Hazy
Hazy
  • 37
  • 1 223 382
Heater Core Flush - Range Rover Sport and LR3
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼
The heater core is a crucial component of a vehicle's heating and ventilation system. It works by using hot coolant from the engine to provide warmth to the interior of the vehicle. The heater core may become clogged over time from sediments that accumulate in the cooling system in a similar fashion to how the radiator itself may become clogged over time. A heater core flush requires a few specific parts to ensure correct fitment of the heater core tubing to a flush system, whether that's a plain garden hose or a more intricate system like I will use in the video.
➤ Parts required:
3/4" internal diameter plastic tubing (25ft): amzn.to/3QPQCzJ
A pump to circulate the cleaner: amzn.to/3QAvL24
Adapters to connect the tubing to the pump (3/4" female to 3/4" barbed): amzn.to/3FReNr1
Universal Coolant (2 gallons): amzn.to/46dFL6V
Radiator flush (x2): amzn.to/468xqRW
Line clamps: amzn.to/3sxqsIw
Hose clamps: amzn.to/3SxHKQs
Buckets (x2): amzn.to/3QADKfx
➤ Tools required:
Flathead screwdriver for the hose clamps
Tool set I use for most projects: amzn.to/46VKwU4
Works with RRS and LR3 MY 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
#rangeroversport #LR3 #rangerover #landrover
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. I (Hazy) assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I (Hazy) recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Hazy.
On My Way by Ghostrifter Official | soundcloud.com/ghostrifter-official
Music promoted by www.free-stock-music.com
Creative Commons / Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0)
creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US
zhlédnutí: 5 669

Video

Brake Bleed and Flush - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 8 měsíci
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The brake fluid should be flushed in the Range Rover Sport or LR3 every 45,000 miles or 2 years (whichever comes first), or, you can use a brake fluid tester to test the water content of the fluid. Water in the brake fluid increases corrosion in the metal brake lines. A brake fluid bleed and flush is relatively cheap, and most of the work comes from jacking up and...
Jaguar F-type R Oil Change - Extraction vs. Drain Plug
zhlédnutí 4,8KPřed 8 měsíci
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The F-type is designed to be easy to change the oil from the top, given it has a oil extraction tube under the oil cap and the oil filter is on top as well. I purchased a oil extractor and would like to use it for oil changes, but only if it outperforms (or is similar) the drain plug method. I will start with the extractor removing as much oil as possible, reposit...
Passenger Footwell Water Leak - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 10 měsíci
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The passenger side footwell may have water ingress due to a clogged sunroof drain (czcams.com/video/sFPufgA0iNY/video.html) or in this case, a warped cowl causing water ingress through the AC duct. Unfortunately, the AC duct intake is in direct line with the bottom of the windshield, so a warped cowl or overly flat windshield wipers may allow water to seep into th...
Rear cabin flapping/ticking/rattling noise - Jaguar F-Type R
zhlédnutí 895Před rokem
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The F-type may develop a flapping ticking rattling or tapping noise in the rear of the cabin that's particularly worse around 70 mph when the spoiler deploys. This is typically due to failure of the weatherstrip tape near the tailgate that allows wind to flap the rubber when the spoiler is deployed. This can be mediated fairly easily by using 3m weatherstrip adhes...
Throttle Body Cleaning in 5 mins - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 11KPřed rokem
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The throttle body is responsible for directing airflow into the engine and responds to accelerator pedal depression. The throttle body is located on the air intake manifold. Sensors in the throttle body determine the position of the throttle plate and the rate of change of its angle. Because the throttle body is integral to engine speed, a dirty throttle body will...
Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 25KPřed rokem
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The wheel hub and bearing on the Range Rover Sport or LR3 are frequent wear items. When the wheel hub/bearing begins to fail, you may notice a grinding noise coming from a corner of the car that changes as the wheel speed changes and/or with turning left or right. The grinding usually does not change with light braking or accelerator use. When you jack up the whee...
Water Pump Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 22KPřed rokem
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The coolant pump (aka, water pump) may need to be replaced on the Range Rover Sport or LR3 if it fails or the gasket starts to leak. You may note a "low coolant level" warning on the instrument cluster, indicating a leak. Check the reservoir first, as sometimes this is a false alarm due to a water-logged sensor in the coolant reservoir. If the coolant is indeed lo...
Belt Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (+Fan Clutch Removal)
zhlédnutí 44KPřed 2 lety
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The primary (serpentine) and secondary drive belts on the Range Rover Sport or LR3 should be replaced every 100-150k miles depending on the model. This video will walk you through replacement of the primary belt, the secondary belt, and in the process show you how to remove the fan clutch. You can inspect your belts to see if it's time to replace them, cracking of...
Blown Head Gasket Test - Any Make/Model
zhlédnutí 28KPřed 2 lety
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ The blown head gasket test kit will work on any make or model, is cheap and easy to use, and is reliable. The head gasket typically seals the engine block to the cylinder heads, but with a leak, the exhaust gasses created in the cylinders can leak into the cooling channels. Typical symptoms of this are: Loss of coolant over time with no notable leaks White Exhaust...
Rear Drive Shaft Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 30KPřed 2 lety
▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼ This video will show you how to replace your rear drive shaft (aka propeller shaft, prop shaft, driveshaft) in a Range Rover Sport or LR3. The overall process is relatively simple, just removing bolts, but the trick with this replacement is having the correct tools (primarily socket extensions) so you have plenty of room. The rear drive shaft in Range Rover Sports...
Key Fob Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 2 lety
Key Fob Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Tail Light Bulb Replacement or Upgrade - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 2 lety
Tail Light Bulb Replacement or Upgrade - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Suspension Sagging Overnight - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 51KPřed 2 lety
Suspension Sagging Overnight - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Valve Block Rebuild / Teardown / Cleaning - Front and Rear - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 34KPřed 3 lety
Valve Block Rebuild / Teardown / Cleaning - Front and Rear - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Replace Rear Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 30KPřed 3 lety
Replace Rear Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Replace Reservoir (Middle) Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 63KPřed 3 lety
Replace Reservoir (Middle) Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Replace Front Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 66KPřed 3 lety
Replace Front Valve Block - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor - Fix P0171 or P0174 - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 21KPřed 3 lety
Cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor - Fix P0171 or P0174 - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Replace Air Filter - Range Rover Sport or LR3 - Engine Too Rich P0172 or P0175
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 3 lety
Replace Air Filter - Range Rover Sport or LR3 - Engine Too Rich P0172 or P0175
Alarm Keeps Going Off - Replace Hood Latch - Range Rover Sport & LR3
zhlédnutí 29KPřed 3 lety
Alarm Keeps Going Off - Replace Hood Latch - Range Rover Sport & LR3
You're Buying The Wrong Wipers! Silicone vs. Rubber Wipers for Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed 3 lety
You're Buying The Wrong Wipers! Silicone vs. Rubber Wipers for Range Rover Sport or LR3
Add Bluetooth Audio to Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)
zhlédnutí 97KPřed 3 lety
Add Bluetooth Audio to Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)
Thermostat Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (Overheating Fix!)
zhlédnutí 32KPřed 3 lety
Thermostat Replacement - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (Overheating Fix!)
Replace Brake Pads - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (+ Rotors & Sensor!)
zhlédnutí 20KPřed 3 lety
Replace Brake Pads - Range Rover Sport or LR3 ( Rotors & Sensor!)
Expansion Tank Replacement Range Rover Sport & LR3 (Low Coolant Level Fix!)
zhlédnutí 24KPřed 3 lety
Expansion Tank Replacement Range Rover Sport & LR3 (Low Coolant Level Fix!)
Resonator Delete Exhaust Mod - Range Rover Sport or LR3
zhlédnutí 41KPřed 4 lety
Resonator Delete Exhaust Mod - Range Rover Sport or LR3
Replace Air Suspension Compressor - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (Suspension Fault)
zhlédnutí 169KPřed 4 lety
Replace Air Suspension Compressor - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (Suspension Fault)
Replace Height Sensor - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)
zhlédnutí 146KPřed 4 lety
Replace Height Sensor - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)
Replacing Sway Bar Bushings - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)
zhlédnutí 31KPřed 4 lety
Replacing Sway Bar Bushings - Range Rover Sport or LR3 (2005-2009)

Komentáře

  • @raydin
    @raydin Před 8 hodinami

    Hey, Hazy. I drive from Katy to Galveston pretty much every day, and so I need to have good wipers on at all times. I've been using rubber blades of different brands to test them out, but I just heard about silicone wipers. You are so far the only person with a video about them that covers the only really relevant advantage of a silicone wiper, durability. How are they holding up so far? Do you feel they are still worth recommending? Also, do you only apply the coating in the beginning or every set interval of time?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 7 hodinami

      @@raydin They're still just like new, I'm never buying rubber wipers again 😂

  • @user-do4ik6et7z
    @user-do4ik6et7z Před 3 dny

    Hello I have an issue. 2011 SC RRS. I’m getting a vehicle leaning detected after starting a drive. The issue disappears when shutting off the car I dont know where to start

  • @HaroldWalder-ft2ye
    @HaroldWalder-ft2ye Před 4 dny

    Great how to video! Thanks!

  • @sharmee007
    @sharmee007 Před 7 dny

    Hi, great video.. thank you so much. Just wondering which adpater did you use to fit in the reservoir? Do you have the link? Thank you

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 7 dny

      It's the adapter that came with the power bleeder, it seems to be pretty universal I believe: amzn.to/4eMXPu6

  • @patrickbarksdale5316
    @patrickbarksdale5316 Před 11 dny

    You said a new one is around $150 I call the dealership they said $1,788,72 that a big difference

  • @newFaction64
    @newFaction64 Před 13 dny

    Google say silicone lubricant degrades plastic.

  • @larrysimon1
    @larrysimon1 Před 15 dny

    I never ever use the extraction pump on my own Jags it does not clean out all the old oil. Always take the sump plug out and drain it fully that way.

  • @dpcustomsolutions4530

    Why is their green coolant in the hose at the end of the video?

  • @chrishull9983
    @chrishull9983 Před 16 dny

    I don't understand why you had to replace the front cowl panel 🤷

  • @fallouty
    @fallouty Před 17 dny

    Thank you, this was very helpful! Please consider more videos covering around other F-Type quirks, seatbelt, rattles, dynamat, speaker system upgrade, display upgrade, etc.

  • @ingemec83
    @ingemec83 Před 18 dny

    I had the same problem with my 2006 LR3 HSE ...changed T'sat ...problem fixed!...Excellent videos

  • @olivere9474
    @olivere9474 Před 19 dny

    Great video.. I officially am gonna start trying to do repairs myself.. Can anyone help here?? Last week, I got the restricted performance error. didnt check out what was going on as I turned the car off and it went away. It came back the other night. 1st, could not drive over 30.. then later it allowed me to drive fine but engine light was on. In the morning, all gone and I could drive normal with no errors. I decided to check what error codes were flagged. 1) P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 2) P2105 Throttle Control System 3) P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve its weird that it goes away and comes back. Never know when its going to do this but need to fix. Today I cleaned the mass airflow sensor hoping that helps but drove great for a few days 50-100 miles then happened again. Any ideas? Was gonna try cleaning the throttle body.. i have a 2011 L322 HSE I don't think you can replace just the throttlebody sensor you have to replace the whole unit if it comes to that

  • @mscher22
    @mscher22 Před 21 dnem

    Oh man ... I bought an aftermarket Hitachi replacement compressor and when I went to replace it I discovered that mine is an AMK!!!! and it is a 2007 Range Rover Sport. It has the 2.7L diesel engine and was purchased in Spain. Not blaming anyone ... just venting!

  • @northjerseykevin3915
    @northjerseykevin3915 Před 21 dnem

    Thanks for the video. I called Landrover and they told me $500 to change latch in labor. I almost question if they were messing with me

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 19 dny

      haha pretty classic of the dealer, and it would have taken a week

  • @nelsonortas4796
    @nelsonortas4796 Před 23 dny

    Awesome!!!!!!!......... My car is not overheating but does smoke from near the right side of the battery in the same direction of the center windshield stereo speaker. smells like coolant leaked onto the motor

  • @gigicarnat
    @gigicarnat Před 24 dny

    Hi I replaced my height sensor, like in the video. The old one was very worn, but I have a problem now, my car doesn’t recognize the new one, tried to calibrate the suspension, the computer says “out of limit tolerance” any advice ? Anybody ?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 24 dny

      Either the connector to the new sensor is corroded/dirty/incomplete OR the new sensor is faulty. I'd try cleaning the electrical harness and if that doesn't work, I would try a new sensor.

    • @gigicarnat
      @gigicarnat Před 24 dny

      @@HazyJay it’s an aftermarket sensor, maybe I have to code it ?could be ?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 24 dny

      @@gigicarnat Yeah, sometimes the aftermarket sensors aren't plug and play and need calibration at the dealer. Because of that I usually try to get OEM height sensors just so I don't have to deal with it.

  • @oglaceddrug
    @oglaceddrug Před 24 dny

    Disconnecting the NEGATIVE terminal is ideal in practice (as to minimize chances of shorting out by contact of the POSITIVE terminal to the vehicle’s chassis)

  • @thatianasswhight2704
    @thatianasswhight2704 Před 28 dny

    Left side of my RR is very low

  • @macfarland1
    @macfarland1 Před 29 dny

    Good looking out on the 2 bolts not to remove on the pump. Problem I had was I was unable to remove the fan shroud on my 2011 HSE (Jag). removed 2 pins and 3 bolts. Seems to be 2 pieces. got the smaller one out but then got stuck. Maybe you have to remove the fan.

  • @atlantisgriffin5178
    @atlantisgriffin5178 Před měsícem

    I have the same suv how much to have mine done the same

  • @todcarter110
    @todcarter110 Před měsícem

    I was thinking, surely I can strap a ping pong ball onto the float. What a waste having to swap out the entire Unit.

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      In theory you can "let it dry out" and replace. Considering coolant is likely ethylene glycol it would take about 2-3 weeks to "evaporate" and repair is a big maybe, I just went ahead and replaced it. You're right though, if the reservoir was more expensive I definitely would have gone with the dry out method.

    • @todcarter110
      @todcarter110 Před 29 dny

      @@HazyJay Cheers for the reply+Info. It certainly is odd they'd make a coolant float that'd sink from Coolant. I believe the Vehicle i purchased was sold due to this as one of the problems, only the prev owner didn't know it's simply that the float has sunk. At first I was overfilling the Overflow and it was purging the excess out and I kept smelling coolant (I need to check all the overflow hoses for a possible leak it smells so much). Then I thought what if the sensor is kaput so googled it and found it simply sinks over time. I have a similar age related prob with the rear boot latch soft close motor. One of the micro switches has the nipple missing, so I need to tap the latch with a Flat screwdriver and hammer to get the motor to activate and close the boot fully. With all the talk of saving the planet how they get away with all these disposable parts is beyond me. Thought I might make a Vid on the Boot latch repair. I opened it up (With a Dremel Mini Grinder wheel.) n had a look, nothing wrong with the Motor it's simply the rubber nipple on the micro switch has worn off. I used Bolts nuts n reassembled it. That's when I worked out it's simply missing the rubber button to tell the motor when the boot has been opened so as to activate when the boot is closed. One or two taps and bam the motor engages and pulls the boot shut. Thanks for the upload here though. Always helps once seeing someone has done it before. Cheers From Down Under!

  • @OisteinRU
    @OisteinRU Před měsícem

    Hey! All your RRS videos are super💪🏼 really helpfull! My RRS 2010 has a problem with the suspension won’t lower. When I try to lower it, it jumps up to offroad mode. The ride feel kinda “bumpy” and the ride height looks off. It does not sag over time. Any helpful advice? Thanks!

  • @sadoooal_amrei4205
    @sadoooal_amrei4205 Před měsícem

    I hope you can put a translation into Arabic because your clips are useful. Thank you very much.

  • @DoU3vnLftBr0
    @DoU3vnLftBr0 Před měsícem

    My rear suspension is stuck in extended mode, can I just loosen the vent to atmosphere valve connector to drop the air suspension manually?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      Yes, but stop as soon as you hear a hiss and let it deflate over the next 5-10 minutes

    • @DoU3vnLftBr0
      @DoU3vnLftBr0 Před měsícem

      @HazyJay of course I want to fix the problem but as a temp solution to driving the car this will work. When starting the car back up again what level will it pump up to, hopeit won't reset back to extended? Should I try set the computer to normal height before draining the air from the rear so it only pumps back up to normal height?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      @@DoU3vnLftBr0 Hard to say what it will try to go to when you restart the car, honestly the compressor might shut off because it gets too hot before it gets back to extended. Definitely try and press low or normal height as soon as you start the car, the height sensors should know you are no longer extended.

  • @laithvideos1
    @laithvideos1 Před měsícem

    For an LR4, the visual display is not like this. How do you know if there is a height sensor issue when there is a suspension fault warning on the console vs. a valve block issue? Car compression system works fine and stays level overnight. Thank you!

  • @lilkg69
    @lilkg69 Před měsícem

    I’ve replaced the MAF with an OEM LR one correct part number. Still getting P0174. What do you suggest I look at next? I have a pcv valve in the mail so far…

  • @muhammadandriansyah7331
    @muhammadandriansyah7331 Před měsícem

    I tried disconnecting the battery terminal and left it for 1 night but the suspension wouldn't go down. where's the problem?

  • @gnfnroses5470
    @gnfnroses5470 Před měsícem

    Im cutting my #7 and #8 right now. 2007 RR Sport HSE 4.4L V8 Ill post the video how it sounds when i come home.

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      Nice, I'm curious how it will sound.

    • @gnfnroses5470
      @gnfnroses5470 Před měsícem

      @@HazyJay there is a video that i post on my channel. Is made with iphone so it may be bad🤷🏻‍♂️

  • @gnfnroses5470
    @gnfnroses5470 Před měsícem

    Is this 4.4L v8

  • @Davincisgarage
    @Davincisgarage Před měsícem

    czcams.com/users/shortsB56vlvBOc2A?si=jL6Jcz7W1S0BeI-x Did ur bushings sound like this??

  • @usrr5294
    @usrr5294 Před měsícem

    Hard to get to top bolt was stripped. Gonna try to get the entire bracket off as people have recommended

  • @Kraziken0
    @Kraziken0 Před měsícem

    I feel like I extracted more oil out. But I am using the oil extractor that attaches to an air compressor.

  • @blackrocklookout
    @blackrocklookout Před měsícem

    I like to watch your videos to look for things that are bound to come up on my LR3. That one clip you showed in this video of the glowing coolant leak on top of the plastic thermostat housing left of and down from the throttle body. I have that too. What causes it?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      If you just replaced the thermostat or disconnected any of the upper hoses, coolant at that spot is likely from spillage during that process. If not, then it's possibly a leak from the thermostat or something around there like the bleed screw.

    • @blackrocklookout
      @blackrocklookout Před měsícem

      @@HazyJay Okay, thanks. Not sure of the maintenance history of the cooling system as I got the vehicle recently. Seemed odd to me that there would be coolant above a connection rather than below!

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      What I would do is clean it off with some water and see if it reaccumulates, if not you're probably good 👍. One time I checked under the hood and the bleed nut by the thermostat was totally broken off and leaking.

    • @blackrocklookout
      @blackrocklookout Před měsícem

      @@HazyJay Appreciate you, your videos, and your willingness to answer quick questions!

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      No prob haha, were all in this together 🤙

  • @drewstroescu
    @drewstroescu Před měsícem

    Super vidéo Merci de France

  • @kyfisher3662
    @kyfisher3662 Před měsícem

    what my local shop tells me is silicone: good for those that dont maintain there car. leaves an ok hydrophobic coating. dosnt get damaged in the sun. Rubber: good for those that maintain there car. dosnt leave a hydrophobic coating, but spray on rain x will do a better job at repelling what and silicone blades jitter on rain-x. they do get damaged fast by the sun, but if you coat them in somthing like 303 then they will last just as long. whats you thoughts on this?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      Local shop will always want to sell Rubber because they need replacing more often. Ultimately, Silicone is the superior material for wiper blades, and there are zero negatives.

  • @blackrocklookout
    @blackrocklookout Před měsícem

    I'm going to give this a shot on my LR3. I don't have a check engine light, but I have an annoying message indicating "Reduced Engine Performance." The air filter from previous owner was deplorable, so I changed it. And I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The message remains. No real rough idle issues to speak of, just the message.

  • @MOTOPILOT6
    @MOTOPILOT6 Před měsícem

    I've done one oil change using the same extractor. As I recall my tube was small and slide inside the tube in the cars oil fill hole. I filled the extractor plus up to the lower line. Perhaps your extraction tube is shorter.

  • @cnrk1832
    @cnrk1832 Před měsícem

    No need to calibrates?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      Not as long as you use the same brand, if it's OEM and replace with OEM you'll be fine. If not then you can install it and see what happens, 90% of the time it will be fine.

  • @lucygilbert9999
    @lucygilbert9999 Před měsícem

    Hi! Thank for your videos! They are very helpful. I'm hoping you can help with an problem we're having with our 2008 RRSS. The brief version of the saga is - soon after we bought it last year, we started having occasional then regular suspension fault issues. Stopping and restarting would re-engage the system. The error messages included suspension fault, the car will raise when cooled, the car is raising slowly, limited engine performance, and check spare tire pressure. The car sagged on the front passenger side. About 3 months ago the suspension failed and the front end wouldn't raise at all. We weren’t in a position to repair or stop driving it and one day the problem seemingly disappeared for about 2 weeks. After it failed it again functioned after a month for 10 days. A month later the back end is now really low as well. And finally, there is a hose in the very front which is just hanging. We think it's the air suspension hose. Though I know very little about RRs it seems likely that whatever the original problem was there are probably other issues resulting from the unfortunate but necessary use of the car since the suspension started failing. If you have any thoughts or suggestions I would greatly appreciate hearing them. Many thanks! Lucy

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      If it fails on COLD days, it's likely a low voltage battery and the battery needs replacing. This will cause all sorts of errors including transmission faults, suspension faults, and engine performance faults. Worse on cold days. If it's not the battery, then it's not uncommon for the compressor to fail, this often displays "suspension fault, normal height only" shortly after starting the car that goes away with restarting. Personally, I swapped my air suspension with regular coil springs, costs around $1500 but you never have any suspension faults again.

  • @raijong_
    @raijong_ Před měsícem

    Hey, I have a Land Rover 2007 Lr3 it’s still overheating and I’ve replaced the thermostat housing already. What else could it be?

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před měsícem

      Potentially the water pump, low coolant levels, air lock. I would first check coolant level, and if it's normal, perform a coolant bleed procedure to ensure the air is out of the system. You should see trickling of coolant into the reservoir when the car is running, IF NOT, the water pump is likely bad.

  • @sajidempower
    @sajidempower Před měsícem

    Saved me big bucks! Thanks. Did it in my garage.

  • @aaronbrumley8937
    @aaronbrumley8937 Před měsícem

    Bro get a torque gun lol it will make life a lot easier all those nuts will come right off with the push of a button, works great with rusted bolts

  • @h.o.p801
    @h.o.p801 Před 2 měsíci

    Thanks for the helpful video! I did my passenger side. Wasn’t complicated at all. Just very physical.

  • @estateofaloha
    @estateofaloha Před 2 měsíci

    Bro this was the easiest to follow and straight to the point car repair tutorial ive seen. Great work.

  • @rigi3921
    @rigi3921 Před 2 měsíci

    Good video, I have a problem with a 2008 LR discovery 3. With the car off, with the suspension lowered, the fault appears as soon as I turn the key without turning on. If I raise and lower the suspension everything is ok. Is it a problem with a leak in the air circuit or is it due to the sensors? Thanks for your support.

  • @jrfh22012
    @jrfh22012 Před 2 měsíci

    Ridiculous a vehicle like this has this problem. After a recent storm, the interior looked like Joel opening the door of his dads 928 after driving it into the lake.

  • @yamahaking6137
    @yamahaking6137 Před 2 měsíci

    Hazy you got excellent videos n straight to the point! So I recently had my air dryer was all rusted because I was stuck in muddy water! So when I came home I had all kinds of faults! Took the compressor out checked the dryer it was all jammed all the filters in it! So I ended up replacing the compressor (Arnott brand) paid a lot of money for it! But didn’t solve the problem! Rear end stuck in extended mode and front drop all the way! Here is the codes I’m getting on my gap tool ! C1A13-64 and c1A36-01 if you could please help me with this I would greatly appreciated it! Thanks a lot !

    • @HazyJay
      @HazyJay Před 2 měsíci

      Well the C1A13-64 error is usually a problem with venting OUT air, the solenoids can get stuck closed if clogged with water as well as the compressor vent itself. You can consider changing the rear solenoid to see if that unsticks the rear end.

    • @yamahaking6137
      @yamahaking6137 Před 2 měsíci

      @@HazyJay thanks a lot!! I’ll look into it!

  • @wallaceButts-nt7nt
    @wallaceButts-nt7nt Před 2 měsíci

    Change the air suspension valve blocks now the vehicle rides in high mode

  • @Driven.ByVlad
    @Driven.ByVlad Před 2 měsíci

    Hey! What do you recommend for a scan tool for the car, friend got one as a gift and is having a ton of Electrical problems so I’m curious on your preferred scan tool

  • @nigelsookram573
    @nigelsookram573 Před 2 měsíci

    Best video ever about rr suspension leaks , great info ,keep it up