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Good call on using one of the output jack spots for the PPIMV pot..

I'm glad you got it working.

Great they put a turret board 👍 I built a TAD Princeton reverb kit years ago. The board was with eyelet. Now everything is bent and warped with heat and humidity. I have to rebuild it wit turret.

Awesome! Glad they still make these. Been wanting one for last year or so. Now I'm ready to order. 👍

Do they do a 100 watt version?

Both transformer orientation on the chassis, is wrong

Sounds Good and i do have some advice since i just built a similar amplifier. There are some different ways to do this and remove noise. The easiest way is to use shielded wire. Jason from Headfirst recommends using shielded wire in any "high gain amp" and with the no.36 sir mod you turned the jcm800 into a high gain amplifier. I recently did the same and shielded the entire amp and it sucked. too much "tone suck" and honestly RG174 is too thin and cant handle the voltages and signal correctly. it basically burned up every coax like a filament in some spots, like a fuse. i recommend using mil spec 27500 aircraft wire. i used the 22 awg wire and its great because there is no impedance so you dont lose any treble or high frequencies. i also recommend using a hot shield. If you use a very good 8 inch Hot shield then you are Golden. I used one but it was too long. around 15 inches since i went around the board instead of under the board. some fixes will reduce hum, hizz or buzz but almost all will take a bit of treble away. You can use a capacitor of 100pF or more across the Anode Plate resistor of 100k. But do not use 470k if the anode feeds into the coupling cap followed by a 470k/470pF. That will cause some weird things to happen, in that case you have to use a smaller value. The first gain is the most important and the quietest way to quiet the amp is the miller effect. that means using a hot shield or a 10pF capacitor from the anode to the plate. The recommended value is 7.5pF from factory. But capacitors fail and may cause either a short or an open break. a short is very bad which is why i recommend a 10pF in the mixing stage. The Triode with a cathode of 820ohm and 680nF you can use the miller effect to remove the hum. If you look at the AFD100 schematic they used a 1nF capacitor across the 100k resistor at the triode with the 820ohm/680nf stage too. the DSL 100 uses a 1nF to ground from the anode of that same gain stage as well. Mesa boogie also uses 120pF capacitors across both the 82k and 100k in the Phase inverter. You have to be careful that if you use any shielded wire that you do not create any ground loops. you definitely have to do something about your ground loop hum. i recommend removing every chassis connection connected to ground. you should only have one place where all the grounds connect to the chassis. at least for the preamp section, not the power tubes but it does help if you do that with the power tubes too. my first attempt at building my amp was pretty good but i made so many problems with the ground. i read some tec hnical document on grounding which helped a lot. grounding an amp is almost an art form

Amp sounds great

Great build, the only thing I would've done differently is when you're soldering wires to any tag with an eyelet hole, you should always pass the wire through the hole, then solder it. Tack soldering to the surface of the tag will work ok, but if you have any solder joints where the solder hasn't flowed well, the wire can easily come off and if it's a critical wire (power, speaker out. etc) you could end up with a big problem.

Hi there. Let me give you a tip. Next time go with the back side jumper cables. Do not get me wrong it is not more noisy or worse going the top side. Electrically it does not matter. But it is easier for you and it makes things look way cleaner. If you look at the original Fender amplifiers with the eyelet boards and Marshall amplifiers with the turret boards you will see that they always go with the jumper cables on the bottom side. Turret has 3 places that you can use to connect things to it. Bottom on the top and on the bottom as well as the barrel. Actually it is possible to connect two parts to a barrel but that does not matter. You can use any of those places to connect what you need to connect to them. So hole on the bottom side is legal connection point as well. What makes the difference is that when you connect jumper cables on the bottom side you leave more space to connect the other parts to that turret. It is easier to make and looks cleaner afterwards. Now most of the times those jumping cables are diverse stages of the B plus. So they do carry high DC voltage so you want to be sure they will not de-solder and touch the chassis. Thing with building amplifiers is that in the beginning it is easy to make things look neat. But with every single compromise it starts looking less neat very fast. There are so many wires and parts that it quickly can start looking like a birds nest. Sometimes you can't do to much. But if you make sure that every stepp is looking neat and make sure that next thing is looking neat will bring you to a point where all amplifier looks neat. When you build first amplifiers you have to make sure every soldering connection is bulletproof. You want to have good mechanical connection so that solder tin is not a glue holding it together. Soldering tin is not providing the mechanical support. Better said it should not be providing the mechanical support. This priority leaves looks as second or totally non important thing. Though neat layout and short as possible wires do make difference. Not only that it looks better but overall there is less length of wires to act as antenna. Those are just last few percent of lower noise floor but it makes some difference. Some wires must have some length reserve or you will not be able to lift a board. But you want to prevent un necessary lengths of wire. Every following amplifier is easier to make and will look neater. Enjoy building them.

Great video brother I really enjoyed! I always wanted to build this amp but every time I look it up to purchase it’s always out out stock… This time it was actually available so I went and purchased because ur video inspired me!!! Please put a up a full rebuild so I have some references for my build!!! Keep up the great posts🤘🏽🎸#oyeahgottaloveit

Somehow today CZcams decided to offer me many how I build my amplifier videos. Your video is actually what average Joe gets when building such project. You are down to earth, admit your challenges and solve the issues. Things happen when you are not professional. I actually admire your attitude. The main thing is you made it and it works properly and you have learned things. To be honest there are so many people making videos telling complete nonsense and explaining how things work but they actually do not know it at all but they keep on insisting that they are professionals. Sad time where there are no negative counter and someone who is professional gets dismissed by such content creators by saying that the professional is wrong with no proof what so ever. You haven’t done anything really bad or wrong. If you have built 10 of those you would become better. Your wiring would become neat. Your soldering skills would get better. You would get zapped once or twice but that would learn you to work with the left hand in the pocket when the amplifier is on. You would get at least one more multimeter and better probes. Some crocodile clams so you do not need to have your hands busy. Do not feel bad about anything. Same about playing. You do not live from it and you do not claim that you are professional musician. Play for your self and with the time you will get better. For your level in amp building and playing you did good job. Plus you haven’t tried to sell your self for something you are not. So you have earned my respect.

Damn thats some nice crispy gain on tap out of a plexi style amp build. I didn't see if you used any pedals, or is this just all amp? Nice!

About have me encouraged to try and build one....don't be so negative about your playing...we all play at our own level and learn.....I'm 53 and still learning

Those jumper wires go UNDER the board not on the component side. I usually roll my AX7s for AU7s. Still plenty of volume but cleaner top end and more headroom.

Great Job!

Oh man, thank you SO much! I took the class and built a 5e3,which was awesome! So I ordered the Brit 50 and opened it up and got scared because no manual lol. This will be a massive help!

Я подписался на ваш канал очень здорово! Очень хочется побольше таких видео ! Желаю вам удачи и успехов !

Did you half your impedance when you took out two tubes

Hey man!.. Love your videos..! I have built a couple of amps now, but not a marshall yet. What amp do you recommend to build as far as overall sound/usability ?? I have an attenuator so loud is no problem. Thanks!

Classic!

Excellent video. I think I’m going to order the kit. I’ve been wanting to build an amp for quite some time, and yours sounds really good. 👍🏼👍🏼

Awesome job! Love the meticulous wire routing. When you did the initial voltage testing without tubes, do you need a load on it, or is that only needed when you have tubes installed? Also, how does it take pedals? Does an OD/Distortion pedal sound good with it? "I'm not a good guitar player". You're better than you think you are. 😁

#20_NoPeace_ever_GreatAccomplish_CoolWayToGet_thetone_MyRegards_Love_UncleDoug_Psionic_theWebHasSewMuch_🇺🇸🇮🇱✝️

Nice build and sounds great. Ive done three builds so far and i pretty much used Hoffman turret boards and doing scratch builds and i definitely learned a lot from those builds.I did a Hoffman Plexi build thst tuned really good. I love this hobby! Keep it up man your doing good.

I enjoyed this video very much :) commented timelapse is a great way :) I also like your voice and accent :)

Great build and sounds great!

Great work, i'm wanting to have a crack at building an amp myself so really enjoy your vids!

Sounds great! Congratulations ❤

What size resistor do you have to ground to check bias? And what pin do I put them on?

I believe you took out the standby switch which isn’t needed in most amps but that Marshall has a cathode follower tone stack and is solid state rectified which puts a lot of stress on V2 without standby. Eventually you’ll burn out that tube if you don’t allow V2 to warm up in standby.

Awesome! Do you have a link to that D-Lab video on the 1 ohm resister to ground you mentioned? Thanks!

I'm getting ready to do my first build with the Mojotone British Style 50W kit and this is very helpful... Thanks!

Great build and the amp kicks ass .

Good sound man is it plate EQ?

Really enjoying your channel, thanks for all the info. I just ordered the Mojo 2204 JMP kit. Wish me luck…

Good job man. Sounds good!

That's a cool amp and mod, man. I've been building for a year, and im on my 8th amp. An obsession lol. I recently watched a couple of Psionic videos on grounding. It was a bit of an eye-opener for me.

Did you have access to the technical history of Slash's amp mods to recreate or did you just fiddle with the circuits by trial and error to match what your ear heard?

Awesome job! Are you able to do just a summary list of the changes made also? I see something in the video description but between that and the schematics it's tricky for non-electricians to get a solid Idea of how complicated the mod actually was.

Very cool tone dude, i am going to try the 2204 kit in a near future i’m gonna fall back to your channel for tips on the build 🤟👋

Great job man !! That amp sounds really good. I can't wait until you do the mods !!