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LOL! Yes - Tornado intake! Manufacturers still sell products like that and people still buy. Fact is, I know that is exactly how a lot of people see this modification. I don't blame them. So what makes this different? - This replaces a factory straightener in the same location, not adding something extra to the intake. - This is specific to one platform, one engine (VQ40). Not something generalized. This was an accidental discovery to begin with - and other engines don't have straighteners behind the throttle body. - I am continuing to request fuel economy info from people using these and documenting the data. So far, I've had one person report seeing absolutely zero improvement despite expectations. - This is repeatable, duplicated, and documented knowledge I'm sharing for free, making it extremely clear that this does NOT work for everyone and improvement varies. - Most of all.... I'm not trying to sell anything and so I have no investment in convincing people of something. I encourage people to build their own if interested. I genuinely wish someone with more resources and knowledge would take a VQ40, perform flow tests, and gather data in a "laboratory" setting. All I've been able to do is measure fuel economy changes and intake air pressure at certain points in the system using a manometer. But running the manometer has not been done in a controlled environment so....

As I recall, I used the simple hack of a large socket (just a size or two larger than the bushing), run a long bolt with a washer through the center, then add a nut with washer on the other side - against the bushing. As you tighten down the nut, it will squeeze the bushing through and out the other side, into the socket. Or at least to the point you can just pull it out. Installing the new bushing is done essentially the same way, but you don't need the socket as much. At least not to get it started. Something that tends to get missed - I know I have when doing this job - is grinding off the "barbed" protrusions on the inner portion of the lower shock mount/lower control arm. These dig into the bushings and can tear/destroy them prematurely. So take a file or CAREFULLY with an angle grinder and take those down then spray a coat of paint for rust prevention.

Just saw your forum post. Been out of cell service this last weekend and only now getting caught up. I responded there, but for others who may see this, it appears you have demonstrated that reports the rear rotors are identical between vehicles is incorrect. The Pathfinder rear rotors are indeed larger by the measurements (images) you posted. This means the caliper brackets are different. The calipers are also likely different. Thank you for showing there is a difference and posting good info about it!!

No, the SPC use their own proprietary ball joint which is specific to their arms, which allows them to be adjustable. It's what makes them unique. All Dogs Off-road offers upper control arms which have built in correction already and use the ball joint from a Nissan Titan.

Thanks 🙏

I'd really like to see one someone else has done!No one has sent me images of a modified version they've done yet.

They are actually a decent headlight replacement option for the 2.5 gen (facelift) Frontier.

As I recall (and I just had both brackets off the truck a few days ago), the brackets appear identical. However, regarding what I did... each caliper came with it's own bracket, so when I installed the "L" caliper on the right (passenger) side of the vehicle, I kept the same bracket with the caliper. I do recall looking at the brackets recently and neither one of mine had an "L" or "R" indication on them. I also recall specifically thinking they looked symmetrical, meaning they would be identical. I would be interested in you looking at your caliper brackets and confirming if either of the are marked "L" or "R" and whether they are symmetrical or offset to one side.

@@blackrocknissan I guess I’ll be scrutinizing them today when I go to install them after work 🤣. I just glanced at them but I know from measuring the Frontier brackets had a long and short side so I was wondering if the Pathfinder ones did too. 🧐

Harbor Freight - Icon, Long Jaw Master Puller set. It just looked like it wanted to be the tool for this job, and it was. Though, it did require several instances of re-aligning everything, keeping the hooks in position and such. Overall, I felt it make much quicker work of the bushings than anything else I had. But for the cost of this kit, it's not worth it for this job alone - $220+ I also did not find this Puller set helpful when re-installing the new bushings...hence the hammer method. LOL!

That is a quite interesting idea and I see exactly how that works! However, how is the wax to remove from the material? Because that stuff can clump and stick in corners, I can see it making cleanup a hassle.

@@blackrocknissan if you use a heat gun and put it on like a paper towel or something thatll pull it once its melted it should be good. Wax melts fairly quickly so you should be good brother

Being the prototype, this is not yet available. This is testing of their prototype to ensure that the LSD will fit and operate in the c200k without issues before bringing it into production. All Dogs Off-Road has communicated anticipation it should be available later this summer. But contact them for specifics.

They are and aren't separate. LOL! What I mean is that Nissan uses the ABS system as part of traction control. Traction control has two components. The first is to cut engine power when the system reads (via the abs/wheel speed sensors at each wheel) that a wheel is spinning. The second part is that it activates the abs system - applying the brakes specific to the wheel(s) that are spinning to slow them down in order to regain traction. When you turn traction control off, all you can actually disable is the component that decreases engine power. The ABS aspect will always remain in effect as long as the system has power. My intention in the video was to discuss traction control as the system that is activating as a whole, and identification of ABS as the specific component of the system activating.

Magnaflow, stainless steel. They are a flow-through design with a "packed" (insulated) case for sound deadening of the exhaust note. Part of the Magnaflow cat-back system for the 2nd gen Nissan Frontier.

@@blackrocknissan Okay, I was thinking about putting a Borla on my frontier

Oh My Gosh - It's Horrible! The easiest way I found is to either use a connector release tool, which is sort of hard to describe. It's like needle nose pliers, but on one side it's flat and the other side has a "hook" ("L" shape) that presses into the clip. Allows you to get a good grip, wiggle, and pull it apart. Most people don't have anything like that - I even lost mine. so what I use is a short, stubby, straight screwdriver. Press the tip of the screwdriver just in front of the clip part, so the screwdriver will sit between the clip and the female portion of the plug. Push in with the screwdriver to depress the clip and then twist the screwdriver to separate the male and female parts of the plug. You have have to use your other had to hold the lug and keep it from rotating as you do this. You will notice a good amount of dirt/dust inside the plug. Take a moment and clean it before reconnecting.

Thank you!

Let me know if you have any trouble reaching Ed with Nutty World Graphics!

They are the OE axles, not the "value" versions (though I do keep a set of the value axles just in case for when off-roading). I was right around 99k miles and these were the original axles that I've off-roaded with and been running 35" tires up until I was stupid and ran my locker in 4hi - which destroyed them both. So I figure if they've held up that well, I'd keep with OE and just ensure I make better decisions in the future to avoid breaking things! LOL!!

I typically map all my rides and this was regretfully one that I failed to map via OnX. OnX takes you the main trail and there area several off shoots. I recall specifically having to scout out the route for the group to ensure we were on the right track (to avoid taking the whole group down the trail and potentially having to turn everyone around) then the area by the lake was a maze were we got turned around a couple times. How extremely narrow the trails are near the lake only added to making it easy to get turned around. Simply put - yes, you have to take trials off the main 16 Creeks map for both locations. Again, sadly, having failed to map the route, I don't have it to offer. If you are a member of Only Rigs, Venture Unknown, or any other local groups, those routes should exist within those members/admins. Sorry I can't be of more help.

I've not heard guys having that kind of experience, even with off road abuse. Given they were under warranty, did SPC replace them? Did you stick with them - if not - what UCA did you go with? Z1? ADO?

Things are so challenging to diagnose online. But to provide some options to explore... What you describe seems like possibly a brake related noise. Possibly brake shield or I have seen the tabs on the metal seats the brake pads set into, get bent and rub against the rotor, but that would be more a squeal. I've not seen that on a Frontier, but I have seen it on other vehicles. The point is do a thorough inspection, starting by safely scotching, then jacking up the vehicle. Remove the wheel. Spin the rotor and see if you can pin down the noise. Remove one piece at a time. Remove the caliper, the pads. Spinning the rotor each time to see if the noise is still there and inspecting for possible causes. This would be a good opportunity to inspect the front end for other wear as well, such as wheel bearings. I have seen failing wheel bearings cause the front wheel to lean in and put constant pressure on one section of the brake pad - not only causing abnormal pad wear, but a "swish" or "scuffing" noise. CV will make a "popping" noise when they wear and are failing - especially when turning the front wheels. They could also make a "clanking" noise such as the in my situation where I had a sudden and complete catastrophic failure. I will be doing another video on this, showing the internal failure of mine. However there are likely other videos that show the inner workings. But they are basically a shaft with a small gear on the end, set inside a housing with larger gear design on the inside. The shaft and housing are held in place together and function to transfer power by ball bearings that fit in the valleys of the shaft and housing "gear". This allows everything to rotate but also move for suspension travel and steering. When these go bad, they "pop" as the bearings and valleys (grooves) wear, allowing the shaft, bearings, and housing to move more independently of one another and can sometimes bind up. They may even be slopping around inside the housing. "Teeth" of the gears can wear and chip/break so that can add to the issue and contribute to the noise as well. Catastrophic failure is when those components completely come apart, which is what happened for me. All my bearing were spun out from between the gears and the shaft was just banging around inside the housing on both sides as I drove home.

I put the link in the description. Let me know if you have any problems with it working. facebook.com/NuttyWorldGraphics

And since the video, it has continued to perform exceptionally. I just got back from a 14hr round trip tow fest, hauling 5k lbs (including trailer) through the NC/TN mountains and the transmission behaved and performed phenomenally! No over heating. No slipping - even up the loooooong grades. At one point I was only able to go 45mph, but everything was chugging right along. In fact, I monitored having the truck in overdrive....which is typically a No No. But on level patches of interstate, it wasn't a problem. When I knew I was approaching a grade, I would go ahead and kick it out of OD and many times it would not need to further down shift, then I'd re-apply OD on the other side and sail on. Of course it's worth mentioning that I have power mods and UPREV tuned, so that does play a role in everything.

If you are in Asheville, you are just over the mountain from most of our rides in the Tri-city area, Virginia, Kentucky, etc. Look up and join OnlyRigs423 on Facebook and you will get info about all the upcoming rides. Members can host rides whenever they want as well.

@@blackrocknissan nice!! I'll do that for sure!

If we were to calculate getting out all the tools, lifting vehicle and removing tire all the way to replacing wheel and lowering - roughly 35 to 40 minutes per side. Of course, there were no bolts that were rusted and everything came apart easily, so that sped things along nicely.

@blackrocknissan thanks. Mine needs replacing, so I'm just wondering what the boys will charge timewise.

That has been recommended, and I think it could be done! I think someone should try it. If anyone has a 3D printer and wants to step up, the way I see it - it benefits the community and they have my full support! Personally, not in it for the money and barely got the time to do the stuff I want to do! LOL!! Just sharing what I've found and ask that anyone running them continue to provide feedback about their economy to further add to the knowledge about what trucks benefit and under which circumstances.

LOL! I died inside just a bit turning around knowing how close I was, but I felt it was the right decision. I couldn't rely on my son or wife to spot and I recognized I was over loaded heavy (we had just refilled our 13 gal water tank and 7 gal of water reserves - so 20 gal of water plus full tank of gas and 5 extra gal of fuel, recovery gear, spare parts, etc). Several hundred pounds I could have shed before entering the trail with better planning. I own that. I was aired down into the teens, but without a doubt could have aired down further for the trail or even just that obstacle.

We plan to go back again this year.

It's an SV loaded with sunroof, tow package, etc. I did add a Harrop front e-locker to the r180 before this trip. It was engaged, but I feel a rear locker would have been a huge added benefit.

​@@blackrocknissan did you let any air out? If you do get a rear locker there's nothing that thing won't climb. That's going to be something. I think your channel will grow when you start getting more riding videos up.

@@johnnyreb1475 I had aired down to about 18lbs. Given my weight, that's where I wanted to start on this trail. I could have gone done to 12lbs and climbed that obstacle, but I think that would have been pushing it with my weight. I've run 12psi when a lot lighter and there is a tremendous amount of sidewall flex and I've already de-beaded once at that pressure on similar terrain.

​@@blackrocknissan I'm not going to keep pestering with comments but I really do like your truck I'd love to have mine set up like that. I like the color too. Last question did you install the locker or have it done, if so what do they charge to install? Oh and what size tires do you have?

@@johnnyreb1475 Ask away - This is what I want this channel to be about! I know enough to be stupid about shimming and gear alignment. I don't have the knowledge or the tools to get the mesh and back lash right. I could buy them and learn, but I just don't have the need to do that kind of work often enough to justify the cost nor do I have the space to store them. It's more cost effective to have someone else do it with the equipment and experience to get it done in a few hours. Shims did have to be adjusted to get everything properly aligned. So it's definitely a good thing I left it to the experts or I would have messed it up! As I recall, labor with new fluid was about $550. That was with me installing all the electrical for the switch before hand. So all they had to do was install the locker and route the connector down from the relay to the locker.

It's a 2nd Gen Frontier. 2005-2021 pretty much all the same with minor differences with the exception of the new 3.8 engine and 9sp transmission in 2020 and 2021.

Believe it or not, that is actually a bit more difficult to answer than you would think. The stamp on my lens read "Eagle Eyes" but was not the "brand name" that I bought them under. I believe Eagle Eyes may be the original manufacturer and then others sell them under their name. I did a quick search to see how many names came up. Eagle Eyes and Venom (both on ebay), then Akkon, Acanii, and AmeriLite (Amazon).

Looks like typical filthy chrome on a daily driver that needs cleaning and a polish.

Bumpus Cove has season closures (like many in the area) beginning December 20. The trail is open this weekend - that last for 2023. There is a trail ride with the local group, Only Rigs, Sunday 12/17/23. I know it is short notice, but we are meeting in Erwin off the Jonesborough exit (Exit 37) at the Food City at 9:30am and then heading to the trail at 9:45am. It looks like roughly 45 minute drive for you to the meeting spot. Hope you can join us!

A 2011 Pathfinder shares the same emblem as well, it will fit! It is the same "bodystyle" as the second generation Frontier. Ed at Nutty World Graphics also has the complete list of Nissan vehicles that share this same emblem, so he can also confirm as well.

It's difficult to say with any certainty. The goal for modifying the intake should be to eliminate inefficiencies that exist. Is the butterfly of the throttle body always going to cause turbulence? Outside of being fully closed or fully open, yes. But what happens to the air afterward as it travels through the intake? It could be that your manifold does a fairly good job at working that turbulence out. I genuinely happened upon the results of this air-screen mod by accident, just messing around. My recommendation: If you can incorporate an MRP air-screen, securing it in a way as to avoid damaging your intake system, then try it! It's cheap and regardless of the outcome, you're going to learn something. Either 1) The airflow after the throttle body is not an area of inefficiency. or 2) It is an area of inefficiency and you discover some level of improvement. Both outcomes offer knowledge you can then share with your community!

@blackrocknissan Great Idea I'm going to try it by going to junkyard and find something I can modify to see if it works/ meg's basically what effects it does. Once again Thank You. I'll keep you posted on my findings & results Yazmin

At this point, six years of fuel economy data, independent testing on multiple vehicles across the US, back to back comparison with it installed and then removed, and the fact that it's shown (and acknowledged) to not work for all setups demonstrate it's not bunk. That translates into actual research and data trumping opinion every time. The only legitimate question and criticism is, whether the time and investment to build one is worth 1-2mpg improvement in fuel economy? At what point does it pay off?

I am confident the emblem is different for the new body style but have not done a direct comparison to say for sure. Contact Ed and see if he would be willing to work on one..... that would be fantastic!!

@blackrocknissan your completely correct that the badging is different. I don't have fb and his website isn't up and running yet. Could you put him in contact with me please?

@@jasenswick7725 Check the link in the description which should match the link below. Link in the description was updated a while back and takes you to his Facebook page. Contact him through there. He's a one man operation I've done business with for years and who has served several Nissan communities (Maxima, Altima, Z communities/forums and Facebook pages) for even longer. Let me know if you have any further trouble. facebook.com/NuttyWorldGraphics

I tend to just stay low key. Share what videos I can on the forums if it seems relevant. Self-promotion really hasn't been a goal and something I definitely don't have time for. I barely have time to edit the content I have and get them uploaded but do what I can. I try to focus on what I hope people will find helpful or what people reach out and ask for. So I'm glad you've found something helpful in the content here!! Otherwise, the off-roading videos are more for me, my family, and our friends to record our adventures and time together. Certainly, if others can enjoy, that's an added cherry on top!

It was actually a lot more than a scrape. The driver side raised up as I went through that section, kicking the passenger roof line to the right. So while there was some scraping, the shift caused a good crease/dent along the roof line above the doors. the Raptor Liner was barely affected..... until winter. When the sheet metal shrank and caused the Raptor Liner to crack. Because this had to be repaired, I went ahead and had the same body shop install my Prinsu roof rack at the same time to save me the trouble. So that has been the main lesson with having a vehicle lined - any meaningful dent will most likely result in the liner cracking come winter. I have also learned of a very cheap stop-gap "fix" until the crack can be repaired. Using 2-3 layers of liquid electrical tape. Seals the area up water tight, dries hard, dries fast, closely matches the color, and is moderately durable. I've had a spot on my bed "patched" with liquid electrical tape for easily 6-8 months and it has not even started to degrade, sluff, or fall off the truck.

Metal is a possibility. These were something I simply came across and wanted to give them a try. They have held up superbly. Too bad the person who made them, no longer sells them. But I can say for sure, I have not had a single one break or pull through the door panel - not even the one holding the fire extinguisher. So IMO, if they are quality made, either can be an option. Considerations to be made will always be weight and cost. There are high quality panels out there made specifically for our vehicle, that fit the shape of the door panel opening.

Sorry for the delay - I've been out of state on vacation. Ed (Nutty World Graphics) is, and has been open for business. I thought I had corrected the Facebook page - but will go back to ensure that the correct one is linked! facebook.com/NuttyWorldGraphics Also, the owner posted below: Ed Mendoza.

I know. I have GOT to stop using my phone to record anything!

@@blackrocknissan was talking about midland mic. I have this radio and the mic is trash. Replaced it with something better

@@Gta2O13 Gotcha - Appreciate the clarification! No doubt there are better mics. But I do know having used CB, some mics do better for some rather than others given how loud a person speaks into the mic, their vocal tone, and the extent of background noise (which I'd speculate is the likely issue). Probably why It's not been an issue for me or anyone I've communicated with who also runs one. I don't assume this is something Midland has fixed. In fact, didn't Midland come out with a Mic specific for farmers to improve vocal clarify due to high background noise? So I'll definitely look into it! Speculating, as long as you transmit in absence of a lot of background noise you should be good (which has been my experience). Otherwise, I understand you to say even with a good signal, the transmission will be distorted. Thank you!

@@blackrocknissan the midland mic sounds like talking into a tin can

Regretfully, I am all out of materials. Getting oem straighteners has been the main barrier, as everything else I can get easily. I've got a waiting list of guys and can add you to that if you would like to email me. I think it's also good to have a conversation about whether this would work for you given your mods and how you drive your vehicle. I continue efforts to accrue data and, as indicated in the video, not everyone is going to benefit.

Opening up the intake pathway isn't the simple solution to power some people believe it to be and can actually cause a LOSS in power by slowing the velocity of air traveling through the system. You WANT good air velocity coming into the engine and there are things that seem like "tricks" but are actually scientifically proven to work. In fact, what we are discussing here applies to HVAC - lots of videos demonstrating how straighteners and similar setups are necessary in duct work for that industry - I encourage you to go check some out! They are often really interesting! Although the air screen at face value takes up some volume of air, 1) its minimal 2) the volume taken is more than made up for by the effectiveness of the job it performs. Turbulence is inefficiency and slows air down. A larger intake doesn't decrease turbulence but the air straightener does. So while it seems like trickery and magic, you actually get increased air flow. So there's more air into the engine with a straightener than without one. Sometimes you can effectively straighten airflow without a screen by using something I bet everyone has at least seen and possibly had on their vehicle at some point - a bellmouth. Typically these attach to the intake and then hold the cone filter in place. Yes, these are an intentional design as well. Think of them as an on ramp to the air-intake highway! It helps stabilize the air particles as they move from a larger area to a smaller area inside the intake pipe, and force them to do so in a neat and organized manner = smoothing airflow. But sometimes air is so turbulent, like after the throttle body, that something else is needed to smooth airflow and keep air velocity high = air screen.

@@blackrocknissan _"Opening up the intake pathway isn't the simple solution to power some people believe it to be.."_ <~ *I think it is fairly easy for people to understand that professional sprinters should not wear mouth guards....and that it's easy to remove material that restricts air flow.* _"..and can actually cause a LOSS in power by slowing the velocity of air traveling through the system."_ <~ There is NO WAY the removal of an air straightener would slow air down. Quite the opposite. A professional sprinter might increase the speed of air passing through a drinking straw by using it whilst running...but he is going to die from lack of enough oxygen if he makes the foolish mistake of sacraficing VOLUME for SPEED. *It's the VOLUME of oxygen that matters more.* _"In fact, what we are discussing here applies to HVAC.."_ <~ *A car engine is better described as a professional sprinter, than an HVAC system.* And turbulence is a necessary requirement for good fuel vaporization. Liquid fuel does not burn. Modern cars are NOT designed to be efficient for the consumers...but rather for the producers. _"Although the air screen at face value takes up some volume of air,.."_ <~ 1) It most certainly is NOT "minimal". The amount of space taken up by the screen material is significant as a percentage of the circumference of the intake.....it actually SLOWS the air whilst straightening it. 2) The straightened air has more to do with evening out the pressure pattern of the incoming air, than it has to do with speed. *The screen SLOWS the air, but smooths out the pressure zones across the circumference.* _"It helps stabilize the air particles as they move from a larger area to a smaller area inside the intake pipe, and force them to do so in a neat and organized manner = smoothing airflow."_ <~ CORRECT! It has nothing to do with speed, or efficiency of fuel use. It actually reduces efficiency of MPG. It's all about smoothing the air flow. But this hurts vaproization, and leads to more liquid fuel making out the tail pipe. *I HIGHLY RECOMMEND PEOPLE REMOVE THESE BREATHING INHIBITORS !!*

No, sorry. Just the facelift 2009 through 2021 2nd gen Frontier and associated model Pathfinder.

Absolutely! IMO, the projectors come with halogen bulbs, making them barely an improvement over factory right out of the box. Upgrading the bulbs with a decent LED makes them meaningfully better than stock for low and high beams. I'm not interested in fighting the LED battle anymore. I either buy a premium bulb I can trust the specs or will stick with HID (which I already have multiple ballasts and may only have to purchase new bulb sizes). So for me, HID in these low beams have been consistently good. I'd rate them "moderate" level performers, especially compared to the Morimoto D2S projectors I had retrofitted previously, which had exceptional light output! But with these, I've never felt like I couldn't see the road or the lighting was insufficient. There is a guy on the Facebook Frontier pages who retrofitted a quality aftermarket 2.5" projector (I don't recall the brand) and the light output was improved. So even if you wanted to start out with these and a good LED, you can save up some money (projectors to retrofit aren't horribly expensive) and upgrade. I'm very pleased with my purchase of these lights! Let me know if you have any specific questions about them.

@blackrocknissan May I ask if there's a difference in the lighting while selecting the housing of the headlights? I see that there are two types of headlights like yours. The headlights with chrome housing and those with matte black. Will one last more than the other? Or will one produce the cover of the headlights to fog with time?

@@jorgecervantespartida8929 It appears all these headlights, regardless what business they are sold under, are all manufactured by the same company. They appear to be a quality headlight housing. There has been no difference identified in light output between any of theses style headlights. All the projectors used inside the housings appear to be identical. - So no difference between the ones sold by different businesses. - No difference between chrome vs black housings. - No difference between the housings with "C" style LED vs alternate parallel LED's at top and bottom. I do not have any knowledge for one design to last longer than the other. There is nothing to suggest the design of the headlights will cause the clear lens to fog. However, I think it is worth noting that these are should be considered "affordable" aftermarket headlight housings. For that reason, it should be expected that the quality of plastic and UV resistant coating applied to the cover is lower quality. As such, it is my opinion if you leave them exposed to a significant amount of sunlight, sand, dust, etc - it will cause the coating to erode quickly and the lens will deteriorate and fog within a few short years. Please keep in mind that is ONLY a guess as these have not been out that long yet. But just based on similar aftermarket offerings, that is the kind of lifespan of lenses we have seen.... Especially if you do not keep them clean and maintain a UV polish (ie PlastX or something similar) to help protect them. Just think of it like sun screen for when you go to the beach. Keep them treated every 3-6 months (depending how harsh an environment you subject them to) you should get a 2+ more years out of them before you need to refinish them.

Getting oem housing to modify has been a challenge lately. Regretfully, I do not have any units to modify and am out of the MRP aluminum air screens as well. You can email me. I keep a list and whenever I have materials to build more, I reach out to see if those individuals are still interested.

@@blackrocknissan what is the email?

@@RPA.Tijuana mxmumpwr@aol.com Yeah, aol still exists. LOL! It's my 25 year old email from when I first got my '87 Maxima. Had a long line of Maximas actually before the Frontier.