Video

Thanks!

She’s a sight hound, built for speed. She is a healthy weight for her breed.

Dogs ribs are supposed to show. She is more than well taken care of!!!!😮😮

@petrafried196 never heard of a dogs ribs supposed to show..to me that means they're under feed but ok if you say so

Thanks Steve. It’s good to be back 😎

Thanks Stuart. The next video is in the can, so to speak, awaiting editing. I need to get quicker at editing! It seems to take forever! The arms are a bit more involved, but getting there.

I don’t see why that couldn’t work. Painting the cylinder cover black might help as well.

Nice 👍

Thanks

I can’t see why there would be a problem

So long as it is not running 😀

It’s steel on this one, but I have hot air engines that use a standard glass test tube. They have to be cut to length, but this is quite easily done with a diamond cutting blade on a Dremel. Wear gloves and safety glasses of course as they can shatter.

@@modellingmark thank you!

Sorry, but I never checked it. I'd guess around 10 - 15 minutes?

I’m no expert, but I don’t think it matters too much. There is a risk of electrolytic corrosion, but only If the parts are wet. Steam engines are well oiled (like the builders?) so it shouldn’t be a problem v

Glad you liked the videos Martin. I’d use mild steel for those parts. Stainless is unnecessary.

I didn’t notice it when I tested it. Probably the cylinder wasn’t down quite tight. It’s fine now it’s properly assembled.

That’s very observant! It was rocking a smidge. I’ve since stripped and painted the engine and it’s seated properly now. Thanks for the comment.

@@modellingmark brilliant! What Color did you go with?

Glad you found it useful. The series is complete apart from the governor.

Here's a link to the kit I bought. Stirlingkit ship worldwide. www.stirlingkit.com/collections/diy-stirling-engine-model/products/custom-assembly-γ-type-diy-luminous-flywheel-stirling-engine-kit-experiment-toy

Thanks for your comment. You can find the details on how I set up the valve gear in Pt8. czcams.com/video/y5ch8M8VB0Q/video.html

@@modellingmark Excelent. Thanks.

Thanks Mark. Glad you enjoyed them!

Thanks Anthony. I am thinking of black for the base. Polished brass of the bearings, and perhaps brushed steel for the linkages.

Yeah, they are called links ! I had a real brain fart then! I wish snapping my fingers worked in real life too!!

Thanks Steve. I didn’t have the heart to edit that out 😊

Check the link in the description.

Just graphite in the form of pencil lead for the power piston, don’t put any oil on this. I used a drop of light oil on the displacer rod. Nothing else needs lubricant. Enjoy the model!

@@mwakelin awesome thank you

Thanks Anthony. It does go at a fair lick. It's amazing that air can expand and contract that quickly! You can adjust the speed a bit by adjusting the length of the wick, but it's not very precise.

Thanks Steve, I am pleased with this one!

Isopropyl alcohol. I couldn't bring myself to use a single malt!!

@@modellingmark Lol. Quite understandable, but had to ask!! Cheers, aka Haggis :-))

@@modellingmark Good for you, it would be such a waste

Thanks Henrik

Great question Anthony. This is only a pre-assembly as it will all come apart again for painting and polishing, etc. The bolts that can be fully tightened don't need thread lock as steam engines don't vibrate much. I.e. Bolts holding the cylinder, valve chest, etc. The ones that can't be fully tightened will have Loctite applied. These are places like the lever forks where fully tightening them will close the forks and jam the levers.

Thanks Steve. It’s certainly not a first steam engine kit! Experience is helpful! My first steam engine was a Stuart 10H machined kit, which was far easier! That was many moons ago.......

They're silly machining errors. Nothing that can't be fixed, but shouldn't really happen. I've got some hex head bolts now, which look better, but are still a bit large. I think 'one size smaller' heads will look even better.