Video

;)

Good times. You can replace the pulley itself if the alternator is good... last time I checked, they were around $95

Slowly but surely.

Thanks!

I've seen that done and it works well

Its been a few weeks. With that said, the area has had very little rain over the last few weeks. Should be fairly dry.

Its a 4.0 gas burner... gets 93 octane from the pump.

@@NotSoGrandGarage For some reason I thought it was a diesel and you ran it on WMO....

@@jeffgreen977 not currently. It may be one of these days though

This filter sits sideways... And the original wix does have an ADV.

@@NotSoGrandGarage In that case, yes, you'd want anti-drainback valve.

amzn.to/3MpsL6T

The '97 F350 SHOULD be a ball joint setup from the factory. If its got king pins, it was swapped in which wouldn't make much sense. The ball joint dana 60 is just fine. With that said, Dana, Spicer, or Moog would be my choices for replacement ball joints.

Thanks for watching

You can always fill through the vent hose.

It's 1/8" npt.

Probably not. You could use the vent hose though

It all burns. I dump everything in my storage tanks.

Someone actually making kits with the side bushings now? Usually, those kits only have the rear bushings

Thanks

A lot of fab work and time. You can use the 4l60.. but it won't live long in stock form. I'm running a 4l80e. Custom motor mounts... Torsion bars from a 3500hd to support the weight... Etc..etc.

I've not had any experience with them but I'll say the stacked cone style industrial centrifuges work extremely well .. they are just typically out of most people's price ranges and could require 3ph power.

Wasn't mine and we weren't replacing anything else. It wasn't hard to drop without pulling the shafts.

@NotSoGrandGarage yes I looked at another one and your method was the best. Great video thank you.

Straight from O'Reilly's. Janky for sure

Not a bad idea at all

Nice. I love the ones in my Tahoe with projector housings. HUGE difference

So far, they seem decent. We haven't had any rain and such yet but we'll see how they do here soon.

No changes to anything really. Everything has been working well without issue. As for sourcing oil, your best bet is small shops (that don't use it for heat) and / or farmers. Collection highly depends on your setup and what you are capable of storing. I typically pick it up by the tote.. 275 or 330 gallons at a time.

I like how the lights are super bright and blind everybody. We have tons of people in my town with them. Im personally going to chrome wrap the back of my vehicle so they can see what i see.

Gotta love d-bags that don't know how to properly adjust headlights to prevent blinding oncoming drivers.

I now have Auxito LEDs in the Tahoe. STUPID bright. I've got a video on that too.

Last time I changed the oil, I filled it through the vent hose. Only issue is you can't see how full it is so keep track of how much comes out.

They are solid little jump packs for sure. I've got several of them now.

He just wanted to know what I was doing. Probably EPA

Could be fun

Should work fairly well

I sell them. I became a WVO Designs dealer after a couple years running their stuff. As or right now, they are the best in the game at this price point. www.notsograndgarage.com

I used to do it that way... its been a decade or so at this point. I'd flow through a filter bank down to around 2 mic. The issues there are the filters are not typically absolute rated so they miss half of the particulate of the rated size. They also don't remove water. What engine are you planning on feeding? Some are a LOT more forgiving.

Thanks

When you remove the pump top bolts, the top will slide forward a bit (towards the front of the truck). When you put the cover back on, it needs to sit slightly forward and then slide back a little. If you try to bolt it on straight, it will bind on the internal linkage and potentially cause a runaway condition. Its always wise to have the air cleaner off and a plank of wood that can cover the inlet when working on an injection pump. If a runaway occurs, block off airflow and it'll shut down without damage. It WILL spit/sputter and rev up a bit when it first starts as the pump is full of air but should calm down pretty quickly.

@@NotSoGrandGarage thanks for your reply. I guess you showed that pretty well in the video; I’ll be sure to install the cover while it’s forward a little from the pump and have it drop in with no force. How far forward from the bolt holes should it be? I have the NA 6.9 with stock air filter housing, and the hose to the housing deleted. There’s a flat on the inlet of the housing that should work to choke the engine, I’ll test that before doing anything.

@@jadinzack9271 it isn't very far. You'll see it when you remove the top. Maybe 1/8" or so.

@@NotSoGrandGarage thanks man. It looks like you have the top forward and towards the right a bit too(when looking from the front) is that true?

Side to side doesn't matter too much. Line it up fairly straight and forward so when you sit it down, it has to move back to line up the bolts. That should be it.

Check the playlist. As for the centrifuge, it's the WVO Designs Extreme. You can order one from my website... www.notsograndgarage.com

Beats no air filtration at all. Had to make something work as I didn't have the stock air box. With that said, it'll change at some point but not sure when.

Multiple IDIs for over a decade. My flatbed has never had the injectors out and is on the original 200k+ mile pump also. I've never had a permanent failure caused by my fuel. Now in my Cummins and my bus, I've had issues with injector coking causing smoke and power loss. Pull injectors... Clean the tips manually and back in they go... Back to normal. The 6.9 will drink oil just fine.

​@@NotSoGrandGarage hey man thank you the old 6.9 idi I have I love the old truck. Thank you so much for the reply. Would filtering it out with a Caterpillar 1R-0749 fuel filter or cat oil filter 1R0716. The oil I have at the shop has everything in it. I can't afford a 1,000.00 centerfuge

​@@NotSoGrandGarage love your setup

​@@NotSoGrandGaragewish you a thousand likes man!! I'm from Bamberg sc!! Hey here's an idea move here I need a neighbor and a fishing buddy!!

@@JefforeySiegel I'm a fan of SC. Nice area for sure. I'd hate to think of moving again but never know what the future holds. Thanks for watching bud

Peace of mind and I'm in no rush typically.

Yeah they can be a bit thirsty but it'll always do what ya ask of it.

....15 years deep... I'm good. I have a whole playlist and a business dedicated to it. Thanks for the input though.

thanks

Something like that. Lol

Lol.. I don't think I'd want to run that.

Not really. I get 520ish miles on a 38 gallon tank... On fuel that costs me $0.10/gallon to produce.

Depends.... I've got a playlist that goes into detail on it all. After setup... $0.10/gallon or so to make.

Nice. I've got a whole playlist dedicated to it if you haven't seen it yet.

@@NotSoGrandGarage I'll check it out.

With the way prices are fluctuating.... No better time than now.

@@NotSoGrandGarage it's 3.49 a gallon here in TX .I have one with a 4bt 1946 stylemaster sedan disc brakes all 4 wheels. Need to finish brakes and wiring harness. The other one is a 88 short wide. With a 97bt .I was pushing it a little hard now it has lots of white smoke.

@@MiguelMartinez-gd1sv sound like fun projects. Yeah it's over 4/gallon here again. Was down to 3/gallon a month or so ago

You could... but it's pretty close to the ground. In my mowing area, I'd be concerned with breaking it off. Now if you are talking a normal lawn, it'd probably do just fine. Then again... the engine oil drain is a plug too... so it doesn't really matter that much.