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@@angelaclarinet That’s very observant and I’m guessing there is a combination of things going on. First, and this is just speculation from experience, but I’m guessing there is a slight pad misbalance needing some love. Watch my feeler gauge video to learn how to make and use one then check the F-C key and B, then I’d say the crows foot needs to be adjusted. Lastly, the corks on your left B key may need to be replaced.

@@stevenj9970 Adjusting a bridge is as common as tuning. Your bridges moves every time you tune, it moves with every weather change. Keep in mind, the purpose of this video is to demonstrate the easiest way to restring these mechanical pegs; if you have wood pegs then other options are available, but you’ll still have to adjust your bridge. Want to learn how? Check out the courses I have available on line.

@@repairmasterclass As I mentioned I’m a professional musician. I have played in a symphony orchestra for 40 years here in Chicago. Your video seems to demonstrate how to change strings using the geared pegs, which is fine however a player would never take all the strings off and then have the bridge fall over because they would have to have it reset by a repair person-players would change one string at a time and then move onto the next string. Naturally the bridge moves around clearly that happens, and occasionally you need that adjusted but if you’re a player you simply wouldn’t take all of the strings off and chance the sound post falling over. A repair person might do that, yes.

That's very nice of you to say. Check out www.repairmasterclass.com for all the course details and information.

No time like the present: www.repairmasterclass.com/OnlineCourses

Tech-Oil on the rotor and a thread oil in development by Tech-Oil on the threads of rotor screws.

@@repairmasterclass I meant what may have gummed the rotors in the first place, or were they left to dry out?

@@pauljmeyer1 oh I see! Sorry for misunderstanding. Loads of things contribute to this. Being left dry can be a factor, but typically it’s being left wet with the wrong stuff, milk, pop, snot, bacteria and other yummies like that. Bad oil, as in old petroleum gone rancid, can sometimes be a factor as well. I’ve also seen the medications people are on contribute, so, any number of reasons.

Yeah… the fake Wittner are a mess. There are two options for you: 1) use a pair of flare nose pliers (and only flat nose) to slightly squeeze the string just above the ball to help it fit the fine tuner. 2) Use a screw driver to gently pry the fine tuner open - be careful here, there is not much room for expansion but it can be done.

You could... but I'm not sure how much it will help. 1st you'll have to get the rosin off the screw if they are stuck, then graphite might help a little to make them function a little better but the rosin will be more sticky and eventually replace the graphite.

​@@repairmasterclass ah that makes sense - thank you!

Contact cement is why you need. Get it at Ace Hardware, put it on thin, put it on both the cork and the clarinet, let it sit for at least 5 min and then press it on. Where it makes contact is where it will stay so line it up right.

Glad for the feedback. When we meet, buy me a sandwich with all the extra time you were able to bill.

I think i have super glue also and that does not stay permanent and will probably be easy to take off the fingerboard(if needed) later on in the future. Is that ok?

I’m afraid this is one of those applications that you really need the right thing. The reason hide glue has been used for centuries is because it works exactly as needed, including the ability to get things apart when that becomes necessary. Typical wood glue is next to permanent. Don’t use it. White glue is almost as immovable so don’t use it. Super glues also fall short. Order some glue or take it to someone who does this for a living, they’ll have it and it’s not an expensive repair.

Good to know. I've purchased several of these over my many years and have never know the "real" name. Guess I've been lucky.

I've heard this tip before but I use my files on high end violin bridges, fingerboards and necks, I've never felt good about the possibility of getting low quality, wood destructive oils on my finished product...but I'm sure it would help clean the files. I get mine pretty darn clean without the use of oils, plus I save myself the step and expense.

You are welcome!

Hmmm... Interesting question. By "buzzing" do you mean a metal on metal sound or the tone flutters or something else?

This is a difficult one. There are 2 pads involved in your G and one of them seems (and I’m guessing here because I have not inspected your instrument) but seems not to be closing. Unless you have a split E mechanism installed on your flute (the G key is split between two independent keys and not just one fixed key) then the repair is beyond what I can help you with here. Sorry. Go buy groceries like chips, health bars, fruit, root beer, chocolates, etc, and take them with you to the repair shop. Start by placing the chocolate on the counter, then your flute. Add snacks as needed to get your flute done sooner. 😉

Glad I could help. Be sure to check out repairmasterclass.com for all of the courses I offer on how to repair and maintain your instrument.

You're welcome.

You're welcome.

They are an expensive bridge! They are not so bad in a pinch but I don't like them for sound. The grain changes direction in the feet and this is the main reason they don't sound as nice.

@@repairmasterclass thanks for your opinion! Actually.. im afraid for the same thing! But i just had it at home and at the shop that i go they prefer to put this bridge than an other maybe because they have less job to do with this. And less adjustments. But we wll see what's gona happen!

@@12345621770 Let me know what you think the results are to your sound. If you don't like it, tell this shop I offer trainings on how to do lots of orchestra repairs including carving bridges. ;)

@repairmasterclass so the sound is better! Stronger and better timbre from before. The cello is a sr1102 4/4 stentor. And in addition to this bridge I also have Il Cannone Cello Warm & Broad strings.So, the resaults for the sound are better. but overall I find the hight of the bridge pretty high for what i used to play. and the sound post is bigger diameter now. For a student cello i don't know if this is the optimal set up. They told me that the distances for strings and height have the correct measurements. The only problem is that i get a lot of wolf tones.

Hmm... If I understand your issue correctly, this can be a difficult one. If you're referring to the notes of B and C on the staff, these notes can involve a long air column and lots of places for small leaks to pile up. Typically this has to do with the F#-C# key on the bottom joint and can be tricky to adjust correctly and remove any lost motion. If you're referring to B and C above the staff, then I would think you have the screw at the G#/A location a bit too tight and the G# is not closing all the way. You want a little bit of movement of the A key before it hits the G#. Loosen that screw and see if things improve.

Sorry for my delay, I was on vacation. There are a few reasons this could be happening. 1) The screw at the D key (could be on top and easily visible or under the key) could be the issue. Use a feeler gauge and adjust accordingly. Very, very small turns of this screw make big changes. 2) The D# key on the foot joint could be leaking. Use a feeler gauge to test for a seal here. 3) The D key could be leaking. Take a look at these possibilities - learn more about how to do this with the Emergency Repair Guide available for free on my site - and if you're still having issues, take it to a shop you trust.

If you've been turning the screw several times with no change, I'd guess there is another issue at play. The screw may be broken (this happens a lot with plastic screws) or something else. Start by trying to take the screw out - so turn it counter clockwise and extract the screw (don't drop and loose it) to ensure the screw is not broken. If it comes out, it will go back in. When it's in, make sure the G# arm is not bent to the point the screw does not contact the A. If these don't show you the issue, take it to a tech you trust or ship it to me to take a look at.

The inside slide of a trombone is most often a brass tube that has then been chrome plated. In some horns, they use a nickel tube. The trick for sourcing a tube locally is the stocking - the bottom 6 inches or 15 centimeters has been expanded to within .003 to .007" (.07 to 1.77mm) of the outside slide. This is done to make the trombone, with lubrication, air tight. That's difficult to do by hand... Reach out to the manufacturer or any of the many suppliers for some help getting a replacement tube.