Video

No. That would have the opposite effect and make the system think the bike is going twice as fast, so the peddle assist would only work up to 12.5 kmh.

@anthonyaztiptoenailsandspa7259 Yes. I bought 2 cans but only used one.

Sounds like a shock absorber. With normal shock absorbers you can disconnect the bottom mount then see how easily it can be pushed in/out by hand. It should have some resistance. If it moves easily it's faulty. However as these shocks also provide force to lift the car I'm not sure how to check them. They would have to be completely depressurised. You may need to do some research. It may also be a problem with the valve selector that controls sport/normal/comfort settings.

Thanks a lot again for sharing @@desparky I will check that.

Our ‘13 LC 200 has the same problem. Bouncing like crazy on every road flaws. We already changed all 4 shock absorbers from Toyota but sadly the “bounce” is still there. What could be the cause? Does it need a reflush, Top up fluid,Empty on fluid or Globe? Thanks! Cheers 🍻

Did you use TWO magnets. I got an error with only one magnet. Also, this was years ago now and the Shimano firmware may be different.

The AHC won't operate if any doors are open. So I had the rear tailgate open, then selected LOW in the car before getting out. Then as I started recording I closed the rear tailgate with the remote. I also use a similar method when attaching/detaching a trailer. IE, open the tailgate, select raise or lower, get out and close driver's door with engine still running. Then I can go to the towbar and press the close button on the tailgate as I hold the trailer latch. As soon as the tailgate closes, the car raises or lowers.

Glad it helped. Cheers

No, no noise at all really.

Hey Ron. I'll try to make a video tomorrow for you.

Glad it helped. Good luck with the fix.

No, sorry.

Thanks for the extra tips in your comment. I might do an updated video the next time I change the fluid and incorporate your suggestions, or maybe you could post a video too. Either way it's good to help other people out. Enjoy your refreshed smoother ride.

Holy, Thank you for the reassurance that this needs to be performed. I've talked to a couple of shops (Toy/Lex only Indy shops) and they say "don't touch it." I think it's a matter of the old wives tale of "don't change the transmission fluid", where they are scared to do this, most likely don't have anyone that is qualified/experienced and no one that is an enthusiast, and don't want any liability. But I have some questions- 1. Do you think a 10mm crow's foot will work better? I'm more than willing to buy a 10 mm wrench and cut it short. 2. I don't understand the brake bleeder kit. I am under the impression that you simply open the bleeder screw and it drains, like a brake bleeder screw and someone has the brake depressed. I'm assuming you 'catch' the fall of the vehicle by closing the bleeder screw before it drops all the way. Please explain. Thank you again.

@@thooks1234 Just a normal 10mm spanner (wrench) worked fine. As for the "brake bleeder", I'm just referring to a long piece of tube that fits over the bleeder nipple and runs into a plastic bottle to catch the fluid. Unlike bleeding brakes where you need a person to press on the pedal to create the pressure, this system is already under pressure. You crack the bleeder and bleed the fluid off.. As you do this, the car begins to lower so you have to ensure nothing including your head or tools are under the car. If you're careful, you can slowly lower the car in a controlled manner as you let the fluid out. Then close the bleeder just as the car begins to stop lowering. This ensurers that no air gets back into the system. Also having the hose attached to the bleeder with fluid already in it will also stop air creeping back in. Good luck.

@@desparky Got it! Thanks.

Yes, that's correct. I topped up the reservoir after each bleed. From memory I may have bled the first one then ran the pump but let the reservoir get low before filling, so as to only have fresh fluid in there. Sorry, it was some time ago so I can't say for sure. Either way, just ensure that the reservoir never gets empty and allows the pump to suck air into the system. Good luck and take care. Just be really aware of the car lowering as you bleed off the accumulator pressure.

I used only one container (2.5L). Part no. TO0888601805

No, that's how this model comes from the factory. At least here in Australia.

@@desparky Thanks! They have molding with chrome on the doors here, but I'll be removing mine. I like the look without it.

@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 Where are you? Not sure if it helps, but I know you can use braided fishing line to remove badges. It might work for body mouldings too if they are held on by double sided tape. Also Isopropyl Alcohol breaks down some adhesives. Anyway, yeah the clean look on the doors does look good, but don't go too crazy trying to remove them. Some manufacturers use polyurethane adhesives. You can really damage panels trying to get them off. Maybe ask a local body repair shop. Good luck mate.

@@desparky Thanks for the detail. Have been reading the forums today. Seems that some have been successful removing them. Sadly, after 2013 the moldings are pinned to the doors, so you 'd be left with holes removing them. On my 2010 I don't have that issue. Going to start work today before putting on my 18" Land Cruiser wheels. Slowly but surely!

@@desparky I'm in the United States.

I sold the bike recently so I can't check, sorry.

The output is still the same, however the motor will be working for longer. It would be similar to the motor working if you were going uphill for a long time. I doubt you could damage it. I found that you could use the battery a lot faster if you really pushed it, but you are working pretty hard to keep the output power high for a long time. I would switch down to ECO mode most of the time and only use HIGH for extreme hills or headwind, so ultimately my battery usage was not much more than standard. I only did the speed "tuning" as an experiment, and put it back to standard after a while because I most often ride to and from work in the dark. 25kmh is fast enough in the night on a bike trail.

@@desparky mine it primarily used for commuting and a few casual rides, I mean yea it’s really fun to use but would prefer if it was just a tiny bit faster than 15.5mph(U.K. limit)

I guess if you had access to the Shimano software that you plug the bike into, you may be able to change it. However Shimano probably have the feature locked and requires permission. Who knows?

If you use only one magnet it brings up an error. The control must already know the crank speed, and the wheel sensor, that is now also on the cranks, match.

There's a button on the dashboard near your knee on the door side (on right hand drive... it may be the same on LHD). There's 3 buttons, one for the rear tail gate, one for the headlight AFS (moving headlights), and the third one that looks like a person getting out of a door is the automatic lowering function. When it's selected a symbol comes up on the dash. When you turn off the engine, the car automatically lowers, but don't open the door immediately or it will stop lowering. The car lifts up again the next time you drive and get above something like 15kmh. Cheers.

Is this the only way to fix e014

@@aleksandartodorov3695 For me it was. It seems that other have the same experience as well. Old solution settings thing back does not work.

My friend has this problem with his Shimano steps voodoo bizango e any way of getting it working again as I don’t see why the motor would have to be replaced

@@juliechadburn7907 Motor was replaced and i worked fine again. I tried all I could find on google, but nothing helped.

Make sure your magnets are definitely strong enough, and close enough to the sensor. Also ensure the magnets are a close to 180 degrees apart (directly opposite sides of the ring gear) as you can, to keep the pulse lengths even. Aside from that, the only other thing I could suggest is that you have different firmware to mine that detects your trickery. Good luck. Cheers.

Thanks Josiah. I hope it helps some people out.

I only used one can (2.5 litre). Toyota part number 08886-01805. Cheers

If you're referring to how the speed reading changes with how fast you pedal, then yes. Unfortunately that's one of the downsides of tricking the bike's speed sensing. The bike is no longer reading road speed, but now reading pedal speed, which is fairly meaningless. If you stop pedalling, the speed will read zero, and as you change gears the speed readout will change.

@@desparky Firstly, thank you very much for your attention. In fact, what I noticed is a constant change in measured speed. I believe this was because I did not stick the magnets symmetrically at the crown.

@@amaurinunes4339 Yes, that makes sense. By the way, I've since changed the rear sprocket from 21 teeth to 18 teeth. Now the top speed is around 45km/h (getting too fast for me!), but I rarely hit the speed limit of the drive now. Happy electric cycling Amauri.

Hi mate, my video shows the only work I've done on the LX570 hydraulic system. If your pump is running and the suspension not lifting I can only assume that yours may have got air in it. Have you tried filling the hydraulic reservoir and making the pump run (by selecting suspension high setting), then opening the bleeders on the accumulators (located under the side steps) to let the air escape? You also may have to bleed the air out at the shocks somehow too by carefully just cracking loose a fitting. Let us know how you go, and maybe put a video up if you manage to work it out.

No, not sure what version mine is, but it's the original firmware that came on the bike. Don't know if they can roll it back or not. Cheers.

Not sure how much more clarification you need as to where I located the magnets? As long as they are mounted anywhere that the sensor can pick them up as they pass. See here at 1:30 - czcams.com/video/m9YcULttU2c/video.html

Thanks Zed Ohh. So far I've only been making videos on stuff I've needed to do on my own car and shared the information that I've researched to help other people. I'd like to get time to do more videos in the future. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers

The drive unit would just think you're stopped and not drive the motor at all.

no magnet =no speed info= no Motor assist ;)

I'm not a Lexus/Toyota mechanic, I'm just a guy who fixes his own cars. I may be able to help, or maybe someone will know and write a comment. What was wrong and what part did you replace? Can you hear the pump running?

@@desparky Yup I believe it's the E6000, bought it in NZ a few months ago. I've tried with one magnet as well as two and both seem to trick the display into thinking it's going a lot faster than the limit, rather than slower than the limit. I'm still in my backyard seeing what I can try to do to get past that 25km/h limit. I've just tried 3 magnets arranged in a triangle around the crank and this also failed to work.

@@gamemak0r Bugger. What about trying 2 magnets 90 degrees apart (or not quite 180 degrees)? I wonder if that would work. I guess they are looking for sensor speed correlating to crank speed, or a factor of that. If the magnet trick didn't work on mine, I was going to build an electronic unit to sense the wheel speed, and emulate the signal to the wheel speed sensor input. That way I could just limit the output to a frequency that equals 24km/h. I know you can buy speed boxes, but I can build one for way less using a picaxe or arduino. Good luck trying to trick your one.

@@desparky I have an Arduino mini with a Bluetooth unit I was considering using or a raspberry pi 3. How would you go about doing it with an Arduino?

@@gamemak0r I didn't look into it because the magnets worked on mine. As an experiment I was going to buy a spare wheel speed sensor first before cutting the wiring so that I knew I could put it back to original. Then I could strip back the wires and measure the pulses from the wheel speed sensor. If it looked like it would work, I was going to connect an output to the shimano unit and feed it pulses until I got a reading on the speedo. For the input from the wheel speed sensor to an microcontroller however, you'd probably have to limit the voltage to 5 or 3.3 volts (depending on the microcontroller) with a Zener diode or something. Not sure what level the voltages to expect from the sensor. Once you've worked out what sort of pulse the shimano unit expected, then you could just send out a pulse whenever the input received a pulse, but limit the time between output pulses to keep it thinking the speed is less than 25kmh. I find picaxe a lot faster and simpler to get non critical stuff like this working, as my arduino programming skills are crap. Have fun.

Any luck? I've tried the one mag with no luck and I was about to try this mod till I read this. Everything I try throws a error after about 10k

I only used one container of fluid (2.5 litres). The container, with Toyota part numbers is a 8:32. Cheers

No, the seat is original. It maybe looks better in the video than real life. All in all though, it;s still in good shape, for leather. I put leather conditioning stuff on it a every year, not sure what the previous owner did. I'm also pretty careful to not slide out off the seat when I get out, using the handle and side step to lift myself off the seat. Every Lansdcruiser I've had, the side of the seat has worn badly. I've tried to look after this one, but the edge is still worn. BTW, I don't really like leather, and prefer cloth seats.