Video

Hi they usually came with the handbooks but are most often long since lost. The main dealers used to be the place to get them for free (with proof of i.d. and opwnership) but as the cars that used the systems have aged even most of the dealers got rid of the codes too! At one point the codes were available on ebay for £2, but the dealers seemed to get anyone selling them shut down (which was fair enough!). Now you have to find a dealer or autoelectrician that can still obtain codes from a trade only company that can supply them. A company called Hickleys are the only ones I know of now that can supply them to the trade, although not being in the trade, I have no idea of the costs involved.

In the handbooks, or at the dealers / auto electricians.

in your handbooks, or at the dealers

As the engine starts nice both hot and cold then i would not worry about the choke. In the summer time it will be open pretty much all the time anyway except on really cold mornings. In the past, before problems got too serious for me, I would simply have adjusted only the fast idle screw (thinking this was just The Idle screw). I would have just turned that in a half turn or turn, (clockwise from front of car) (making a note of this) and just adjusted a couple more times if needed to see if it went any better, which always seemed to work for me. Better that that is to use both idles as I have shown, although cars without a rev counter I understand makes this difficult. The other thing to try is to turn the dizzy cap on top of the distributor, as rotating the dizzy cap advances or retards the timing and can improve the idle. This is not always easy to do as the set screw that needs to be losened to allow the top part to rotate often becomes stuck over time! Ideally altering the timing at the dizzy cap should be done in conjuction with a timing gun pointed at the timing belt and markers, but can be done without just by ear or along with the rev counter. Adjusting at the dizzy cap, may when bringing down the idle, fix the running problems, if not the carb may still need adjusting afterwards. Just mark/count/write down any screw turns you make so that you can always revert back to where you started until you can fin the improvement that works for you. Best of luck.

Yes I would think so, I can't think of any reason why not, other than less chance of fan coming on whilst working on it.

@@ifitsgotwheels thanks for the answer

The codes were usually located on a credit card sized security card in with the handbooks. Without it, unfortunately the codes can only be got from main dealers or an auto locksmith now. Unless any owners club has their own lists, by obtaining them back in the day.

Hi, if the engine idle seems high then it probably is. For many years whilst we had this car and knowing zero about carbs for most of that time, the one adjustment I did make was to the fast idle screw (operated by the 3/4 point unit's peg. see; czcams.com/video/rt7l_B1J54U/video.htmlsi=A_wxnu2pQqhEON68). Obviously the rev counter on this vehicle made things easier, but I think we also did this on our previous 1.6 with no rev counter too. (most of that car's driving problems turned out to be engine mount related in the end, as the engine should be pretty solid in position and not shake freely when you try to shake it). For a while just adjusting the fast idle screw seemed to give us a better result. I do not think choke settings will be any/major cause as they are not needed once the car is warm. It was only in the last year we had the car when things were getting too bad that I had to look at the carb and see what else I could find out and fix (making the vids at the time), I used a seal repair kit, replaced vac pipes and mount, and boiled waxstat as you have seen, to get some improvements, but finding out and knowing more about the choke and screw settings did make a difference, between the car just running and the car running great. I always saw the fast idle screw as a simple way to make an adjustment, thinking this was the correct thing to turn (just thinking this was the slow idle setting screw, little did I know, but it seemed to work), always marking and recording my turns, but found in summer and winter times I was having to alter it. It turns out the (slow) idle screw is on the back of the carb (see; czcams.com/video/mwEU4QXX5_I/video.htmlsi=tkqT_ZKZDjkz4HoQ) and even without a rev counter I think this is the setting I would try and adjust first to cure a fast idle now. Obviously with the difficult location the bolt head will be nigh on hard to mark so make sure count and turns you make and write them down so you can revert back if things do not improve. but I think if you just unscrew the bolt a little bit you may get the car running as you need. The one other place that I can think of that can be having effect, is the car's distributor. Under the distributor (dizzy) cap there will usually be a screw, or small nut/bolt, or two, that can be undone to allow the top of the distributor and rotor arm /dizzy cap part to rotate. This is best set using a timing gun connected to a spark plug lead and using a mark on the timing belt, but without a timing gun could also be set by ear alone. Again before messing with settings put a mark top and bottom on rotating bit of distributor, just so you know where you started, so you can line it back up in the same place again if needed, especially if you do not have a timing gun! Also as the distributors are seldomly ever moved the screws or bolts may not let you undo them in the first place, so it can be worth marking the dizzy and trying to undo them before spending time and money buying or borrowing a timing gun if you don't have one. Anyway don't be too afraid of trying to make any adjustments, I always was!

Great to hear! So happy to help

I don't know the answer to that one as I never had to replace any. Sorry.

If your car starts it's the right code! If you haven't got any code, and you no longer have the card or handbooks with a code, then you need the car dealers or an auto locksmith to obtain them for you

Ok ill check in the papers

Hi this would most likely be caused by a faulty speed sensor. Normally you would look at the gear box on a vehicle to find the speed sensor, but it seems these vehicles (where a speed sensor goes may just be blanked off or have nothing and it) the speedo may just run off the front abs sensor(s) instead (nsf?). I am not sure how you can check the abs out though. Obviously if the abs light stays on then the two things could be linked. but otherwise I don't know how you can check what's working, so it may just be worth giving the reluctor ring and abs sensor gap a clean up when taking a look.

Hi, anytime these rev to 3000, then it usually points to the waxstat. You have done the right thing by soaking it in hot water first as that option is free and will often cure the problem (even if only temporary). When that doesn't solve things, before buying another expensive waxstat, always make sure you check the rubber stuff out first as all rubber perishes with time. The tubes are cheap and easy to replace as you can get rubber tubes for just a few quid off the internet (sorry I don't remember the inner diameter sizes, I just bought some stuff usually sold by the metre sold on ebay), that replacing them is a no brainer whether the ones you have are seem good or not. You must check the rubber mount the carb sits on as these often split and will cause a car to over rev. Even without removing the carb, just see if the carb rocks about easily, if it does the mount is probably old and splitting, as the carb should be sat solid on the engine when on a good mount. If it rocks loosely then on closer inspection you may even see any split without even removing the carb! After that although there is much more to a carb that I can understand (I only ever messed with one or two carbs (as I didn't want to mess with something I didn't undersand, so the car's drove like a bag of spanners until things got so bad and I went ahead and went for it (making this vid in the process too at the time))). It's quite possible the Waxstat in your car has passed it's useful life now. I was able to boil the Waxstat in this car a few times, but eventually, although the pin seemed ok, I think it lost it's strength, maybe the wax was no longer melting at the right time or something once the car was warm. I can't remember much about it all now, only remembering when I watch these vids back myself! Eventually the car looked and drove brill, had a few little jobs more to do, and was going to start going to shows in it but someone drove into & it got wrote off. Right now we have a 2012 Polo, that flashes it's hazard lights for 5 minutes every time you lock it! I think it is the batteries inside the alarm siren but with -7 weather forecast in the morning, and cold or wet pretty much every other day (as it's January) and with the location of the siren as yet unknown (I think it's under wipers, or above wheel arch in front wing) it can wait...

Hey man thanks for the quick response. I had actually thought about it being the rubber carb mount, but the carb seems to be on there pretty solid. I will buy and replace the mount just to be sure. I have already replaced most of the vac lines as some of them were in bad condition. I really hope i can get the carb working properly again as they really are nice when they work as they should. I cant wait to have my 87 jetta coupe running great again, its such a fun and nice car to drive. Thanks for the help, advice and fast response.

​@@Chris-qk9zbHello, I would like to ask if replacing the vac lines and the rubber mount helped? Thanks for answering:)

@@vyteq17 yes it did what i found out was some vac lines on the back of the carb were super rotten. so i replaced them and it was ok ish again. then i completly reset the carb to original settings and just redid all of it.

Don't tell me you lost it!!!!!!!!!!!!! .......then from the dealership, or, an auto locksmith.

@@ifitsgotwheels I'm 8n Africa it's a car from Germany I'm sure the china man imported stolen . No Vin o LY under passenger seat

Usually they were on a credit card sized card in with the handbooks. Failing that, you can usually only get them from a car dealership or auto electrician these days.

Hi the source of all the info and diagrams I used can be found here www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 I hope the images are still there, as I can not see any images or vids on my device at the moment, so not sure what goes where...

@@ifitsgotwheels It looks like a great website, but on my PC i cant see the pictures? it teels me they are currently unadvaleble. is it possible for you to see the pictures?

It should close itself when the temperature cools back down!

In the handbooks, or from the dealers, or an auto locksmith.

No sorry I don't. perhaps earlier 800's do that? I would not know. Maybe it's just a glitch!? Anyone else know? or have(/had) the same problem too? please feel free to reply, thanks.

@@ifitsgotwheels mine is from 1993 it closes all windows with one press on the fob, i have first to make them automatic you know thee beeping sound fix, afte rthat they all close when locking the car, also the wipers dont go to rest position when i take the ignition off they come to a halt on the windscreen

Hi, you should be able to tell simply by switching on the ignition and pressing the left button 3 times and the days and mileage to the next scheduled service should be displayed, depending on the miles you do you do not have to stick to schedule, the Polo we have now only does low miles so we only bother with servicing it every two years, reseting it to zero anyway on the inbetween one. Have fun! Hope it works for you.

Use '10'

Hi, they came with the cars when new, usually on a card within the handbook wallet, but would often get lost over the years and owners since.There is no default code, if there was the immobilisers would be pretty useless. (I know phones and TV sets etc can be reset to defaults, their manufacturers are stupid, as it does little to prevent their theft!). The codes used to be on lists from the manufacturers, which you now need a dealer or auto-electrician to obtain as they are only supplied to the trade only, a few years back you could find a lost code for a couple of quid on ebay, but all that was stopped.

@@ifitsgotwheels aww shucks. Guess I'll have to shell out a couple more bucks to get this fixed. Thanks!

They usually came on a card with the handbooks.

Normally on a card in with the handbooks, which are usually long lost! So only from the dealers and autolocksmiths these days, sorry!

Hi sorry to hear about your troubles, this method did work on some Land Rovers (probably model years up until around 1998-2001 although I can't be sure of the cut off dates or models exactly!) If it is applicable to your vehicle then instead of opening and closing the drivers door at the start of the sequence like shown, you need to turn the key to the lock position and hold it there for a minimum 5 seconds so the car knows you are about to try entering the code. The rest should be the same, thanks. but with no EKA, the method is of no use anyway, so you may need to contact an auto electrician/locksmiths or Land Rover dealer for an EKA. Alternatively your vehicle may have some sort of chip/transponder in the key /and iginition. Again for chipped keys you will need the dealer or auto electrician to sort them out in most cases, sorry I can not be of anymore help, having never owned one myself.

Hi, I don't know anything about them but the old Rover technician's video here; video czcams.com/video/DwCQPyUKf3s/video.html may help! (If your car is similar). It seems the self diagnosis fault code can be read by looking at the LEDs on the ECU, and the video also shows a clear enough shot of the fault codes page in the manual to decipher them. I remember my Dad's and brother's first Rovers having PGM-FI, but don't think either ever had any problems with them, so never learnt from any experiences. They both had central locking problems on a regular basis though! I hope the link can help

@@ifitsgotwheels ok no problem thank you very much for your help

I only found out by accident on the last day of staying in the room! Luckily nothing lost!

@@ifitsgotwheels what

I don't know that one, unless it's the parking lights just lit up on one side of the car only, otherwise it sounds like a fault, and faults can be anything!!