Video

@WestHaddnin possibly tore seal on install. I would buy a new seal do not reuse one. Could also be bad head gasket( burning coolant does it smell sweet ?) or residual oil that has built up in the expansion chamber and silencer. Take off exhaust and repack silencer and clean out the expansion chamber. Also what is your mix ratio and what oil ?

I’m hoping that I tore the seal on install. I changed the headgasket 3 times just to make sure. It doesn’t really smell sweet, it smells like like transmission oil is being burnt. Just weird I changed it twice so far and still the same thing. I just ordered some pro-x seals which are supposedly made in the OEM factories because the last 2 times I used vertex seals. As soon as it I get them I will install it and keep you posted . Btw, I’m using Lucas 2cycle mix 40:1. Same mix I use in my cr85 2006 with no issues.

Also, how long did it take for the smoke to get burnt off after you replaced the seal?

@WestHaddnin I had to repack silencer as it was caked in oil once I did that it cleared up

@@quickshiftoutdoorsinteresting … I will keep that in mind bro. Thank you. Would u mind sharing what jets you used? I just wanna know for comparison if you don’t mind?

I sold my 510 so I'm not sure if those forks have them or not but there's usually a little grub screw that's loctited in you need to remove and then the chrome tube threads out of the fork leg. You have need to also apply heat to the frok leg to get the chrome tube to thread out. Obviously this is also with the spring and fork cartridge removed from the fork as well.

@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks, I can get the stanchions out of the fork lugs but I’m struggling to get the cartridge out from the bottom of the fork lug. Seems there is a tool required for this to hold the internals. Will try again tomorrow.

There aren't any seals on it i beleive. Perfectly OK to put a little rtv around it to prevent the leaking, just be careful not to put to much as it can get into the motor!

No it was loading up the muffler with oil and wouldn't rev out. Smoked like crazy

Wat make it idle high

Could be the crank seal on the magneto side or any other air leak into the motor

Sounds like it seized up to me. Are you able to shift through the gears ? If you can get it in neutral then piston probably seized up. Easy enough to find out by removing the head and cylinder

@@quickshiftoutdoors I thought same Cause I holed a 89 kx 125 in 5th wide open an it just fluttered while coasting to a stop

@@quickshiftoutdoors I'm gonna open it up tomorrow and see what's going on. I just got the bike an I don't know when last top end was done. Kinda thinking ring let got an got lodged. What's the contact for the cylinder guys you use?

Sorry I'm just getting back to you now, millennium technologies is a great place for replacing cylinders as well

@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks, I actually sent it to them couple weeks ago. Hoping it all goes well. I can not say the sales team has any technical understanding, they seem more like car salesman to me. hopefully the engineers do know what they’re doing.

You should be in good hands. I've heard nothing but good things about millennium as well!

If I remember correctly I used maxima 85-150 which is 5w equivalent

@@quickshiftoutdoors helpfully video I'm just trying to find the oil type from the manual but I can't find it.. the W5 is correct type from manual or performs better from W10?

Pretty sure manual states 5w is stock for the forks.

@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks man ..

Armour Bodies

The crank seal on clutch side was accessible without splitting the cases

​@@quickshiftoutdoorsliterally The information I'm looking for

Honestly I'm not sure. I bought the tool from traxxion dynamics i believe. It has multiple thread sizes that it will fit.

If I remember 2 base coats of white, 2 coats blue and I think I did 3 coats of clear

Yes for those not in America lol.

The decompression cable is attached It was removed in the video in order to remove the valve cover. I very rarely if ever need to use the manual decompression lever to start the bike.

Also you can see me removing the cable after all the plastics are taken off.

Price depends on if you need a replated cylinder or not. A basic too end kit with piston, rings,gaskets will run prob around 200 or less for 125. Your looking at least 250+ for a replated cylinder if its needed

Frequent oil changes with a quality oil(every 500 miles or so) valve check ever 1K and clean air filter and quality fuel

rocky mountain atv definitely

You could turn the motor over would be by pulling the left cover and turning the flywheel over until at top dead center

@@quickshiftoutdoors Thanks for the tip. Maybe if I assemble the clutch and spin the front sprocket with a chain I could avoid buying a new seal.

@@quickshiftoutdoors Also thanks to your video I know exactly what to do. Much appreciated, good guide.

I got one recently and im "tuning" it so i havent even gotten to ride it yet. Still im already looking at a 701 and so should you. This is a pure blood race bike, and you should avoid them. They're not meant for daily use and are expensive to maintain. The only good 510's anyway are 2006 and 2007, which have carburetors. The fuel injected models have alot of electrical problems.

@@handlmycck I know that they are pure race bikes and need bunch of attention. Still I don’t want to ride a 701. It’s not that special anymore and als pretty heavy and the paper, even tho I’ve never ridden one. Appreciate your comment. What did you got recently? A 125 or a 510?

@@ludwig6040 2006 510, carburated. Its in nuts and bolts + whole frame powdered awaiting for parts. I did also have a 125 smr 2013 and a wr 125 2004 when i was younger.

@@handlmycck sounds pretty sick.

@@ludwig6040 Yeah the 510 is gonna be my sunshine. If you do decide to get one try to get a 2007, theyre the latest carburated model. Injection adds a whole new level of electrical problems + you need a powercommander etc. Ive heard theyre pretty unreliable.

I check valve lash every other oil change in this bike, about every 1K Miles