Video

Thanks for the advice Scott. This is what I normally do. The problem is that when the string was made, no loops were formed. Unfortunately, I can't show you a close up, as I've passed it onto a friend, as a backup string.

Thanks for your comment! I shoot 3 fingers under, but I still put a bit of tiller on my top limb, a little more than 1/8". I think if I was shooting off the shelf, it would'nt need it. The thing that quietened my bow the most, was going to a heavier and stiffer arrow with heavier points. So at 46#@30" I'm shooting 400sp Victory RIP with 200G points. This gives me point on at 30yds, at my anchor position. The shafts are full length and bare shaft tune very well. We are all different, so experimenting is the name of the game. It ended up taking me a couple of months to arrive at what I'm shooting now. I hope some of this is helpful.

I’m loving the Samick! I’m struggling to hold up the C4 with all the gear on it. Thinking about converting it to bare bow.

Thanks! Had to wind it down to around #58 to have good arrow spine.

The bow is a Samick Discovery. 17" riser with long R3 Samick carbon foam limbs for overall 62". 46lb @ 30". Brace height is 8", tiller is 1/4" positive. Using an SF Velocity rest and a Chinese copy of a Shibuya plunger. I carefully cleaned the inside of the plunger when I got it and it works fine at a low to medium spring tension. As I got closer to an ideal tune, the bow got quieter and more forgiving to shoot. Thanks for your comment, hope this is helpful.

@@archeryandstuffwithstevela3423 thank you very much and you're very welcome. I'll be tuning in

Doinker, side bar bracket.

There isn't a specific number of turns as far as I know. I think my limb bolts can go a few turns in either direction, so I guess they are sort of in the middle. If I use a draw measure my 40# limbs are close to 40# @ 28". I draw 30" and I'm getting around 46#. I wasn't aiming for a specific draw weight, I was tuning arrows. The bow seemed loud to me when I started out, but the closer I got to my ideal setup, the quieter it was. Every single variation made a difference. Brace height, tiller, arrow weight. I love the carbon foam limbs, very smooth to draw, reasonably fast, I think good arrow flight is more important than speed. I have puffs on the string and Limbsavers near the limb butts, and Velcro under the string at the limb tips. It's really the sum of the parts that gives the end result. Cheers, I hope you find something that works for you.

Hi EO1, Thanks for the kind comment. The string stop, that I am using is the 'Limbsaver Universal String Decelerator', It comes with an aluminium shaft, but I replaced the shaft with a carbon rod, cut to the right length for my bow. This wasn't difficult to do. You could probably do this with an arrow saw. I've seen similar carbon rods on Ebay. The side bar bracket I have is an old Doinker bracket, I don't think they make the exact same bracket anymore but I had a look at their page, and there is a similar one, called ' Doinker 4.5oz Mighty Mount Fully Adjustable Side Bracket'. I hope this is helpful for you. Regards Steve.

Dave Barton The Discovery is a great bow, the carbon foam limbs are very smooth to draw, and I find the grip very comfortable. My previous bow was a Black Hunter, about $300 cheaper than the Discovery. As I come from a compound background, I find the tune ability of the ILF bow, enables me to feel confident, that if I can maintain my consistency, my shots will be good. After I added some tiller to the top limb, and switched to some heavier arrows, I have found the bow to be quiet, consistent and forgiving. This has been a journey though, and sometimes my trad bow mindset, slowed my progress. It’s a completely different animal, nothing like shooting off the shelf, although, it is possible to set it up that way too. Not sure if this is helpful, I mainly shoot 3D and target. Cheers.

sturmgewehr357 The riser has a good radius on the shelf, the window is cut well past center though. I’m sure you could shoot off the shelf with it, either by building up the side plate, or using something like the Push Archery Accutune. I’ve seen one suggestion where a person cut a matching radius into the bottom of a Bear Weather Rest, trimmed off the hook, and used that for a side plate.

It's real wood, medium I would call it. So I guess you could customise it if you wanted. The back of the grip feels kinda flat, took a bit to get used to, but I really like it now. Seems to prevent me torqueing the bow. Reminds me of how they describe the John Demmer grip.

Thanks. I just ordered one.

Cool! I’d have done the same. I’m not a Samick fanboy. I just wanted to get something a little better than all that stuff you see on eBay. I would have loved to get a Dryad or something like that, but it comes down to what you can afford.

Hope you enjoy it!

@@archeryandstuffwithstevela3423 I actually went with a JC Optimus 17" ILF Riser, though I would've gotten this if I hadn't found that one

Thanks Steve, glad to know someone's watching!

Thanks for the comment Matthew! I'm loving the bow, I think 62" is the secret to smooth. I've just ordered a string from my friend Tommy, I'll probably do a video when I get it. Hope yours gets there safe man!

SuperJayman27 Thanks, I appreciate the encouragement!

Archery Geek Thanks for the encouragement. My camera was starting to creep down on the ballhead, so I cut it before the shot went to my feet.lol

Thanks Tom! Appreciate the encouragement.

Thanks, I'm very happy with how it's shooting.

It's a process, but I enjoy tweaking. I was shooting a trad bow after switching from compound. This is the best of both worlds.

Thanks again! I'm loving it so far.

www.billygoatbowstrings.com/

Archery Geek Thank you! I’ll try to put some planning into my next upload.