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@PIRUSQUAD the inspection light in Volkswagen vehicles is a general check over of the vehicle set on a millage interval from factory. Different millages are for different checks. The oil change light is for oil change intervals but would recommend changing every 8,000km on synthetic oil gas engine, instead of the manufacture interval of 18,000km if your vehicle is on the 18,000km interval. If you are referring to a yearly or by yearly inspection set by the provincial gov or state gov. This light has nothing to do with that the gov inspection tag or papers. This light is a maintenance reminder light to check over vehicle to make sure nothing is falling off or any things that may be required to do at that time. Hope this helps

@@LUCAMTire not really,I live in America and I live in Ohio and to pass an e check so you can drive the car legally on the road you have to pass what is called a e check,but if you have a check Engine light on they will fail you. So I’m asking if I do this trick will the code that made my check engine light come on pop up?

@HarnessedGnat happy it helped. I am no plumber by all means but turned out simple enough. Thanks for watching and happy you got it fixed.

Just to replace the fuel filter? or are they performing a oil change at the same time. IF the oil change is in there it would be around the $475 range. plus tax I am assuming at dealer. Depending on there labor rate, and cost of parts. Fuel filter job calls for a hour labor by itself. $100 ball park Oil for these trucks is around $25-$30 a Liter taking 7L $200 for 0w20 Dexos light duty diesel oil. Oil Filter price 20 Fuel Filter $75 And Labor on oil change 0.5hr $50 ish A shop supply fee - rags - cleaners - power etc. 20$? or so depending how they calculate shop supply fee. For just a fuel filter that seems to be a steep price. If they are preforming a oil change at the same time the pricing sounds about right.

your welcome

@@choochoo8240 your welcome 🙏

Normally I snow blow with a walk behind Arians 28" Deluxe. The Arians walk behind snow blower makes this john deer set up look horrible for doing my drive way. The john deer tractor setup would be great for a long flat drive way with no slopes. My drive way is to sloped for the john deer set up and gets stuck easy. Not the best set up for going through the bank at the road. I normally like waiting for the storm to accumulate to see what the Arians can do but this day the neighbor said make a video with the john deer to see how I like it as I was thinking of putting a blower on mine. I quickly made up my decision on not to get a blower for my tractor due to the style of drive way I have. The walk behind Arians blower I have makes this john deer set up look bad. Each blower has there category of where to be used. The garage would be a good spot for the vehicles during a snow storm but I have other things stored in there. I bought and was about to put up a pop up shelter for the extra's but the city wanted to know how it was going to be secured, the brand, the serial number. the size, to be able to put up my taxes. The pop up shelter got returned. lol I pay enough as it is. The vehicles are ok sleeping outside. hahaha

@@danielpadgett2831 😂 hahaha

@AMF96 could be a 5000 mile or 8,000km interval. You can scroll through the dash and see if there is a oil life percentage meter. Should be a percentage rating on when to change the oil in the instrument cluster. Thinking it is a 5000 mile interval.

@@chloezapata4152 it has been a good splitter for me so far. It is not overly fast but has done the trick well. I would suggest getting a stand or putting on a table so you are not working on the ground.

@xandrag8004 I appreciate you watching. Make sure to click the like button if you havent already to help others find this video easier. Feel free to click the subscribe button as well 😉

@jshvjshv7322 no problem thanks for watching 😊

Why does this happen though? Curious

@@jaquelyngonzalez8744 thanks for sharing your feedback. Thanks for watching.

@@user-gc4gm9sg6k oil change light reset on the vw, czcams.com/video/knQlY3alKcg/video.htmlsi=8GIbsiu7l0cYjyzU

@@user-gc4gm9sg6k Oil Change reset on the vw czcams.com/video/knQlY3alKcg/video.htmlsi=8GIbsiu7l0cYjyzU

@MusicNinja12345 yes it is. They are governered at 65 mph which is around 105-107 km hr

@nonamebleach should be able to as long as the water valves (taps) are turned off.

@@LUCAMTire thanks! I was able to do the repair. Quick and easy.

One exception - mine is a single larger piece of chrome with spout, and to get it off - I think - I needed to remove the hot & cold valves first. For sure needed to remove the strainer in the middle. It was close - it's possible that the holding rings surrounding the valves might actually come off with valves in place. I wish I had tried that first. Anyway, I found shutoffs nearby and it's all good.

Could be a different trim package for vehicle. Gas brake peddle method works as well I believe for this vehicle.

We have ice and snow and temperatures that fall below freezing.. So we need to winterize our units to store for winter. Preserves them from rusting and corrosion and making sure things are cleaned up and dried out from water to not freeze for the 6 months they are stored before we can Use them again. Just a maintenance thing for storage really.

Thanks for the replay. We have a lot of fun on the jet ski,

That's no fun. Prolly going to investigate into the problem further. Would be interested in knowing what you figure out.

Your welcome

Thanks for watching.

Your welcome. Thanks for watching.

If you have access to a good scan tool you can read the live data of the o2 sensors to see if one is being lazy. Or take a multi meter to check the ohms readings. Also there is crank case ventilation that goes from valve cover to intake. I have found hair line cracks in the elbow fittings that does not throw a code. I Could hear some hissing when engine was running while under hood. Something to possibly check. Dirty air filter or dirty fuel filter. I know some times it is a Hassel but would check for a vacuum leek. Could be the situation?

@@LUCAMTire Well MAF is cleaned and upstream O2 sensors are changed. Man that harness routing is a total PITA, especially getting that plug push in clip undone . The result is that it actually seemed to get WORSE!?!? Yesterday at lunch was a new low. 6.4 mpg!! I was able to get it into the 8-9 range by being a feather foot. Yesterday I ordered a new set of coils which should be here today. So can you check like old school for vacuum leaks? Spray can of WD40 or carb cleaner and listen for any changes. Where is a good spot to get a full vacuum signal from for a gauge? What should the vacuum be at idle?

The thing that's really ticking me off as it seems to run really well, no missing, sputtering, or codes at all. I even checked it even thought the light wasn't on. Of course, nothing. Is it possible that the mpg meter is faulty??

Air filter is a K&N and clean. I have read the fuel filter is supposed to be lifetime and is mounted in the tank?

I am pretty sure they mentioned it in the adds but never actually updated the system to work with rideology.. it has been a couple years and I never got a letter for the update to have it. I am thinking they will not do it even though it is compatible. Probably a law or breach of privacy they are not doing it.

That isnl correct

Should not need to pull the cv shaft to change ball joint? The ball joint can be pressed out and new one pressed in but it is not worth it. Your better off replacing the control arm. The control arm is so thin that when you press out the old and new the hole expands and then the ball joint is not pressed In nice and tight. I have seen more ball joints that a slipping in the control arm after replacement it's not even funny anymore. Replace control arm, you will have new bushings, arm and ball joint. Should be good for another 100k as long as your not installing the cheapest thing on the market. Get something decent the first tike round and do the job once.

Thanks for the advice, I just got it too late! LOL. The CV axle was bad so that's what I set out to fix. The OEM ball joint was perfectly fine until I accidentally tore the boot. I didn't notice a bur on my pickle fork and it caught the boot. Turns out there's a bad gear in the tranny, and that's what caused the rapid clicking noise that sounds just like a bad CV joint, but it did it every time I let off the gas. Didn't start out when making turns.

@dumbluck6180 for the lower ball joint. From what I remember on those you can use a chisel and expand the collar where the pinch bolt goes throw. Then take a hammer and hit on the control arm with some one prying down on the other side to pull the ball joint out of the spindle. Would save from using a pickle fork. I find a pickle fork always busts the boot.. For cv shaft normally clicks when turning. Very seldom in a straight line unless real bad. First time hearing of bad gears on those transmissions. But I do not normally get the phone call for transmission work as I am not a transmission shop. But understood they were pretty Tuff transmissions. Hope you get er figured out. Thanks for watching

Everything you said is true! I just had a brain fart that day. On the other side, just pushing down on the control arm easily got the ball joint disconnected. Didn't even need to widen the slot with a chisel. The tranny shop said they rarely see this problem on these Mazda 3 trannys... More bad luck --rebuilt tranny arrived but somewhere along the way a forklift tine went straight thru the crate and tranny case! Waiting on the replacement. Ugh!

And I have the vats deleted but have trouble with no brake lights, no dome light and the retained auxiliary power does not work

2000 zr2 s10 truck