Video

The eliminate beta on Acta Non Verba was nothing short of insanity 😭 Crazy strength Tom!

Tension 12 by 12 at Boulder lab Brunswick

Title got that Athlean X ring to it haha

Hoseok lee DO NOT like this video! ;) Tom! If You have to use your legs it clearly means that your arms are just too weak :D

So good Tom! I've recently been thinking about this. I think I see it a bit like this: The fingerboard is hyper specific to finger strength. The board translates that strength to technique on the wall. It almost links the two modes of the sport together.

Yes. My thoughts ; "board climbing rewards a lot no brain climbing". It does. But it's not useless for outdoor. What i've noticed is that being able to pull hard, to power through a section, totally inefficiently, is actually a very good first step in a route crux or hard sequence. You've seen holds, it seems doable, but you haven't done it yet. Maybe it's the first time you're going up the route. I usually ram through those sections pretty quickly, in an ugly fashion. When i do, i think "ok. That's doable, but definitely sub-optimal. I'll find something better later" By the way, we could make the argument the other way : "climbing on those super technical boulders in the gym makes you optimize so many positions that when you encounter a good old no brainer boulder outside, you're unable to do it because you're trying to flee from hard moves". That's also true. Turns out, board and set boulders are very, very complementary.

Yeah we recently got a kilter board at my gym and while I enjoyed at first, I honestly just got bored with it Many of the climbers at my gym really enjoy it, but I just find it limiting as far types of holds and movement. I get bored with things easily though say maybe it's just me.

I noticed how squared up my movement had become, it feels strong but turns out to be a one trick pony, i try to set now to limit some of the natural 'squareness' board climbing puts you in. I also sometimes set foot holds or only use really small ones. I have a 20° board and am making small holds as well now to build more functional finger strentgh, at nearly 50 i dont have the time or patience for hangboard sessions...more climbing i say! Love your vids too Tom, Cheers for the content. 😊

I fell into this trap big time. Turns out sorting by most repeats leads you to become a specialist mostly in massive moves on good holds. Guess what style doesn't crop up outdoors a lot 😅

Good, I don't like outdoor climbing

You just assume I climb outside at all :D

Board climbing and some smooth dnb! Excellent combination. I agree but i dont think people neee saving from board climbing. It is imo so much more fun than climbing in the gym. And indeed, board climbing doesnt need rules! Start on which ever row and finish where u want. Match heel hook, toe hook where possible. Nice one Tom

Board climbing has given me a solid climbing IQ of 10, Perth granite is KILLING my outdoor climbing, Grampians in September though!

Great video indeed 🫡

But Tom you barely rock climb anymore with those boards. Get out there and do the red proj!

Nice video Tom! How do you like the short TB? I am psyched to hear your feedback as you climb more on it! <3

Excellent video, love your content! My gym is very small, an once ive cleared the main wall i switch over to the kilterboard (only training board we have). I ended up doing so many "no match" problems that brain forgot it was even a choice xD Any chance you know the song names in video? Shits groovy

I prefer using open feet on the problems I set on my spraywall. I avoid tracking and try and use small footholds. It allows me to train much closer to the way I climb outdoors and also I enjoy my problems more because I am not forcing myself into an awkwardly small box I rarely climb in outdoors...

wrong again youtube algo, I don't board climb or climb outdoors!

Tom, I highly recommend you check out Tension's board lord video. In it, Zach Galla, Noah Wheeler, and Ben Burkhalter give burns on the extension to the Acta Non Verba project and give it V15. I think you'd also be interested in seeing the intended beta (although yours seems to work killer!).

It's funny because I've actually found that my core/tension knowledge while climbing has been one of my biggest gains from (basically) exclusively climbing on my tiny home spraywall... Of course with real rock when it's in-season. Doing your couch-sets (realistically, bathroom sets) and combining that with the "if you do 7 attempts and make progress, reset the 7 counter and keep going" idea has made me figure out all sorts of small tricks to use for bad footholds and tricky moves that I don't think I would ever have come up with during a commercial set. I still think the general idea behind this video is true, because I see it in some friends who basically only moonboard, but I think overall if you're training certain things deliberately, it doesn't matter if it's on a board or not. Caveat: Also install some absolute garbage footholds on your boards and use them exclusively. Deliberate training using jugs for feet probably won't help that much.

Completely agree. I feel like the upper level MB problems are mostly solved by campusing on smaller or further holds. I tend to gravitate to technique nuanced problems. I find them more fun.

I have to say this is basically true for me. I set up a board in my garage 6 months ago and quit my gym membership. Spent all winter climbing on the board and getting strong. But my outdoor climbing didn't get any better, in fact it got worse. My climbing IQ went down a lot, as did my lead head and my endurance. I was also expending so much energy on the board during the week that I was too tired to perform outside on weekends. To make matters worse, I picked up a finger injury from board climbing so much! Still, I think (hope) it will help in the long run as I adapt to it.

for me i dont ever think ill stop board climbing because i actually prefer climbing on a board over climbing on a real wall. im not sure why but i enjoy board climbing more than anything and all my projects are board climbs. maybe if i get better ill find that board climbing is boring but right now climbing v9 - v10 on the moonboard for projects is super fun

❤‍🔥

I 100% feel that I'm lacking some strength because I never board climb (no access, only commercial sets) but when I climb outside I never really see those crazy moonboard style jump and cut moves. So idk, am I really lacking or do I just not realise that I'm lacking because I don't have access to a board?

100% agree with you and your explanations were point on.

cool board

Have you tried the mini moonboard?

Living in the Netherlands is killing my outdoor climbing. Board climbing is all I got 🥲

I saw Daniel Woods talking about his board and that it incorporated more foot holds to try to address the, “front wheel driving,” though I haven’t seen much on his board to know much more about it. Curious if you’d find that one more appealing?

Savage beta on Acta!

So hump of trouble is 9a+? Or is wheel of life your 9a+?

Hump of trouble confirmed 36 9a+

Climbing is killing your outdoor climbing

Thought you were genuinely just talking about sarsaparilla jelly beans for a good half minute 😂

Climbing at coolum is killing my climbing

Tom you clearly underestimate how weak my arms are and how much my feet need to work to keep me on the wall

good footholds kill your outdoor climbing! i don't think board climbing in general is a problem but board climbing with good footholds (like you have on the moon, tension and kilter board) is. climbing on really bad footholds on 45 degree helped my lower body technique tremendously

Living in the flattest country in the world is hurting my outdoor climbing

Knee surgery is killing my climbing.

I would say my biggest mistake while training is not training for power/ finger strength sooner. There is a million videos on social media talking about how you shouldnt hang board until youve climbed for a year of that you dont need to get stronger just get better technique. And while it can be super beneficial to focus on tech it can make us blind to obvious weaknesses. I was climbing v7's but could do more than 5 pull-ups. This and many situations like that tend to not be obvoius when its ourselves so I encourage every climber to reflect on if you feel like technique or strength holds you back as its not as black and white as social media says it is.

They work Deus ex Machina - the extension for Acta Non Verba - in this Tension video: czcams.com/video/qJJkEcgmbpg/video.html

Hey Tom. Im building a mini moonboard but with 60cm of extension at each side. Also 60cm at the top. And i will put more holds between the mini moon holds and also some volumes. I would like to know how much it took the process of build it since the first day😊

more Board content 🙏🏼

Fantastic video Tom, can you provide me the name of the app that you use at the beginning of your video, I'll be more than grateful with that

There is such a need for more climbs at this 10x8 crop. PLEASE keep opening new problems! We desperately need V5-8. Subscribed to you just to hopefully see you warm up on my projects 😂

Could you send links to where you bought the adjustable board and the Tension board 2 in aus?