Video

Years ago I took a standard plastic housed relay and made it buzz like the one that was for my car above but you could BARELY hear it buzzing. It was so muted it would not work. The buzzer on this setup with the stamped steel lid and then with it not being tightly crimped to the base makes a nicely audible noise.

This is a diagram of the combination horn relay/key buzzer. live.staticflickr.com/392/18476113411_af2f9722dd_z.jpg

Thanks for the compliments. I looked and made a video with still shots and this was from 2020 when I cleaned, sanded, and oiled the deck : czcams.com/video/XQQeJurYsgc/video.html

And then here is another of the cupping I have but it's not bad in my book : czcams.com/video/RYMtZAsGEfg/video.html

Also do a search on youtube using stlnovas Cumaru for the search and then click onto the "video" portion and not "ALL" and it pulls up a 35 video's of mine from the deck: czcams.com/users/results?search_query=stlnovas+cumaru

Looks like I got them in March of 2015 and so far they have been holding up fine. When I first got them I applied the Mequiers Cleaner/wax to them and then a few years later when I put in the reproduction T3 headlight bulbs I cleaned them up once again and applied the wax to all of the surfaces. Every once in a while I have to clean off the bugs and so far have not noticed any plating issues. Pictures from when I got them in 2015: www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums/72157651137323400

Thanks for the suggestion. The noise has been there since I got the car back in 2012. I'm running a stock ignition points system with original plugs and reproduction wires. If it was an RF issue I would think that with the engine at let's say 2200 RPM whether in 3rd gear or in 2nd gear going at a slower vehicle speed in 2nd gear, the noise would be there but it's not. I've also been going down hills at speed and pushed in the clutch to allow the engine to go to idle or even shut the motor off at speed and coasted and the noise was there. Goofy thing too is it's always not present and could be due to a tailwind or headwind. Being an audio installer since the late 70's I did have ignition system issues with something like a bad wire arcing to ground but it was a ticking noise and then if I had a whining noise, sometimes it was a bad diode in the alternator allowing more of an AC ripple to get into the DC. Again, thanks for your input.

Some higher resolution still pictures: www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums/72157653890900923/with/19297640413 I just went looking at imports for the floor driver's door sill area handle assemblies and then used a standard 2 wire door lock actuator. All the stuff was one off making the stuff work. The cable adjusters are from a bicycle store.

It allowed the starter gear to get engaged with the flywheel gear and then have the electrical connection in the solenoid connect to where then the starter motor would start operating. This would happen with no one moving the ignition key position.

@@StlNovas thanks for responding

@@brianmorgan3659 No problem. It was just a 1 in a million defect with the spring breaking. I've never had a starter do that before. Heck I've got a 68 Chevy with the original starter and solenoid on it and never had an issue with it.

@@StlNovas I have a 2011suburban that is making a flex plate tinney sound when you accelerate I am thinking that the starter gear is floating around on the shaft

@@brianmorgan3659 If you can, inspect the gear on the flywheel. A buddy of mine had an SFI approved flywheel in a 60's Mustang with a late model hemi and automatic in it and he had it apart last year and a lot of the welds had broke between the outside ring gear and the stamped metal flywheel plate and he was real lucky it didn't come apart. He found it by accident (and I have to think on yours if it has the same issue, there might be witness/rub marks on it) when he was getting the transmission freshened up and since he owns a custom race car fabrication company, he tig welded it back together and then also added more welds that what were there originally. Before with broke welds: live.staticflickr.com/65535/53454829092_d5bf7edfd5_b.jpg

The coolant was still in the one gallon containers from the parts store as we had not gotten that far with putting in the radiator and plumbing it. We were doing a test fire to make sure things were good before doing more work.

I did that just for a math challenged person like you. Most people wouldn't make a stupid comment like yours but here it is. 😂

I just have to give you more czcams.com/channels/4Ni8r5M29FH9UyPdmdWLiQ.html , you have NO video's on your channel, and a WHOPPING 7 subscribers so I have to ask, when will you contribute anything except screwed up replies ?. You joined on Sept 28 2012 and nothing but crickets on your end ?.

Or some universal dust cap

@@ilanthonyli9499 Have you tried contacting the company ?. They might just send you a new one at no charge. If not maybe find a company that recones and buy one from them ?. Another idea is if someone has a 3d printer, maybe make your own custom one ?.

I looked at some still pictures I had in another site and the passenger side it looks like I used existing bolts for the heater box as the panel I made has 2 holes in it and can be seen more readily after the panel got painted. As far as the driver's side I kinda wonder if I used velcro on it as I cannot see any holes in that panel although I have before made a spanner bar inside the hole for the speaker and this attaches to the panel and then some screws through it into the cars kick panel and then the mounting bar gets covered up by the speaker being installed. I did talk to the old owner of the truck as him and another person have opened some A&W franchises here in the Saint Louis area and he tells me someone in France bought it a few years back. Anyway some still pictures in my Flickr account: www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums/72157689489330931/page1

Glad you got it figured out. I know I wondered how the terminals locked in and looking at new terminals before they got installed helped me out a lot. Being in the car audio business I've had to take terminals out of housings for various reasons and some locking tabs are easy to bend out of the way on the terminals while others, the plug housing has the locking tab on it that has to be lifted to disengage the terminal from the housing.

I've chased down judges too only to find out sometimes THEY have no idea what they are looking at. I love the shows too that have a "stock" class but then don't ding the cars in that class that have blatant aftermarket parts on them. I just shake my head and have found out it's more enjoyable just go to the shows and enjoy the cars, the people, and the scenery and if someone wants a trophy bad enough, they can always go and buy one.

Yep, you just have to give it time. This was how they were a couple years ago and don't know if you saw that video: czcams.com/video/dM59z2RUTOA/video.html I wondered how mine would work out after time and they have been closing real nicely now for a couple of years. Every once in a while when cleaning the car I wipe the weatherstrips with lemon pledge sprayed on a rag and this might be helping them stay nice also. Who knows sometimes.

I used thick board for more rigidity than thin board. I am not disappointed with how things have turned out. The cupping is so minor on my installation that you cannot feel it walking across it nor is it easily seen unless you do like I did with a straight edge across the tops and then barely sliding a penny under the gap and this is on just a few spots. It's now been over 10 years since I installed the boards and all is good and holding up VERY well.

For anyone to help, you need to tell us what year, make and model you are dealing with. If you also look in a factory shop manual, you should be able to trace the power wire down and it's location in the bulkhead connector (as well as finding out the color and gauge which too should be in the manual).

@@StlNovas it’s a 68 nova. Originally with a 307 which is gone and factory wiring is hacked up. Putting in a 350 with hei.

You're welcome. Oh, I've messed up connectors before but once you know how they went together and come apart it's easy. I'm working on a 79 TA and we are adding door solenoids to pop the doors open and I designed it with a 4 pin Packard 56 connector setup but the assembled plug would not fit through the door grommet tubes and was fighting trying to get it through and then finally it dawned on me, take the connectors back out of the housing, then feed each wire by itself through the grommet and place the terminal back into the housing and done. I was able to extract and reinsert the terminals without damage.

Thanks.

Henry, You need to ground out the sender wire to see if you can get the gauge to read empty or below. If it does not, then it might just be ONE issue from that test point forward towards and through the gauge BUT be aware that even if you get that working right you still could have a sending unit issue and/or with the sender's ground. To then test further you will need to do some tests like I did WITH the resistors. I used to think that just grounding the sender wire to get the gauge to read empty or below and then leaving it disconnected to get the gauge to read full or above was enough, but it is NOT. A quick search and I think you have a 0-90 ohm sender and if so, get something close to a 90 ohm resistor ( or anywhere from let's say 80 to 100 ohms) and then another resistor close to 45 ohms (or anywhere from let's say 40-50 ohms) and then another one close to 22.5 ohms (or anywhere from let's say 20-25 ohms).

@@StlNovas thanks for very detailed suggestions. Henry

@@henrytupper6959 Hopefully you will get it figured out. If not, reply back.

@@StlNovas thanks, can’t ck till later in the week.

I thought it was strange that there was no light in the controls when I got the car and I looked around and never found any socket that might not have been installed or any wiring for this light. The car was not molested and a lot of things untouched. It seems to me though there was a light available to be in there if the car was optioned out with a lighting group option ?.

When I got the ones for my car 7+ years ago they were not making the SS ones AND this car is not an SS.

Glad you found this and hope it helps you out. Yep it's been 8 years and the main under car cable has stretched and I am out of adjustment and I may just rebend the hook holding the cable under the car below the passenger side making it shorter and I should regain some adjustment again. It holds decently but could be tighter in my opinion. Good luck with your project.

You just need to go through some testing and replace or repair what is needed. Start with the basic checking the fuse for the gauge and connection points. Ideally get a shop manual and this might help out too. Don't get a chiltons but an actual GM shop manual.

I'm glad it helped you out. I also have other video's and information on a flickr account of mine www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums

I'm glad the video was helpful.

At the 0:35 mark it looks like I built that back in 2007 and was 1.25 cu.ft. per side ?.

@@StlNovas nice

At 1:06 it is a capacitor. It was installed only if the car had a radio and was used to reduce noise issues.

From what I have heard they still gather there but not supported by anyone. I have not gone yet this year but the June Memories Car Club deal at Faith Church is cancelled due to a prior commitment. If you are on facebook, join STL Car Meets as they have postings there with what is going on around the Saint Louis Area. I'm on that site as well as others like Cruisin Lindbergh. I go under user name Jim Streib

@@StlNovas Alrighty Sounds good brother.

Good catch. It was in 2016. The date was 2016-10-15 and I must have seen the 15 and put that as the year. OOPS. This was the first time I was ever there and was invited by some friends of mine from Montgomery City and Buell Missouri. I had a good time and was amazed I even got an award.