![Adrian Baker](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Adrian Baker
United Kingdom
Registrace 17. 08. 2006
Motorcycle videos galore. Restoring, racing, riding, whatever!
My Championship winning 1967 T20 Suzuki Classic Racer. A detailed look - inside the engine too!
I started building this bike in 1999 and began racing it in August 2002. It was pretty competitive when first completed, but in the following decade it underwent constant development - eventually becoming a real missile! I won countless races on it and several championships too.
It is fast, furious and a joy to ride.
It is fast, furious and a joy to ride.
zhlédnutí: 3 521
Video
Why did my Trials Ariel seize up? Part 4: Success! The rebuild and firing it up!
zhlédnutí 6KPřed měsícem
If you have watched the previous 3 videos in this series, you'll know what a state the engine was in when I stripped it down. It seized due to a tight bore, but when I stripped it I found that a main bearing was loose in the casing, the big end was shot, the crankpin was wrong, the crank was out of line and many, many more issues. After getting a lot of work done on it, this video covers the re...
Restoring a rusty, leaking 1929 Ariel tank with POR15 sealant. Petseal removal, de-rusting & more
zhlédnutí 840Před 4 měsíci
My 1929 Ariel had been laid up for a few years by the previous owner. A lovely bike, but the petrol tank was very rusty, and old petseal inside it was peeling off due to the addition of ethanol in petrol. It also started leaking.... To repair it was a long 5 stage process that took me three days. This video shows you how the different stages went: - Petseal removal - Rust removal/treatment - De...
Why did my lovely Trials Ariel seize up? Part 3: Bottom end woes
zhlédnutí 2,5KPřed 8 měsíci
After finding SO many problems with the top end, I had to decide whether to just rebuild the top end, or strip it down and examine the bottom end too. It was a good job that I did as there were problems here too...
Overhauling my 1967 Suzuki T20 X6 'Super Six' oil pump to replace a leaking oil seal
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 10 měsíci
My 1967 Suzuki T20 annoyingly slowly dribbles oil out of the pump. It appeared to come out of the lever arm shaft. In this video I remove the pump, strip it down, examine it and then replace all of the seals. It's a fairly easy job, but can be a bit fiddly at times. It was indeed the seal I suspected of leaking, but I replaced them all anyway. As all early Suzuki two-strokes had very similar oi...
KTM 660 SMC - The most insane motorcycle ever sold to the UK public? Pure power, zero refinements.
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 11 měsíci
The KTM 660 SMC was a competition Supermoto machine, made (barely) road legal by restricting the throttle and air box - which all dealers removed when they sold them. It's a loud, anti-social & uncompromising wheelie machine! In this video I give you a brief history of the bike, a look around it, then I start it up and take you for a thrash through the country lanes of East Hertfordshire. Let m...
Why did my Ariel seize? Part 2: Assessing and repairing the damage. Good progress made..
zhlédnutí 15KPřed rokem
After stripping down my Ariel and working out why it seized (piston clearance mostly), I've been slowly getting the damage repaired and/or replaced. Getting the cylinder honed solved the clearance problem. An excellent service from MB Honing: www.mbhoning.co.uk/ Thread repair in the head was not straightforward but with a lathe, a milling machine and a bit of ingenuity, I got there. One big que...
A thrash around the countryside on my lovely BSA - Ostensibly to test the speedo accuracy :-)
zhlédnutí 4,2KPřed rokem
My BSA speedo broke a few years back and I've had it repaired a couple of times. It works, but seems a bit slow... So, armed with a GPS speedo app on my phone and a snazzy phone mount on my handlebars, it's testing time! My BSA consists of a tuned and modified '59 A10 engine in a heavily modified '61 A7 chassis. It goes fast, and has awesome brakes to match. Had a lovely ride out through some n...
Why did my lovely Trials Ariel seize up? A top end strip reveals a litany of horrors...
zhlédnutí 65KPřed rokem
I bought a lovely 1944 WN/G based trials Ariel with a later VH500 engine squeezed into the chasis. It was a non-runner when bought, and although I got it going OK, it was clear that the last owner hadn't got a clue when attempting to build up the engine. No wonder it didn't run! I got it running nicely, but then it seized up on me
Green Laning in deep snow on a 1944 Ariel 500cc single. Utter madness, but great fun.
zhlédnutí 21KPřed rokem
Green Laning in deep snow on a 1944 Ariel 500cc single. Utter madness, but great fun.
KTM Shock linkage - Part 2. Replacing the obsolete spherical bush, bearing number 16-1062.
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 3 lety
KTM Shock linkage - Part 2. Replacing the obsolete spherical bush, bearing number 16-1062.
KTM shock linkage - Part 1. Removing, (then replacing) the obsolete spherical bush on a 660 SMC.
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed 3 lety
KTM shock linkage - Part 1. Removing, (then replacing) the obsolete spherical bush on a 660 SMC.
BSA Bantam, early D1 forks - replacing the bushes that are silver soldered in..
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 3 lety
BSA Bantam, early D1 forks - replacing the bushes that are silver soldered in..
Modifying the BSA A10 breathing system with Bunn valves
zhlédnutí 16KPřed 5 lety
Modifying the BSA A10 breathing system with Bunn valves
Riding my Montesa Cota 247 in 1977 & 1978
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 7 lety
Riding my Montesa Cota 247 in 1977 & 1978
Rushden and Wallington BOAT 37 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 430Před 8 lety
Rushden and Wallington BOAT 37 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Cottered BOAT 17 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 813Před 8 lety
Cottered BOAT 17 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
North Mymms BOAT 84 (Foxes lane) - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 9 lety
North Mymms BOAT 84 (Foxes lane) - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Brickendon Liberty BOATs 09, 08, 07 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 400Před 9 lety
Brickendon Liberty BOATs 09, 08, 07 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Ardeley BOATs 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 32, 51 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 685Před 9 lety
Ardeley BOATs 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 32, 51 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Ardeley BOAT 13 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 284Před 9 lety
Ardeley BOAT 13 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Hertford BOATs 54 and 56 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 466Před 9 lety
Hertford BOATs 54 and 56 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Great Munden UUCR 1 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 301Před 9 lety
Great Munden UUCR 1 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Little Munden BOAT 23, GT Munden BOATs 37 & 35 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 240Před 9 lety
Little Munden BOAT 23, GT Munden BOATs 37 & 35 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Poles Lane, Ware (UUCR) - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 915Před 9 lety
Poles Lane, Ware (UUCR) - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Sacombe BOAT 01, Thundridge BOAT 41 - The rideable Public Byways of Herfordshire
zhlédnutí 129Před 9 lety
Sacombe BOAT 01, Thundridge BOAT 41 - The rideable Public Byways of Herfordshire
Widford BOAT 22, Much Hadham 47, High Wych 12 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 349Před 9 lety
Widford BOAT 22, Much Hadham 47, High Wych 12 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Wareside BOAT 74 and Thundridge BOAT 34 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 210Před 9 lety
Wareside BOAT 74 and Thundridge BOAT 34 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Much Hadham BOATs 46 & 45, High Wych BOAT 35 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 236Před 9 lety
Much Hadham BOATs 46 & 45, High Wych BOAT 35 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Little Munden BOAT 22, Great Munden BOAT 39 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
zhlédnutí 118Před 9 lety
Little Munden BOAT 22, Great Munden BOAT 39 - The rideable Public Byways of Hertfordshire
Hi Adrian, great to see you are still promoting the TR/ T20 Suzuki racer but sad to hear you are no longer racing. Thanks for the plug for the frame modification work , I did quite a few back in the 90s along with countless exhausts. Excellent video and very nice work inside those barrels 🧐. Andy, Abcon Exhausts
@@andrewbacon2318 Hey, glad you watched it - and happy to give you credit. I did my own frame conversion, but hadn't finished it and one of yours turned up quite cheap, so I used that instead. I had some of your pipes too! Yes, sad to no longer race, but I had a damn good run 😊 All the best Adrian
rex did me a reprogramable boxs for my bike in the 90s for diffrent tracks, they where brill, , sad to hear he passed away, , with him and harry barlow, we got the rd 400 to 86 bhp on microns dyno, which did 10.28, at 129 mph, and as you no all aircooled are figthing the heat for road raceing, , a lad near me did fast 250 suzukis think his name was beacon, did pipes and alsorts was at hucknall
@@stephenhuskisson2230 Rex was a very helpful guy. Always had a big smile and a friendly welcome. A bit eccentric (aren't we all? 😂) and will be sadly missed.
His name was Andy Bacon not Beacon, of Abcon exhausts😂😂 and I am still in Hucknall manufacturing racing exhausts. 99% of the fast Suzuki t20s where using Fahron barrels and a fair few using my exhaust.
Rex was a good friend who I had the great pleasure to help with his racing Bantam exhausts. He was a gold mine of information whos knowledge of Bantams and 2 strokes will be very sadly missed.
An excellent video Ade. As someone who mixed his two stroke fuel at Chimay, I can confirm to his enthusiasm and insanity. 🤪
@@martinwardle6695 I remember you moaning about me asking you to do that! 😂
Interesting video, thanks
@@hullygully1135 Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it
Wow, that's the most "tricked out" T20 I've ever seen. I worked at a Suzuki/Kawasaki shop when they came out and in stock form, were the "bee's knees", could pull away from much larger bikes and we sold quite a few of them (N.Y., West. county). When U.S. Suzuki campaigned them, it seems they never came in on top against the Yamahas. I remember issues with ignition systems, needed the contact breakers isolated from crankshaft vibration, they were just not getting the job done. Liked them though and they endured on with fine small twins into the mid-70s and folks were happy with them. After more thought, I think the timing problem was from the crankshaft going eccentric at the timing end at high rpm and throwing the contact breakers into gap excursions, throwing off the timing. I don't know if they found a solution to make the T20s fully competitive but on the later GT750, the contact breaker cams were set on their own separate bearings, isolating them from what the crank run-out might do.
@@whalesong999 The points are fine for a road bike, but yes, if racing it they just aren't up to the job. The T20 crank is pretty good, but can't be revved above 11000rpm or it starts to twist. I forgot to mention it in the video but mine has had the cases line bored to take a later 4-bearing RD crank with larger o/d bearings and a centre labyrinth seal. TZ350 rods and bearings replacing the RD ones 😁 Yup it's special 😊
Very, very nice, thank you. Hugely impressed with your cylinder/piston/headwork! During the early seventies I raced a T20 at the professional level on half-mile dirt track in California (Ascot Park). When I bought the bike the engine was in a Sonicweld rigid frame and was fitted with Keihin remote bowl carbies and the Suzuki racing kit cylinders (bridged ex. ports) and heads (we called them 'Grant' heads/cyls, perhaps because Ron Grant was selling them...?). Anyway, first thing I did was ditch the Sonicweld for a Trackmaster frame and mount a pair of 28mm Mikuni round slides. Large expansion chambers, both on the right side, no mufflers. I also ran Wiseco pistons which had two very thin rings (replaced after every race). Magneto on crank. The standard primary gears had a slot ground down the middle, perhaps to reduce friction/side loading? No brakes at either end, compression releases only. First time I rode it scared me to death! Incredible power. In those days, first-year pros were restricted to 250s and most guys were riding singles. My Suzuki was so fast that when I rolled up to the starting line I just looked to see if there were any Yamaha twins in the race (TD-2s or TD-3s), if not, none of the guys on their singles stood a chance against my T20. As I recall, however, there were few, if any, other T20s, at least none that were in the hunt. The Yamaha twins were faster than my Suzuki though. So many good memories... Cheers!
@@jiyushugi1085 Fascinating story - thanks for sharing 😊 Back then the T20s were faster than almost anything, yet the development that riders do now, like on mine, are a huge step up on those early ones. We're at the limit really for an old air-cooled piston port engine. Such a fantastic original design 😊
Nice. I much prefer the bikes from the late 60s through mid 70s to today's "crotch rockets." Curious though... are the head gaskets copper, and if so do you re-anneal them every so often so they seal better or is that even necessary? I know the pain of giving up riding your favorite. I rebuilt a Yamaha DS7 and almost cried the day it was sold in 2007. I haven't ridden since.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne One head gasket is copper, the other is an original T20 aluminium one. Different thicknesses to help get the squish right. Sad about the DS7. 😥 I'm still riding, but now only on bikes with a sit-up riding position. Need pain killers too sometimes, but have to keep on riding!
Gotta correct you on something Adrian, those fork sliders aren't Kawasaki S1C, the S1C used a TLS and were fabricated from steel and chromed. I've done a few T20 centre plugs from bare castings. Great walk around and great bike!
@@crozwayne Interesting. I really have no idea what they are from, but I was told by a bike mechanic that he recognised them and that they were S1C ones. The mystery deepens... 😁
@@t20racerman the later disc braked KH series had alloy sliders, perhaps he was mistaken, I know coz I had an SIC in 76
Brilliant, very interesting thanks
@@Richard-h9c Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it 😊
A really fantastic bike an effort, a shame that you can't ride her anymore, I gave up motorcycles at 76 for similar reasons. Ane comment. I dont understand how it can still be called and raced as a T20. Virtually nothing on it is T20, lots of it aren't even Suzuki. Surely it's a T20 based special. What a shame that you didn't let us see/hear it run.
@@tonycamplin8607 A lot of it is T20, albeit modified. Frame, swing arm, rear wheel, engine externals, gearbox etc. OK the front end is different, but racers modified or changed those back in the day too. I'll hopefully be able to video it running in a couple of days time...
Hi Tony, with regard to racing a T20, they are eligible to race under CRMC rules, against genuine period racers of 1967 which included Suzuki TR250 and Yamaha TD1C, of which there where few. To build a competitive bike, period aftermarket parts were allowed , of which those with deep pockets built nice fast bikes. If your where at the Manx GP in the 90s, there were 30 - 40 Suzuki T20s entered in the lightweight race of various specs, some not even resembling a Suzuki. I think Adrians bike is spot on, has in the right hands can win races but still retains the replica look. .................... Look at the replica Suzuki XR69 used at previous MGPs (bandit engines ??) nothing changes !
Pity we didn't hear it going. Shit that pulls some rpm. In the 70's to the 80's I ran a T500 in a TQ Midget car (New Zealand speedway) man did I have that fully worked running methanol. Still got the motor under my bench. Couldn't kill it, got some really good power out of it and at night meetings with the cool night air it was on another level altogeather. Miss those days and the SOUNDS.
@@broughxtreme Nice engine the T500. I'll start the bike up this week (sorry neighbours...) and will try to video it running 😁
You forgot to mencion the wheel rims Adiran are they the Spanish Aluminum ''Aacront's'' and culd you of fitted ''Reed Valves'' on the cilinders....? Nice bike ❤
@@julianv.5848 There was a lot I didn't mention - it would have been too long and boring if I'd gone into too much detail about everything 😂 Not sure on the rims, but yes, probably Akront ones. I picked them up 2nd hand. One might even be a Dunlop actually thinking about it... 🤔
lovely bike that lad remember talking to you at darley moor uld nipped one of the pistons up but sureu got out four next race sounded lovely hard to let it go but it will get used what its meant four next video please
@@markaddy53 Yes, they do that - getting the mixture right is a fine art. I never liked racing at Darley much - but that might be because of consecutive crashes in the final morning practice session, then in Race 1 (on my TZ) and then race 2 on my T20 😜
Lovely machine Adrian, it'll really leave a hole in your heart when it's gone
@@bsimpson6204 It really will. So sad to sell it, but then it saddened me every time I went into my garage and saw it there collecting dust. It needs to be loved AND used 😊
I've never been a big fan of two-strokes (I had several clapped out two-strokes as a kid which may have contributed a lot to my distrust of their reliability !!..) but I can always appreciate great engineering and tuning.. She really is a great looking bike and I hope the buyer gets as much fun (and racing success) out of it as you did.. Sorry to hear that like me you've joined the Arthritis Sufferers Society (or 'ASS' for short..) I was told I shouldn't 'play Rugby or ride a motorcycle' but I just couldn't give up riding bikes !..
@@jjrider6758 Thanks for that 😊 I'll keep riding my bikes until I physically can't, rather than because I "shouldn't" as bikes are such a large part of of my life. Ok, racing is over, but as long as I can ride, I will - even if I need a few painkillers now and again! 😁
Amazing bike. 9 to 13,000 rpm 2-stroke sounds intense. No wonder you isolated the case. I bet you couldn't feel your hands.🤣
@@cratecruncher4974 it certainly is intense! Vibration was very high pitched and not really noticeable when riding it - it did though break cases and frame tubes. They weren't designed for those revs and that powers output 😊
I’ll race it for you if you fancy 👀
Adrian, will you go and watch the new owner racing it?
@@stephenhewitt5835 He's based in the Czech Republic, but yes, I'll try and get out there for a meeting. Never been to Brno 😊
👍 that would make a great video. Keep the shiny side up.
I’m not well up on Ariel singles, is it a Red Hunter? Looks like that motor’s been assembled by a brain dead gorilla… what else has been bodged??? Were I you, I’d feel inclined to source another barrel & piston or maybe a barrel needing bored, bore it with a well matched new piston, reassemble. There’s always the chance too of small debris from the seizure finding its way into where you don’t want it, like the oil pump or other minor oil galleries feeding working bits like cams, rockers etc. Stripdown, clean thoroughly and reassemble. Youlll feel better while riding it in the )knowledge that it’s as good as it might be. I’d be inclined while the motors in bits to check the entire bike for other boneheaded spannering, especially for overtightened assemblies. Might save you from getting roadside stranded on “a wet Wednesday afternoon”. And if you know the clod that perpetrated these abuses on a lovely old motor, maybe have “a wee word in his ear”….😂
@@SirBeauJangles Hi there It's a 1944 War Dept WN/G model, with a '49 VH500 Red Hunter engine fitted. Yes, it was butchered inside. It's back together now, but the bottom end was worse! If you watch my next videos in the series - parts 2 to 4 you'll see how bad it was. Nicely sorted now though 😊
@@t20racerman Thanks for the reply. Nice result by the above - I'll find your catchup videos now.
Can you please say how to bleed the pump using the big brass nut .....do you need to kick the engine over ...not sure
You don't undo the big brass nut - no need. There is a small LEFT HAND THREAD bolt on the body which if undone, acts very well as a bleed. just loosen it off and wait until the oil runs out then nip it back up. Thats all you need to do. Then start the engine and hold the oil pump arm fully open. Blip the throttle a few times and you'll see the oil and bubbles run up the oil feed pipes to the engine. That's it 🙂
Thanks so much very grateful
Hi Adrian, I tried to send you an email via your website but it didn't work. I have a question about the Suzuki and was hoping to get your advice. Please let me know the best way to reach you. Many thanks, Richard
Hi Email me - t20suzuki@gmail.com
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😀
@@phils2180 So good to have it back running 😊
Given how relatively simple and easy this engine is to strip, I'd finish the head work, get it back on the road for Summer, then do a complete strip over next Winter. Even though the bottom end sounds fine, you may well find something that "isn't quite right" or not not quite in spec and then your looking at possibly more machining work and/or sourcing and waiting for new parts, all of which = more time off the road. If the bottom end felt or sounded bad then it's a no brainer, strip the whole thing. JMO
@@phils2180 I'd considered it, but in the end stripped it. Good job I did - loads wrong inside. I made video parts 3 and 4 to show how bad it was, and the finished bike after rebuilding. They are both on my CZcams channel 😊
Worrying to much mate that be alright for your steady riding surely. Nice ride nice bike! 🤠
@@user-abob-1800c Thanks, yes, lovely bike to ride 😊
Is it a chronometric speedo as mine goes up in steps but never wavers about , nice A10
@@nounoufriend1442 Yes it is, and mine never used to waver around either 😕 I sent it for repair once and was told that there was absolutely nothing wrong with it 🙄
Very interesting Adrian.
@@flmulcahy Thank you. The bottom end was worse than the top end! ☹️
Having you speedo calibration a little slow maybe a good thing. It means you can drive to the apparent speed limit on your speedo without actually speeding. Also the odometer will register distances a little further than actual so you have a little leeway on your service intervals.
@@Gribbo9999 They have to over read (or be exact) by law to prevent 'accidental' speeding offences. Mine is a little too slow though for my liking.
Perfect example of why the Japanese wiped out the British bike industry...
A great video Adrian. Yes the tapered pin is for the VG, the VH should have a Parallel pin, that's why it didn't fit the flywheels, what engineer fitted that. That's exactly what my last 2 Alpha big ends looked like after about 3000 miles and 5000 miles, in 2 different engines. The notch in the footrest boss is to stop the footrest from slipping round when your body weight is on it, and needs to be fitted before the cases go on, the big washer welded to it is to give the footrest tube support to stop it bending downwards. Yours has been modified by the same person that did the Big End, who fitted the cases and clutch first, and couldn't be bothered to take the cases off again.
Worrying bearing quality 😕
@@t20racerman Not sure if you found my Ariel big end video, but the type of wear to one side of the pin is identical, and this happened to 2 brand new Alpha units.
My bike was used for trials competitions many years ago and the modified footpeg, and cut out inner timing case, were, I think, so that the gearing could be changed quickly
would you say that the 660 have alot of vibration and if so is it only when you drive fast or allways?
@@slavcat5790 No, it was surprisingly smooth throughout the rev range - as long as it wasn't struggling at lower revs.
I bought mine new for £281.1.10p I still have it. I think I will get around to start it again after having to fit new T250 big ends and pistons. The oil pump/ cable fitting is the only thing I need now but I refuse to pa 60 dollars for a secondhand one off eBay.
@@GWAYGWAY1 Definitely worth getting it going again. You can make your own connection with a bit of ingenuity - I've seen a few different ones that worked ok
It's a wonder that engine ran. Plenty of grief and head scratching. Fun though, had the tee shirt. Sounds well. Enjoyed the video.
@@eyuptony Yup, it was a right mess inside, but oddly, ran really nice before it seized up on me. 🤣
Impressive stuff, 2nd kick start well smart, bottom. end work never nice and easy,, great vids, very real world, thanks for sharing your journey, learnt a lot, cool bike, glad you got it sorted. I always inspect and dump my first start up oil asap
@@BobtheYob-up9sv Thanks, glad you liked it. 😊 I'm pleased it's finally back together - it took far too long
What a great video. Excellent camera work and editing, a pleasure to watch with all the lucid explanations and demonstrations. It just goes to show how things can be hacked together in ignorance and operate just long enough to find a new home where they'll be given the love and attention they deserve. Hope you get many happy years out of the resurrected Ariel trials bike.
@@sandymacpherson9400 Thank you for your kind comments. It was indeed an abused bike, but it will now get looked after properly 😊
Very nice.
@@oldbatwit5102 Thank you
Iv`e just replaced the o rings on the lever arm and cover, measured them and ordered off eBay. My 1966 model has an E clip to retain the shaft where yours has a bronze bush. Looking at your shaft it has the groove for the E clip ?? Very helpful video, Thank you.
@@Dylan-xp6pk glad you found it useful 😊
@@t20racerman Yes, your content is very useful when a novice like me attempts this type of job. Keep up the good work it is much appreciated.
perhaps move the microphone away from under your chin if you can’t lower your voice you sound like you’re talking to someone in the next room lol
@@LeeTanczos You could turn the volume down... 🤣
Thanks for that, I remember the super six coming out when I was a teenager, I loved it then and still do now so if it doesn’t sell I may have just the spot for it. Good luck with the Ariel, smashing bike and excellent workmanship, good to see
@@jimatt147 Thank you. Glad you enjoyed my video. 😊 Might have a buyer for my T20 race bike - would love to keep it, but it should be on the track. I'll shed a tear when it goes 😢
Nice one! I like the way you owned up to forgetting the spark plug. I haven't forgotten the plug before but I have forgotten the plug lead (D'OH!). Lovely bike, those old Ariels are beautiful.
@@williamnethercott4364 I make honest videos, with no pretence of being an expert, and forgetting to put the plug in made me laugh - so I had to share it 🤣 Yes, lovely old bikes. I'll do a video on my 1929 Ariel in September (busy before then) - a guide round it followed by a ride. That's a lovely bike to ride too - and surprisingly practical for a 95 year old bike!
"oh no there's one other thing..." Great story! What fun 😊 persistance pays off - thank goodness for experts ❤
@@bristolfashion4421 Thank you. I was very lucky to have a great Ariel Owners Club branch in Herts, full of VERY helpful engineers and Ariel experts.
Great video! Felt the ‘family commitments’ comment might have something to do with your daughter and Granddaughter 🤣
What gave you that idea... 🙄
gorgeous looking bike...nice vid... nice sound.
Thank you. It's a joy to ride too. Looking forward to a bit of green laning on it. 😊
My Uncle had a magnet in a thick plastic bag cliped to under the oil tank lid and suspended in the oil, he remove bag from tank roll bag of magnet any metal particles came away wìth bag all was cleaned and put back. He always said it gives you a idea what the engine is doing inside.
Good idea. There is no oil filter on these engines, just a thin metal gauze above the oil return pick up. Regular oil changes helps
Hi Adrian, I do think you were absolutely correct with your decision on torquing the head. Fancy forgetting the plug 😊. I have a Thompson T20 Super Six for sale, always been a race bike, never registered, where do you think I should advertise it, I thought maybe Classic Racer. Thank you in advance. Regards, Steve Cooper
@@jimatt147 Easy to forget... 😂 T20 race bikes have plummeted in value recently, sadly. You could try Classic Racer, but you'll find it difficult to move on. The class has all but disappeared in racing, so people aren't buying - as I've found with mine. H&H auctions might be interested in selling it, but then there's fees of 10% plus VAT. No easy option, sorry
That brass bearing sleeve night not be as long-lived as one made out of steel.... Those flapping chains... can you adapt a modern plastic cam chain tensioner system to stop the flapping (an older Lada engine spring only cam chain tensioner might be of help)
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk The sleeve is a tight interference fit and holds the bearing very firmly so won't have the opportunity to wear or come loose. As for the chains, as long as you keep the tension correct, they are fine as designed. It's only when neglected that they cause a problem. On my BSA I've replaced the primary chain and dynamo chain with modern belt drives. Much better, and quieter too. 😊
Just enough 🤕
great job lad keep up the good work
@@markaddy53 Thank you 😊
You saying about the different setups for advance and retard levers reminded me of a Furry Teeth run (you were probably there) on my BSA A7SS. On that bike the cable was tight for full advance but that day the centre screw for the lever must have worked loose. The lever kept working its way to retard and the bike would slow down. As usual I didn't know the route so had to keep up. I ended up doing the whole ride to Wales or wherever with one hand on the throttle and the other on the advance lever!
@@Phiyedough Ha ha, the joy of Brit bikes. 😊 When I first got the Ariel I tried to set up the timing assuming that the mag rotated clockwise, and full advance was loose cable. I couldn't have got it more wrong! Suffice to stay, it wouldn't start! 🤣
Awesome chap
Result! 👍 Nicely done squire
Thank you