Video

Hello Less than one hour.

Sorry, I don't know

@@Racov well shoot, thanks anyway. Great video 👍

Yes, signal

20 centimetres

@@Racov i mean its a pc fan.. 120x20cm?

@edwardseth1230 no. It runs at mains power 220v. I don't think a PC fan is powerful enough for a bathroom. For other applications, of course, you can use a PC fan.

@@Racov let me clearify. when i ask what is the size of the fan you said.. 20CM.. so i replied to the dimention of the PC fan.. 120 Diameter and 20cm grith or deep... cause there are old SERVER fans that size and very rugged.. the modern RGB fans of the same size 120x20cm are more or less.. very flimsy. good to run a pc.. but not for this type of application.

@edwardseth1230 True. Misunderstanding. The fan frame size is 20x20 centimetres and the deep around 4 centimetres. It runs at mains power 220v. It is indeed a spare part from an industrial computer. The PC fan is 120x20 millimetres (12x2 centimetres)

No, never! The low voltage part of the power supply. Near +12v, +5v. Or even the metal case.

@@Racov thanks. Do you have any idea what does it mean M/S and N.C ? btw here is my ports; | 22v 22v gnd gnd | 5v 5v gnd | N.C ON DIM M/S | i'm really thinking about disassamble the huge ccfl inverter off the AIP-0178 board :)

@@orfe The GND near 22v or 5v. It's the same. I'm sorry, I don't know all the ports of an inverter board. You have to try and experiment.

@@orfe NC usually means Not Connected

@@Racov <3

Hey man, I don't know. The old ones had the antenna around the display. These new fancy ones, who knows?! Can't even open them up.

As big as your local area network is. As far as you can run a utp cable .

Sorry I guess the simplified question would be, where does the orbitron DDE output go and how do I read it. Thanks again :)

Hi. The stereo is installed in the car or on the bench? Use a voltmeter to check the voltage. You should have 12-13V between black and yellow. You can connect together red and yellow for a test. It is not necessary to connect speakers.

@@Racov i installed it in my car using a din set. i dont own a voltmeter unfortunately. it says 10 the red fuse thing so maybe its 10V? what is the probability that my radio is just broken? or is it my iso connector adapter

@Void-rv6xe 10 on the red fuse means 10 amperes. Different thing. So you use an intermediate connector to install the stereo in your car. The chances the stereo is broken are very small. I suspect wrong wiring. If you turn the car key contact, still nothing?

@@Racov yea i turn the electricity on and theres nothing. so should i find a new adapter? and what should i pay attention to. theres a gap in my adapter whereas on my cars cable theres some more metal ends that i think are supposed to be connected. so basically besides power and speaker from the iso connector when u connect car with adapter

You have to measure the voltage at the stereo connector, black and yellow. There is no other way to tell if the connector is faulty or the stereo.

Yes, you can

No, it works only in one direction.

@@Racov is it possible to make it work in both directions? Is it a code or hardware limitation?

This is the limitation of the code I wrote. I am sure it can work in both directions. You should check the Internet, perhaps someone else has done it.

I just cut apart a battery myseld and i am asking myself the same question.... did you figure it out?

@@dakazze Yes, I have news: I actually run it off a Panasonic 4.5V 500ma power supply from a discman. The tablet is a Lenovo. I thought it was a fault of the internal batt, but actually the usb port seems to have bad contact to the mainboard and cannot charge properly. So, anyway. Was running off a Li-Ion perfectly. Then I had bbq, some wine and connected a 2cell lipo. Didn't start, went to bed! Next morning I realized I connected over 8v. So, I thought I fried the controller. The tablet was dead. Later I found out that the start button was not reacting well. Shorted the contacts with a screwdriver and that bloody thing started again. Since charging doesn't work, I tried to find a proper psu. The original batt has 4.4V, so the Panasonic is just about right. I heard that 5V usually is ok, too, but the bmc can get hot. I do believe the controller has an overvoltage protection, since it didn't get fried when I connected the 2 cell lipo by mistake. Try to find these silicone diodes in your spare electronics. They lower voltages by 0.7V. Then you are on the safe side. With 5V you might scratch at the limit the controller was made to operate on. Hope this was helpful. I wrote this from the Lenovo which is on 100% all the time, now😁

@@InTheSh8 Thanks for your reply mate I appreciate it! I witnessed VERY strange behavior with my tablet: After doing all the disassembly and wiring I hooked the controller up to my lab-power supply and started out with 4V, simulating a almost fully charged battery. The battery even said 3.8V... When I tried powering the tablet it was stuck in a bootloop. The higher I cranked the voltage the further it got in the boot process and finally at 5V (!!!!) it was able to boot. I wont complain since it made it easy to hook it up to a old PSU I had laying around but I have no idea how it is possible that the device worked fine before at only 3.8V and now it needs 5V to the same contacts. All in all the process was easier than anticipated.

@@dakazze I have seen other videos with people stuck in that boot loop and having to simulate the "sag" of a battery with an electronic circuit. My whole journey was rather chaotic as I already mentioned to you, having an issue with the start button right when I thought I blew the tablet up with an almost fully charged 2S lipo. I was also too embarrassed to tell you that I actually burned a diode or resistor on the tablet's mainboard. It happened that morning after! I still had the unreliable start button, fiddling around with a losely connected li-ion battery at the back, shorting some contacts and suddenly that component started glowing! I thought everything was damaged "for good". A day later I saw that it would still at least show the "Lenovo" sign with the charger connected. At the same time I also started shorting the start button with a screwdriver and the tab came back to life. I think I destroyed a component, necessary to check if a battery is attached since it runs off that Panasonic 4.5V psu, now, stable.

@@dakazze 2nd part: So, on 5V it runs reliably, now? Many have the problem that the tablet software calculates a theoretical depletion of the no longer existing battery and doesn't understand it is on a stable power source. Mine is at 100% all the time luckily. Did you maybe not set enough amps when trying with 4V to boot, not intentionally, but by mistake or so? Lastly I think you overrode a threshold with 5V where the circuit assumes a fully charged battery with a charger connected at the usb port and somehow "gives a green light" to boot!!

Hi. I will try first with only one battery. The bigger one, if there is such. As you see in the video, the 5V from the USB is OK. The little battery controller will take care of it.

@@Racov Alright, I'll attempt and report, thank you. I also have a DC step down controller but my multimeter is unavailable at the moment, so I couldn't regulate it.

Hey Pedro Please give me more details. Green arrow? What tracking software do you use?

@@Racov im using the PST rotator software. I’m missing the position feedback in the software which would be the green line

@pcostadias the green arrow always shows up, it's just how PST works. If there's no feedback, it stays at zero. Make sure to select communication protocol (AZ/EL) K3NG Easycomm. Your email doesn't work.

@@Racov hi Viorel thanks for you Mr reply! I’ll try to reinstall I have full functionality except that! I really appreciate your help and support!

Hey Lavinda. UIPEthernet library is not installed. In Arduino IDE, go to library manager, search for the UIPEthernet.h and install it. Send me an email yo3rak@gmail.com if you can't make it work.

It works! Without it, I wouldn't be able to use the device.

Yes, the charger is perfect.

Check out the link în the description racov.ro/index.php/2021/08/13/antenna-construction-cross-yagi-vhf-band-6-elements-2-meters-long-circular-polarization-9db-gain/

Salutare. Nu as putea sa spun. Sfatul meu e sa cauți un tutorial pentru televizorul tău, sau ceva asemănător. Principiul e același.

@@Racov am văzut că se leagă serii de 7-8 leduri de 3v pe tensiunea de 24 de la sursă , și mai multe serii in paralel , dar reglajul luminozității nu am idee cum se poate face

Televizorul tău are tuburi CCFL si vrei sa le înlocuiești cu LED? Dacă da, atunci îți trebuie, ca în filmul meu, o sursa specială care se conectează în circuitul televizorului. Nu am idee cum, depinde de fiecare model. Și baghete LED compatibile. Dacă televizorul are iluminare LED, atunci trebuie doar sa cauți baghetele LED specifice lui. De obicei ele se alimentează undeva la 60V. Ce spui tu cu serie - paralel, nu mi se pare în regulă.