![Libor Vitek](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Libor Vitek
Registrace 23. 03. 2013
Video
Colopus 2 - RC monster crawler concept :D
zhlédnutí 654Před měsícem
Used servos: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005053646464.html (green version 35/180) Used ESCs: www.aliexpress.com/item/33008316502.html (2pcs of 10Ax2 version)
DIY air compressor aftercooler / air dryer
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 3 měsíci
cooler used: Derale 15300 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XONT3E/
C-130 Hercules - slicer setup for printing part "Fuselage01-full"
zhlédnutí 77Před 4 měsíci
Slicer used in my case: Bambu Studio (BambuLab X1C printer used for printing).
3D printed RC Lockheed C-130 Hercules 1:32 build - wing #2
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 5 měsíci
Previous video (wing #1 assembly): czcams.com/video/sEtqZUc9kzg/video.html 3D print data source: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-32-scale-c-130-hercules-rc-model-for-vase-mode-printing Updated or selfmade parts mentioned in this video are available here for download: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6535015
DIY filament dry box
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 5 měsíci
Simple filamet dry box. Designed for standard size spools (200 mm in diameter, 68-70 mm wide, central hole 52-53 mm). Plastic containers used: www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099535377892 3D print files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6443804
3D printed RC Lockheed C-130 Hercules 1:32 build - wing #1
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed 5 měsíci
Wing build is split into two parts. In this part I want to share with you my experiences with completion of wing itself (assembling wing's main 3D printed parts). In the next video I'll share my experiences with putting motors and servos. Main parts are printed out of PolyLight 1.0 (LW-PLA of 3D Lab Print vendor), flaps and ailerons are from regular PLA (see video for reason ;) ). Previous vide...
3D printed RC Lockheed C-130 Hercules 1:32 build - fuselage
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 5 měsíci
3D print data are taken from here (for free!!!): cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-32-scale-c-130-hercules-rc-model-for-vase-mode-printing I have to say that although the STL files are free to download, it's prepared in professional way. I saw some commertional airplane 3D print data which did not reach such level of quality like this Hercules. Bravo TAHUSTVEDT! The reason why I published this ...
Animals as trees miniatures
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 9 měsíci
Poplar plywood 4 mm, larger edge of each object is cca 100 mm (4")
CO2 laser - Ventilation upgrade
zhlédnutí 134Před 11 měsíci
Old fan: TT 125 New fan: KSA 125-2E U New fan is installed on piece of 15 mm plywood via rubber silentblocks, just to make it quieter :)
Rise of new machine - Final step so far: LED installation
zhlédnutí 76Před rokem
Rise of new machine - Final step so far: LED installation
Rise of new machine - Camera + machine lid installation
zhlédnutí 101Před rokem
Rise of new machine - Camera machine lid installation
Rise of new machine - Mirrors adjustment
zhlédnutí 44Před rokem
Rise of new machine - Mirrors adjustment
Rise of new machine - Laser tube installed
zhlédnutí 44Před rokem
Rise of new machine - Laser tube installed
Rise of new machine - X & Y energy chains
zhlédnutí 61Před rokem
Rise of new machine - X & Y energy chains
Rise of new machine - X & Y linear rails
zhlédnutí 181Před rokem
Rise of new machine - X & Y linear rails
NEJE Master 2S Max A40640 - Square jigs
zhlédnutí 197Před rokem
NEJE Master 2S Max A40640 - Square jigs
NEJE Master 2S Max A40640 - 3D mandala
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 2 lety
NEJE Master 2S Max A40640 - 3D mandala
maksad mein maddad hogi isse
Fiolish
Word "fiolish" is taken from what language, please?
Nice work. I would put the smoke extractor at the back to give the cover a more less bulky look. The holes in the front would be a bit smaller in diameter given that they run full length at the front of the machine. Fir the lid (cover) i would look for a heavy rod to line inside the front wheee the holes run to give it weight alws to keep the lid tight and covered. Then i would probide provisions an all sides (four points) for braces where the box can be tightghtened to the work table to minimize any sgaking that can ocure during work. Generally,its a gooth and beautiful thing
Thanks fot your comment. It could be an inspiration to the others. Just a few words related to provided build: - fumes outlet can't be from rear side in my case, since I do not have space behind the box (brick wall behind the table). But above the box I do. - front air inlet holes are more or less kind of "look & feel", I like them as they are. :) - heavy rod on front of the lid would bring more efforts to gas springs and handling of the lid. Honestly, having a gap between the lid and box can serve as an air inlet, too ;) Nevertheless if the box is manufactured properly and sealing is placed properly, then there is no gap, even with opened locks :D The locks I used basically only while moving the box from one place to another :) - fixing laser box to the table is not that necessary, I did not observe any "sgaking" or vibrations or noise. The mass of moving parts is insignifficant to mass of the box. But in case of earthquake, fixing the box to the table does make a sense :)
Also zusammenfassend, (2 x 547 x 210 und 720 x 226 für die Seiten. (Deckel 1x 1040 x 170 und 1040 x ??? ( Front 1 x 1040 x 50 und 1x 1040 x 210) Bis auf den Deckel richtig?
Sir, everything shall be obvious from provided 2D drawing link in Description, so: - bottom part 1pc 700x1020 mm - side parts made of 2 pcs 700x262 mm (skew cut in accordance to dimensions 535 & 210 mm) - rear part 1pc 1040x262 mm - front parts 1pc 1040x50 mm + 1pc 1040x210 mm - top parts 1pc 1040x547 mm + 1pc 1040x170 mm
@@libor-vitek Danke für die Antwort, eine Frage noch . Welche Klammern verwenden sie im Tacker um die Teile gut zu verbinden?
@@klausrichter5555 In the pneumatic gun I do not use staples, but nails, 25 mm long.
Könnten sie mir die Abmessungen für die einzelnen Teile schreiben? Finde die Lösung ideal für meinen Atomstack a30Pro lange Version.
Hi, please check the Description of the video. There is available link "2D drawing for box production" with PDF file containing all necessary dimensions.
followed your guild... turned out brillient... very nice... did not have any of the nuts bolt or rod so printed then and glued them
Happy to hear you are satisfied and you managed another way 👍
Excelent job, bro! Respect!
Thanks bro, I had a good teacher when I was young 😉
Cool design!
Thanks 😉
nice work dude very excited on what you come up with next this thing looks highly capable
Thanx a lot 😀
Nice work, very inspiring. You could separate the throttle front and rear, then you will be able to do crab crawl.
Thank you Gonzalo! And yeah, dig feature is available. Beyond that, I am able to run or block any wheel separately, even change its spin direction 🙂 But this is not the end my friend, I am already thinking of completely different and more maneuverable concept 😉
@@libor-vitek I do really like a lot your idea of using the servos as propulsion motors. Actually I think you could have used the servos electronics instead of using ESC, but maybe you way is the easiest way. HAve a look to what I did time ago: czcams.com/video/hZ67wPU9bRE/video.html More info in the description. I need to revisit it. As it needs a V3 version or upper 🤣
@@gonzalop.chomon327 Hi Gonzalo, I can see from your video that we have basically the same interest 😁👍 Regarding the servo electronics removal, the main reason I did it was: in fact it's possible to use original servo electronics as a kind of "ESC", but feedback potentiometer has to be precisely centered and fixed (or replaced by pair of resistors) and even in such case the throttle stick position is used the just for +/- 30% of its range of motion (I mean having servo motor in a kind of speed "loop", where you move throttle stick to 30% of its range of motion, the servo motor turns on 100% already), which is more or less manageable, but disadvantage anyway. Using original servo electronics as a kind of "speed controller" was tested from my side, but I did not like its behavior, so I decided rather to use regular ESC instead.
Nice❤❤
Nice❤❤
Dude. this is awesome!
glad i saw this to keep me motivated , I already printed mine and had to stop when i moved. 6 months ago
I hope you'll finish your build soon my friend ;) Motivation was one of the reasons why I recorded these videos :)
Dont fly it slow.... Its going to have a heavy wing loading, but you have lots of power so that should be no issue.
Thanks for comment! 👍
in contrast to the other German who thinks its overthought - I really appreciate this design, there's less friction on the spools, especially on the paper ones its great because kinda no dust is created. The jig is well designed, must lot's of try and error to get the measurements right, thanks for that as well. Do you have a product recommendation for the d4/d4 coupling, I cannot find one? Thanks in Advance!
Hi Björn, thanks a lot for your comment! The features you mentioned are exactly the reasons I used that design 👍 I've bought batch of d4/d4 couplings here: www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099528095707 (PU 5/32 ) 😉
@@libor-vitekAwesome, thanks for the link and your swift reply :)
Thanks so much for doing this, Libor. I have one question, do you know what the extensions are called so i know i have the correct ones?
You're welcome James. But sorry me again, I do not understand what extensions you mean...
@libor-vitek my apologies Libor, it's my mistake. Using Bambu studio is slightly different to what I've been used to in cura. It all makes sense now though. Thank you so much!
@@jameshoughton701 My pleasure James, keeping fingers crossed and happy landing! 😉
Hi Libor, I've taken the plunge and started to print this today myself after being inspired by your videos. Thank you for all you've done. I have a question. What nozzle did you use for all of the prints? Was is .4mm with Lw-pla? Also, how did you get the gaps in the fuselage 1 model at the very start of this vid? Did you cut them out yourself? The base on mine has come out completely filled in....
Hi James, thanks a lot for your comment and congrats to taking the plunge 🙂👍 I was using 0,4 mm nozzle for all, also for LW-PLA. Before using my brand of LW-PLA (particularly PolyLight 1.0 by 3DLabPrint) I spent quite some time with calibration of slicer. I ended with slicer setup with nozzle temp. 240°C, flow rate 0,6 and printing speed 60 mm/s. Such setup gives vase wall width 0,55 mm, which is in range recommended by 3DLabPrint for their PolyLight 1.0 filament. Regarding the gaps you mentioned, I am not that much sure which gaps you mean. Do you mean the "notch" at the top/back part of Fuselage1 (used for centering "nose" on top/front part of Fuselage2)?
@libor-vitek this is amazing info, thank you so much! The gaps I'm referring to are on fuselage 1 (cockpit and nose). Basically, the base layers when printing are solid with no gaps in them at all, just a completely solid circle. On your print, these have gaps in, one of those you cut out a notch to put the wire through for the wheel steering?
@@jameshoughton701 Oh, as the gaps you mean the free inner spaces at the base of Fuselage01 part, if I am not wrong. Please check this video, hopefully it will be helpful for you: czcams.com/video/OBHTrx2cFuQ/video.html
Morning Libor, hope you're well and progressing well. I've a question on the prop's you're using. What size are they. Apologies if this is listed somewhere on one of your videos, however i've looked through them and can't find anything.
@@jameshoughton701 Hi James, author of this 3D model offers props for 3D printing (STL files starting with syntax "Propeller" in file name), nevertheless I did not want to risk a damage of 3D printed props during flight (which might cause crash), so I bought HQProp 5x4x6 Light Grey www.6sfull.cz/hqprop-5x4x6-light-grey/ Originally I wanted to get some 4-blade 5" props, but it was tricky to find such props to me, but I liked the look of 6-blade ones, so I ordered those 😉
Sorry i have to ask! How did u Print the Nosewheels? That are not the Wheesl from the original file.
Hi, nose wheels are not printed, but bought off the shelf 😉 www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-25mm-1-0-148999 as well as main wheels: www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-38mm-1-5-149001
@@libor-vitek thank you.
*promosm* 💐
Very cool C-130
Was für ein irrer Aufwand. Da gibt es Lösungen für die selben Boxen, man druckt einen Rahmen der von oben eingesetzt wird und ein Mittelstück für die Spule. 2 Teile zu drucken.
Šílené úsilí? To si děláš srandu. Jo, asi vím, které řešení popisuješ. To zase pro změnu připadá šílené mně.
Wow ! Amazing works.. keep going..💯💟
You will get more lift if both propellers on the same wing spin the same direction, with the top of the propeller spinning toward the wing tip. Awsome build BTW.
Thanks for valuable comment!
I love Rc planes and real planes, so this is super cool to me
Well done. Build the same and your Videos are very helpful. Pls can you tell me what motor set u ordered for the c130. Kind regards, Tobias
Hi Tobias, thank for your comment. I've bought particularly this motor set: www.aliexpress.com/item/32831114500.html (mentioned also in the video) I plan to run it from 2S LiPo battery. Assumed throttle in case of 2S and 5x5 props shall be at least 200 grams per motor.
Thank you for the answer :)
Thank you for the answer :)
Thank you for the answer :)
Thank you for the answer :)
Very cool, Libor!
Thanx Emre! 😉
who is the artist for your music?
the artist is 3p1c-h1d3r
I put 2 cups of orange desiccant and the humidity has fallen to 10% , ambient humidity in my area is 38%.
The u turn to close loop the filament when not in use is unnecessary, I understand the idea is to prevent humid air to get back in but since the gap between the filament and the PTEF tube is so small the amount of humid air getting in is negligible.
I think the end of the filament cannot pull moisture that way.
Great Job. I print that plane too.
Thanks. Yeah, except for a few small things, it's a very well prepared 3D print data. And those few exceptions are why I decided to make these videos😉
Great job, thanks for sharing. It's helped confirm some ideas I had for mine plus helped me realise how to do the top. 😀
Glad to hear that, thanks and good luck! 👍
Cool
What is the extended length on the gas struts?
"Free" gas spring has length 245 mm (measured from ball point to ball point). Stroke is 88 mm.
safety glasses work better if there over your eyes
What did you use for the black seal you installed?
I've used a kind of "crown" sealing profile. Something like this: en.aag.world/shop/crown-profiles-with-300p.html
Thank you@@libor-vitek
Hello, very nice. Are the measurements cm or mm?
Thanks :) Not sure which measurements you mean, but I am used to use mm ;)
@@libor-vitek in the 2D drawing for box production for the enclosure
@@markbigham6653 Oh this one, it's in milimeters.
@@libor-vitek Thank you
Cool beans!
Thanks! 🙂
fantastic ! thank you for showing !
You are welcome, thanks for comment 🙂
Good job Libor!
Thank you very much Emre 🙂
@@libor-vitek555Klepnutím na položku ji vložíte do textollvého pole.Klepnutím na položku ji vložíte do textového pole.Podržením položku připnete. Nelpřinlutlé lplvvoložky budou po hodině smazány.🎉Pomocí ikony úprav můžete pokožky připojení, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úpách cz fg6gxxczfcgz gvvvtfhgtihcgv 5l c můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.
*Nice Build!!! Where did you get the Shocks from?*
Thank you 🙂 Those are ordinary furniture gas springs. 100 N each if I remember correctly. Available at every hardware store I believe.
Parada! :) už len kusok a bude to
Onde vc adquiriu as peças ou você mesmo as fabricou
Designed and manufactured by myself, by means of my own CNC router 😉 czcams.com/video/0hrKr4QejcA/video.html
Zdravím Libore,to je dobrej fofr 👍
Ahoj ahoj, dělám co můžu 😄 Díky za sledování 😉
@@libor-vitek na kolik cca takovy co2 vyjde ?
@@hasjan1 Stavba samotného stroje vyšla prakticky na stejné prachy jako koupě hotové mašiny z Aliexpressu (tj. okolo 55 kKč, rozumnějme za materiál, vlastní práci nepočítaje). Ale já jsem potřeboval stroj konkrétních rozměrů (rozměry dány prakticky jediným místem v dílně, kde by se mi ta mašina ještě vešla) a žádný z nabídky hotových strojů mi rozměrově nevyhovoval, tak jsem se rozhodl postavit si svůj vlastní. 🙂
Teria como disponibilizar esse projeto
@@walterteixeira2113 Oi Walter! Well, so far I do not consider such option. May be in the future 😉
To vyzera SUPER. Ake su celkove rozmery? Pocitas aj naklady?
Díky 🙂 Šířka 1700, hloubka 700, výška 450 mm. Celkové náklady se pohybují okolo 55 kKč.
That’s a great idea, I’ll be making some of those myself. I can’t help thinking that the hole on the inside corner should have a radius greater than the material thickness to prevent it from sticking to the glue squeeze-out.
Yeah Mark, really not a bad idea, you can do the inner radius greater than material thickness, but then there might be an issue that glued parts could deform a bit inwards. But it also depends on strength of used rubber band. Just try and then you could drop a feedback here 😉
Looking good!
Thank you 😉
Už aby to bolo :) Držím palce.
Vďaka 😀 Drtím to jak se dá 😁
Is this a kit or have you cut all parts your self?
All those parts are my own design, manufactured on my CNC router.
1200x600mm? Kolko W to bude?
Pracovní plochu to má 900x400 mm. Trubice má nominál 90 W.