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Heiko Prints
Registrace 2. 11. 2023
I am starting this new 3d printing channel to help others that are new to 3d printing work through the same problems that I faced when I started out.
Thanks for joining me.
Thanks for joining me.
Sovol SV06 mod - Z Axis Belt- the one mod you should do!!!
Today we are taking a look at one of the most important mods that you can do to your SOVOL SV06. It is easy to do and It works great.
hardware to buy
steppers:
a.aliexpress.com/_mMusO8i
belt (affiliate link): amzn.to/3PuHXBR
pulleys (affiliate link): amzn.to/3TmUWYn
parts to print:
stepper motor mounts:
www.printables.com/model/476622-sovol-sv06-z-axis-motor-mount
pulley covers: www.printables.com/model/766592-pulley-cover-for-sovol-sv06-with-z-axis-belt
tensioner:
www.printables.com/model/568239-z-riemen-spanner-belt-tensioner
z lead screw top bearing mount:
www.printables.com/model/343400-sovol-sv06-top-z-bearings/files
00:00 - Intro
00:40 - The issue we are addressing
04:27 - My fix
11:11 - Some important details about the mod
14:25 - Final Thoughts
hardware to buy
steppers:
a.aliexpress.com/_mMusO8i
belt (affiliate link): amzn.to/3PuHXBR
pulleys (affiliate link): amzn.to/3TmUWYn
parts to print:
stepper motor mounts:
www.printables.com/model/476622-sovol-sv06-z-axis-motor-mount
pulley covers: www.printables.com/model/766592-pulley-cover-for-sovol-sv06-with-z-axis-belt
tensioner:
www.printables.com/model/568239-z-riemen-spanner-belt-tensioner
z lead screw top bearing mount:
www.printables.com/model/343400-sovol-sv06-top-z-bearings/files
00:00 - Intro
00:40 - The issue we are addressing
04:27 - My fix
11:11 - Some important details about the mod
14:25 - Final Thoughts
zhlédnutí: 2 036
Video
Y-axis Layer shift - What is going on?
zhlédnutí 827Před 7 měsíci
Request for help with a Y-Axis Layer shift. We can all learn form this. Thanks 00:00 - Intro 00:23 - What is going on? 03:07 - In Prusa Slicer 03:48 - In Mainsail 04:10 - Please help!
Z-Offset Follow Up - SV06 With Z-Axis timing belt
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 7 měsíci
Today I have a follow up on my z-offset method and I am showing you my Z axis belt setup. Here are the parts you will need to print for the z axis belt upgrade. Belt tensioner: https: //cults3d.com/:1231053 The top z bearings: https: //www.printables.com/model/343400-sovol-sv06-top-z-bearings/comments/1245119 The Z motor mounts: www.printables.com/model/476622-sovol-sv06-z-axis-motor-mount/comm...
Z Offset in Klipper - The Right Way!
zhlédnutí 15KPřed 8 měsíci
Today I want to show you how to easily do z-offset without a piece of paper. Thanks for watching Feeler gauge (affiliate link): amzn.to/3RG6ZPU 00:00 - Start 00:03 - Intro 00:21 - Genral explanation 04:53 - practical way I do it 13:24 - Lets slice something 15:35 - Test print 19:32 - Conclusion
SV06 Klipper screen - first look.
zhlédnutí 483Před 9 měsíci
Back from a Trip. Let's take a quick look at the Sovol SV06 Klipper Screen. Thanks for watching @MakersMuse @mpoxDE @TeachingTech @LostInTech3D @gerGoPrint3D
SOVOL SV06 alignment issues - how to deal with it!
zhlédnutí 2,7KPřed 10 měsíci
Let's look at some common alignment issues with the Sovol SV06. Here are links to some of the mods I did to my SV06: Klipper for SV06: github.com/bassamanator/Sovol-SV06-firmware Z axis sync belt: cults3d.com/:1231053 Z axis stepper mounts: www.printables.com/model/476622-sovol-sv06-z-axis-motor-mount upper z axis supports with bearing: www.printables.com/model/343400-sovol-sv06-top-z-bearings ...
As a German engineer, I've never been able to wrap my head around the paper method. Your feeler gauge method is immediately intuitive for me. Thank you for this great video.
Very interesting and helpful 👍😍 Since i'm migrated my Wanhao D12 ro Klipper i was annoyed with my Z-Offset setup. I was using the Z-Offset of Klipper but now i found your trick so easy and simple. I will try it soon 🤪
This was great and you explained it very simply for a noob like myself. Worked like a champ.
Glad it helped!
Great thanks 👍
Thank you! ☺️
I was searching for a good in expensive feeler gauge, and then I started trying to think of common objects with standard thickness, so that I didn't have to wait. The ISO standard for a credit card is 0.76 mm. It may not be perfect, but it's way better than a sheet of paper, and could provide a head start on baby stepping.
It's weird to me that people would come here and argue that paper is better. It's not like you're forcing them to use your method.
True
Thanks, Heiko, I also prefer the feeler gage method because it's a finite measurement opposed to just "paper". I Kept looking for the right paper, or they would get damaged or lost, etc. Once I bought my long set of feeler gages and got a PAD7 things have been much easier. Just to be clear, so the first layer should be the arbitrary distance? Can you please explain why the first layer is .3?
First layer thickness is dependent on your nozzle diameter, your print speed and also the flow rate. If you have your z offset set with a feeler gauge (example 0.3mm) then the nozzle will actually be 0.3mm above the print surface when you print a 0.3mm layer height Now you have a certain amount of filament coming out of the nozzle. If 0.3mm height is too high for the amount of filament being extruded the individual lines will not be squished together enough. If that is the case then lower the layer height. Does that help?
How is doing things the right way being ignorant? No feeler gauges are the ONLY correct way to do this.
This is by the far the most accurate way of setting Z offset. I really found this video very helpful and thank you so much for sharing. A feeler gauge definitely outperforms paper for consistency and accuracy. 😍👍
forgive me if you already mentioned it in the video, how does this mod differ to other z-axis mod you did in another video?
The belt is underneath, out of the way and doesn't interfere with anything above.
@@Heiko-Prints right, it does look better. No difference in function though I guess?
Thank you for sharing, I will give this a try. Thanks again!!
I have one of the new QIDI Q1 Pro printers and was having issues with first layer. Followed the steps in this video, set it for 0.2 initial layer (default for Prusa, Orca, QIDI slicers) with a feeler gauge and now I get perfect first layer prints. I may try checking z offset at higher temps for like ABS and see if there's any temperature creeping. Thanks for the sound advice. One of the best videos I've seen on this crucial topic.
Thank you very much for sharing, your content is really valuable for me) I did this mod today, everything is fine so far. Cost me $36 in total, ordered everything from aliexpress. I think I am almost done with my SV06 upgrades for now. OrangePi Zero 2, Klipper, printed case for OrangePi, which uses PSU fan exhaust as the source of airflow, Z-axis upper brackets with bearings, z-axis stepper mounts, 5v led lighting on a gantry, Logi270 webcam+printed mount, Tasmota controlled smart power strip, BTT HDMI 5" touchscreen, printed side mounted touchscreen case with tilt and turn adjustment, this z-axis mod. Plus some minor printed things like v-slot covers, tool holder, heatbed strain relief e.t.c. Now waiting for accelerometer to arrive)
Thank you! I was finally able to set my z offset with your video.
When you said you know only one other video where it is explained correct, i was betting you are going to say makers muse! Very good video and perfectly explained. Ich denke eine kleine grafik (schnell ins CAD geschmiert) haette noch sehr gut beim erklaeren unterstuetzt.
Hey there, i was wondering if you ever had any issues with the Y-Axis, for some reason in my Sovol SV06 the bed towards the back of the printer sits lower than the front side of the bed, i have the same issues from the Z-Axis that you mention in the video but what happens to me is different than that. I have been a little limited to what i can print or where in the printer because if i print something that uses the back side of the printer it just tends to lift from the bed or it never actually adheres to it.
Have you ever checked if your printer frame is plumb and square? If the x axis has one side lower than the other it usually has to do with the gantry not being parallel to the bed. If your y axis shows that symptom then your vertical frame isn't plumb to the bed. I hope that helps
@@Heiko-Prints i am not sure i checked that but i did something, i lifted the rods of the bed from the back by designing a similar piece of the one that comes pre-installed. I bought some parts to get the Z axis sync, after that i'll check in more detail what you are saying. Thanks for the reply!!!
What size belt for sv06?
The print surface is 235x235mm I think.
Excelente trabajo, muy bien, voy aplicarlo a mi impresora, Felicidades!, saludos desde México
Great video thank you so much! but unfortunately for me when I save and retry the process it doesnt seem to actaully save, I've tried multiple times now and after homing the offset is as it always was again. I tried to also update the factory_printer.cfg itself with the new values but its not working either. I wonder if you are able to help shine a light on this for me? thanks again for the great video
So, it sounds like you are using Klipper, correct? If you control Klipper via mainsail or Fluidd then as soon as you click save config it should store it in your config file. Try to make a video with your phone of all the steps you take. Upload it to CZcams as an unlisted video and then email me the link to it. I'll take a look.
I had to go up by 0.120 but when I save config it says “Option ‘z_offset’ in section ‘bltouch’ must have minimum of 0.0 how do I get it to save at that height?
You use the normal axis movement menu to move the z axis to whatever thickness your feeler gauge is (example feeler gauge 0.4, set the z axis to 0.4) and then you use the z-offset menu to adjust until the feeler gauge actually fits. When you are satisfied save config. I don't know without seeing it, why you would get a bltouch message. Are you doing this in Klipper (mainsail or Fluidd)?
I would like to know how you set up the fans
I am running an aftermarket board that has another fan header. It is the SKR mini E3 v3.
The Klipper documentation is clear on this. You set an arbitrary distance between the nozzle and bed while cold to account for nozzle expansion. This distance happens to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper, .100mm. When at temp (typically 200C or above) your nozzle will come very close to the bed but not perfectly 0. You don't want 0. You MUST allow for material to flow and not be sheared by the nozzle movement in order to attain proper squish. The first layer is never perfect accurate compared to successive layers, but must stick. Bed adhesion and squish is most important. Your cumulative error will fade out over a certain height.
Since the beginning of 3D printing the paper method has been around and it does compensate for expansion but I find it more reliable and accurate to heat the bed and nozzle and then use a feeler gauge. No compensation necessary. My first layer is dialed in every time without fail.
question, did you have to switch any wires on the stepper motors? when I plug in the dual shaft motors i hear a click and klipper disconects, i plug in the stock stepper motors and it works, I also tried combination of stock and new motors in case 1 motor was bad but had the same problem anytime a new motor was plugged in.
The model I bought was plug play. They used the same connectors.
Good tutorial, I didn't read to see if someone else asked this, but are you concerned about the metal feeler gauge scratching the PEI sheet? Also, do you have any recommendations regarding self-Z Offset printers such as the Ender 3 V3 KE? It's supposed to fully do it automatically. However, I've heard you cannot trust it and if you run a calibration again, you will lose the offset you performed via Klipper.
I myself have not played with those printers yet. I am not worried about scratching the pei sheet. It is very durable.
I’m rebuilding an old i3 clone, and was wondering how to do this. It used bent metal uprights which surround the lead screws, so putting a timing belt up top would be challenging. But putting it underneath would work, especially if I do the z brace mod to add a centimeter or so of clearance. Good timing!
It was actually much easier than the belt up top. I hope it will work for you.
I just started converting to a klipper printer and looking around youtube vid tutorials to where i am at, i thought this is a big channel already found out with sub 1k? This channel needs more than that. More power to your channel!
Thanks
Absolutely great tutorial! I just installed/configured Klipper on a Big Tree Tech Klipper Pad 7 I just bought to use Klipper with my older printer, a Tevo Tornado. Your video gave me the best method and understanding on how to set my Z-offset. Keep the videos coming!
Glad it helped!
Great tutorial, exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for taking the time and the work doing this for all of us!!!
You're very welcome!
I looked on Amazon USA for that stepper motor and the cost is crazy. Guess I'll have to buy direct from China.
I think I bought mine from AliExpress. I noticed the price difference to offerings on Amazon.
I've been using a feeler gauge for years but for some reason it seems that 0.05mm gauge works best for me. Maybe it's just because of what I consider "feeling resistance" but also reminds me i need to get a new gauge
hey I haven't been able to print a single thing with my SVO6 PLUS :( I already bought the guide in french from cults 3d, but I don't have something clear yet, after I install the belt, how can I adjust the distance to the bed? I'm I going to be able to move the stepper motors while the belt its in place?
I do that in Klipper but you can set the z axis height (the print volume) in your slicer software.
I wanted to ask if you ever considered replacing the motherboard. The SKR EZ V3 would drive the z motors independently and would allow for automatic calibration and leveling. That said. AMAZING solution! I am considering this but will probably consider your upper belt solution. Lastly, I love the upper mod using a bowden tube to get your filament off your gantry!
I did consider a motherboard swap for a brief moment but it is complete overkill. I would have to get a new enclosure. Run more wiring and then get Klipper configured to reliably do the z axis alignment. With a belt it just never goes out of alignment. I am pretty happy to have the belt at the bottom out of sight and out of the way. I have my full print volume back. The belt at the top ate into my z axis print volume a little bit.
@@Heiko-Prints I did a board swap on my CR10 clone a few years back. Bricked my setup, and it was never usable after. Thanks again for your videos! The bottom belt system is amazing!
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Just to make people aware, KAMP is no longer needed for the adaptive mesh. The adaptive mesh is now native to klipper.
The only thing that KAMP offers that isn't available natively yet is the adaptive purging. Just FYI
@@Heiko-Prints yup I didn't care for the adaptive purge anyway.
This was one of the very best videos on this subject (in relation to Klipper) I have come across yet! You are a natural teacher. For those of us who love 3D printing but lack the engineer/coder background, this was a breath of fresh air. Thank you!!
Wow, thank you!
Great job thanks, very straight forward, really cleared up some of the ways Kliipper calculates the offset. I'm always trying to figure out which direction to go. it just seems backwards to me. One small point, you should move the nozzle to the point your probe is probing, there could be a small difference between the nozzle and the probe. I'm using the offset in the printer.cfg and move my print head by that distance then checking.
Thanks for the advice. Cheers
this is definetly a game changer. its my new goto for tuning my z offset.
Glad to hear this video is helpful.
So the reason I've heard for the steppers getting out of alignment is from behavior of steppers. Allegedly when receiving power steppers will advance or retreat by one or more random steps. Which when you're dealing with two motors that are supposed to be in sync will cause drift over time. Your mod fixes that
Yes, it has not gone out of alignment in a month. The belt keeps the steppers synchronized.
MANY Thanks. Using the method you showed got me past the road bump in my head. Months of trying to get this right on my Ender 3, mostly interrupted by a heart attack and recovery. Ok, so it was probably more like a couple weeks or so. Hehehe. Tackled it again and once again I have the printer printing after SKR Mini e3 board and Klipper re-installs. You said the same things that others said, but for some reason (5 minutes later) it hit home for me. Keep doing it til it stabilizes!! That was the part I was failing at. Thanks again.
Excellent video. One of the best I have come across. Everything is explained in a new to Klipper manor and really helpful. A lot of videos assume you already know how to adjust the offset for example but you explain everything, thank you
Love this mod, i did it just based off one of your older videos and your help on printables. Thanks for the help and making this fantastic video good job
Thank you
Good mod. Do you have stl for the front mount for camera?
It is somewhere on printables. If I find it I post it here.
Really interesting way to approach this mod. I've been considering adding a z belt to my own SV06 but I'm not entirely convinced it's worth the effort. I don't seem to have the same gantry alignment issues that everyone else does, especially after using the axis twist calibration.
Not everyone seems to have the issue with gantry going out of alignment but if you do a bed mesh and it shows your bed sloping down on one side, it is definitely related to the gantry.
I love this idea. Need to determine the belt length needed for my SV06Plus.
Easy enough. Put the steppers and pulleys in place and wrap a section of filament around and measure the length. Good luck
@magin68 did u ever do this mod. Can u share what u learned?
@@jameshoff994 I haven't done this mod. Still on my list
The Plus is 80mm longer x&y. Would you just add 160mm to the belt you used? 690+160=250mm, no?
Thank you very much for sharing your experience, I have tried it and it works extraordinarily, my first layer has never gone so well. In 6 weeks I will attend the "3D Printer Party" in Madrid, Spain and I will try to share this method of adjustment with the 500 attendees who will bring their printers. Of course I'll give them the link to this video.
Thank you. Enjoy your Event. Cheers, Heiko
I do my offset since about year in that way, since i switched to Klipper. On Marlin i begun with this Method with a feeler gauge but it was always complicated to calculate and correct the existing value, now on Klipper it's a "no-brainer" and done in seconds. The Paper-Method didn't make any sense. Your very good Video and explanation is the first time i found something that makes sense and is the correct way to go. Very good Work! /pro-Tip: Remove that Questionmark in the Title! 🤪Even better: Replace it with an exclamation mark! 😄
Thanks for sharing. I will follow your advice
Put this into action this morning, perfect 1st. It did take a tiny bit of fine tuning as I run TAP. I dialled it down to what I thought was correct, but it needed bringing back up by 0.15 to get a nice result. The big difference is that I know that it is set correctly and is not subject to the vagaries of a piece of paper. Once again Thank you (or soll ich Danke sagen?).
Gern geschehen. Gruss, Heiko
Thank you. I don't know why this has not been spread far and wide. Calibration with a sheet of paper has never made any sense to me.