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I already use Dimafix. A heated enclosure is way better and now I don't need to use adhesive for most parts. There's a reason why Stratasys machines and other higher end industrial machines have it. I believe it also helps with part strength and layer adhesion. PID would be nice but not necessary from what I've experienced. Good luck!

@@emberprototypes bought your setup c:

Amazing! 🎉

This is biomed durable that gets dyed with some alcohol ink

Thank you for watching!!

Thanks for watching!

It's at the back near the poop chute. See 7:58 in the video!

It's my own design, as I'm testing a couple of other things with it. It's OK. I am skeptical about how well these actually work as there has been little to no scientific tests or experiments done...something I would like to do (and possibly make a video about) at some point

@@emberprototypes Would love to see that video, hope you make it at some point!

Some custom printers for Advanced 3D Printing!

Ooo which plate did you win??? And unfortunately 525x525 is the max we can accommodate for now with our equipment 🥲

@@emberprototypes I had my pick of a bambu or a Prusa and I opted for the bamboo since my mk3s has plenty of beds right now and it is going to be revised into the rack robo EDM.

@@artfedderson nice!! Glad you like it 😁

Because the pei flakes off like the first side shown if you laser it

@@emberprototypes Maybe add that in the comments or the title. It just looked like you shown one side of your product to the other side. I just started looing in to custom build plates and this made no sense to me. Thank you for clarifying.

Yup!

Is this 3D printed? What did you use to heat it?

I didn't actually test this because the inside of the printer shouldn't get above 60C...but I'm sure it can go higher than that.

This already exists and is open source. Look up "kTAMV". Many people are already using it with the CXC 🙂

@@emberprototypes Oh wow I've never seen that, it's essentially exactly what I'm looking for! It's now looking increasingly likely that I'll be planning on using a camera for hotend alignment on my planned IDEX. Cheers!

@@HorizonMakes good luck!

czcams.com/users/shortsmbltGru62kM?si=5OOnoefcwnYw_Q4v

@@emberprototypesahh, thanks. Being in a short maybe doesn’t provide enough context. Do you though :)

@@LabraDork-uj7ib I have a full video here but yeah, obviously shorts lack context often czcams.com/video/Vfh08F6W7I0/video.htmlsi=Ixepk2Ec_VGepMMG

Inspect your tanks regularly!

Haha I do have some stuff in the pipeline!

I made my own as I'm testing some additional future things 🙂

Awesome 💪and yup PAHT-CF!

@@emberprototypes did you change any settings or you use it as bambulab said? Asking because the profile of abs is 90c bed and I always go up to 110c to avoid warping.

@@JoseAguiloworkshops I think I did something similar as you, increase bed temps and reduce cooling a little bit. Otherwise pretty much stock.

@@emberprototypes by how much you reduce the cooling? Of course if you can share.

@@JoseAguiloworkshops I just capped max cooling to 50% instead of the default 80%. I think I also dropped volumetric flow rate down by 5 or 10% just to get more reliability out too

That's odd, doesn't seem to happen on my units. But yes, you can source and replace them - they're a pretty common component!

Thanks for watching!

I actually didn't test the bimetallic switch to find out what temperature it shuts off at...probably should have. The inkbird controller is simply turning the heater on and off, so it's not PID, hence why the temperature graph swings so much like that. PID would obviously be better, but requires more work. Thanks for watching!

Yes it simply turns the heater on and off, so less precise control than something like PID, but with the convenience of a really easy solution.

This isn't surprising to hear. I have yet to encounter any problems though!

Plenty of people in HPPS discord have shown 55-60' allows for big Nylon/PC/ASA prints. So it doesn't seem like you have to go to 80'.

​​@@DESX312 may you wanna give me a reference? From my experience, ASA is easy, ABS, easy, Pure Nylon or PC, hard, but also depending on the geometry and size and additives. Most PC filaments are mixed with other stuff eg.

@sebastiankarafiat796 I've printed large Polymaker Polymax PC and PAHT-CF (from Bambu Lab, which is just a PA-12 blend) by using Magigoo PA and Magigoo PC, setting a brim, and then setting a tall skirt as an insulation layer. That's been at no more than 51-52' too. I'm going to do either this solution, AND/or insulation so I can hopefully get rid of skirt/brim. I should also add im doing 50-60% infill too and 6 walls. I mostly use these engineering filaments to make gears for prototype gear boxes. Some of which are quite large. Typically, the higher the infill, the more chances for shrinkage you have, and thus, the more warping. But working for me so far. I think the adhesive helps substantially, but I also use gyroid infill, which is supposed to be less prone to warp.

​@@DESX312 exactly what i'm talking about....the polymax PC is a special blend for desktop printers with greatly reduced temp requirements....when doing pure PC, i only had success with very small parts, everything bigger, especially long and thin parts will warp horribly, and it will lift your whole build plate about 2cm on the edges cause it sticks so well. PA the same. PA-CF, no problem....tried this on several enclosed printers, one with active heating up to 60°....a friend of mine actually builds a crazy fullmetal corexy printer rated for ridiculous 100° chamber temp especially for that....i personally don't have a problem printing special blends, but its definitly not industrial grade

Is there a wiki or guide to bambu home-assistant integration somewhere? I'm pretty out of the loop on that haha

Oh interesting! This hasn't happened to me at all but I'll keep an eye out 👀

@@emberprototypes also I had a brain fart here^ I meant to say the poop lands in the heater . Not the air intake.

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!

Where did you read/learn this? A quick search shows that some activated carbons can work up to 200C in removing VOCs, but their efficiency may decrease with increasing temperature. It also sounds highly dependent on the type of activated carbon and the type of organic compounds themselves. I have not seen any sources say outright that they "do not work" at 60C, but I only spent a couple of minutes looking and asking ChatGPT.

@@emberprototypes BOFA touched on this during an interveiw at FormNext last year (2023). i cant find it now of coarse. but.... what i took from it is that carbon expands with heat as everything does and the specific VOCs related to 3d printing are smaller at temps about 60c. This allows them to pass right past the carbon and not be filtered. Mind you a thought i just had is....BOFA is in the market to sell filters.... so maybe some snake oil here. but it makes sence and i belive with heat carbon looses its ability to filter. Lots goes into it "working" what material your printing, temps not of the chamber but of the actual carbon ect.

@@emberprototypes One more thing to check out. NeverMore offers a product called "Scorch". its for ptinting in temps up to 65c.... they state that above 60c you see a significant decrease in performance of regular carbon. Scorch is carbon but modified somehow.

@@NWalker-zx6xu very interesting. I'll keep my eyes peeled for any further info or literature on that! I have a BOFA fume extractor and they definitely work great so I do trust them to some extent.

I sometimes use "we" colloquially to refer to Ember Prototypes as a brand, but it's basically just me!

@@emberprototypes I write it as I (we)

It's an affiliate link so it depends which country you're in. Amazon will try to find the closest thing to the actual unit I purchased in your country. If it's not giving you the same heater, you can try to search for it instead.

I've only upgraded the X1C. Also, as I mentioned in the video, thin gauge thermocouples often read at higher temperatures in applications like this because of their low thermal mass. The X1E uses all the same components and is rated for 60C. The temperature sensor is at the top near the front door and undoubtly has higher thermal mass and slower response than the thin gauge thermocouples I used. My controller setpoint is 65C and the average temperature measured with thermocouples oscillates between 55 to 70C. However, the temperature reading from the Bambulab sensor itself never goes over 60C. So assuming they use that same temperature sensor to control internal chamber temps on the X1E, I think we are fine. Only time will tell - but this is definitely something I have carefully considered.

@@emberprototypes One important difference between X1C and X1E is the extruder module, especially the controller PCB inside. The PCB or semiconductors of the X1E may have a higher temperature rating. Although your demo is only the X1C, people may be inspired to try the same heater for their own printer. If their printer contains PLA-structural parts as part of the chamber, these can be severely damaged when exposed to your heater module (PLA starts softening at 60degC?). I would mention a simple warning against this in your own pinned comment

Does the heater have any regulatory approval, like UL or the European CE? And I don't consider CE =Chinese Exports as a valid one...

@@vsijben if it does, I doubt it's real. Likely just another certification-less item from overseas (which is why I wanted to open it up and check for safety precautions)

Good luck! Thanks for watching!

I was on a time crunch to get these molds out so I had to change two variables at once unfortunately 😢

80C is likely too high. The X1E maxes out at 60C for good reason. 80C+ requires isolation of the electronics & motors like Stratasys machines do.

I totally did not see that, but I guess great minds think alike 😅

I should probably use screws and add a fan at the back at some point...but it seems to be working fine so far (I've been running it non-stop 8+ hours every day doing some production ABS work 😅)

@@emberprototypes now if someone could find a way to get the nozzle up to 350c and bed to 120c I’d be golden. Would like to stay all BL to keep a homogenous ecosystem which would make my workflow easier but as of right now running Qidi Q1 Pro for PPS CF because for the price it’s the best bang for buck for that material.

I actually looked at these beforehand and I think there were a couple of problems: 1) I think they have a max setting to them (eg. 50C) 2) They are typically <100W I never bought one to test though.

@@emberprototypes Do you really need more than 50°C in the chamber of your X1C? I print ASA only but it's true that you are printing nylon, so YMMV. Anyway, pay attention because I suspect that more than 50°C for hours repeatedly could significantly shorten the lifespan of the motherboard and stepper motors, as in the Bambu Lab P1 and X1 series these elements are not isolated from the heated chamber, sadly.

@@fluxcapacitor There's a reason why Stratasys machines have 80C+ chambers for ASA, ABS, PC, etc. It's definitely very geometry dependent but it helps. The X1E has an integrated heater that goes up to 60C and uses the same internal components, so up to 60 should be fine. The temperature sensor is also at the door, whereas my location is at the back closer to heat sources, so my temperature controller is actually set to 65 to account for differences in temperature offsets.

This unit is on Amazon UK for £32 today. But the thermostatic ones for 3D resin printers are only £67 so by the time you add thermostatic control they end up much the same. The resin printers ones may be a good bet.

@@NickBR57 just be careful, I'm pretty sure some of those only allow you to control the setpoint to 50C which might not be good enough. Plus their wattage is low so it may or may not do anything at all (or take forever to heat).

Thank you so much for watching & subscribing! 🙏