Video

Thanks Bud. Cheers!

let me start by saying that this floor has been installed for over 6 years under heavy traffic, and it.is holding up great. I can tell you that I live in South Carolina where the humidity is very high... I have good run off drainage, and my shop cement floor was poured about 10 years before I put this down. I didn't have any problems with moisture. About the best thing I could tell you is that if your floor is wet, or if you have any concerns, I would wait until it's good and dry, or try to address it some how. This epoxy is thought and expensive, and I wouldn't not want to have to figure out a way to remove it or have to reapply. It looks like the industry standard for testing for moisture can be found in ASTM-D-4263. Basically tape a 16"x16" clear plastic bag to the floor and then peel it off after 24 hours and look for any signs of moisture or condensation. If that fails they also have calcium carbonate test kits you can buy. Cheers, and good luck with your project.

cheers

Glad you enjoyed it...

Great advise

yea, those eccentric bushings are not interference fit or press fit into the casting so they are able to rotate to provide adjustment. You should be able to carefully remove them without having to take the parallel bars out or remove the feed tables. I would spray some WD40 or degreaser around the hole in the casting to loosen them up. Use a torch to heat the casting up around the bore if necessary to gain clearance to break them loose.. You can use a spanner wrench in the holes provided in the faces of the eccentric bushing to rotate them while you use something like a screw driver to pry them out. Just be careful, and take out one out at a time.... I wouldn't beat around on it too much when you are reinstalling them because you could end up in a situation where something breaks like mine did. As you can see in the video, those table support brackets are not designed to take any impact or side load, and they are directly clamped to the parallel bars so it won't take much beating to shear off one of the corner cleats. Good luck.

@@JeremiahL maybe I should just leave it lol. It’s just cosmetic I suppose.

@@slackreviews If it aint broke.... With that said, those bushings serve a purpose that could influence the function of the machine... Follow your judgement. My put is that its pretty simple swap if you wanted to take it on.

I just used Rust-Oleum. It holds up great

@@JeremiahL Awesome. Thanks.

On behalf of the universe, Im sorry your life is miserable. You could have just went on to the next video, but you chose to stick it out and then blame me for poor decision making... Im here to tell you that Im not the problem.... I feel like you have some soul searching to do... Good luck...

What types of projects are you working on. I probably have something on my STD list that I can make a video.

I'm a professional engineer, and as a consequence I have more that 10,000hrs of CAD experience. To me the solid drafting side of Fusion 360 was pretty straight forward, mostly because a majority of the 3D modeling principles are at least partially equivalent across platforms. I will say that Fusion is quirky, and can be unstable... But it's free. As for the CAM side of it... I kind of stumble through it until I find a way to make it do what I want. I also use the CAM infrequently so, I make the same mistakes over and over from project to project. One thing that I do is make seed files for types of CAM jobs and use the set ups and tool paths from the past as a go by... This helps immensely so Im not reinventing the wheel from job to job. If you do need help on something specific, I find that a google search is the best approach. CZcams is good, but you end up watching 25min of stuff you dont need to know to get that 1 nugget of gold that need to get back on the road. Obviously, Google is a little more targeted. Once I understand the function in broad terms, I may watch a video on that specific topic to get some contextual examples... Good luck

Ive found that the material doesnt have an issue with chip out the way that wood does. Also the one the Plastic responds to heat by melting. Your best best is to use an up cut bit to eject the material out of the tool path so that it doesnt get stirred back into the cutter and cut path. Obviously dust collection will help. I use white side bits, but check out toolstoday.com, Amana, and onsrud.

@@JeremiahL I have one more kind of related question.. I carved a few signs out of PVC and they turned out great, nice detail since its incredibly flat and, as you said, no chipout.. so my question is when do you usually use to seal it? The plastic smell is pretty strong (especially when you have pocketed sections) just curious it you or anyone have found a topcoat that is effective at sealing against the smell (gases) better than others

@@lstineman It depends... To seal it, I would use a water base poly like polycrillic. I also use general finishes 450 for exterior signs. Ive never really had a major issue with the smell... I mean there is a distinct plastic smell right after you cut it, but in my experience, it hasn't been super profound. It probably fades with time. I get my PVC from home depot. It's about $100 or so for a sheet that is around 48x96... I think it's a limited availability product, and is not carried in all stores nation wide. I live in SC which is coastal. I think alot of local builders use it because white is a nautical color, and PVC holds up very well in outdoor applications with direct sun exposure. PVC isn't widely used for carving, so there is limited info available. You are just going to have to experiment around with it until you find somehting that works. Last comment is that I wouldn't use anything with alot of solvents in it. just a hunch, but acetone and other solvents may disolve the plastic.

how;d that work? I am gonna do the same thing today

great comments. Thanks

Great idea on the flipping orientation and using wing nuts. I think I may tack weld them in place, and use wing nuts like you were saying. Also, Ive been eye balling the pick up tube mod for a while. Im going to need to figure out a way to raise the box up a bit so I can fit a metering valve under neath of it. I also on getting a more ergo friendly gun with a foot controller. My buddy has a shaker that he installed on his that is handy for getting the media to work its way back into the bottom of the pan. Thanks for the idea. Much appreciated.

nope. It'll get wet and dissolve. Just pull it off. There is a lot in the vacuum that is supposed to keep water from escaping if the level gets too high. But this thing consumes water so quickly that you just notice a little Bit of water spray coming out of the exhaust. When that happens, you need to dump the bucket.

Glad you enjoyed it. I plan on doing some more tool reviews. Subscribe so you don't miss it.

pretty much.

They last about as long as the crappy film that comes kitted with the HF machine... No exaggeration. I mean obviously, its not a preferred solution, but works for the situation I was in where I needed to use the cabinet, but I was 10 days away from a amazon shipment... It works best in a pinch. It's probably not as robust as a good quality film, maybe 85% as good. But one thing I will say is that it doesn't leak sand into it like the regular film covers do when the adhesive fails... Cheers

Cool!

I would start with the Quincy website. They have parts diagrams where you can look them over and find what you need. Quincy will sell all good quality OEM parts. Some times the asking price will be outrageous, and sometimes reasonable. Once you have your part numbers identified, I would just search google directly and see who pops up. I've used (www.eindustrialsolutions.com) and (www.industrialairpower.com). Sometimes their prices will be far better, but in my experience, a lot of these machine parts companies don't directly stock parts, and will have to order them from a sub-tier vendor which can take months to get parts. They (all of them) also don't tell you if a part is in stock or not, so you buy it, and a few days later they let you know that you'll be getting it when they get it from their supplier. I've waited an eternity for parts. I also have a local compressor shop that services industrial compressors, they often times will have seals gaskets and other consumable supplies on hand for reasonable cost, and no shipping. Sometimes it's better to to find someone near you that can answer questions, and help you find what you need.

One thing I ran while working another compressor over is a damaged supply tube/pipe. Basic bent up copper pipe that connects the high pressure air output on the pump to the tank to supply a compressed air. They have so many configurations that they don't stock spares. They view it like a plumbing item that is fit on installation. They will sell you the straight pipe for $95, and expect you to either form the pipe yourself, or hire a pipe fitter to do it for you. You're better off in this case to order some pipe from metals.com ($36), and then go buy a pipe bender capable of bending the pipe diameter you need. I have a separate video about a bender I bought for around $100 from vevor after trying to bend the pipe other ways several times. It worked like a champ. I ended up spending a bunch of money on pipe trying to save money on the bender.... lol. Also, I learned that copper tube and pipe are measured differently and have different wall thickness. You'll need to have a way of accurately measuring the pipe diameter, and wall thickness to determine what you need. You may need to buy the ferrules (pipe end fittings) directly from Quincy. good luck

@@JeremiahL Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question and posting this video, it really help out.

@@michaelfrancis3261 Glad to help. I actually have a full tear down and rebuild of a different Quincy pump that I have been meaning to post. I can try to put it up over the holiday if you are interested. Subscribe and you should get notified when it hits. One more thing while Im thinking about it, the nut on the big pump pulley wheel is left hand threaded. I was about to get out the torch right before I finally figured that out. You can borrow a pulley puller from auto zone for free to get it off the taper (if you dont have one). Cheers!

@@JeremiahL Thanks a million. Also, I was able to find all the parts I needed to complete the rebuild, blessing my brother

Glad you enjoyed it

the small die self-centres

And who are you supposed to be? siskel and ebert of CZcams. I can see from looking at your channel that you have no videos at all.... It's pretty sad to see someone completely anonymously hiding behind a keyboard tearing others down . At a minimum you should make it obvious what specifically you dislike about this video... By the way, the effort required to make a video like this far exceeds any benefit that I get from CZcams, or the community. I made this video just to help someone else to resolve this problem if they end up in this situation. Its free... Enjoy it or scroll on. I hope your life gets better... Cheers!

By adding the shark bite dust? It's really light and fine media. Probably a cup and half at most, and it completely homogenizes in the compound with out a problem. I didn't have any issues with it. In fact, increasing the viscosity to some degree will help build up solids on the substrate. if it's too thin you may have problems building up film thickness. I've got 5 years of heavy industrial use on this floor. I have several machines that weigh between 2K-5K lbs that I have rolled around on the floor using iron bars. I do some welding, spilled solvents, dropped material and it's holding up fine. And most importantly, when it gets wet, it's not slippery which is what I was going for. cheers

Where are you? That’s insane, what did you get, did you buy new?

@@slackreviews grizzly sale, they are fairly generous with their holiday and anniversary sales

@@whitexeno I just bought a DJ-20 with a helix helical cutter for $1400, I feel like that’s a decent deal.

I bet you are right...

Kershaw Blur Tanto Black Pocketknife, 3.4" Sandvik 14C28N Stainless Steel Recurved Blade, Assisted Thumb-Stud Opening EDC a.co/d/9Tc9Vgq

Glad to help

This was just the tool review. I have a restoration video coming up where I rebuild my jointer. Cheers

Are you trying to math troll me...? The differential relationship is between spindle rotation speed, and how fast you feed into the material. Increase one and the other variable is effected. Thanks for the comment.

you sound very confident in your position. I recognize that it's possible that you have never used this tool for this application, or seen it used for paint removal, but my recommendation is that you do a quick search. I think you will find that not only are needle scalers used for paint removal, but they are widely prescribed specifically as the solution for leaded paint removal...

Let me help you . www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/1991-06-18. Let me know if you need more objective evidence. Thank you for the comment

@@JeremiahL I apologize for overstating my point. Instead of saying they are the wrong tool, I should have said there are better choices in tools for the task depicted. Obviously they will *work* but then again, one could do dental work with a Dewalt drill technically.

@@G5Hohn Cheers to that

Yeah, scaling that first piece of NEW metal isn't what this is for. Look at the condition of that metal now. It is all "dented" up. You don't needle scale threads on a pipe fitting either.