Video

Hi thank you for your videos that help me a lot. I am into 3d printing since few months and speaking of support I still struggle to avoid scars when removing support. I used 0.3 mm z-top distance when printing at 0.06 mm but it leaves marks sometimes difficult to remove due to the size of the mini. Although my printer nozzle sometimes knock the support down (Bambu A1 mini no possibility to calibrate manually z-axe) but less when I use smooth tray. Any tip on how to my support stronger without impairing mini? I still need to test your homemade supports. Thank you in advance for your feedback

So cool! Thanks for posting!

I want to get into 3D printing and love the idea of printing in the same room as my office. The simplicity of Bambu A1 mini. But based on this video, i feel like FDM would limit my STL mini options to about 10% of what is available 😢 on MMF. Not sure FDM is the way to go.

its totally viable, i bought P1S combo just for all the stuff u can do, i cant put resin in my apartment, it would need serious VOCs vent system, that would cost time and money and modification to my apartment, i have lot of tabletop games, and its completly fine to use 0.2 nozzle with some medium sized minis for my games :)

Kings of War is awesome! Try the Ambush boxes. They are a great value!!

Enjoying the FDM mini printing videos! Keep them coming! Just found your channel. Do you have videos on printing OPR minis in FDM?

FDM remains the work-horse printer type for large structures and parts.

I have been loving the quality of my minis from a neptune 4 pro with a .2mm nozzle, and a neptune 3 pro with a .3mm nozzle!

it really is a shame that the official minis for the largest ttrpg in the world are so crap. what really baffles me is that assembling and priming them actually brings DOWN the quality of the minis. if they sold the mins un-assembled and un-primed, they'd be cheaper to produce and easier to paint, but as they are these pros are actually cons. also it's hilarious that they have "paint night kits," but my flgs had to throw in the possibility of winning $50 store credit to get anyone to actually want a crappy mini and 1/3 of a bottle per paint color.

Do you know where i can find the STLs for the painting handles?

I like the idea of FDM as easier to use / less hazardous, but as i'd want to primarily paint minis, rather than play with them - the quality is just not there yet (and i'm too ignorant of the tech to know it it ever will be). Watching a few videos, i understand that its the smaller nozzle size which improves the quality. I guess my question would be: how much smaller can the nozzles theoretically go in the future? or are we already the reaching the limit where the quality improvement will plateau due to physical limitations?

What's your favorite way to make Hero or Character minis stand out among the crowd of a collection? Check out Roll4Adventure! youtube.com/@roll4adventure

I wanted to get into 3d printing for a while, and I think I'll save for a really good FDM printer and just pay for a printing service if I really need the extra detail you get from resisn.

Instead of "cooling tower" increase "slow down if layer print time is below" and decrease "Enable fan if layer print time is below" under Filaments>>Cooling>>cooling thresholds.

Check out Roll4Adventure NOW! czcams.com/channels/Ud-gc5ccoajL1atMzmAk9A.html

I'm sorry. For miniatures, FDM printers have nothing to do with resin ones

Is that a fidget toy as a pallet?

What FDM printer do you use, and do you have any recommendations for someone completely new to 3d printing

they realy look good. for the rust: try to put the rust on places where the metal would not get touched that often and where it would have more contact with water or other wet objects. for example: rust on the edge of a blade does not makes so much sense, when the weapon is in use. but rust on the spot, where the wood of a spear is conected with the meatal tip would look better. you also could try to thin down the rust effect color a bit more, so the paint behaves more like a wash and gets easier into the deeper parts of the model, where more rust would be found.

It looks brilliant! I think you should go in Legion order, but I also can't wait to see what you do with the White Scars, Salamanders, and Raven Guard. Just a clarification on the Dark Angels lore, though. Caliban was originally a forest world inhabited by fantasy monsters. The knights, who later became the Dark Angels, hunted the Great Beasts. During Luthor's rebellion, Caliban was destroyed Alderaan-style, with only the Dark Angels fortress surviving.

It always feels like people get overly dramatic about "Muh layer lines" when you have about a dozen ways you can address them in FDM prints if they bother the person printing that much. If your choosing FDM because its cheaper or more convenient that obviously comes at a cost and that cost is putting in a bit more effort on print settings and miniature cleanup, assuming you arent just looking to put something on a board and arent concerned with how pretty it looks.

Short answer: No Long Answer: If you don’t mind layer lines so thick and chunky that the models like like they were built in Minecraft, then sure, they’re fine. Just know that everyone who compliments them thinks they look like crap even if they’re too polite to tell you.

Mantic minis are amazing! The bang for buck considering the sculpts, quality, options is really good

Why the Squidmar thumbnail 💀

Am interested in fdm printing minies although don't have an FDM printer (at hand right now). Been thinking about getting one, will see. Got a laser cutter and been using it away from home as can't use it here, was thinking about selling that..

I've been printing fdm minis for a while now, and I'll definitely try the blender tip, it seems easy enough to unscare me of this software 😅 The game changer for me has also been to change nozzle. Using only .4 nozzles is like buying a power drill and using only 1 bit with it. I heavily recommend everyone to buy a cheap kit of nozzles and experiment on your printer. Personally, I switch nozzles depending of the use case : .3 for miniatures (.2 is useless on average 3d printer, it cranks up the print time A LOT without too much improvement on details), .4 for terrains and vehicles, .6 for everyday life 3d prints. Switching nozzles is super easy and takes like 1 or 2 minutes maximum. All those on CZcams that recommend you do a whole mechanicus ritual to change nozzle is bs. Just preheat, remove filament, unscrew, put a new one and you're good to go. Hope this helps. Again, great video !

I love FDM minis. they are so light, they look great. And best of all they piss off resin snobs.

Hero Forge is such an amazing tool for PCs and DMs alike: nothing brings a player such joy as to hold their own character that they made... except to see them on the battle map! It's basically the reason I got into 3D printing to begin with. Now I do all kinds of stuff

Bruh, I printed more in one week when I got a 3d printer

We're these printed on FDM? I discovered your channel after starting to think that resin printing just isn't for me. You have reignited my passion for fdm, and I'm getting my Creality K1 back in shape. I've been using Titancraft because of their asset format, but I haven't reevaluated which customizable mini site would be best for fdm. Any thoughts?

Wow

I would never have thought of drybrushing as the first step. Great looking model and the acid green effect really works. Again a colour I wouldn’t have considered for a black dragon. I really need to look at more art for inspiration. Now you have the awesome mini you to give it a stat-block worthy of the paint job so your players don’t stomp all over it and finish it off in a couple of rounds.

I would love to see a video about support-free models! Bonus points if you have any recommended viewing for learning how to sculpt support-free models lol

You simply MUST show off the monsters too, you can't leave us hanging!!

What is the tray and pink thing you are putting the paint on.

Yes please!

I used to play Warhammer Fantasy Battles and had (and still have) a huge Skaven army. Now I’ve moved on to D&D but still love to paint up minis. You have done an incredible job with this one and the mini itself is full of character. Do you varnish your minis? I think I would want to protect the paint job if I had painted it as good as you did. I use a matt varnish for most of my minis but they are always intended for game play so liable to get some abuse😊

Some amazing paint jobs! I love painting my minis and I am always excited to see other peoples work, even more so when it’s as good as this. Yes for a follow up video!

Such a cool insight into your campaign. I've been dming and painting minis for probably 12 years now, but most of my games are online and so I almost never get to use em in-person.

A follow up video would be interesting

Cool video!

I think it would be really cool to see all the monsters too! Amazing work as usual 😁

I recently did this as well but mine ended up more blue/purple tinted than green

I like your ideas. I use ABS with 25% fan. Squirt down with acetone in a needle, seals layers and makes it very strong. Try printing two or 3 models at a time for cooling. PLA is weak in thin extrusions. PETG is stringy. I print with many shells for strength. I put the model in Meshmixer, Increase size 5 times make solid, then add .1mm offset to model. Then I rescale back to 32 mm scale. Push the maximum edge of the scale for FDM success. This will thicken the model an hopefully not ruin the detail too much.

Off topic but where did you get that desktop background?

Pls make a video on supportless minis! one of my favorites are BriteMinis miniatures

Literally my only complaint is I like it when my green skins are more bare chested, makes em' feel a bit more ragtag but, these are great sculpts, well painted

Awesome looking! Im painting a Local Legends green dragon, thats similar but not exact to D&D greens, not evil even just prankster😂. ❗️Keep in mind new designs of a race of dragons ( dragons a species ) like black, does NOT need to mean replacement of older designs. Think of it as phenotypes. Not all black dragons look exactly the same. And many more monsters in the new MM? Remember 1 dragon = 4 monsters due to 4 life stages. Also wish they add GEM dragons aaand missing second 5 of true dragons from Chromatics, Gem and Metallic families. I want to see yellow coastal salt dragons with win setup like a brass or coppers. Orange jungle dragons and purple mid-upper Underdark dragons in which the deep dragons are a lower underdark sub-species of.

I'm wondering if cutting off the horns and swapping them would have been better, as you wouldn't end up with that tight turn when getting them forward facing?

What layer thickness are these printed at?