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Edwin Dirnbeck
Registrace 5. 09. 2009
2013 Chevy sonic 1.8 p0171 mystery solved free saved $2800
Here I’ll explain what is wrong with the plastic intake manifolds it is a factory defect on the Manifold I will show actually how to fix it for free I was quoted $2800 to change the intake manifold because supposedly it Hass to come out the bottom of the car removing the starter alternator and driveshaft It can easily be fixed with epoxy for free This is a very complex manifold that has a rotary toning valve that is about 2 inches in diameter and 10 inches long the defective part is hey stop which controls how far the tuning valve can rotate back-and-forth ever Denteley in-service it gets weak and leaks vacuum could be caused by backfiresOur age are just poor design that is my thought
zhlédnutí: 205
Video
HF tire The Duck must swim backwards and counter clockwise
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed rokem
This is my highly modified version of the harbor freight manual tire changer. If there are enough views and requests I will make a second video with some dimensions and suggestions I hope this helps the automotive community thank you Edwin Dirnbeck
Polaris Compression release broke fixed for free final video number four of four
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 2 lety
This Is the most important of the videos on this stupid compression release that Polaris has sold it shows you how to alter the spring to make the compression release actually function it also shows how this thing works and how to reassemble the spring and the cam and the shaft the Polaris manuals are very confusing don’t Explain this at all
Polaris Compression release broke Fixed free second of four videos
zhlédnutí 16KPřed 2 lety
This Is the second of four videos where we analyze and fix the broken compression release on a 1998 Polaris 500 sportsman
Polaris Compression Release broke fixed for free Third of four videos
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed 2 lety
This Is the third of four videos on how we fixed our 1998 Polaris 500 compression release that was broken
Polaris compression release broke fixed free One of four
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 2 lety
This Is first of four videos that shows how we analyzed and fixed the stupid compression release mechanism on my Polaris 500 sportsman 1998
PolarisSportsman 500 primary clutch one way bearing fixed fast and free
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 2 lety
PolarisSportsman 500 primary clutch one way bearing fixed fast and free
Precision abrasive saw cuts through the vise
zhlédnutí 46Před 2 lety
ThisIs my precision abrasive cut off saw that I made about 12 years ago.
GolfCart reverse hitch trash can train hauler
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 2 lety
GolfCart reverse hitch trash can train hauler
Let See what’s inside of an electric rebar bender
zhlédnutí 199Před 2 lety
Let See what’s inside of an electric rebar bender
Stupid electrical connector on Chrysler wheel bearing
zhlédnutí 34Před 3 lety
Stupid electrical connector on Chrysler wheel bearing
Variable frequency drive breaking a resistor installation
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 6 lety
Variable frequency drive breaking a resistor installation
45 second install lathe tailstock digital readout
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 6 lety
45 second install lathe tailstock digital readout
Tail stock digital readout 45 second install
zhlédnutí 179Před 6 lety
Tail stock digital readout 45 second install
Thanks a lot for this video, when I got my new one in I accidentally pulled that piece out and couldn’t figure out how it went back back together, but now I know, great video
His a right way to do it and how I can know the right way
Definitely are not supposed to put grease in oil on a clutch especially where it makes contact with a belt always a bad idea
Wow! You knocked it out of the park! I had give up and carried a extra battery to start mine. But after your video and explanation I was able to get the compression release to work. Thank you.
P
Why don’t you just put another turn on the spring to increase pressure? That’s a lot easier than trying to remodel the spring, and will probably provide more tension than your un-coiling method. Do you think that would create too much pressure? Or?? Thanks
if you pre-wind the spring you will get way too much return spring tension and your compresion release will not release at idle.. (you can hear it stuck on tapping the valves open when it should be released no suprise this will also effect your abilty to idle and probbly does wonders for the cam follower and the Exhaust valves) the spring return force needs to be very light , that is why he is making such a point as to slightly unwinding the spring so that when you install it will provide just enougth tension to return the compression release back to the dowel pin , But as soon as the machine starts , the cetrifical force on the weight must be enougth too overcome the spring and rotate the rod into the release position. I made the mistake of adding prewind to the spring and had to take it apart again , as it would not disengage the compression release untill I got over 700 RPM
@@brianperkins6121 I’ve learned that the info in this video is entirely wrong. If the spring is modified to increase tension, the engine will run but it makes a hellish racket because the ball beats against the cam rocker. But when installed as per factory specs / spring, it works fine. In short, this video is full of it IMO.
@@russchastain9375 The issue I have experenced myself is replacement cams where the compression release's spring tension was incorrect out of the box,, the spring tension has to be just barely strong enougth to return compression release weight to the dowel pin , otherwise , the compression release wont kick off after the engine starts , tweaking the spring so that it just barely provides enougth counter torque to return the weight to the dowel pin , '"but" not so much counter tension that the centrifugal force acting on the weight will dissengage the compression release at idle , its quite a delicate ballence , I have also had issues with very weak return springs causing the compression release to not work and the starter being unable to overcome full compression .. the design polaris used is very prown to even tiny issues causing issues with its operation .., his point is correct you cant wind a turn onto the spring its return force will be to high , you have to unwind the spring adjusting its tenson if you run into an issue with its counter torque being to low to spring back the weight to dowel pin , you cant wind an extra turn onto the spring the return force torque will end up being so high the compresion release will refuse to disengage and you will also hear the racket it makes in the process.. you should not have to mess with it at all it should just work but in my findings that has not been what I have run into ,,
❤ A Christmas Miracle 🎄 ♥️ Thanks to God 😊 It was his Perfect Timing , So Amazing
My ball fell out
Good info video sucks
Shuch Elegant Simplicity. 😎 And Dead On Accurate.
You do know what happens when the spring is too tight I hope !
If the spring exerts to much force , you will have the opposite issue , the compression release will be stuck on at idle , this will cause issues with idle and in many cases you can hear it tapping aka bumping the exhaust valves open. if your increase the engine rpms and this goes away your spring is exerting to much return force,, the spring return force needs to be very light . .
The camshaft looked chewed up on the lob the bike will begin to lose power
How many turns did he tighten the spring ?
I guess take it out and toss it .
Thank you for the excellent video. The pictures and your slow methodical approach make things clear. I struggled for years with no compression release. I had no idea the solution was so simple.
Thanks!
Looking at buying a 97 Sportsman 500, and "supposedly" this is its problem. I was looking for info on how it works, and how much trouble it is to fix that. Doesn't look too bad! Thank you for this video. (I had to download it, and rotate it 90 degrees clockwise to keep my head straight ;-) ) . New subscriber!
need a video on a 02 325 magnum comp release...
I like your video, can this repair on the Spring be done without removing the whole cam from the motor?
Yes
I had polaris rebiuld my top end for bad cames now the starter dont want to turn it over and it will ripe your arm off trying to pull start it they told me i needed a new starter ill never go back ther again
wow...they obviously didn't set the decompression assembly correctly. That's a real unprofessional move on their part. A magnet on the cam lobe and putting the spring on like oem works perfect. Doing it like the video shows will add to the tension it takes to release the decomp. Definitely don't want to add tension.
Thank you, sir!
Why won't it start with the pull starter? Does the pull start still pull hard even with the compression release fixed on the cam?
Necessity is the mother of invention. If I don't have at hand something that will work I will make devise or concoct something that will do. Because I can not in the outback of Australia that I can just go to the local part supplier or machine shop to grab something.
I have done some similar mods to my HF changer, but I didn't build the big top mechanism yet. I would be interested to see your design in more detail. I have the duckhead simply bolted to the end of the long bar from the HF setup. It works, but needs more guidance than the setup you have. I like the idea of the standalone bead breaker. I modded the stock bead breaker on mine, but it certainly has its shortcomings.
This video made me sub!! Nice job man.
Very practical and useful mods makes for a great working machine. Nice. -Doozer
You sure do like to talk
Good job
When does a fuel pump , pump coolant ? Not being sarcastic Mabe you have info I can use, please respond. Mabe that’s why my radiator keeps exploding
i just checked the price $5,500 !! not $1,500
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Can this repair on the spring be done without removing the cam?
Can this be pulled and adjusted and reinstalled without taking out the cam?
yes, take the cam cover off on the side of the head. You'll have to take the valve cover off as well and use a magnet to pull the decomp ball forward so the pin slides all the way in. the cam has a hole in the bottom of the lobe where the ball is made to stick out for the decomp of the left exaust valve.
I got a question I just tried this and now the rod won't go all the way back in what did I do wrong
I pulled the rod out rewound the spring and now the rod stops about a half inch front seating back all the way in
Your check ball is down in the hole, turn it over and see if it’ll fall back down
thank you I tried than and it did fall back down all is good so if anyone ever tried this no way no how can that ball fall out I found out ur good but thanks for thr response
You have to take the valve cover off and use a magnet. Stick the magnet on the cam lobe that has the decomp ball hole so it pulls the ball towards it then the pin will slide in. It's on the exaust side so take off your gas tank and front plastic.
This would have been a great, useful video IF .... I'd been able to see & hear what you are doing! Next time, please recruit someone to work the camera. Thanks anyway for trying.
I would half to agree with you he mumbles around for 5 mins can’t see the part then you can’t tell what he doing I was hopeful for a good video explaining this but i just took stills of his close ups to try and tell about how it goes . Also did anyone see how wore out that exhaust lobe is !!!
Just picked up one of these and got it running again after years of sitting in pieces. Went to bed that night thinking routine maintenance tomorrow. Next day no start. I checked all the usual things but found nothing. I watched your video and checked mine, Bingo thanks for the help
Good information. Thank you. But please but a camera tripod. 👍
I was wondering what brand is this? We have an oxford precision rotangle and we're trying to find something similar and this is the closest I've seen so far
Great idea. I would be afraid the grease and oil would fling out of that hole and make the belt slip.
Was this causing a no start issue mine will crank half a turn then will have to stop and hit starter button again .. I found my spring was bad waiting on a new one .
Thanks for the video. It was good to see the resistor value you use. Just a bit aside. It's not a good idea to run the lathe without the chuck jaw under load, tightened against a workpiece or themselves. The centrifugal force and vibration can cause the jaws to come loose and fly out.
You are totally wrong @ 1:33 when you said "the ball is completely safe, it is never gonna fall out, it's trapped in there for life". I repaired a 2010 sportsman 500 in May of 2022 and that actuator ball had indeed came out of the camshaft!! AND AGAIN, I said it in your other video and I will say it again, YOU ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO WIND THE SPRING TO TIGHTEN IT!! Polaris specifically states that on the instruction sheet they send with a new OEM camshaft, or the compression release will not disengage when the engine starts!!
First , I start my video by identifying MY POLARIS 1998 500. Polaris changes designs like a high schooler changes dresses. The ball in MY POLARIS IS TRAPPED FOR LIFE. SECOND ,MAYBE just maybe by 2022 polaris MIGHT have learned how to make the spring. Obviously they are STILL MAKING DEFECTIVE CAMS .EBAY has page after page of venders selling REPLACEMENT CAMS for polaris. I am a tool and die maker and spun my cam in my lathe. The spring disengaged at 500 rpm, the idle speed is around 800 rpm.This is perfect. Edwin Dirnbeck
@@ed631941. Engine rpm is measured at the crankshaft. The camshaft rotates at half the crank speed. If the compression release stays engaged until 500 rpm on the cam alone then the engine would need to be running at a minimum of 1000 rpm to get full compression. That’s too high. Cam speed is not the engine idle speed.
NOPE, you don't wind that cam spring to add tension to it!! It clearly states on the slip of paper that comes with a new OEM camshaft "DO NOT PRE-WIND THE SPRING ONE FULL TURN OR THE COMPRESSION RELEASE WILL NOT DISENGAGE WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS". "IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT SPRING PRESSURE IS VERY LIGHT". I just replaced a camshaft in a 2010 sportsman 500 in May of this year 2022, and the centrifugal weight acted the same way as the one you showed before you wound it and I never touched the spring. But I totally agree on the part that the polaris "engineers" should be kicked in the n#ts for making such a mickey mouse setup. I am in no way a polaris guy for MANY reasons like that.
Then what’s the fix? My 2001 is getting 125psi on compression
@@thegoodstuff-gs3slwhat's wrong with 125 psi of compression? You mean it's too much and the starter wont spin the engine?
Can that cause the starter to not spin the engine as it should? Or just the pool start?
@@thegoodstuff-gs3slyours probably isn’t closing the spring is loose maybe overheated and took the temper out .
good job I apreciate the video thanks
This is the only video Ive found adressing this problem thanks for the info
That is a great video guys!! I love it and I’m sure someone out there will really appreciate the time you took to make it. That is what CZcams is all about for me.
I have a 1959 International Harvester bus and I'd love to add power steering. Do you have any ideas? How do I find out what device to use and/or what sort of mounting hardware will I need to create? I'd appreciate any links or sites to visit on this. Thanks
Can I have your email? I want to know the number part of the control box on EBay I want to install a EPS to a 1940 Ford
Good demonstration! Thanks for sharing.
Love it Ed ! ! !
What size and type of packing is used in the pump?
Have you found out yet?