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Based off the amperage of each leg you measured 1 120v leg 22 amps 2nd 120v leg 27.5 amps your house was drawing 5,940 watts

Something doesn't look right in that panel.The main panel . I noticed the main only has one leg

What happens when you wire the ground and neutral from the generator to the sub-panel. Would the neutral and ground connect to the corresponding busbars in the sub-panel? Even though the bonding is in the main disconnect? The generator has a floating neutral. Thanks

I have a question. At 9:20 into the video I see that in you have connected one of the hot wires coming from the bottom of the meter to the neutral block in addition to the neutral wire coming from the meter. Shouldn’t it be connected to the empty terminal feeding the main breaker? I can’t see how you could have 240 in the breaker panel.

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Bro you over complicated two wires

I know its an old post, but pencil and paper would make things look easer. (Kinder garden level schematic) Thanks for the video

It looked like there were mixed brands of breakers in that Eaton sub panel

Nice vid & interesting finder.

This is a great video and needs to be sent to all the leads starting out. I've seen this so many times.

This is one they keep getting wrong in the field... Wall of shame for them this week.

what do you do for health insurance?

Do you add both of the hots together after you check the amp draw with your amp clamp?

This would be infinitely more useful without a second doorbell in the circuit.

How many ground rods you need to install for 100 amp service?

I thought it was simple.

You stated before correctly before this point and elsewhere the minimum size grounding conductor, but at 2:51 and 8:00 you state "maximum" size.

I've driven nothing but Volvos for decades. They all have the same problem...overheating electrical components, mainly relays and computers. I learned how to take relays out, check out the solder joins for cracks, retouch them, take the covers off carefully and drill them full of holes, and put them back. This way the trapped heat can escape. I don't buy new ones unless I have to. I also pull out fuses and sand them off, they can be full of corrosion. If you are running A/C, you are making engine run harder and making it overheat since it has to turn compressor as well. I usually lower the windows and let the outside air in. You would think that by now Volvo would fix this, but they won't.

great video

This was pretty good, but you're really not twisting those wire nuts on firmly enough. You're supposed to keep twisting until it causes the wires to twist around each other for an inch or two outside of the wire nut (most manufactuerers' instructions will say this). That's how you know it's on firmly enough, is making good contact with the wires, so it won't loosen or come off over time. (Or just use WAGOs (or the newer similar connectors from IDEAL).. they work just as well and are much harder to screw up, in general, plus they're easier to work with if somebody needs to open it up and change something later.) Also, per code, you need to fasten those wires down (using appropriate wire staples/clips) within 6 inches of that box (12 inches if you're using a box with actual clamps, but that one doesn't have any).

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i have 6 volts AC from Neutral to Ground ( ALL electrical outlets have this ) . the ground wires in the breaker panel are all tied to the breaker box via the ground bus, however the breaker box is NOT tied to the ground rod , while the Neutral is tied to the ground rod . thus neutral and ground wires are NOT tied( bonded ) together, however , the breaker panel appears to have been wired correctly . Neutral to Ground bonding is missing update june 28 , 2024 i tightened the Green Bonding Screw . return neutral bus bar now fully connects to the metal breaker box. 0 volts on ground now , perfect.

How much is income to you after overhead?

Easy money. Where are you located?

Maybe you can shed some light for me on setting up the ground connect from the meter can to the cutoff switch? The power company wired the meter with the usual two hots and neutral. Then they wired the meter can to ground and on their installed ground rod. I have to install the disconnect. They require ground bushing to do that. My presumption is that the bushing should be inside the cutoff box on the service side of the switch. Where to I connect the grounding wires to? At a guess, I should attach the ground inside the meter can and then open a section of insulation for the ground bushing to clamp on then, from the bushing continue the ground wire to bus inside of the disconnect switch. Is the disconnect now the main panel? Do I need to continue ground from the disconnect into the conduit and the circuit panel which is now a sub-panel? I still have to install a separate ground rod for the sub-panel so I am not understanding why I would need a ground between the main and sub-panel. It's only a 24' run, underground, from the disconnect to the sub-panel so the cost not such a big deal compare the cost of the cutoff switch. Any links or recommendations you may have to offer? Thanks, enjoyed the video.

Great video. Real world stuff. I'm just about to start my own one man electrical contracting business and of course my biggest worry is pricing. So if you have any advice I'd love to hear it. Even if you could break down how you priced these jobs. Thanks again.

wow, you make it so plain. Thanks

I’m fucking lost

This guy sounds like he’s confused himself

Is there a transformer that is for a house that has six doorbell chimes

Thanks for this video. Once my xc90 drives for about 20 kilometres, it loses power and starts to hesitate when pushing down the gas pedal. Sometimes, the dash just goes blank, and the entire system just underperformes. I can't wait to try this. Much love from Nigeria 🇳🇬 ❤️

Very helpful thank you. Was unsure what did and did not need bonding.

Excellent video.

Great solution and idea. Been having sudden loss of power too. May I please know what was the dimension of your 12V fan solution? There are many sizes to choose from unfortunately.

Any similar issue with the TcM (transmission)

Thank you so much

Trying to figure out why the door switch because if you go in the room and close the door, the light goes off but you need the light so that means you have to leave the door open. To keep the light on. So what’s the point of having a door if you can’t close it and have the light on. Put a timer switch in might be a better option. Just a friendly advice. Thank you for the video it was helpful.

Great video, we had this same situation on a project! Thank you for posting

Great video. I did the same thing but using an existing intercom system from a 1960s home, that wire which is doorbell gauge wiring , I put in place of the intercom speaker at the front door with the ring doorbell in its place.

This is the second home in which czcams.com/users/postUgkx0jZ_lGlDVJhDnmagEU8gn47cmfPNlLQU we've replaced our "regular" doorbell with a Ring video doorbell and we really enjoy it. It is very easy to install and it works very well, with a clear picture through the app and good in-home use (we added the chime, which is also easy to install and doesn't require another thought to use).

Attaching the doorbell to the mount is a little difficult but once it locks into place it seems extremely sturdy. czcams.com/users/postUgkxxHZwMa8CsRjYhf9s4W8w0Dwm47uytWOp I replaced my regular doorbell with this and hard wired it in, using my existing wires and mechanical chime. It works perfect so far and integrates perfectly with my blink camera system. It also works seamlessly with Alexa

Xtreme cold will make s60 goes to limp mode?

Thank you for the tutorial and follow up. I just bought a 2008 XC90 from a dealer that got one at auction. Car is very clean with high milage, but otherwise in great shape. Driving home yesterday after being out for a few hours the car lost power on the highway. Was able to get it to the shoulder where it eventually shut off. I live in north TX, Fort Worth specifically and it's bee over 100 degrees for the last 14 or 15 days. Yesterday the temp reading was 110. After several attempts to restart the car started and drove the last 1.5 miles home with no issues. I understand I have a newer model, but it sure sounds very similar to your issues. I am going to try your fix first to see if this will resolve my issue. Thank you again for the original video.

Awesome, this video was informative and interesting to watch 🎉

Yeah I was out driving my 04 xc70 and my cluster went completely out. I’m gonna look into this. Car was driving nicely before hand tho

Thanks for the update.

This is very interesting.... My volvo only stalls when warm as well runs fine otherwise. I have the 3.2 (08) i will definitely try this makes sense. (Found issue. Fuel PSI cut when temp got too 190 degrees . Fuel pressure sensor is the issue. Took weeks to figure out .

not doorbell I meant to say my transformer

I don't see a transformer but I see 2 blacks and 2 whites then the small door bell wire...couldd it be Im missing my doorbell?

Dear 33 Electric, firstly greetings from UK. This is one of the most basic, useful fix videos for xc90 on CZcams. Just the other day I drove home from work, no problems at all then went straight out a couple of minutes later and pressed the door button - nothing, so thought it was odd, opened it with the key then got Airbag & brake failure warnings then dash went blank so I drove home in limp mode. Put a diagnostic tool on it & cleared codes it's been fine since but guess what it was like 80°F so I think it's just overheating. I'm going to put a fan in mine. So thank you very much👍💰