Video

I got lucky and the lower unit went in fairly easily. I tilted the outboard up so I could see up it whilst sitting on a chair. Also used a strong flashlight to get a good look inside. Was pretty much able to see the drive shaft until the last moment at the right angle. My issue was that the gear selector clamp was quite high up so couldn’t get a socket on it. Got there in the end. Thanks for making these videos they’ve really helped !!

I have never seen a shaft keyway fall out before they are usually installed snug. If it falls out then someone has messed with it. Then again I have never messed with outboards but I have worked on many motors.

If, when using internal tank and you find it's taking 15 pulls to prime the bastard....?? Fill up your damn internal fuel tank. The carb intake point is high up on these motors (3/4 's the way up the internal tank). So stop fighting an uphill priming situation by making it a downhill one Simply by filling the tank up past the 3/4 mark. Before starting period you will find out about five folds is sufficient versus the twenty pulls with a quarter tank

It seems very easy to understand about outboard motor. Thanks

Единственное отличное видео. Спасибо. Thanks ✌️😁✌️

Hi, I just bought Hangkai 2 stroke 6HP outboard, the look of lower part are similar with what you have on your video.. my question is, after I first use in the lake, i found some leaks out with green stuff ( grease + water ), the joint from the upper & lower part, the section leaks out is on your video unscrew and joint area ( not the lower gearbox area ) .. is that normal?? and inside will get wet everytime when I use the outboard motor ??

Thanks a lot for the nice video and all good comments! I'm really really glad I took my time to see this before I start working on my old 2 stroke 4 hp. I would guess the lower part on my 2 stroke is built the same as this 4 stroke. One essential question tho: If you turn the thing up side down, isnt there a real danger that the impeller securing pin can fall out of position inside there? I know its grease there, but still..

Hello, whats the diameter of oil plug gasket when switching gear box oil?

Hi, Thanks for the video, Could you please comment with some Trouble shooting, tips on what to do with a stuck gear shift handle. I have not done anything yet except managed to get the engine running. I know I will need to replace gear oil and impeller. could you list possible causes why the handle gear shift handle is stuck and what to do. the outboard has been sitting doing nothing for the last 4 years on a stand. it is a Johnson 6 HP 4 Stroke model number J6RL4SU (year 2006). Thanks

Is it normal for a small amount of water to come out of the plug where u connect the shifting rod together

Good video and lessons learned. Happy motoring. Thanks!

Gently clean the upwater pipe a few inches. You want a good seal to keep water pressure steady/solid. TINY bit of grease will help it slide. Vasoline is ok. Won't dissolve the rubber.

Also inspect and replace the rubber shaft and water up pipe rubber boot as well. Tight seals are necessary and cheap. Spinning shaft inside the rubber boot will cause wear of the boot collar. Salt is the enemy.

If used in salt water, good idea to clean the drive shaft and apply light coat of marine grease to help avoid corrosion. That's all.

Hello, looking for the same servicing on a 2022 MFS 115A , Thanks

wouldn't it be great if those of you who commented how you figured out to complete re-mounting the lower unit actually would make and post a brief video of doing it. I've read your post but the description doesn't convey like watching how to do this apparently difficult step.

Excellent video 👍thank you

My clamp fell off.What a nightmare. But the splines lined up very easily. I squirted oil up the leg on to the spline, which seems to have helped.

Will any problems accours if, when removing the shaft the clamp bolt which holds the gear rod was not fully loose and it pulled into reverse gear instead of staying in neutral. I reasembled it and the gears were out, R was N N was F etc, now I'm at your can't get it to go back in stage and it's pushing itself into gear with the clamp fully loose

My what fun! Problem is lining up vertically, using head torch used a square to sight the bottom of the receiving tube. Marked on the bottom of the casing to give me the right angle of approach, slid in first time (after doing above, the hour prior was painful)

One more thing for the long neck outboard like mine. It has an extra part between the lower unit and the rest of the motor to make it longer, obviously. Its about 6" long and if you just remove the lower unit, change the impeler and try o put it back with those extra 6" is next to impossible because the shaft guide hole is 6" inches too far. So what i did is i removed the extension, mounted it to the lower unit and than it was easy. I managed to put it all back without any problem, however, i do not remember hearing any clung sound.

I'm having problems with the starter cord

Many thanks for the video and those that contributed with your brilliant suggestions. I played this many times and read all the comments making notes to solve my exact same problem for my 2014 Mercury 6hp 4 stroke that came with my sailboat purchased last year. Here are my notes: When taking off the lower unit be careful to leave the locking clamp for the upper and lower gear shifters attached to the upper one. Just loosen it so the lower shifter can slide out. o Re-installing the lower unit was extremely difficult, I spent countless frustrating hours and could not get the driveshaft to mate with the hole. I managed to get the lower gear shifter through the clamp and the upper hole where the rubber bung is and the gear shifter should protrude through it and is visible from the outside. Bought an endoscope-inspection camera and saw what the problem was. The tip of the drive shaft was past the hole which protrudes a couple of inches down. You have to make sure the upper shifter is as far up and protruding through the rubber bung hole as possible, you can tighten the clamp and change gears to Forward to pull it up. You can use some rope to support the lower unit. Carefully lower the lower unit until you can see the shaft is just past the shoulder of that protruding driveshaft hole - the upper gear shifter may disappear under the rubber bung but shouldn’t come out of the hole underneath otherwise you’ll have to get this back in the hole again which is a bit fiddly. When you see that the tip of the drive shaft has been lowered down past the shoulder of the protruding drive shaft hole, push the lower unit back up and guide the drive shaft into the hole! Voila, sorted! Turn the prop a little in either direction and the drive shaft gear cog should fall through the mesh in the hole and lock up. That clunk sound and feeling is so satisfying! After using the endoscope it took me about 10 minutes to sort! Save myself money and the shame of taking it to a professional for a coked up DIY job. o To make sure the gears are set correctly (mine moved from the initial Reverse position when lowering the Lower Unit) the upper shifter should stick out of the rubber bung hole at the top of the leg as follows:-  The engine gear selector is in Forward gear, the tip of the upper linkage will now protrude from the hole in the top of the drive shaft housing by about 28mm (1 and 1/8 inches).  When it’s in Neutral the link protrudes by about 17mm and  when in Reverse by about 7mm.  You can turn the prop to see if its in gear or neutral and tighten/untighten the shifter linkage clamp (through the round spy hole) to adjust as above. To push down the gear shifter use a flat piece of metal (I used a paint scraper) to push down on the protruding upper shifter.

Hey Guys!! Got my Merc 4 running today after a year!! pulled the carb just like you said cleaned her out sprayed it with cleaner and I have a runner!! Thank you for this great tutorial..

Hi David Thankyou for your post. I’ve just changed the impeller on my Yamaha 5hp 4 stroke for the first time. I too struck the same problem as yours with relocating the drive shaft when reassembling the leg. I nearly had a hysterical laugh watching the motor upside down in the end to fix the problem except that I had the same issue and spent numerous frustrating hours trying to fix mine. An overnight brain storm had me thinking that I can use my fibre optic inspection camera to help me centralise the shaft. It worked and once I knew I was in the hub; the shaft engaged while I gently push up while spinning the prop. Saved me a journey of shame taking the motor to the dealer workshop to solve a botched DIY job.

Probably 10+ years since I’ve commented on CZcams.. great video found helpful because I’m still bed so decided to make sure I’ve cleaned it properly before putting back together.. I didn’t take that gold Pin out like you did.

Great video, helped me a lot. I fitted the the drive with the motor tilted (like attempt #1) and found a similar difficulty, but my problem was the gear rod to the tilt inhibitor wasn’t finding the hole. Once I guided it in using a small screwdriver from the outside the whole lot closed up with a satisfying “clunk”.

absolute best and most thorough video I've found on this, great job!!

Just splendid. Thank you.

Gracias from south Texas

Have battery juice, trimming up and down, radio and speakers come on. Engine bot starting?

Question: is the idle jet open through the center of the jet with the two side openings? I have a jet that looks like it was never drilled through the center.

Re- installation of the lower unit does need to be this difficult. Get about a 18" section of 2 X 10 scrap from a construction site. Place the 2 X 10 into a strong vice mounted securely on a work bench. Mount the outboard on top of the 2 X 10. Then tilt the motor up. Now the opening for the lower unit is at a comfortable working height. Lay a small pen light in the bottom "V" of the opening. Lightly lubricate the shift rod. Now carefully and slowly slide the lower unit in until it makes contact with the shift rod. Place your right hand into the small round opening and line up shift rod. With the pen lights illumination, make sure the drive shaft gets into its lower guide hole. Remove pen light. Keep right hand index finger on shift rod linkage. Now slide in the lower unit while still keeping your index finger on the shift rod linkage. Now hopefully with a little wiggling all the connections will make up. Hope this helps.

Got a 1992 9.9 evinrude and i triple checked/rebuilt the carb, replaced the power pack, charge coil, ignition coils, spark plugs, primer bulb, fuel pump, water pump, new fresh gas and STILL wont turn over. I have plenty spark from both plugs. And checked the killswitch and that works fine (obviously since i have spark). And whats weird is even when spraying ether in the carb, or spraying inside the spark plug holes, even putting a little gas in there, it STILL wont fire. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to for a second but then dies. Im at a loss here. Anyone who has any ideas much appreciated.

My engine has both overflow pipes missing but the engine is new where do those two pipes go to ? Thanks

Been figuring out outboard maintenance by trying to get a 2005 Suzuki going. So many in depth videos and text but not until yours did I grasp some of the crucial basics. Today one flaky old motor is running and I've learnt a few things. Thanks!

Top notch video. Thank you for taking the time to make it ☺️

Thanks for the video but after watching it twice I was still not able to get the outboard together, even after trying your two techniques. After spending an evening unsuccessfully trying, it dawned on me that as I was pushing the lower unit into the motor, the gear shifter was being forced into forward or reverse. This realization led me to spend more time with the lower unit further out, trying to feel out how to avoid tangling the shifter linkage when I was putting it in. One attempt with this new approach and it went right in.

What a nightmare. I too resorted to upside down attachment, using a strong thin string dangling up and out over the open shaft.. to hold the gearshift nut in place, it was a bit out of alignment when complete, but I was able to shove the selector shaft back down after loosening the nut again (once right way up!) ..by pushing with the flat centre of a spanner on the protruding section of the sleector shaft. The selector was part of the problem, no way it would protrude through the hole if inserted "right way up", A very honest and informative video, thanks!

Can the 4 stroke engine gear oil ever contaminate fuel in carburator

What if I had gotten my boat back fe the mechanic and did hear it run before I left. Then I didn't try and start it myself until 2 weeks later and it starts up and run at high RPM then I shut if down and it never stats back up again. And I originally had the mechanic replace the throttle cable and I noticed they didn't hook up 2 ling cage system's. What do I do ?? Help

Hello..i got same outboard..i have installed new impeller,thermostat,changed engine oil and gear and have good cooling water smoothly flowing yet overheating after 5 minutes running then stop..any idea pls...thanks

Excellent explanation, thank you.

Thanks so much for posting the video.

Hi, what kind of grease do you use in the grease gun? Morris K99 too? Thanks

My Zinc anode has essentially welded to the backing plate and is proving very difficult to remove. The bolt comes out, but the anode material is fixed (almost appears as though it has expanded). I've tried to pry it out with a flathead screwdriver, drill it out, dremel it out... all to no avail. I've greased and replaced the bolt with what little (and now brutalized) zinc material is left, hoping that the zinc will degrade with more time in the salt water. Is this an unusual problem to have and do you have any suggestions for removal? Thank you!

I was just trying to re install the lower unit on my Tohatsu 6. It WOULD NOT GO. I remembered why I had that nice bore scope in the bottom drawer and got it out. Even seeing where I was going it STILL was troublesome getting in the right spot. However it worked. What a design! I will load a pic if I can figure out how. drive.google.com/file/d/1vntcTcwZEBjxp0CmbzP0rq_0FWZeaYtu/view?usp=sharing

Great video

Hello! I recently bought a used 5HP 2015 Tohatsu. Seller said he had recently changed the oil. I wanted to make sure and I just did the oil change. The color was milky. After I drain the oil and filled back up, I did a test run in a bucket for a few minutes and redid the oil change. The color was still milky. Any suggestions as to what steps should take nacer?

This answered a few questions I had that I couldn't find an answer to on a new to me Tohatsu 5 HP (2009 model) MFS5BS just in the first few minutes. The model looks identical to mine. Do you have any videos that reference setting this linkage correctly? I got this unit home and Im seeing impeller bits in the flush water. I didnt get a water test before I brought it home... someone else looked at it for me in a different city and delivered it to me. It also appears stuck in gear - I put in neutral (unlocks the pull cord), pull the cord and the engine seems to run away a bit and the propeller is turning - shifting with the lever makes no difference. I can turn the propeller in either direction and it turns the motor over. I am guessing the linkage behind the rubber/plastic cover may provide some insight there. Do you have any videos that reference setting this linkage correctly? I am hoping that is what is wrong with shift issue. Also need to purge impeller bits from the raw water system. I think Dangar Marine has a video on this.