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I try. Keep in mind that I run into a lot of the same things, so there's no point in making a video. Years ago I had a business in CA which included a wider variety of doors. Since moving to TN years ago, I've noticed there isn't quite the variety. But I try to shoot anything I haven't seen before. Thanks for watching.

That's not a bad idea and I do that with shorter jambs. My point is that with the 8ft jambs it's so flexible and very time consuming to plumb one side first, so as long as it's not egregious, I can just anchor it and then work backwards to get everything right, but that's a very experienced trick. Getting one side plumb from the start is a smart approach. Thanks for watching.

It can be done if you get creative with angles. pull out the side wood piece, then cut an angle, then glue it back in. Easier method would be to alter the jamb so it's 32 top and bottom or get a solid door. Thanks for watching.

There are different codes for different cities. It's hard to do ANY kind of waterproofing when doing a retrofit, so MY rule in that case is do the best you can. If it's new construction or adequate access, a spray is no acceptable, but if it provides some protection, it's better than nothing. Thanks for watching.

I've never found anything regarding these and the manufacturers don't provide any info because they're all so different, so I posted this to share what I've learned and I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.

It's possible, yet far more difficult than you might imagine and they always look terrible. No matter how well done, there will always be a line and it's very difficult to patch and paint. Cutting a wedge that goes from 3/4" thick to zero is very challenging and messy. Leaves the client with patch and paint work. This way repairs the door and looks new and also solves the threshold issue. Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.

These are the most challenging of all locks I've death with, but I've never experienced that particular issue. Any kind of thumb turn issue for me was solved by either making the hole a little bigger to eliminate any obstructions. Realigning the lock because if it's slightly crooked it won't work, or making sure that piece that holds the thumb turn is firmly aligned with the notch AND you only have it on one side of the lock, not both. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Yes, generally speaking, whatever size door you want should be installed into a Rough Opening that is 2" wider and 2" taller than the actual door. Therefore, if you want a 30" x 82" door, your Rough Opening (framing) should be 32" wide and 82" tall. That allows enough space to install a door jamb and door. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate that, and glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.

That's very kind of you to say, and I appreciate that. I know how challenging it can be to figure out these mysteries. So after doing this so many times, I'm happy to share my methods with others. So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.

I'd never thought of that. I don't think it's necessary in this case, and if you have to remove or adjust or if it slips, it's a big mess. I've done about 10 of these and never used such a thing so I'm sure you'll be good. Thanks for watching.

That's great to hear and the security screws are overkill anyway. In 15 years of working on doors, I've NEVER seen a case where someone tried to unscrew something. It's too noisy, difficult and time consuming. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.

I'm glad you found it helpful. It's rare to find anyone willing to do these as they can be tricky, so I'm happy to pass on some knowledge. Thanks for watching.

Yes and if you understood doors and old frames, you'd know why. With very old jambs, especially ones that have the old metal style weatherstripping, there are very uneven surfaces. When viewed from the outside, as in the last frame, it's clear to see that the door closes and seals properly. However because of the uneven, bumpy surfaces, the light can easily travel around corners and appear at various angles. The owner was aware of this, and plans to get a new prehung door by winter and will be hiring to me to install it. For THIS visit, he simply needed to get the door working properly and securely. Don't feel bad, I don't expect non door professionals to understand everything, and thanks for watching.

I'm no expert at drywall, but that's a good thing to do. Thanks for watching.

Yes, that would be ideal, but keep in mind, I'm not a window tech and don't stock that stuff, and I showed up to install a door, used what was available, and did this guy a solid. Thanks for watching.

no. house gets wrapped first typically. Many window guys/companies have variations on how to do this, but this is a good general procedure to follow. Thanks for watching.

That's great to hear. So glad I could assist. Thanks for watching.

Happy to help. Thanks for watching.

I work for a distributor who sells 8 different manufacturers ranging from vinyl/composite to steel and I must say, I've never seen the butterfly flashing method included in any installation instructions, but now that I see it I'm like "oh yeah, that makes sense".

With a certain type of flashing tape, you can stretch it around the corners and the butterfly is not necessary. I'm NOT a window guy so the butterfly is kind of an amateur move by guys like me who aren't experienced at this. I was just helping out my door client. Thanks for watching.

In my door work, I've watched a lot of guys wrap windows, so I understand the concept. Good to hear that I did it correctly. Thanks for watching.

@@gabrieljohnson5077 unfortunately they don't have the instructions included with the windows, why I will never know. But rep showed me the CZcams video he was actually in from pellas own CZcams channel and they explained it while he did the work. Granted this is from the 2000's so it's a little dated now but still.

Every contractor has their way of doing things, so when I'm trying to help someone out with this, I just stick to the basics. Thanks for watching.

@@NashvilleDoorCompanyPeter Very true still liked your way. much simpler and faster lol still great job

There are many ways to do this, and keep in mind, I wasn't planning on doing this. I was there to install a door. I used what was available and did him a favor. Thanks for watching.

That sounds fun. Just take it apart carefully and take pics at each stage if you're confused. It's not that hard. Thanks for watching.

You could be right. I think he gave it a good effort, but just didn't know the best practices. I'm certainly not a window guy, but I've water-proofed enough doors to understand the general idea. Thanks for watching.

It's hard to say without seeing it, but in the past when that has happened to me it was because I had the body facing the wrong way. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays thanks for the reply, wish I could send a video here. The door had fully opened and closed well for several years, then now it stops a half. When I unhinged the door closer the door with close fully, but not when attached to the rotating ball. Must be something internal to the closer.

I'm happy to help but I'm not sure what you mean by "slats." "The slat next falls out.." I don't understand this. IF you don't have firm wood into which you can install the hardware, try removing the top jamb or floor board and install something more stable, and then start from there, but please add more if you can clarify, I';ll gladly assist with whatever knowledge I can share. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays I am creating a rotating slat wall. The wood pieces are vertically able. I have built a wooden frame with a header and footer 9 x 7‘. There are 22 vertical pieces that I have to install into that wall. They are 7 feet long as well. They are cut perfectly to size to accommodate for the hardware and the ball bearing. The problem is I can’t seem to get one piece without the other piece falling out as the clearance for the hardware is not allowing me to insert. I’m thinking of chisel out the wood to allow the hardware to fit flush, but I worry that it will be too short. Do you have any techniques or tricks that would allow me to insert all the slats before I secure the header.?

Really appreciate your response

I appreciate those kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed. I have searched long and hard for any assistance on these types of installations. There is no instruction anywhere that I'm aware of when it comes to doing a retrofit like this. There are no guidelines and manufacturers offer nothing, so I just try to get them in securely and make sure they work, and pass on my experience to others. Thanks for watching.

I love hearing that. These can be deceptively tricky so I'm happy to share some knowledge. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.

Make sure you replace the wheels if you go through with this. This video was a temp emergency fix for a party that day at my neighbor's. We got the wheels replaced the next week. Thanks for watching.

That's my favorite part. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

The Johnson brand soft close is the only brand I've ever installed. High quality. One warning, the mechanism inside the pocket has to be tested and working perfectly before you can close it up. Once closed there's absolutely NO WAY to reach it, adjust it or anything. In my experience, most don't care about the soft close when it comes to opening, but the one that actually CLOSES the door is great because it pulls it against the jamb and gives a nicer seal. So if you can only do one, do the closing side, but I've done both and never had a problem with Johnson products. I'm not affiliated with them, but I gladly give credit to good products. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays thanks for replying. One more question... if I want new doors, can I use any door that fits properly? I was thinking the 6 panel bedroom type doors, but don't want to use those if I'm not supposed to.

No. Jambs and frames are the same. Casing and trim are the same. A jamb or frame is the typically 3/4" thick material into which the door is installed. The casing or trim is the decorative moulding that goes around the installed jamb. Great question. Thanks for watching.

With these tips, it's not that hard, but it took me about 10 doors to figure out this system so I'm happy to pass on some knowledge. Thanks for watching.

Congrats. That sounds fun. It's hard to give exact pricing because I have to look at the logistics. Parking, stairs, are the doors staged or am I carrying them to location, wraparound or welded frame. And of course I'd give a big discount for bulk because day 1 is always awkward and sluggish and might only get one door done. By day 3 you're cruising because you figure out a system. I like to price per door. Of course nobody has an endless budget but depending on how hard they are to install, I'd say $200 per is a good starting point. With that many you might even propose doing the first 5 for X amount and then agree on a per door price going forward. Don't be afraid to ask for what you're worth because nobody else is going to be able to do that job, that's why they contacted YOU. Good luck and thanks for watching.

There is a freight elevator. I have a four wheel door cart. I think these guys have three similar buildings too. So Thanks for responding.

For that I free-handed it on the table saw. Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching. I appreciate it

That's great to hear. They are a complete mystery to those who haven't actually opened one up, so I'm happy to pass on some experience. Thanks for watching.

Not sure exactly what you mean, but I always work alone unless it's an unusually sized door, like over 200lbs or 8ft tall or if there are more than 15 doors on a job. Otherwise, I'm on my own. Thanks for watching.

Uh boy. I'm far from a pro when it comes to drywall, but I try to explain it at least. Thanks for watching.

Keep in mind that I do this for a living and these are actual jobs. I always choose the best and most efficient course of action. Doors are tricky and that's why my businesses have always thrived because many people think there's a simple fix, when often, there are a number of steps that need to be followed in order to do it properly. Thanks for watching.

The quality of work in the video is very good. I was also looking for an easy fix, amateur DIY, my room door little all around gap but not good for air lock with air conditioning. It will look very bad but Sticking stripes of carpet to the door will fill 2 to 5mm gaps.

@@askillthatpays I do respect that you do this for a living. However, I just complained to my landlord about this exact problem yesterday. Half an hour later I heard a drilling sound at my door for like 30sec, I looked out and they had installed an upside-down door sweep at the top of the door. Last night I had no mosquitos, so I think it worked perfectly.

Glad you find them useful. I'm happy to share my experience. thanks for watching. I appreciate it.

No doubt, and I think he'll spend more time cleaning that door than he does painting. LOL. Thanks for watching.

Glad you found it helpful and thanks for watching.

on the Home Depot website search for "Door Jamb Weatherstrip Set" Thanks for watching.

Haaaa. My daughter loves reading the Ron Swanson comments. Huge fan. Thanks

Yes. You need to raise the top left corner of the right door and the top right corner of the left door. A 1" gap is pretty extreme and you might have to reposition the hardware on the door. Good luck and thanks for watching.