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Hello @tonyvillena1293, Could you please take a look at my other video on the LR6RG Laser Level Receiver? I think it will explain one way to measure vertical height. Link is here: czcams.com/video/Uir2NCBSpuc/video.htmlsi=MZDoQwYEHOX00W64

Hello @pauna7, it sounds like maybe the prism is cracked or defective. It should be a solid vertical line 360 degrees around. Since this is first time turning it on, I’m assuming it is new. Most likely you will need to return it as this is not normal. I would contact Huepar’s customer support. They are usually very responsive and should be able to help.

Hello Matt, with the laser mounted on the tripod provided support bracket, it will not go down low enough to do first row of tiles and you would have to use the laser by itself for the first row. However, there is a mod you can do to the micro adjuster bracket which could allow you to install the micro-adjuster bracket to the tripod support to allow the laser to hang down from the top below the support. Here is a link to my video on how to do that modification: czcams.com/video/MxUyJo6q_Eg/video.htmlsi=oYfOLGpBUT39uSQy

@brashair7652 Thanks for the quick answer, and wow, nice mod! That should take care of the full range of use!

Glad it was helpful!

Hello @davidsamways. Thanks so much for watching my video on how to calibrate a laser level. I have another video that explains how to check the level to determine if it needs calibration. You do NOT need to have the level perfectly level to the floor, just within 3 or 4 degrees. Please watch my video on “3D Laser Level Calibration Check and Level Accuracy”: czcams.com/video/DtkwfKgFqRE/video.htmlsi=x8spl6cxgNnknYmQ

Hello Dan, Yes it will run on a USB powerbank. When I'm using it on a project like a bathroom tile job, I'll plug in the USB charger and use it all day long.

You are absolutely right! The critical thing to remember is to maintain the same height when rotating the laser level. This is also why you want to make a mark on the wall perpendicular to the lines you are checking to ensure the laser level is not tilting when it is rotated.

It actually doesn't matter if the laser is physically level. All we really care about is the height of the laser head, which is why he draws a reference line on the side wall. (If you allow the height to change it can still be done, but it's a lot more work and gets confusing.) Now, I usually don't bother with the reference line because I know my countertop is stable; and the laser's rubber casing/feet shouldn't make any difference either. *If using a good tripod and the mount is directly below the laser head, the head height shouldn't change; but a reference line is still a good idea just to be sure. If using a flat surface, you could do a lot of math if you wanted to get really precise. But if your surface is fairly level, you'll be ok. As an example, I added a 3.07 degree slope to my Huepar by adding 4.7mm to two of the feet (about 11/16" rise per foot). At 33', adding the slope to front two feet raised the top line 1.4mm and the bottom line by .7mm; added to back feet raised the top line about 3mm and the bottom about 1.5mm (they're all different because the laser head and feet are offset from each other). But it'd be the same no matter where you measured because that is how much the the laser heads had actually been raised. But again, as Brash Air said, just make sure the head stays at the same height. It's pretty easy to tell if a countertop is level, it's not so easy to tell if anything else is.

Hello Jack. Thanks for watching my video. There is a way to rotate the laser level while in the locked manual mode and that is by using the Huepar microadjuster included with the laser level. However, the microadjuster I have requires attaching to the magnetic base since the microadjuster does not have a tripod adapter. In order to make it work, the magnetic base (steel plate) needs to be modified by adding a 1/4-20 nut to one edge of the steel plate. It's a fairly easy hack and here is a link to a video I made showing how to do it: czcams.com/video/MxUyJo6q_Eg/video.html I think Huepar may have added a tripod adapter to later versions of the microadjuster, so a modification might not be necessary.

Hi there and thanks for watching my video. I purchased this S04CG laser level myself and was not sponsored by Huepar. My reviews are totally unbiased and true. I have actually bought three of these with my own money because I really like them. I recently obtained an affiliate link through Share-a-Sale and if you do decide to buy a Huepar laser I will get a tiny commission if you click on that link first. Thanks!

Hello BNS Software. I forwarded your question to iVAC for a response. I do believe they have a product that will do what you need and you can check their website at www.ivacswitch.com to get a full explanation of their products and how to incorporate them into a system that works for you. Tom from iVAC said you can also send your questions to info@ivacswitch.com and he will answer directly.

The biggest difference is size in that a contactor is designed to handle higher current and the contact points are usually made of a more durable material. Also the cores in smaller relays are typically round armatures whereas contactors typically have “E” type laminated core windings similar to what you would see in an AC transformer. Also you’ll probably see more DC relays than AC relays and more AC contactors. The AC windings have a shaded pole to assist with offsetting the phase, and combined with the natural eddy currents in the winding will magnetically hold the contactor closed (assuming NO type contactor) when the AC phase changes direction.

You're welcome!

Hello Anders. Thanks for watching the video. The grade rod I used in this video was purchased from my local Home Depot in the US for about $32, but it is in inches. I have others in metric I use in Japan. The brand is Adir Pro and you can get the right length and measuring units if you order one from Amazon. They are made of aluminum and seem to be pretty sturdy. Here is a link to Amazon site that has them on sale right now: a.co/d/iosQpKq

@@brashair7652 No, the rod in the video is in hundredths of a foot (not in inches), but the same rod is also sold in an inch model. How can you tell? The rod in the video shows the numeral "9" (ie. 9 tenths of a foot) under each foot numeral. An inch based rod would have the numeral "11' (11 inches) under each foot numeral. We use 0.01 foot rods (as in this video) in the US for surveying (because decimals simplify the math, as in metric) but carpenters use a similar looking scale that is in inches, because hundredths of a foot isn't something they normally use. The black marks on the rod in the video are exactly 0.01 wide (you use the top and bottoms of those lines, not the center). On the inch based rods, the lines are exactly 1/8" thick, and you also use the top and bottom. The foot based (survey style) rods chop each foot into 100 parts, while the inch based rods chop each foot into 96 parts. The two types of rods look very similar, since the black lines are almost the same width. Also note that although huepar makes a great laser, the level bubble is absolute garbage (as the video shows it being used to plumb a rod that is very clearly not plumb (or, the laser level line isn't level, which is unlikely)). Use a post leveler to plumb the rod, they are cheap and very accurate. If you are in the US, I recommend the survey style foot rod, the math gets much easier (no fractions, just decimals as in metric.

Hello mo ni and thanks for watching. You should be able to tell true level by measuring exactly half the distance between opposite marks made while checking X-axis at 180 degrees to each other.

Hello Frazer20, I would assume that to be the case. I only have the Huepar S03CG and S04CG models with displays so I’m not able to check.

You know, I didn’t think so, but I tried it and it does! You have to turn on one of the vertical beams and rotate the receiver 90 degrees sideways and it will work same as in the horizontal position.

Thank you for watching the video, and yes, you are correct. At 10 meters the maximum deviation from True Level is plus OR minus 3mm, but never more than 3mm from True Level. Therefore, worst case would be one side at +3mm and other side at -3mm for combined out-of-tolerance of 6mm at 10 meters. However, I personally would be hesitant to use a laser level that far out of calibration for any interior work projects spanning large distances.

That's a really great question Ken. I don't think anyone fully understands the fluid dynamics of how the vortex works in a dust collector, but JET has been installing them in their dust collectors for quite a few years with good results, proving the filter can operate much longer without having to clean or replace it. I'll try to explain how I think it works. Basically you have several physical forces at work here. You have air pressure, velocity, centrifugal force and gravity. Ideally you want maximum airflow at high volume to remove chips and dust from your saw, planer or whatever, but a plugged filter reduces that flow. (It's also important to remember that moving high volumes of air at lower velocity is more effective than moving lower volume of air at high velocity.) Anyway, the impeller on the blower is compressing the air mixed with sawdust and directing it into the dust collector where it will lose velocity as the air exits the hose or duct from the impeller and enters the dust collector ring (between the bag and cartridge). The dust particals will either fall into the bag or rise up to the filter cartridge and eventually exit through the pleats in the cartridge. As the dust from the blower dumps into the dust collector bag assembly it essentially acts like a divergent duct and velocity decreases as pressure increases. Now here's where things get interesting. You want the chips and maximum amount of dust particles to settle to the bottom of the bag and "cleaner" air to rise up to the filter. That's why bag type dust collectors have a baffle to help keep larger particles towards the bottom, but there is still an opening in the middle the size of a large dinner plate where larger particles can still flow upwards to the filter. What I believe the vortex cone does is two things. One, it keeps the cross-section of the space between the baffle and the cone reduced to maintain the high velocity airflow longer which in turn keeps the dust particles spinning around the sides of the bag by centrifugal force and directed downwards with the help of gravity trapping bigger particles at the bottom; and two, it creates a smaller passageway for the dust particles to escape up to the cartridge side of the dust collector. The longer you can keep the sawdust spinning around the bottom (bag side), the more chance for the dust particles to settle out and fewer particles getting up to the filter.