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@@Apphus144 so your vehicle's detecting a misfire on cylinder number 6. First step is to rule out spark plug or ignition coil. You can swap it out with another cylinder and see if the code moves to the cylinder you took the plug and coil from. If that doesn't do it then try looking at the fuel injector. There's always a possibility of an isolated vacuum leak as well but you would probably have a lean code also. If all that fails you can run a compression test on the cylinder to see if it's low or high or you can pull the valve cover off to look for mechanical damage, like what's in the video.

Funny you should ask, the first building we started in that was oil stained black and it made it really tough to see well under the cars. We got this building and painted the floor in 2005. The light reflection is still pretty good. And it's still cleans up pretty well. We've got plans to have it completely redone in the next few years with an even better system. I do still remember the first time we dropped a rotor on it. It was kind of like getting a dent in a new car😂.

It can be a collapsed lifter or a bad "lifter cassette" or a flat cam. No mater what the head has to come off to check the lifters and after the cam is inspected it may also need to be replaced. :( If the engine has a lot of miles, like over 150K now may be the time to replace the motor especially if there was a lot of fine metal particles that have got into the whole engine. I have seen many successful lifter replacements and cam replacements work and get a few more years of life from the motor.

If the filter is clogged up enough it could cause a lack of air flow. If the air volume is good then it is probably being caused by something else.

Hi, If you do not see the door with the one bolt after removing the lower panel it has probbly not had one yet and needs the kit that we mentioned. You only have to do it once to have a door for future filter replacements. The kits show you where to cut the factory plastic. Many people have a shop do their first one then they take over replacing the filters after that.

Glad you made it home safely.

The Data trouble codes need to be read and recorded first. Then follow the factory diagnostic flow chart to determine what is causing the message you are receiving, then make the required repairs.

Replace a bad gear or the whole motor?

I hear ya 😃 try the easy stuff first then go for it ☺️.

That's right on the edge when they started switching over but I believe it's going to be an electric system. The easiest way to tell is to see if it has the pump on the passenger side under the hood just above the tire

Hi and thanks for the comment. Yes and No. We have learned that different parts of the world have different options for cabin air filters. Many of the US models either came with them from factory or like you mentioned the owner has to add the kit by removing a plastic cut out area and adding a door and the first filter.

Great question and there are a few details that will help you narrow down the possibilities. First, is this an automatic or manual transmission? Second, at what speeds is this occurring? Third, does the noise change in tone,pitch or tempo based on speed and RPM ,one or the other or both speed and RPM. How long has this been happening? So what could it be? Synchronizers in the 3/4 gear or bearings in the transmission. Tires, wheel bearings or something in the rear end that is more speed dependent and it just so happens to be heard in 3&4 gear just to name and cover a few things.

@@Craigs_car_care so I watched some more videos and it seems like the ring and pinion are most likely worn and need to be replaced, it happens around 40-55mph and it’s only makes the noise when I press the gas, when I let off it goes away, good thing I have some 3.73 gears to install soon

Thanks for the update, did this noise start after the rear end work? The noise from the drive side of the ring and pinion can be from pinion depth not being correct or ring backlash that needs to be adjusted or has too much slack.

@@Craigs_car_care I bought a used rear end and it’s never been opened so the ring and pinion probably going bad

Yes, it runs for just a short time then should release until the AC head pressure gets high enough for the fan to come on or the engine temperature reaches 220-230 for the fan to come on.

@@Craigs_car_care I noticed i don't have either relay in my compartment.. mine is a 2010 jeep grand Cherokee limited 5.7

@@johndeloach503 Does the fan work at all? Does it come on if the AC is on and runs for a while? Is the engine overheating?

@@Craigs_car_care it works. the fan starts once I crank the jeep, it does not overheat it's one or two lines before the halfway point( temp gauge)

@@Craigs_car_care I looked in my fuse box, I don't have relays in in the relay spots high fan or low ran

2016- XC90 2.0L 1969 CC L4 Drive -E is all we have on file.

Can you sent to me the link of O ring ?

It sure could be. Easiest thing to do is have both batteries tested. Even weak batteries can cause some weird stuff to happen on these cars today. Also we're noticing weaker batteries are causing a lot of strain on alternators and shortening their life.

😂😂😅

We put this out as a show and tell for the factory. Other people saw and asked us to update it to put it out there so others could get some ideas to fix their own. We're not offering a service to do this as what we did is not good enough to charge for.

This is a show and tell only. The how too videos are over an hour long. These CZcams shorts only allow 60 seconds before cutting off. Thanks for your feed back, I forwarded this to CZcams to ask for the shorts to be made longer.