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Jeff Thanks for posting and please send plans to ppeters721@hotmail.con

Respected sir your work is amazing and i appreciate your way of teaching in your videos. Great way of cutting pieces for picture frame we learned from your video. I noticed in the video your miter saw dust hood system which i got fascinated from i searched in your channel any video for that. My request if you could please make a video regarding that i will be grateful to you. I am struggling for my miter saw dust collection and did a lot of research but till now no tangible solution i got. Please let us learn from you regarding miter saw effective dust collection. Thanks a lot.

Very nice project, thanks for sharing.

is that a spiral bit or a compression bit ?

How did you get injured you didnt even touch the blade????

Great video and exceptional slider. One thing, though, you can't have too many tools..

Yes you made a better version where can I get the plan?

Looks like a fun hobby as in going out to yard/estate sales to buy up drill bits. If I could implement changes in such a system it's a ratcheting system for the drill bit, or a system that you would hear & feel/get positive feed backs f clicks like a gun scope. So you would do the math on how many clicks you need to do, lock it down and then grind.

Thanks

Thanks

Great videos!!!

Pretty slick. Simple, no-nonsense, and looks good. Thanks for sharing, the only other one I found was a fancy hand carved week long project (for me), maybe the Carpen-Tak channel.

Is that the back of the frame you are showing to us (the camera) so your mounted picture and glass would sit in the "rabbit" but you measured the frame from the inside???

Just receiver their Stealthstop miter gauge that comes with one Stealth stop. My one SS slides in the track fine when flat, but when you flip out the tab to use as a stop, it basically locks in place and is almost impossible to move. And then the micro adjust absolutely will not move. I don't think they should be making these out of plastic. Just hard to get and hold tolerances in plastic. Particularly on something that a needs precision. I think I see the problem but wrote them and waiting for an answer before I do anything to modify.

Two reasons: 1) spiral bit cutting up tends to lift the piece and the router bites it at the bottom 2) you seemed to rest it and slightly move it in the direction of rotation of the bit I would recommend that rather than touching the bit then start to move the piece, you establish the movement way before the bit has touched it

This is brilliant! I was absolutely thinking about doing same thing instead of paying $700 for a light

giant legos

Thanks

Jeff enjoy your projects and videos!

I am thoroughly enjoying watching this process. To be honest, I have been a subscriber for awhile but did not not take the time to indulge- now that I’ve watched this process I plan on going back through your content as I not only enjoy your thought process but can gain from your problem solving. Even if I can’t afford the same tools or accessories, I might be able to adapt in some way. I respect your thoughtfulness in how you enjoy your craft.

Great stuff!

I created an L shaped adjuster with a nut imbedded in the wood and a wing bolt.. They are attached to the bottom of the track. They slide in and tightened into position. Each full 360 degree twist of the screw advances the fence about 1/32. I made one for the and right side of the fence.

I’m in Minnesota. Near Woodbury. Interested in the bench dogs.

They're 8.69 on Amazon for me. I want to try the 6060 Pica BIG Dry Construction Marker.

They are great kits. I also have the large crayons for dimensioning lumber.

Love the box great job. I have to try and make one. Ty

after watching this long winded video i could have order one from amazon and already had it.

So, in early 2024 what conclusions have you come to, was this a workable idea?

Doesn’t the use of a virtual grid and studio-designed lettering eliminate the need for physical centerline marks?

to error is human, not to really screw it up you need a computer

nice setup

I will have to try that

Wow, well done good sir.

I hate to be 7 years late, but I found this video looking for a recommendation for a resin (brand name, etc) that is used to finish a shuffleboard surface. I know a guy that is fixing to take an old one and strip it down and refinish.

Like they say "If it's stupid and it works, iit's not stupid..😂

I ran into the same issue and fixed it the way you did. There's a reference to this in the forum in the Do Not Section of workspaces: "Set up your workspace beneath lighting that is liable to change substantially (i.e. outdoors with passing shadows) or with low-quality LED lighting". Glad you fixed it.

It's a camera system. It has autoexposure compensation, but with such bright direct sunlight, it can't properly process the digital sensor chip information to 'see' the dominoes. Just reduce the brightness/contrast by blocking or partially blocking the sunlight.

Jeff, Shaper user here. Yes, block the light. The Shaper only really needs the light it outputs. As soon as you showed your board I knew it had to be the sunlight. Sunlight is fine but that much contrast will make the SO a little dizzy.

Well nice video, but in my opinion, the phone cover probably are responsible for the error, because the cover are not made with 100%precision... But good job

It's all in the details, slick setup :)

Cool

Nice idea! If I build something like that, I will add an indicator light that lights up when the outlet is "ON". Switch position alone is not sufficient to keep me from making a mistake someday...

Beautiful final result! I like to color choice for the felt lining.

May i ask what app that is on your phone?

Wow I am impressed by the phone. I always assumed they were way off!

thanks...good ideas

Hi Jeff, how well do your resin inserts fit? I find mine are flush to the main table in one area and then a little proud in another. It’s consistent across all my inserts.

Thanks for posting this. I have the same lift and am getting the chatter as well. I'll be doing some maintenance tonight

11:09 just me or does it sound like a donkey when moved? lol

Thanks for sharing Jeff! What is your method to dial the fence to be exactly 90 to the blade once you re-install it? I can't imagine you do the 5 cuts method every single time, do you?