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As a German engineer, I've never been able to wrap my head around the paper method. Your feeler gauge method is immediately intuitive for me. Thank you for this great video.

Very interesting and helpful 👍😍 Since i'm migrated my Wanhao D12 ro Klipper i was annoyed with my Z-Offset setup. I was using the Z-Offset of Klipper but now i found your trick so easy and simple. I will try it soon 🤪

This was great and you explained it very simply for a noob like myself. Worked like a champ.

Great thanks 👍

Thank you! ☺️

I was searching for a good in expensive feeler gauge, and then I started trying to think of common objects with standard thickness, so that I didn't have to wait. The ISO standard for a credit card is 0.76 mm. It may not be perfect, but it's way better than a sheet of paper, and could provide a head start on baby stepping.

It's weird to me that people would come here and argue that paper is better. It's not like you're forcing them to use your method.

Thanks, Heiko, I also prefer the feeler gage method because it's a finite measurement opposed to just "paper". I Kept looking for the right paper, or they would get damaged or lost, etc. Once I bought my long set of feeler gages and got a PAD7 things have been much easier. Just to be clear, so the first layer should be the arbitrary distance? Can you please explain why the first layer is .3?

How is doing things the right way being ignorant? No feeler gauges are the ONLY correct way to do this.

This is by the far the most accurate way of setting Z offset. I really found this video very helpful and thank you so much for sharing. A feeler gauge definitely outperforms paper for consistency and accuracy. 😍👍

forgive me if you already mentioned it in the video, how does this mod differ to other z-axis mod you did in another video?

Thank you for sharing, I will give this a try. Thanks again!!

I have one of the new QIDI Q1 Pro printers and was having issues with first layer. Followed the steps in this video, set it for 0.2 initial layer (default for Prusa, Orca, QIDI slicers) with a feeler gauge and now I get perfect first layer prints. I may try checking z offset at higher temps for like ABS and see if there's any temperature creeping. Thanks for the sound advice. One of the best videos I've seen on this crucial topic.

Thank you very much for sharing, your content is really valuable for me) I did this mod today, everything is fine so far. Cost me $36 in total, ordered everything from aliexpress. I think I am almost done with my SV06 upgrades for now. OrangePi Zero 2, Klipper, printed case for OrangePi, which uses PSU fan exhaust as the source of airflow, Z-axis upper brackets with bearings, z-axis stepper mounts, 5v led lighting on a gantry, Logi270 webcam+printed mount, Tasmota controlled smart power strip, BTT HDMI 5" touchscreen, printed side mounted touchscreen case with tilt and turn adjustment, this z-axis mod. Plus some minor printed things like v-slot covers, tool holder, heatbed strain relief e.t.c. Now waiting for accelerometer to arrive)

Thank you! I was finally able to set my z offset with your video.

When you said you know only one other video where it is explained correct, i was betting you are going to say makers muse! Very good video and perfectly explained. Ich denke eine kleine grafik (schnell ins CAD geschmiert) haette noch sehr gut beim erklaeren unterstuetzt.

Hey there, i was wondering if you ever had any issues with the Y-Axis, for some reason in my Sovol SV06 the bed towards the back of the printer sits lower than the front side of the bed, i have the same issues from the Z-Axis that you mention in the video but what happens to me is different than that. I have been a little limited to what i can print or where in the printer because if i print something that uses the back side of the printer it just tends to lift from the bed or it never actually adheres to it.

What size belt for sv06?

Excelente trabajo, muy bien, voy aplicarlo a mi impresora, Felicidades!, saludos desde México

Great video thank you so much! but unfortunately for me when I save and retry the process it doesnt seem to actaully save, I've tried multiple times now and after homing the offset is as it always was again. I tried to also update the factory_printer.cfg itself with the new values but its not working either. I wonder if you are able to help shine a light on this for me? thanks again for the great video

I had to go up by 0.120 but when I save config it says “Option ‘z_offset’ in section ‘bltouch’ must have minimum of 0.0 how do I get it to save at that height?

I would like to know how you set up the fans

The Klipper documentation is clear on this. You set an arbitrary distance between the nozzle and bed while cold to account for nozzle expansion. This distance happens to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper, .100mm. When at temp (typically 200C or above) your nozzle will come very close to the bed but not perfectly 0. You don't want 0. You MUST allow for material to flow and not be sheared by the nozzle movement in order to attain proper squish. The first layer is never perfect accurate compared to successive layers, but must stick. Bed adhesion and squish is most important. Your cumulative error will fade out over a certain height.

question, did you have to switch any wires on the stepper motors? when I plug in the dual shaft motors i hear a click and klipper disconects, i plug in the stock stepper motors and it works, I also tried combination of stock and new motors in case 1 motor was bad but had the same problem anytime a new motor was plugged in.

Good tutorial, I didn't read to see if someone else asked this, but are you concerned about the metal feeler gauge scratching the PEI sheet? Also, do you have any recommendations regarding self-Z Offset printers such as the Ender 3 V3 KE? It's supposed to fully do it automatically. However, I've heard you cannot trust it and if you run a calibration again, you will lose the offset you performed via Klipper.

I’m rebuilding an old i3 clone, and was wondering how to do this. It used bent metal uprights which surround the lead screws, so putting a timing belt up top would be challenging. But putting it underneath would work, especially if I do the z brace mod to add a centimeter or so of clearance. Good timing!

I just started converting to a klipper printer and looking around youtube vid tutorials to where i am at, i thought this is a big channel already found out with sub 1k? This channel needs more than that. More power to your channel!

Absolutely great tutorial! I just installed/configured Klipper on a Big Tree Tech Klipper Pad 7 I just bought to use Klipper with my older printer, a Tevo Tornado. Your video gave me the best method and understanding on how to set my Z-offset. Keep the videos coming!

Great tutorial, exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for taking the time and the work doing this for all of us!!!

I looked on Amazon USA for that stepper motor and the cost is crazy. Guess I'll have to buy direct from China.

I've been using a feeler gauge for years but for some reason it seems that 0.05mm gauge works best for me. Maybe it's just because of what I consider "feeling resistance" but also reminds me i need to get a new gauge

hey I haven't been able to print a single thing with my SVO6 PLUS :( I already bought the guide in french from cults 3d, but I don't have something clear yet, after I install the belt, how can I adjust the distance to the bed? I'm I going to be able to move the stepper motors while the belt its in place?

I wanted to ask if you ever considered replacing the motherboard. The SKR EZ V3 would drive the z motors independently and would allow for automatic calibration and leveling. That said. AMAZING solution! I am considering this but will probably consider your upper belt solution. Lastly, I love the upper mod using a bowden tube to get your filament off your gantry!

Great video. Thanks for all the information. Just to make people aware, KAMP is no longer needed for the adaptive mesh. The adaptive mesh is now native to klipper.

This was one of the very best videos on this subject (in relation to Klipper) I have come across yet! You are a natural teacher. For those of us who love 3D printing but lack the engineer/coder background, this was a breath of fresh air. Thank you!!

Great job thanks, very straight forward, really cleared up some of the ways Kliipper calculates the offset. I'm always trying to figure out which direction to go. it just seems backwards to me. One small point, you should move the nozzle to the point your probe is probing, there could be a small difference between the nozzle and the probe. I'm using the offset in the printer.cfg and move my print head by that distance then checking.

this is definetly a game changer. its my new goto for tuning my z offset.

So the reason I've heard for the steppers getting out of alignment is from behavior of steppers. Allegedly when receiving power steppers will advance or retreat by one or more random steps. Which when you're dealing with two motors that are supposed to be in sync will cause drift over time. Your mod fixes that

MANY Thanks. Using the method you showed got me past the road bump in my head. Months of trying to get this right on my Ender 3, mostly interrupted by a heart attack and recovery. Ok, so it was probably more like a couple weeks or so. Hehehe. Tackled it again and once again I have the printer printing after SKR Mini e3 board and Klipper re-installs. You said the same things that others said, but for some reason (5 minutes later) it hit home for me. Keep doing it til it stabilizes!! That was the part I was failing at. Thanks again.

Excellent video. One of the best I have come across. Everything is explained in a new to Klipper manor and really helpful. A lot of videos assume you already know how to adjust the offset for example but you explain everything, thank you

Love this mod, i did it just based off one of your older videos and your help on printables. Thanks for the help and making this fantastic video good job

Good mod. Do you have stl for the front mount for camera?

Really interesting way to approach this mod. I've been considering adding a z belt to my own SV06 but I'm not entirely convinced it's worth the effort. I don't seem to have the same gantry alignment issues that everyone else does, especially after using the axis twist calibration.

I love this idea. Need to determine the belt length needed for my SV06Plus.

Thank you very much for sharing your experience, I have tried it and it works extraordinarily, my first layer has never gone so well. In 6 weeks I will attend the "3D Printer Party" in Madrid, Spain and I will try to share this method of adjustment with the 500 attendees who will bring their printers. Of course I'll give them the link to this video.

I do my offset since about year in that way, since i switched to Klipper. On Marlin i begun with this Method with a feeler gauge but it was always complicated to calculate and correct the existing value, now on Klipper it's a "no-brainer" and done in seconds. The Paper-Method didn't make any sense. Your very good Video and explanation is the first time i found something that makes sense and is the correct way to go. Very good Work! /pro-Tip: Remove that Questionmark in the Title! 🤪Even better: Replace it with an exclamation mark! 😄

Put this into action this morning, perfect 1st. It did take a tiny bit of fine tuning as I run TAP. I dialled it down to what I thought was correct, but it needed bringing back up by 0.15 to get a nice result. The big difference is that I know that it is set correctly and is not subject to the vagaries of a piece of paper. Once again Thank you (or soll ich Danke sagen?).

Thank you. I don't know why this has not been spread far and wide. Calibration with a sheet of paper has never made any sense to me.