, I won’t attempt a shot past 30 yards. Dad passed last spring, so next fall any animal not taken with my recurve will be taken with Dad’s Hawkin, just to commemorate him and to remember all the many days that we spent afield. Thanks again for the video. One question, if with practice my shooting improves, what do think is the maximum lethal range of a .490 round ball on a mature whitetail buck? Your recommendation on other solid lead projectiles that I can get a mold for would be appreciated as well. Regards
Do You think Someone could successfully replace the flint with a piece of fire steel cut & trimmed and faced to fit the cock ? ( the fire steel can last a very long time for its intended purpose )
I have a flint pistol, how can I find out its value
Great advice and promo video for getting started in black powder!
Great vid man, just subbed!!!
Thanks for the sub!
The drum threads all the way through the breech plug on that cva. It's a very strong drum set up and has a ton of thread engagement.
Actually this particular CVA I have altered. The only concern with the breech set up is the small entry hole from the barrel to the powder chamber. It tends to fowl up and that limits the main charge from filling the chamber making ignition unreliable. So I opened the small channel that leads into the powder chamber from the muzzle. Which now makes the task of cleaning the breech area much easier( no fowling to hinder the powder charge from getting into the powder chamber). This allows for a much faster more reliable ignition. I have done this to several CVA’s and Traditions rifles as well. The other major disadvantage to this breech system is that the breech plug is next to impossible to remove. Not that a person should need to remove one. But the positive is this breech plug drum combination is by far stronger than just the drum screwed into the barrel. A modified patent breech plug is what I prefer on my percussion rifles.
This was neat. It piqued my interest. Good video!
Thank you
I have a question. If you have a rifled barrel, like Hawken or PA long rifle, you get in a fight, can you load it like a smoothbore? Does it mess up the rifling?
Shooting shot through a rifled barrel is not good on the rifling if done over an extended period of time. But I can tell you that the shot pattern is horrible. It would be good for extremely close range only 10- 15 feet.
@@BlackPowderWorkshop1258 Thanks, I have often wondered. I know that a lot of long hunters carried rifles. The smoothbore was good for everything at close range. That said, in a battle like the one on LOTM, I can see it being hard to reload with the attack going on.
@@outdoorlife5396 the smoothbore is a very underrated gun. It can be effective to 125 yards for in it’s day was all that was necessary. Even muzzleloading rifles are only effective to 150 maybe 175 yards on average. Today people want to try to compare the maximum range and effectiveness with modern rifles. Do not get caught up in such foolishness. Is an apple the same as a banana? No but they are both fruits yes? Well Muzzleloading guns are much different than what most people think they are. Learn the limitations and realize the difference and all will be good.
@@BlackPowderWorkshop1258 Thanks, what has always made me wonder was DB had his daughter kidnapped by Indians, along with 2 other girls. I heard he send back for some regular clothes, because his Sunday clothes couldn't take the damage the woods could do. A couple of them said, he also wanted to trade his rifle for a smoothbore, because he knew there was going to be a fight. Thanks, I am seriously thinking about reenacting now that I have retired.
@@outdoorlife5396 yes I have heard that story as well. Boone would have used his smoothbore as it would be a faster reload. The smoothbore could be loaded with powder then an undersized ball or two or three and fired must faster than a rifled gun with a single ball. Plus he figured that the fight would be up close and very personal. Quite a bit of fighting on the frontier was close quarters. Knife and Hawk plus war clubs were well used in the early 18th to early 19th century on the frontier east of the Mississippi River all along the Ohio River valley.
Looking to get two smoothbores eventually. One will absolutely be a flintlock and the other a 1842 Springfield since the bayonet I ordered for my 61 turned out to be for the 42.
Good job
👌.у нас с таким проблемы,в отличии от обычных,современных образцов. А в этих есть харизма.
Yes I agree that muzzleloader rifles are very beautiful and artistic items.
I like your powder measure. Cleaver Idea using river cane. I was thinking of making powder measures out of bone. Clean and bleach them out. Chicken leg bones would be Ideal. They are hollow. Easily obtained. Will bleach out totally white and there is a lot to work with. What do you think. If I thought of it, you can bet somebody else did too. I'm always the last to come up with anything. Good video friend.
I think you are onto a good idea with the bone idea. I have used antler tines as well. Even wood carved into an effigy of an animal would work as well. The possibilities are only limited by your imagination.
Good video...but does anyone else think that the volume is too low?
I will work on the volume issue. Thank you for your input.
Great video thank you.
Your welcome. Thank you for commenting.
A patch of 10 thousandths of an inch plus a .49 round ball = 0.51 in the bore. Measurement between the lands may be 0.50, but the groove depth may vary, this is where the patch helps take up the difference. Too thin a patch may tear.
That is true. I have an older .45 barrel that is a much smaller bore than stamped on the barrel. It actually measured at .439 and .449 so the .433 ball and .015 works good for my rifle. Always measure the bore to make sure of the actual size if the breech plug can be easily removed slug the barrel and measure the slug it is the most accurate way of knowing for sure.
Well.. just shoot it.
Here in PA it's mainly flintlocks. Don't know for sure but we might be the only State (Commonwealth) that has a flintlock only deer season. Guess the strange thing is most of us has never shot a percussion muzzleloader.
Here in Illinois most people don’t hunt or even own a smoothbore flintlock. They just do not know what fun they are missing.
Been shooting Black Powder since the 80's and just in the last 2 years got myself a smoothie in .60 Flint this has been so much fun, even though smoothie's don't usually have a rear sight as they are shot much like a shotgun. Beings a whole new meaning to marksmanship.
The barrel that I used on that build was gifted to me by my son in law who in turn was given to him. Originally it was a percussion but the breech area was in bad shape so the 40”barrel got cut down to 38” and I re breeched it and made a flintlock out of it. The front and back sights were on it. I am assuming to shoot round ball. Which it shoots .522 round balls no patch just paper wadding just fine out to 75 yards. This is a straight octagon barrel 1” across the flats. Holds a decent pattern with shot at 30 yards as well.
I have seen rear sights added to the back smoothbores. They are attached with the tang screw. I have not done so. My smoothbore that I built I cut a dove tail into the barrel and put a rear sight on. The secret to very accurate round ball is to get the ball very close to the bore size and use a thin patch when loading. The patch does not do anything more than creating a gas seal and keeping the ball in place so you do not need an over wad. I still out an over powder wad of felt/wool though. Improves accuracy by quite a bit up too 75 to 100 yards.
A few minutes ago I left a comment asking about what charge I should use for a 14 gauge fowler in order to shoot round ball. The bore of the gun is .69 inches. Now after watching this video I have to ask you another question. My percussion lock has a nipple similar to the second one you showed (no clean-out screw). Would you have any idea as to the approximate date that they used this method? Thanks again for the very informative video.
As for shooting a round ball with your .69 Fowler I would use between 75 to 90 grains of 2F. You will need to use a wad over powder ball then a wad over the ball just to keep it in place. You are talking smoothbore correct? Now as for your second question the patent breeches were developed in the early 1800’s but became very popular on the newer percussion rifles in the late 1820’s. The drum on percussion rifles were made to convert the flintlock rifles since the hole was drilled for the vent. They just drilled and tapped the threads to allow the drum to be installed onto the barrel
Nice video. I will mention that the small clean out on a drum or on the modern patent breech is actually stronger than the brim it’s screwed into. The quality of steels, the threads used on both drum and plug and maintenance all effect this question. But generally on bore obstruction events the barrel will spilt at the breech, then the drum will blow out, and finally the clean out screw will blow out. That little clean out screw is your friend. It keeps you from working the drum on and off the gun which wears the threads. If/when the clean out screw threads begins to wear they can be refreshed by drilling out and re-tapping to the next size. Once you do that once or twice it’s time to consider a new drum. Picky little point. But that’s the engineering of the issue. Fox out
Several years ago I purchased a 14 gauge fowler I was told that it was a 14 gauge fowler. My guess is that it was made in the mid 1800's as it is a percussion. I have used it to hunt turkeys. It has a bore diameter of .69 inches. If I wanted to shoot round ball what diameter of round ball would work best? I have 14 gauge over the powder wads and would use whatever kind of over the ball material available. The next question is what volume of 2f black powder should I use? I just stumble across your site and clicked on the subscribe button. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
I would use a ball slightly smaller than the bore. .670 to .680. You could even use a linen patch just to keep the round ball in placed lightly lubed of course.
Olive oil plus bees wax equals bore butter. Just add wintergreen essential oil for scent. I used cedar oil but it has a really weak smell. Works great though. Much cheaper than buying it and you can vary the amount of bees wax for cold and warm weather.
Thanks for sharing!
Yes as long as the bore butter has petroleum in the product. Some brands do others do not.
You made yourself a nice smooth rifle. Bore like a Fowler, sights like a rifle. Nice combo.
Thank You
Unfortunately, real flint is impossible to find in my area. I have to use chert instead of flint when I practice lighting fires with flint/steel. Have you tried chert or other rocks in a flintlock?
Yes I have used chert it may not keep an edge as long but it can work
Like the old mountain man said, “long as ye got rocks, ye got far”. I picked up a rock one time , knocked it into rough shape, and installed it in my flinter. It worked, but only for a couple of shots. Bottom line,,it worked.
@@murphy4yt yup. As soon as the river goes down I will be flint hunting.
You said it all in a nutshell!!! Thanks.
Thank you
Thanks for the very informative, accurate, and enjoyable presentation! You said it ALL in a nutshell
My pleasure!
Great content! Love your videos. I just subscribed….. keep ‘em coming
Thank you
Between using fabric and paper, what are the fire risks downrange? I know a moose milk soaked patch is nearly zero
I prefer not to use a soaked patch. When I am on the range I am not concerned about a fire risk because we have a well taken care grass shooting lanes and gravel for 10 yards in front of the shooters. Hunting can be a concern but after a shot I usually find my patches. The paper wadding I just have to be more attentive. Most will not go more than 10 to 15 feet. I just try to locate and if still burning extinguish it.
Back in 1960's ( Back when Turner Kirkland was running the Show) Dixie Gun Works Sold The " Plinker Flint of Percussion " Kit's You got a Smooth Bore Barrel, Lock , Trigger guard & Buttplate, A stock Blank , And other small parts- These kits were Very Reasonable, I think around $ 50.00 + - , Turner Tryed to " Promote " The Sport, And make it Affordable for Average Folks - Now? It's MONEY , MONEY , MONEY - Everything Costs Too much, And there's a lot of Rip-Off's Out There ---
Yes today many kits are very expensive and a custom made one is really out of sight.
You sir know. A rarity for sure.
Thanks
Good video! The novice shooters can learn a lot from this.
Thank you
I have watched you in the past and now I am subscribed. Any man that enjoys the black powder tradition is a friend of mine. I'm building a North West Trade fouling flintlock from Sitting Fox. There have been challenges to the build as this is my first time. My hope is that younger people get into the art so it does not vanish in time. And yes, I consider it an art today because of what is necessary to shoot one accurately. I will be watching from now onward. Best regards. . . .
There are always challenges to any build. I do believe that is why I enjoy it so much. Years ago when I first started building a friend of mine said “ you do know you will make mistakes on your builds… it happens…. just learn from them and each build will get better.”Oh by the way even those who have been building for awhile still make mistakes. The difference is they know how to fix or hide their mistakes the person new to building does not…. Yet that’s where experience comes in.
I’m a big fan of smoothbores. They’re extremely versatile and much more accurate than people give them credit for.
That is very true. I love mine.
The Fowler, like the modern shotgun, is literally capable of taking game from quail to moose as well as defending yourself. Except for a Civil War Era reproduction Zouave and Remington revolvers all I shoot are flintlocks.
Thank you for your reply
What brand of caliber did Daniel Boone use? LOL
From what I read his famous Kentucky rifle Ol’ Tick Licker was a .44 caliber flintlock that was 5 foot in length and weighed nearly 11.5 pounds or there abouts.
What "brand of caliber" do you use? I didn't know calibers came by brand. LOL
I jumped straight into flintlocks for hunting here in Wisconsin. The state issues me a gun buck tag with my hunting license, so I figured I would give the deer a sporting chance much like with bowhunting. Thank you for doing this video. I hope your channel thrives.
Thank you
Thank a got dam cigarette you didn't say pipe bomb!!! What a wonderful departure of the internet norm.
👍
Subscribed. Lets see what you got.
Hello! Just came across your channel... and subscribed. Safety can never be over addressed!
Safety is priority #1 here at Traditional Black Powder Workshop