Video

@@Composiclean thanks for reaching out. Yes a resistor in line is it. Here is a high level for the fuel gauge if it’s reading too high. czcams.com/video/djNpkScm2pQ/video.htmlsi=5YqFtm5qV0jg0_-d

@@reygomez323 I believe the newer 180 comes dual voltage (110/220). The older one is single voltage (220). I have the older one and it’s been great.

@@ColeRamsey-j2q I believe it was in front behind the grill. Should be a second connector on the front headlights that’s not being used. The factory light switch powers that wire when in work light or hi beam position. I ran a wire to rear of machine to power all four work lights. Here are the work lights and headlights I used. a.co/d/2Xb218L a.co/d/2otGxVB

@@darrenmas found the connector for it thanks I appreciate it a lot

@@PhilSkaar unfortunately the shaft seal is only accessible from inside the pump. The dust seal is.

@@kencecil697 for the cutting edge it’s the same process I used for the top edge. I think I did another video on the sides. Let me check for it.

@@kencecil697 czcams.com/video/PO-ImfYhiPI/video.htmlsi=bEvRjEJ3wHxvK1DO

How was the quality? I need to get a whole new plastic set

@@jacksinkowski227 thanks for reaching out. Tilt steering latch is LVU16996 and power steering wheel guide, you need two of these LVU11559. If your tilt steering lever is broke then you also need LVU11566.

@@darrenmas thanks!

Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately the hours aren't available/recorded in the controller on the 4000 series machines. Best thing is to ask seller and if you feel they're trustworthy then go with it. I've owned many 4000 series machines ranging from 500 - 2500 hours and when maintained properly they all run/operate the same in that hour range. Just all around great machines.

@@darrenmas Thanks for the quick response! I don't think the current owner knows the actual hours sadly; it looks like it may have been owned by a local municipality and is now for sale "as-is" at a reseller. It runs and the loader works but it isn't moving(ehydro), that's how I found your channel, I was looking into the problem and it seems fairly common. Doesn't look in the best condition, seats all ripped up, hood in pieces, rusty bucket, worn tires, but if I can get it for the right price it would be a good project. A couple years ago I bought a 4600 with around 3000 hours from an old golf course. It spun a bearing and I ended up rebuilding the engine, replacing all the plastics on the front, new seat, etc., which was a fun project. And my grandfather has had a 4310 since new in 2001 and it has been nothing but great to him. (He has actually been having problems with his fuel tank gauge for awhile, and I just saw your video on that, so I'm going to have to reach out to him now.) Have you heard of opening the cluster up to replace only the hour meter? Thanks again!

@@goldenmom334 should be a drain bolt at bottom of axle area. I usually drain a little and check it

@@darrenmas 👍

@@user-ux3ye8fu3v any codes flashing on the code light?

@@darrenmas long short short short

@@user-ux3ye8fu3v that code is “simultaneous command from forward and reverse”. The controller is receiving voltage from both forward and reverse pedal at same time and machine won’t move because it doesn’t know which direction is being pressed. Most likely one of the potentiometers is bad or loose. I would recommend testing each one. I have a video on how todo this using a volt meter. Let me know if you can’t find it.

IT IS FIXED! Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate you so much. Your video you recommend gave me a great starting place. I found the potentiometer under the tractor for the forward and reverse pedals. I checked both of them like the video shows and they both read good. ..... well I felt silly when I realized this whole time my pedals have just been getting sticky and they werent returning like they should when I let off the pedal. Fortunately where i needed to lube up is under the same cover as the potentiometer!!! I put some knocker-loose on the and let it sit. Everything is freed up and working well now. I feel silly that it was something so simple but thanks to you I got it and saved lots of money. Thank you.

@@user-ux3ye8fu3v that is great news and glad to hear it’s all working again. Have a good one 👍🏻

you can adjust the float on the sending unit. take the fuel cap off and reach into the tank with a long pair of needle nose pliers and pull up (gently) on the float arm. When pulling up if you can get the gauge to read full then you can adjust the float arm. The float arm can be adjusted by removing the sending unit from the tank.

yes, they should work the same way if its a 4x10 machine

yes, will take another video this week for you. The pump that powers the PTO on/off valve is the implement pump (on left or drivers side of engine). The pump that powers the wheels is the hydrostatic pump and the hydrostatic pump solenoids control the flow/direction (forward/reverse).

@@bigeddiem3745 thanks for reaching out. I can create a new video on the fuel gauge. Will create in the next few days and let you know.

@@bigeddiem3745 czcams.com/video/djNpkScm2pQ/video.htmlsi=AkDFJPzrT77jd5Va

@@tradhunter5976 no more code. Changed plugs and that was it.

Awesome

Thanks for reaching out. The B100 is a 4x2 (2wd) machine. I've had mine for a few years now and never got stuck with it. The thing is an all around construction beast for its size/class. Absolutely love this machine. Good luck with your purchase. You will be very happy with it.

@@darrenmas thank you so much for responding. The machine is missing both its pumps. Doing research and debating on it.

Steering wheel puller or gear puller is what you want to use. Sometimes they pop right off. Others you need to work it a little.

Thanks and thanks for reaching out. Love the L48. Such a great machine 👍🏻

Nice I believe the allmands have a Dana rear end. Should be able to find parts off the shelf at most automotive parts stores. Good Luck 👍🏻

Thanks for reaching out. First check the code that is being thrown when the tractor stops moving. The sensor that is causing the machine to stop will throw a code. If it’s the seat sensor then you can jump out the seat sensor and see if the problem clears. If the code is for the forward pedal sensor (potentiometer) the test the min max voltage. I have a video on how to test the pedal potentiometer. If sensor that is throwing code test good only then I would recommend the controller reset. Machine will not move until you get all the way through controller reset procedure. If you stop half way through and try to exit early machine will not be usable.

Thanks for reaching out. Here is the link Black Boar (66010) ATV Rear... www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCMKVXE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I hear you. This is one of those fixes that people put off. Honestly for the money and a little time so worth it👍

@@darrenmas any idea on price for the parts? im in Cnada , so itll be like 30 percent more than where im assuming this was filmed, in the usa...

@@cb7pwn about 15 dollars www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-LEVER-LVU11566_p_16450.html

I just read the comments you made to others, did you ever upload the 4300 video regarding the brakes?

Thanks for reaching out I have a 4200 that’s sticking on the right side. I’ve been meaning/trying to get to it. Will make some time this week. Will let you know when video is uploaded.

@@darrenmas I look forward to it, thanks again.

Home Depot had it for 799 and I used a 10 percent coupon.

Love this welder 👍

Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend www.greenpartstore.com/

Did a little research and the JD 3520 has a diagnostic mode which allows you to troubleshoot the error code. I would recommend getting a service manual and I bet you could fix it. The 3520 uses a similar controller and sensors so I bet you could do a reset/relearn if needed. Definitely start with service manual.

Sure np thanks for reaching out. Yes or if you have backhoe you can raise rear tires with stabilizers. Use loader to raise front. For the hydro pedals relearn step you need all wheels off ground.

What do you mean by this comment?

Thanks for reaching out. Here is the link to my L35 playlist. czcams.com/play/PL7_OYAazeB-d27k8ZvthHaORBNEq5dmyB.html

Glad that the videos are helpful and thanks for your feedback. You can get a replacement hour meter. You would have todo some soldering to remove/install the old/new meter. I believe it would work, but never tried it. The part number of the meter should be on the back of the meter. I would just google the part number and see what you find. I bet it’s just off the shelf part/meter that is readily available for much less. Hope this helps…

We bought ours on Amazon. Here is the link Black Boar (66010) ATV Rear... www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCMKVXE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My bad, I made one of this machine (4300), but must of never uploaded it. I have a 4200 that needs it done on the right side. Sticking really bad whenever I use the brake. I'll make a video of that and upload this week. Should be same procedure for all 4xxx series machines.

I have 4210 an same problem with the brake. Thanks for your videos. Very helpful!

Hi, Darren. I've owned a 4310 since new, and now probably have 1800 hours on it. I say probably, because the battery died dead at 1500, and when I replaced it the hour meter reset itself to zero! I've had the brake issues, the front knuckle leak, rear leak, and the mounting forks for the loader spread enough to require 3/16" shims on both sides. Oh, and some brush reached up and yanked a couple of wires out of a connector, shorted out, and blew the main $1000 circuit board. But the issue I'm dealing with these days is the rockshaft lever. It got stiffer and stiffer over the years, and now is totally locked up, making the three-point totally unusable. I have the seat frame off, and it appears the cross shaft is somewhat free until it disappears into a casting on the left side of the tractor. Would you know if this tube is the actual piece that carries the motion across the tractor, or is there another shaft inside that tube? Have you ever run into this problem? Thanks, -Dave Polmon

@@LongBinh70 Hi thanks for reaching out. I believe the rock shaft lever just operates the lift/lower valve. I’ll check the shop manual today and get back to you with with what I find out.

@@LongBinh70 sorry I couldn’t tell from the shop manual pics what the internals of the rockshaft look like. Were you able to pull it apart?

If it started happening after battery died or was removed then it probably needs a controller relearn/reset. I would check the voltages on the reverse potentiometer and if they are normal do the relearn/reset on the controller.

@@darrenmas sorry, I meant it’s flashing those codes during the relearn on the controller. I bet the potentiometer is bad. Thank you for tip . Linkage had broken and got it fixed up , must be potentiometer or something

Seriously. Stupid shit

Sure I can help. Did you get through any of the recalibrate/relearn steps? When your in recalibrate/relearn mode the code for the sensor that’s next will flash. I have a video on the process with a 4210. Same process for the 4410.

czcams.com/video/0n33cWXEE6o/video.htmlsi=QkfVyS6U8f3giAa9

czcams.com/video/sK1eBlWhx58/video.htmlsi=qHMhDPWKBj_LA1GN

@@darrenmas I did not try any recalibration steps. I was under the impression that blinking codes do not cycle all the time. Rather that it blinks one error and only after I clear it the sequence changes to the next in line error.

If it’s a reputable dealer and they tested the controller it’s definitely possible. With that said in my experience with the 4x10 machines I’ve never had one with a bad controller. Typically if you have a bad controller the machine won’t even move. A movable machine that is doing bad things like in your case has always been a bad sensor. potentiometer on one of the hst pedals or motion match on the fritz. I would recommend putting motion match on quick stop position A.

Its the switch to the left of the controller fault code light. Put it in the forward position to activate quick stop (position A). See if that makes any difference.

It is on quick delay

@@barrypederson3688 next thing to check is the potentiometer voltage when pedal is released. The HST pedal potentiometers are about 5 volts when pedal is fully depressed. When released the voltage should immediately return close to zero. If you release the pedal and voltage stays at about 5 volts for a few seconds then the potentiometer is bad. I have a video on how to check the voltage on the potentiometer without unplugging it. You don’t want to unplug them when key is on, since that will confuse the controller