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Why does the right upper control arm have so many more shims on the back than the left one?

Where can we get these?

No sound sound guy

Horrible sound pops from time to time.

hahahahahahha,,,Hymen is a thin piece of tissue located at the opening of the vagina,,I think you meant ,,,heim.....lol!

These videos are very informative.

What an awesome car and great combination! Also, thank you for the informative explanation of gear selection. Very clear and to the point.

So is there a link to the RIDETECH REAR SUSPENSION kit they are talking about? I do not see it on the site...

You didn’t teach anything jack.

My 68 did not have those holes he is referring to.Also it is A MUST WIELD!..Those self tappers strip out so easily.I was super gentle on tightening them down but no way am I trusting them.Take the extra time with the cradle to make sure it is in snug.I am happy with mine and the car sits so nice.What A difference.

Tearing down an all Original corvette? Hmmmmm....

You did explain anything what were you talking about.

Forgeline Wheels are Awesome and when I ordered my wheels from Forgeline for are 65 Corvette they came out cherry and fit perfect. The way the gentleman showed in the video is great and you should be able to figure out the size and back spacing.

Sounds simple until you have a 82 Camaro to where you can't really get a wrench or a socket on it is there a special tool for it?

Wow. Chaotic narration gave me a headache.

Where can we find specs for the parts used like wheel size bs and axle overall width . looking for the same setup for my 68

Years later just found this as I am in tear down of my 68. Any chance there is a way to get a copy of “ the list “?

Great job John, Its nice to put a face to the name :D

0-100mph difference?

My Camaro is named red headed step child

Hi. I've bought a kit of this in the USA. I am from Nicaragua. I am very sincere, I have doubts to operate this equipment. I need help please. my email is jjonasruben@yahoo.com I need to contact them to help me and give me an explanation of the operation. you can. do you have Whatsapp? please help.

Moser makes some good Axels

Wow 4 years later and I’m still first to answer his question

69 was the first year for the finger latch

Does anyone know who does this kind of install? I'm in Colorado.

Why did the toe measuring bar at the rear move 1/8 inch inward when he touched the tape to it....It flexed. That turned me off right there.

I have a 1980 Z28 Camaro I need the vintage air in it

Will the auto launch feature (programmable I assume) work for a 700R4? I'm interested in a Gear Vendors for my K5 Blazer. It has an NP205 and 4.11 rear gears. The 700R4 is great, but as you know the 1-2 gear spread is a wide one. Thanks!

So for some strange reason my 69 doesn’t have those factory holes your referring to. I stripped them down to the metal and I see nothing. Any other point of reference I should be using? Thanks

Nice! What is the material of the tubes?

really appreciated this video. im building a pro touring 69 camaro, and the car actually came with a vintage air unit, which i know NOTHING about!!! after inspection, i see it is a 2003 model, hence older technology and not one im looking for in my dream car. so ill ebay that unit and order new. dumb question, but how do these units generate heat, in the traditional way, with engine water?

Is the car mini tubbed ? What are the specs on the rear axle ?

Where is the power booster?

If a guy can’t do an alignment on a modified vehicle then he ain’t worth a damn and should find a new profession

Why the "fast forward" just when you were getting to the good part? Have some "issues" getting that engine/trans up and over the core support before you ran out of height with that discount engine hoist and super-duper "tilt tool"? Suddenly a small-block Chevy isn't so small and light and compact when you try to "save time" by pulling trans and engine in one shot, is it? Makes it pretty much impossible to clear the core support if you've got the car on jack stands, doesn't it? But you need that height to be able to "flip" the engine/trans enough to snake them out, don't you? And those cherry pickers are weight-rated with the inside tube slid all the way in, aren't they? A 1000-lb hoist is only "stable" with the tube all the way in and each "notch" you slide it out costs you a good 200-250 lbs of "capacity", doesn't it? Meaning you've got "double trouble" trying to get the engine/trans up, over and out while keeping the back wheels of the hoist on the ground, right? Even with 4 or 5 guys pulling one little small-block Chevy. Its always nice to have help but that's pretty much a "1-man job" if you want to do it with maximum "efficiency". One guy doing it alone the "hard way" separating engine and trans taking even 4-6 hours to get both pulled is still way faster and generally safer than 4 guys stumbling over each other and getting in each others way and rushing to "save time" and still taking a couple hours to get the thing out. And you guys even had a nice clean, large and well-lit shop and a nice clean and straight car to work on and all the "goodies" lots of guys don't have in their "shops". Ever pull a small-block Chevy out of a 4WD manual-trans 1/2-ton pickup with a skid-steer loader "engine hoist"? Not fun but I'll bet myself and a few friends who helped intermittently probably came close to matching your time. And that was 25+ years ago before I went to trade school and learned to be a "real" mechanic. I'm semi-retired now but in my "prime" I was splitting JD farm tractors up to 250 hp and 25,000 lbs myself, removing and installing cabs myself and removing and installing 2500-lb. Deere 6125 12.5-liter OHC diesel engines in Deere 9000-series 4WD tractors myself and that was all "easy work" in the shop with overhead electric hoists. The "tough stuff" was doing final drives and axles and moving wheels and such which all required hydraulic jacks, special stands and good old fashioned "armstrong" tools to slide wheels in and out on axles with rack-and-pinion tools. And do you know what? I'd rather do that kind of stuff all day every day for a month than remove and install an engine in a light truck or passenger car and "only" have it take a couple days. Its all about having the proper tools and the proper procedures and let me tell you, that "tilt tool" and no other similar tool or even a simple "lifting plate" on the intake manifold is worth a SHIT compared to a simple chain "leveler" hooked into the factory lifting brackets on a small-block Chevy and pulling the engine and trans separately. And for the record, Camaros have a SUB-FRAME you could have dropped out the bottom much "easier" with engine and trans intact and attached to it up front and since you were doing so much front suspension work and the LS swap to boot, that would have been WAY "easier" AND "faster". Trust me, the factory workers DID install that engine and trans as an assembly but they didn't "drop" them into the unibody and subframe. They lowered the unibody on TO the subframe with the engine and trans already installed on it. You're just "lucky" you chose a unibody "muscle car" that can be "stripped" FROM the top side and that the trans and engine together CAN be pulled out of relatively "easily" even doing it "wrong" because if that were a Mopar or Ford, you'd have done a LOT more "fast forwarding" than you did for the Chevy and probably wouldn't have published any "show and tell" videos of the engine/trans removal the way I notice you don't seem to have made on dropping that LS and 4-speed in. Even with all the "adapters" those supposed "small-block Chevy" LS engines aren't really a "drop-in" and "bolt-in" deal, are they? Not even with that Boy Howdy "adapter" contraption bolted over the top of them, right? I'm betting somebody or more accurately somebodies learned that you want a contraption like that even less than you want a "tilt tool" like that all by itself because once you get down that "tight" on the engine, you REALLY have to "horse" that whole freaking engine/trans setup around by hand along with the engine hoist just to get things to "line up" and "drop in", don't you? Yeah. That's why you want CHAIN or LIFTING STRAP in there somewhere instead of "hook" to "plate" directly. If you can't "swing" or "rock" the engine at all and have no "give" there at the engine itself, you either have to move the engine and everything supporting it side to side and front to back and up and down to "drop" it in and get it "lined up" just right OR you can take a stab at moving the VEHICLE around to get IT "around" the engine. Those "engine removal super tools" always look so damned good IN THE CATALOG or INTERNET VIDEOS and work so DAMNED WELL IN THE BOX THEY COME IN. They just don't work so well in the real world and least of all with a bunch of amateurs who try to "gang bang" a project like that and don't have enough experience to see things like that "fast-forward" coming and "work around" it by not getting even close to being in that position in the first place simply by taking the engine and trans separately doing the "teardown". Amateurs, DIYers and even "engineers" look at the magazines and internet vids and ads and watch mechanics do their thing and even see pictures and video of cars being "gang-banged" being put together new or "torn down" for major work and it all looks so damned EASY and like so much FUN when the "pros" do it. And it IS or rather CAN BE "easy" AND "fun" for a PRO but rarely is that the case when the pro isn't getting PAID for the job and its a "DIY" project of their own. Some mechanics do the same shit they do in the "real world" at work in their "free time" as a "hobby" but mainly its stuff the HAVE to do rather than "want" to do and "gang bang hurry up and get it done" projects just don't happen for real mechanics very much because they know what the rookies/amateurs/newbs/DIYers soon find out. Its STILL A LOT OF WORK and its DAMNED EASY TO GET "BURNED OUT" AND NOT WANT TO TOUCH A WRENCH OR "PROJECT" WHEN ITS A "HAVE TO" DEAL AND ITS NO FUN EVEN WHEN ITS A "WANT TO" DEAL TO HAVE TO "FIGHT" THINGS JUST BECAUSE YOU'RE TRYING TO GET THEM DONE "FAST". Its also a REALLY bad idea to EVER tear into an "extreme makeover" project like that "48 Hour Camaro" that I guarantee had hundreds of man hours of labor in it no matter how "fast" it was done and how many "project hours" it took. And its a bad idea for even a "pro" who's used to big jobs and who knows that its a bad idea to "ask for help" if you don't REALLY NEED IT because sure as hell when you do THAT sometime when you DO REALLY NEED IT you won't be able to find it. For newbs/rookies/DIYers and their "buddies" the "fun" and "cool" and "beats the hell out of staying home with the old lady and/or kids" factor wears off REALLY QUICKLY about the time the "teardown" ENDS and the REAL WORK BEGINS. I'm a firm believer that "super tools" like that tilter tool ultimately START more "projects" than they EVER "finish" and mostly due to the INFOMERCIALS and ADS that go with them and make "turning wrenches" look so FAST AND EASY. Which isn't the manufacturer's fault and no doubt some do get sold and used and are appreciated and valued tools that "pay for themselves". But I'll bet any "profits" made in the long run maybe seem less "worth it" the more and more "newbs" buy them, try them and due to their own incompetence and inexperience, a lack of real "want-to" once the "hard work starts" (getting under and around all those parts and components that have to be unhooked and unbolted etc) turning into all-out "frustration" and just plain being "pissed off" once they get to where YOU GUYS "FAST FORWARDED" AND ARE "STUCK" WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO DO THE SAME and decide to make the manufacturer "pay for" his "mistakes" or at least make his life and business "hell" trying to get a "refund" on a "super tool" like that. Honestly you'd think even more "rookies" would "get" that if there were really a NEED and a real USE for tools like that they'd have been invented LONG AGO and that they're just buying "snake oil" but the thing about "rookies" is they're all about "new" things to make working on "old thing" easier and faster because clueless and inexperienced though they may be as "mechanics", the fact that they ARE clueless and inexperienced alone is enough to make them want to buy the "easy way out" and pull the trigger on a "tilter tool" like that. Especially since so many "DIYers" imagine a future where they're going to be "tearing down" old vehicles and pulling engines and trannies RIGHT AND LEFT for...EVER once they get to be "car guys" and have the "right tools" to make it so FUN AND EASY. If they only knew how RARE it is for even REAL MECHANICS to "pull engines" and how that;s been the case "forever" because generally-speaking, "bad engines" generally don't lead to "good outcomes" for the customer OR the mechanic when the "bad engine" is the CUSTOMER'S FAULT and typically a "customer" only pays for ONE "engine rebuild/replacement" in an "older" vehicle and just to get it "back on the road" and upon realizing that its STILL AN "OLDER VEHICLE" and that its "value" hasn't REALLY been "increased" ONE BIT as far as "trade-in" or "resale" value goes since PROSPECTIVE "BUYERS" EXPECT A VEHICLE AN ENGINE TO DO THEIR JOBS AND START AND RUN CORRECTLY IF THEY'RE BUYING A "DRIVER", they'd probably re-think the whole "I'm going to "fix and flip" old cars" thing.

Just bought a cheap 77 vette. Handles like a broken boat. Please help

What is the brand and size of rims?

How much hp does the engine have ?

I will Amazed if this guy is alive inn 48 hours.... he is FUCKING ANOYING AS HELL...

BOOAAARING !!!!!

am I the only one who is thinking this host is about a nut shy of a Fruitcake...

Will those new clips work on AN line?

I know this video is 6 years old, but I'm pretty sure that's not the correct way of how you measure the diameter of something with calipers

Step by step vid would be nice

will they be producing the wing, lights, side vents and vent grills? Side skirts would be nice too.

How did I just find this? I'm finishing up my 72, getting ready for the car shows.

Chad. Your Fired!

I have a 81 Corvette will that system work on mine? it does have a ac system in it.

more like alot of money

Want to build a 48 hour 1970 Nova SS 396? I have a restored lab rat for you.