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Sorry to hear that!

No, but good call!! It's just the cam & bottom end & a tensioner pulley.

Thank you! 🙏

I hear ya there. In fairness small cars aren't built like trucks, period. My 84 vw diesel is a great little engine thatll last plenty long if you do the maintenance, including changing the timing belt. While there certainly is planned obsolescence, this was due to a lack of maintenance not a lack of quality 👍

By the transfer of carbon from pistons to exhaust valves technically all the exhaust valves hit but none of them appear bent 🤔 shocking

I'm not sure what the going rate is but everything has marks & it's easy enough to get to. Should only be a 3-4 hour job for someone that knows what they're doing

Every 60-100k. I think 100k is a great rule of thumb 👍👍👍

Yeeep

Yes salvageable. Only the exhaust valves hit & they seem to be the only thing that needs replaced, though they don't even look bent 🤔😳

That sounds dope! I appreciate the stoke, thank you 🙏🙏 In terms of oil cooling I feel like I jumped the gun a bit at a younger age... I would consider running what's there (though it certainly doesn't have the biggest chops) and an oil temp gauge, then decide if you need to improve it from there 👍 I like using Bosch mechanical gauges (cheap & effective) for what I can, mainly pressures & temperatures, and I use Autometer for everything else. Autometer cost a bit more but they're reliable, which is what you need 💯

Thanks!! Yeah I'm curious too 😂😅😅 but we'll find out. In the future I would definitely upgrade to the 02A/J but right now to keep it simple I'm going to stick with 020

138k, presumably the original timing belt. I imagine old age got to it more than the miles

@@OliverFetter yes, I would agree with your assessment. Time deterioration. Great video post!

Jeeez 😵😵😵 that's unfortunate

Yep bth car has 174k kms so late for a timing belt, Peugeot says must done before 160k kms

Jeeez!! That's a wild ride your customer had. A great point though about the vanes sticking (another reason blowing oil out the exhaust is a bad thing - cokes up my vanes!). I think with the right tune & good fuel it shouldn't be too much of a problem on the ALH. I'm planning to use my front mount oil cooler with the new engine too, so I'll be upgrading from the oil to water. I'm a bit concerned about the radiator though, mk4's run much larger radiators than the mk1s and the mk1s def get hot

Thanks! Hell yeah that sounds like a cool project 💯 definitely check back in. Are you planning to blow the turbo into the g60?

😂 it's about heart

That's an interesting method. I did end up doing it with a tape measure: measure, adjust, drive, measure, adjust drive X a few times and it's pretty dead on now

😎 hellll yeah bud

Depends on what it is! I find PartsPlaceInc is pretty helpful & has a huge selection & solid quality, none of it is performance oriented though. For performance parts I look for smaller suppliers usually on an as needed basis depending on what it is.. steering, rods, etc

@@OliverFetter in one of your videos you showed some improvements on the shifting linkage for the rabbit. I have an 81 rabbit pickup and the existing linkage drives me kinda nuts. P.S. thanks for being so good at responding to comments.

@@bryceribken183 right on. I have the USRT 020 linkage in mine & it's solid. I remember it being more annoying than I had hoped when installing it but it definitely cleans up the spongy original feel

Honestly...no? I think I have a napa gold on it right now. I'd say my favorite fuel filter is a fresh one!

@@OliverFetter Fair lol. Seems selection is more limited when you need that thing on top for the pre-heat check valve

Denver 💯

Gotta ride quick for sure

Did not see him coming at all 😆

Thanks! I appreciate it! That's interesting. I havne't spent much time with the OEM turbos on the 1.6 because it was cheaper on my first motor to buy a rebuilt garrett than it was to rebuild the kkk14, never went back!

@@OliverFetter I understand, there isn't much push in the little k14 either. so it's good to try something else, it gives good inspiration for alternatives on the 1.6 engine, what it can spool up etc. i am hooked on the new VNT set up you have made, damn the old td is flying now. :D

@@jesperkonstmann2114 hell yeah thank you! I'm excited to see what else it can do, it's not quite polished yet

Thanks!! I'll do my best

Yes, I have a 12v inline that does 4-7psi & 35gph. Nothing too crazy.

🤣 ahhh it is far too late for that. I'd call that preventative maintenance 🥲

THIS THIS THIS THIS THIS

Right on! I feel like 1.05 is really the furthest you want to go, it's only going to get more clacky and less responsive past that. I would run my stock pumps around .95-1.0mm with good results.

@@OliverFetter Yeah this is all stock. I definitely don't think advancing it anymore would help. Next time I time everything I might bring it back a little. Maybe 1.00. I need to have my injectors rebuilt and the breaking pressure verified though before I settle on anything. Have you tried different nozzles?

I have not. In my experience the nozzles are not the restriction in the system 👍

@@OliverFetter that was my initial thought as well. But it seems that fueling and EGTs are. From the searching I’ve done, the only difference between the 68hp and 75hp 1.6TDs was a small stock intercooler and bigger (“GTD”) nozzles. So there’s some gain to be made there. But more importantly it seems that when you crank the fueling on these pumps you are prolonging the injection duration and that results in much high EGTs. Larger nozzles means shorter injection duration and lower EGTs. At least that’s my understanding?

🤔🤔🤔 I think that makes sense?? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around if nozzles actually make the injection event shorter. I feel like I've heard from multiple sources that they're not the thing to go after but those sources may have been forums 😂 so we know that can't be too helpful. You're 100% right about egt & injection duration. For me upgrading to a larger pump head was the fix, more fuel delivered per stroke = less need to prolong the duration. Being rather ignorant of the nozzles dilemma, id chalk most of that hp gain up to the intercooler. Denser air = more hp.

Well you're talking completely different potatoes here my guy. You're saying ENGINE parts & I'll absolutely agree with you there, MC through and through. But I'm saying STEERING parts!!

Hmmm that's a toughy! If I were you I would start with having it apart & checking everything in extreme detail against a schematic. czcams.com/video/HciSSYuXxdY/video.htmlsi=IorJbbds9uuVw-YI this link is to my vid where my car wouldn't start when I left a spacer out... Seems similar, ALSO in the description there is a part diagram/photo of exactly how the pump SHOULD be, definitely take a look at that. If it otherwise would be working (like ran well before) then you might need to suspect the quality of what you purchased. I'd also be asking questions like: how's the filter? How old is the diesel fuel? Is there water in the fuel?

But that's with stock fuel system. I had a 1.6 with TDI turbo on it. 9 mm fuel pump. It was an early block 1980 and they crack at the corners. The Early 1.6 blocks had Six point head bolts. That's how you know. Then I went a AAZ with an 8 mm pump turned up all the way and I ran that at 1 mm. I suppose if you're running a lot more fuel it's better if the timing comes later. To push the Piston down.

Me too! But this set up is super Frankenstein, unfortunately the stock range just doesn't apply

Nope THE KEY WORD IS MOTORCRAFT.

X2

The lift certainly strains certain things more than usual but that's no excuse for a drag link to go sour in less than 10k miles. Parts aren't made like they used to. And Motorcraft steering parts are 100% certifiable trash! You don't have to lift a truck to find that out 😂

That is certainly the case, I agree. It's also no excuse for a link end to break at 7k miles 😂 I've accepted that it might take a few tries to find something hardy enough to last a few years, but the Motorcraft really was pitiful. Moog made it ~ 1.5 years, which by comparison is pretty solid. I'm going to try some XRF parts next 👍

Hmm that's interesting. Engine oil is happiest (longest service life) around 220-240 degF. You're at 305 degF so that's definitely a bit hot. What are your coolant temps like?? With my oil cooler & thermostat my oil temp was almost always 95-110C (203-230 f). Also where are you measuring oil temp? What gauge are you using? I don't feel like you should be seeing anything too crazy at 10 psi.

@@OliverFetter my coolant temps are great upgraded to an aluminum radiator with two fans and never see the needle go to the middle never seen it run this cold need a gauge to see if that’s even accurate though temp gun says 160f. I measure right at the sandwich plate for the oil filter on the out end before oil gets cooled. Gauge is from eBay couldn’t tell you it lights up blue 😭 I was thinking about getting a mechanical gauge. I think it’s my gauge because I do usually see 95 to 110 while moving and accelerate but the gauge jumps by 10 units up and down rather than 1 or 2 I would think

@@bobbyyurk6483 if your coolant temp is fine then it's 100% the gauge. Digital gauges are horribly inaccurate because any deviation in the 12v power they get will make them read high. I ditched my digital gauges for mechanical for that very reason!!

@@OliverFetter your the best yeah thank you for confirming I gotta get a mechanical gauge forsure then turn this baby up to the mooooon😁

@@bobbyyurk6483 😂 get it!!

Thank ya!!

Watch it again he says he put a lift kit on the van so he is wrong for not correcting the steering geometry and trying to make stock parts work in the wrong application.

It was too advanced!! I've since slowed it down. Hard to nail it bc none of the injection components are stock

Good thoughts!! Short answer - no. This is a different pump than the gold one. Giles actually did the gov mod a long time ago, I've since upgraded it to a 11mm head & TDI rotor. Only started lurching after that upgrade. Timing doesn't seem to affect the lurch. Seems like I should play with pump settings potentially. Any ideas are welcome!

Hahahah. Currently reading this with red calipers on my 2000 honda civic. Had one with the pin seized up. The upgraded ones were the only ones I could get right then in the store.

Yeah I mean If I could choose they'd be gray or orange but 💁 no one gave me the option