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That's interesting. I haven't mixed my Contrast paints together before. There may be some more useful combinations out there. Thanks for watching.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio I do this for some colours, there I could achieve some benefits the pure colour doesn't have, so for the dark blue a bit mid blue added, or for the black a light grey, or for the dark brown a light brown, depends what I like to achieve.

No problem!

@@liberator2408 thanks buddy

If only I had piped the bag dark green for complete authenticity! Didn't know that detail. Thanks for watching.

They are great models to work on. Thanks very much.

Thanks for the kind words. I think that a general drybrush can work wonders. A warm off white will highlight just about everything. I use Vallejo Game Color Elfic Flesh for this role. I tend to do it after applying the base colours of the uniform and kit, but before metallics as it will rob them of their shine. I will often do it before applying a wash as well, and usually I will go back to tidy up white straps as a matter of course. Sometimes, I will use a spray primer in a colour that does most of the uniform for me, such as a dark green for British 95th Rifles, or a dark blue for French light infantry. I would give things a green/blue drybrush after the primer to add an easy highlight. It is hard to drybrush highlights onto one area only as you have found, so it can be a matter of choosing your battles! I don't have any immediate plans for larger figures, but for a good part of the 00s and 10s I pretty much exclusively painted 54mm sci fi figures for the Games Workshop Inquisitor game, so I have had plenty of practice in the past. Might be a nice challenge to do some big Napoleonic figures one day.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.

Thanks dude.

That's right, washed the whole model.

Thanks for watching. It's nice of you to think I'd be worthy of painting your figures. Unfortunately I can't take any commissions on for the time being. Not sure when I'll be in the position to offer painting services again!

Thanks for watching! Voltigeur plumes varied a lot. Some were green, some yellow, some had both, others had a little red! I don't think you can be criticised for choosing from those three colours. Some source paintings might have more info for each regiment, and there may be written documents from the time that could help confirm it. I don't worry that much though!

You're welcome!

I don't wash metal miniatures, but I know that some people do.

You're welcome.

I primed the cannon with Army Painter Wolf Grey, picked out the ironwork with Vallejo Model Color Black Grey. The barrel is Vallejo Model Color Bronze. I washed the carriage with Army Painter Dark Tone and drybrushed with old GW Space Wolves Grey. Vallejo Game Color Wolf Grey is a modern equivalent. The barrel was washed with Army Painter Strong Tone and drybrushed Vallejo Model Color Brass.

Thank you. After posting the question I did some research and found AP Wolf Grey primer. Thank you for confirming that. For one or two pieces I’m not sure a can is worth it so perhaps just the bottle. Great work!

@@user-mc4sq3fk5d You're welcome.

Thanks for the feedback :)

Thanks very much.

I can't really answer that truthfully as I haven't used Speedpaint 2.0 outside of a couple of metallics. GW are decent, stable to paint over, but expensive. Vallejo are less expensive, have a less blotchy finish than GW, but as I found out to my shock, reactivate when brush on Winsor and Newton matt varnish is applied! I also feel that as they have to be applied over a light base coat and contained to one area (unless you want to be constantly reapplying the base coat), they aren't perfect for beginners. Once brush control has been established they become a useful tool. I think regular acrylics will always be needed to paint when starting out. Blocking in acrylics plus a wash is a solid foundation to build from.

Thank you!

I am glad the video is useful for you. Would be nice to have more regular videos but real life is always in the way!

A happy coincidence! I have three units of chasseurs to paint (Italian and Neapolitan) for my XI corps 1813 project. I then have hussars, lancers, chasseurs, cuirassiers and carabiniers in boxes needing painted up too. Nothing quite like biting off more than you can chew.

They are a challenge. I find that if you can avoid blotches of overdone washes they come out well enough for the table, especially at three feet away!

@@CullodenPaintingStudio when ive got time to do it,im going to do an acw cavalry battle,at this point im just going to dip all the horses,be there all day otherwise!😞

@@iainthepict55 dipping can be pretty effective for churning them out.

Glad you liked it. Chasseurs are primed and ready for painting in the next wee while.

Thanks buddy

Thanks. I am quite happy that I discovered the Elfic Flesh drybrush trick. It works incredibly well on a lot of colours. Adds a nice dusty effect too.

Very nice option to paint when you need a break from oceans of white in an Austrian army too! Enjoy the painting!

It's definitely got potential over browns, reds, skin and gold I would say. I reckon barbarians or beastmen would be suitable for an all over application of Targor Rageshade.

Hello, thanks for watching. Typically when I am doing facings I will paint the facing colour and then go back over the lace with something like Vallejo Off White. EDIT: Hat trim would be a light grey, such as Vallejo Game Ghost Grey, and then the Off White.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio Thank you kindly for the advice. I am circling the black hole, that is miniature wargaming, and have yet to decide if I want to jump in or not. The fine videos on painting, such like yours, have been enourmously helpful, so far, taking some of the edge off the fear of having to start with utterly ugly minis. Speaking of mines, I understand a very important part of good mini painting is the quality of molding and modeling on the mini itself. I hase a feeling the details on minis from Warhammer (either variant) and many other fantasy or purely arts based figures seem to be very precisely molded. Many historical figures look like they are not quite as crisply molded. Is that in fact true or am I missing something/looking wrong?

@@lutzderlurch7877 that's a fair comment about the quality of casts. I think that a lot of historical figures are made by very small operations with limited resources using more traditional techniques than quite a few of the fantasy/sci fi manufacturers out there. Even the big ones like Warlord Games and Perry Miniatures are small fry compared to Games Workshop. A few companies are now producing kits that have been created using 3D software (Victrix, Wargames Atlantic) and the difference in quality is improving. There are some stunningly rendered historical kits out there if you know where to look, and some wonderfully characterful figures with charming, if not cutting edge, designs too!

@@CullodenPaintingStudio I understand the big ones design with 3D technology, then convert to CAD/CAM and machines metal molds with high pressure injection molding? What are the 'trditional' methods? Mildly interested, since I am a pattern maker by trade, so casting, foundry work etc. is still interesting to me. I am leaning towards 7YW and AWI, 28mm, British. So you say I should check out Wargames Atlantic and Victrix?

@@lutzderlurch7877 Perry Miniatures for example sculpt in epoxy putty like greenstuff, and then have some miniatures cast in white metal. They also produce lines in injection moulded plastic - these they sculpt at 3x the regular size ("3 ups") from which steel moulds are tooled via pantograph by Renedra. A lot of the smaller companies are still producing small batches of spin cast metal figures at home or in workshops. It's very much a cottage industry still! For 18th century miniatures you can find AWI in plastic, but I can't think that anyone does SYW. Perry do a comprehensive line of AWI figures. Warlord Games are another option. Victrix and Wargames Atlantic are unfortunately not producing 18th century figures.

Thanks for watching this one as well. I do have a very slow burning AWI project on the go. I have been mainly working on militia but have a few continental regiments lined up. I'll be sure to make videos on how I paint them at some point. I think Vallejo are always a solid bet when it comes to painting. Good price and coverage!

Thanks for watching. The Vallejo shades are now on my list to test out.

I quite like the CDA paints. They are a pretty good replacement for my old tall hex pots of Citadel from the 90s. Shame about these washes! Vallejo are on my list to test out now.

Just a shame that the others missed the mark so much.

No doubt that Citadel is very expensive in comparison!

It looks significantly worse than citadel and army painter so you get what you pay for lol

@@porcu12345 I think Army Painter probably shades it on value and results, so to speak!

It could have other uses for sure.

Probably the right move. Glad I could be the guinea pig for you!

@@CullodenPaintingStudio thanks for the sacrifice lol

It was interesting to test them out. I don't think they will replace the Army Painter washes I mostly use.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio I'm currently using darkstar molten miniatures washes

​@@basicminiaturepaintingoh I think I remember you sharing some pics of those washes at work on Facebook. They may get added to my list of washes to try. Also thinking about the Two Thin Coats range.

I can't really recommend these over the Army Painter or GW washes. Happy to have done the experiment though.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. I am very happy with them!

Glad you liked it.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks mate

Maybe Vallejo one day. AK Interactive are not going to appear though. Using imagery from the Holocaust in an advertising campaign for a book was unconscionable.

A big bottle of flow improver probably does the job just as well. Thought testing the branded stuff was the most fair way of doing the test.

Glad you like the video. There are loads of applications for the shades or washes, and while there probably is a "best" product for each job it's a lot of work to find it. I think that the filter effect that the GW shades gives could be very appropriate for dirtier finishes for example. I haven't handled any of the Two Thin Coats range yet so may need to look out for them myself.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio the Duncan washes are very nice imo, they’re most comparable to the original citadel washes in that they tint extremely well so give great bits of shadows to work with. Battle Mud Wash for example is the agrax earth shade equivalent and I prefer it to old citadel currently. It looks a bit murky on the palette, but I think is because it has a drop of matte medium in it because it dries so matte.

@@legiox217 that's good to know. Maybe I will seek them out for a video at some point.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio I am keen to compare them to the army painter versions now haha. They were so much stronger than the new citadel washes that it made my new formula citadel washes seem like they had no pigmentation… they do flow nicely into recesses but when you need to stain or tint something the new citadels aren’t great at all for me, though I hear applying two coats gets a similar effect. I have the “old” dark tone I believe …so I guess I need to grab a bottle of the new one now.

Thanks very much. I'm glad I'm not the only one who wanted to see the difference between the ranges.

Strong Tone is a great all-rounder. Adding some medium is my preference.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio 👍

Though I am a confirmed tight-wad and just use brown ink and Flash floor polish (which comes out the same for a fraction of the price) 🙂

@@pumbar An absolute classic.

@@CullodenPaintingStudio 🤣👍

Yeah, there's definitely a difference between old and new AP Washes. I did a video on them recently to show the changes. Overall a change for the best!

Hello, aside from the Warhammer shop, there is Ellerium Games (board and card games, RPGs, GW) and an online shop that organises some gaming days in a church hall www.simpaul-wargaming.com/ Not a whole lot of hobby shops in this part of the world.

That's a nice church kit. There is a ramshackle house as well as one in good repair that would work as well.

Thanks Phil