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My original distributor was leaking through the seal into the cap and rotor. I bought one for around $300 from AutoZone. A reproduction of the original. It was made in Italy and started leaking under the cap within a year worse than the original Japanese from 1989. Took it back for the lifetime warranty and got a replacement. This time made in Taiwan and it's still doing well. So if you do get a new one try to see where it's made first. I'll probably rebuild the original sometime. The distributor is where the ECU gets the crank position and I think rpm so it's important to have one in good working order.

I've never worked with the Isuzu diesel engines but a search online shows a MAT sensor is manifold air temperature. Some California gas versions had MAP sensors(manifold absolute pressure) but I haven't run across one with a MAT sensor. The first thing I would do is try replacing the sensor itself and resetting the ECM. Other than that what would cause manifold air temperature to be too high? You have a turbo so if the waste gate is letting the pressure build up too much that could be a possibility but again I haven't worked with the turbo diesels. Let me know how it's going.

Do you mean in the oil pan? Like it's popping the dipstick out?

@@nicholasbottini8731 No, my problem is that the engine air is too high. I hope you understand because I am speaking to you through the translator. For example, the sound of the engine is too loud, as if you are pressing the pedal.

@@ryanu3679 you must mean the engine speed, the engine rpm. Your idle speed is too high? That could be for several reasons. Idle air valve, carbon buildup on the throttle that won't allow it to close all the way. But there is an idle speed adjusting screw. You can try screwing it in further and it should slow the idle speed. Do you know where that is? If not I can send you a picture.

@@nicholasbottini8731 Oh, this is very useful information for me. Do you have any way to contact you?

Both vacuum tubes come out below the chamber that says i-tec. One of the tubes then goes to the blue thermal vacuum switching valve. This valve stays closed when the engine is cold then opens when the engine is warmed up. I don't think mine was working so I bypassed it. It then goes from the blue vacuum thermal switching valve too a metal tube just above it that bends around behind the i-tec chamber and winds up near the EGR valve setup. It would then go into that back pressure transducer and so on. I think most people bypass all that anyway unless you're in California like I am. Well you still can but you have to put it back when it's smog time. Well anyway that was one of the lines. The second line goes to a plastic splitter. Then the two hoses from that splitter both go towards a vacuum switching valve on the passenger side fender. If you look at the five metal hoses going toward that vacuum switching valve, the two coming from the splitter go into #1 and #4. That's the way I have them anyway. 95% sure it's right. #1 controls the fuel pressure regulator. When the fuel pressure regulator has vacuum like when you're cruising it runs at about 31 PSI and when you open up the throttle and lose vacuum it jumps up to about 42 PS I think. Kind of like an accelerator pump on a carburetor. That one is pretty important to have configured right. #4 I think deals more with the charcoal canister. Probably not as important. It probably doesn't want to pull from the charcoal canister when it's cold or when idling or both. I did my best to explain but let me know if I missed anything or I could be more clear.

Thank you. I wish I had made it with better quality video. I hope it can help someone

That sounds great man. I wish I had more 4zd1/4ze1 to work on. I've learned quite a bit more since I made that video so if you have any questions please ask.

A machine shop down there called Reynolds automotive machine did the machining on my engine. That was a few years back. There was a guy named Hugh that was familiar with and had done quite a few 4zd1s and 4ze1s

Thanks! I was just working on my trooper today. I've learned a lot since I've made this video so I wonder if it's time for me to make another quick one.

@@nicholasbottini8731 I had a Jeep or Toyota truck for years and just recently picked up an 89 Trooper with a 2.6. I'm always into learning more about them, so any instructional videos would be great. Just wheeling is fine too.

Yes!! Please do. Can I request setting/adjusting the valve lash? Just picked up a Trooper that's got 60K miles since last checked and I really want to get in and check it out. I've got a manual and have checked in a Planet Isuzu. Not quite confident just yet and the weather here is crap for street parking work. Thanks for this video it was great @@nicholasbottini8731

@@getsducks727 Do you have a stock cam? I put one in that has overlap so the procedure for adjusting the valves is a bit different with cams with overlap vs stock. But I don't think that matters much when it comes to the actual valve lash. And I believe it's.008" for all the valves.

I've got a stock cam in it. Yup, .008" for both. I've got another head with a cam from Jerry Lemond and he says .008 intake and .010 exhaust. What does it mean to have a cam with overlap? @@nicholasbottini8731

Do you have the 4ZE1 in your 91 trooper? I visited a lot of Pick-n-Pull junk yards to get those type of parts. Sometimes rockauto.com will have what I'm looking for

I was aiming for .002" bigger than the bore and I was measuring the bore at about 1.732" so I probably turned it down to about 1.734" or 1.735". I had to remove somewhere between .015" to .02". The smaller you turn it the easier it is to press in but I wouldn't want to risk there being any slop so I tried to leave it tight.

Haha yeah I just have it at stock height. Going to check out your videos soon I already saw how nicely you painted your 4ze1. Next project I'm planning for my trooper is to put in an ARB air locker in the front.

@@nicholasbottini8731 The ARB unit is expensive, I bought an Aussie lunchbox, not much cheaper, very interested to see how your air unit works out. great I hope. Air hammer kicks those bushings out, try it when you do the rear end, if you haven't done those yet.

I haven't done either. Both differentials are open right now. I haven't bought the unit yet. I didn't know anything else was available besides ARB. My axles are the Isuzu axles. Did yours have the Dana? Every year I do an off-roading trip with my dad and my brother and I keep running into a situation where I wish I had at least one differential that locked up.

@@nicholasbottini8731 The 91 Trooper that I am doing a resto-mod on now came with open diffs. Corporate 12bolt rear and 10 bolt front. standard set up with open diffs. I have had 18, 1st gens now so I collected G80 LSD rear end from other Troopers. Looking for a G80 may be your quickest way to make an improvement. If you find one with good bearings then you could just do a swap in. 4.56 gearing is standard in Canada. Its all I ever see but some guys are able to find the 4.77 I have never needed them. with an MUA5, G80 LSD and an Aussie in font, I expect this Trooper to climb trees. I'll keep checking your channel out.👍

My gears are 4.56 as well. I'm in California so it's hard to find any trooper parts at all in junk yards around here. Do the limited slip differentials last long? Or do the clutches wear out pretty quick? I'll keep an eye on your channel too. Seems like you have a lot of experience

I've never actually traced it out but usually the tach gets pulses from the distributor so I assume it's ultimately coming from one of the wires in the wiring harness that plugs into the distributor. It also needs to have one wire for power when the ignition is on and probably another for ground. I think even another for when you turn the headlights on so the backlighting works. The distributor also gives crankshaft positioning to the module so there's a lot of communicating going on between the distributor and the module. If you trace the wire you might find that it Ys off to go to the module too. Just a guess.

Yeah so problem is it is disconnected lol and can’t figure out where it even is to start

@@corbinmichael1288 what is disconnected? Show some pictures if you can

Hello Keith, I'll answer any question you have to the best of my knowledge.

That sounds like an intriguing problem. Can you elaborate on how you can't get the engine to respond to the throttle with any regularity? If you gun it, does it rev up or stall? For the sake of performing tests while it's running, why don't you back the idle screw out on the throttle body so you don't have to feather the pedal.

@@nicholasbottini8731 the vehicle sat for 4 years and I found that the fuel had turned into basically turpentine... Replaced pump and filter. It fired right up and idled for about 30 seconds before it died. Next attempt it would start if feathering throttle. If you stomped on the throttle it will big and die. The only way to get it to rev up is by nursing the throttle... Could get to hold about 2k rpms and it sounds great. Let off any and it drops to idle for a split second and then dies. Cleaned TBI, and replaced parts mentioned to no improvement. Thanks for the help. I'll post vid on my channel.

@@MrBowNaxe Looking forward to seeing it. Good job on replacing the pump, that's quite a project especially if half the bolts on the tank were seized like mine were. Do you have a vacuum gauge? I've had my engine behave similar to yours when a large vacuum tube fell off the port. There's one going to the idle air control and it goes through the middle of the ITEC. Sometimes it's helpful to take off the passenger wheel and remove the rubber flap so you can inspect some of the lines from that angle. I replaced all the lines back when I put it together because I figured there would be some splits and leaks that would add up. I'm guessing any air that doesn't pass through the Mass Air Flow sensor will cause a lean condition. The Oxygen sensor will sense and the module can correct to some extent but if it's a big leak it can't. The power brake booster could be an issue too. Maybe it would be worth pulling that vacuum line off and plugging it. if the diaphragm is split inside it would be like having a huge vacuum leak. Did you check fuel pressure? Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is an issue. I think it's suppose to be 42 PSI without vacuum and 31 PSI with. It could be a bad Mass Air Flow sensor too. You could try taking it off the car and cleaning it with the cleaner or maybe it needs to be replaced. I was able to get one from Autozone but it took them 3 times to get me the right one. I didn't really even need to change I think I just wanted a spare. I don't thing the throttle positioning switch would cause this kind of problem for you because it's not a potentiometer style, it's just a 3 position switch. Idle, wide open throttle, and in between. I'm still not 100 percent sure what WOT position does. I'm guessing makes the mixture a little more rich. The Oxygen sensor wouldn't cause this kind of problem either because even if it wasn't working at all, it only makes slight adjustments to the mixture anyway. I hope you're making some progress. let me know.

were you able to see my video I posted on my page? I have somehow managed to have two accounts. I'm still trying to move clips from my phone and GoPro to my channel.

@@MrBowNaxe Yes I did see the videos. Have you gotten any further on troubleshooting? From the videos it does sound like it could be a timing issue. Have you checked that? Those harmonic balancers are notorious for slipping so you might think you're timed right but you're actually way off. If you take the spark plug out of cylinder number one and carefully put something in the hole like a screwdriver or if you want to get fancy and have an indicator that will fit in there. Then crank the engine by hand by putting a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, I believe it's 24 mm. If you don't have that size socket you could put the car in forth or fifth gear and push it enough to turn the engine but it would be harder to rotate the engine slowly and accurately this way. You'll notice at some point as you're cranking it the object you have in the hole should stop coming up and then begin going down. Go back and forth until you find the point where the object is as high as it's going to get. Then check to see if your timing mark is lined up to top dead center (zero degrees). If it's significantly off you have to make a new mark for where top dead center actually is.

My sixth sense is telling me there's a slight possibility you're being sarcastic John. I hope you're doing all right

@@nicholasbottini8731 not at all man, looks and sounds like you did a really nice job. Don’t believe everything you read on the internet, I’m not an asshole just to be an asshole, I’m cool 99% of the time... right up until some jerk off opens his mouth.

Hey Kyle, I'll help in any way I can. Do you want to have the block machined and then assemble the engine yourself or have someone build it entirely? Do you already have the block to start with? Sorry you had some bad experiences reaching out. I won't name names but one guy in particular was a real jerk back when I started my rebuild. There is a machine shop in Bakersfield called Reynolds automotive machine who at the time actually had a blurb on their website about how they rebuilt the 4zd1 and 4ze1 and added a little pep to it. But that was about 5 years ago when I saw that. You'll never get enough power to throw you back in the seat but any extra helps. I would definitely recommend balancing the internals since you're pretty much always over 3,000 RPM on the highway.

Yes. 4ZE1

@@nicholasbottini8731 how much cc?

@@Wisnu715 2559cc but mine is slightly bigger because I bored it a little.

@@nicholasbottini8731 I think 4ZD1😅

I'd be curious to see how a shop does them compared to me rolling around on the floor. It'd be interesting to see how they get the big bushings in the frame out.

Exactly the Carage work is random fix not worry like you 👍🌹

Yes I still own it. I just drove it today and I'm taking it on a camping trip soon 😁

There's a few things that could be. Maybe your idle air control valve. Once it's warmed up what RPM is it idling at?

@@nicholasbottini8731 it was the air intake tube, had a hole on the bottom, and the mass airflow sensor was cracked.

I had a start and within two seconds stall condition. After 4-5 trys it would go NP. Had an extra fuel pump relay so I popped it in and good on startup now.

Doing well, I keep it parked in the garage. A few rust issues on the roof once in awhile but I attacked them as I see them. How's your project going?

Good luck buddy, let me know if there's anything I can help with.

@@nicholasbottini8731 I had to pull the entire front axle out of the Jackaroo, to change the cv's. what a job !!!

@@fireballfireball1067 there's a retainer ring on inner CV cup. Wipe grease away you'll see it.

Sou eu do jogo

Good luck dude, let me know how it goes

It's been a few years since I've had it out, but I remember the block number being on the back and towards the top.

Good luck man, if there's any way I can help let me know

I actually have an International Harvester TD6 but my dad has two kubota's. I don't know what size work you have to do but Kubota is so dependable that it seems like the best way to go.

Thanks JR

I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching

Sorry I didn't see this comment until now. It's called Reynolds Automotive Machine.

Thank you, I'd like to eliminate some of that but they are so meticulous here in CA when it's time to get it smogged. Last time they spent 30 minutes looking around under the hood to make sure I had all the original stuff.

Nicholas Bottini aww hell sorry bout that I didn’t realize your in Cali