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Thanks for your comment, are you asking why this is happening?

@@HomeownerDIY yes , I think it would be the distributor cap and rotor but not sure

Its not the distributor cap/rotor. The distributor is run off the cam shaft. Its more than likely an electrical problem,either the ECU or one of the sensors is giving the wrong info to the ECU.

Thanks for your comment, yes you would think a drain plug would be common sense. I think its a way to discourage people from trying to do it themselves.

Thanks for your question, are you talking potable water or drainage?

Thanks for your question, is there enough room for your fingers to operate the buttons with door closed when the unit is pushed back?

Good luck sir!! If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask!

Thanks for your comment, if you have a weak spark it sounds like the coil as it changes battery voltage to 50,000 volts for the spark to occur. If you have any questions, please dont hesitate to ask!

Thanks for the comment, there is an expansion tank above the water heater but it was so poorly done that it wasnt doing anything. Stay tuned for that video.

Thanks for your question, by our local code 1 shower head requires minimum pipe size 1.5". So this drain is fine based on our code here.

Thanks for your question, water meters are being brought in now. When l filmed this video the water box l showed didnt have a meter. Last year they upgraded the sewer and watermain putting in a meter box. No meter is in yet but it will be coming. This house is older, so unless they are doing work to dig every house up at the sametime, the cost is too much just to put in a meter for every house. Hope that helps.

Did everything work out for you?

Not a professional tip? Of course not, its a DIY channel. Should l break into the guys house to do your idea of a professional repair?

Thanks for your comment, do you know how big this section is? It can 20 feet long. If this was much more labour intensive, l would of considered replacing the section.

Thanks for your comment, if you went through that much it sounds like a new mower would been easier hahaha!! Its part of learning. The parts for the mower arent expensive but how much time and effort is needed? Take the experience and apply it to the next job!

If you have any questions please let me know. Also, the switch maybe full of sawdust that is why it could be not making contact. You can try taking the switch apart before buying a new one.

Happy my video helped you!!

eReplacement parts is where l get parts for my mower from.

Thanks for your question, the part shown in the video was like $40 Canadian. I would suggest buying the element with fuse. That way when the element goes you have it on hand. For $40 for the element+fuse, it makes no sense not to just buy the whole and save the extra parts for later on. This is the second time on this unit the element had to be changed in like 5 years. Hope that helps.

@@HomeownerDIY thanks for the response. What are the specific part numbers? I can't find anything online that matches this dryer model. All I'm finding is an assembly for Samsung dryers (DC97-14486A). But I can't confirm if that will in fact work with my Kenmore dryer. Also, that assembly seems to come with different components depending on what vendor you get it from on Amazon (e.g. in some cases the fuses have different part numbers).

The thermal fuse part number: 3977393 As per amazon.ca where the part was bought from.

@@HomeownerDIY thanks!

Thanks for your comment, l think the plastic ones are designed to break. I have had Ridgid, Bow cutters, expensive and they didnt last very long. The Rok that l have is a low end brand that has actually lasted the longest. Just dont cut on the barb of the fitting!!

Thanks for you question, a half inch l think is fine, do you notice any burn marks or pitting where the brushes and commutator meet? Is there a lot of debris in the mower that can cause the brushes to make intermittent contact?

@@HomeownerDIY The ends were abit black and curved, but no pitting. When I removed the hood over the motor area, I was surprised to see so much leaves/grass packed in there, but the motor itself looked okay, just a couple small cobwebs that weren't big enough to stop anything. The motor turns freely with the blade. Is there a way to test the brushes to see if power is getting to them? My impression is the electricity turns them into magnets which then spin the motor, so move the brushes out of the motor area and see if they hold a piece of metal?

Have you confirmed power is getting to the motor? A continuity test will tell you this. If yes: Do a continuity test on the brushes as well. Do you notice visually any burn marks or burn smell at the motor?

@@HomeownerDIY I don't know what a continuity test is, but I tested the rectifer according to another video and my meter read 120 AC, and 107 DC. I phoned a Dewalt service center earlier today, and the only thing he could think of was that I had used the wrong power cord (which is true). I'm using light duty 100 foot 16 awg, when I should be using 14 awg. He said this would slowly kill the motor, causing some wire to pop. I asked if there was a way to test if power was getting to the brushes, but he wasn't allowed to give advice that might kill me, lol.

Check out this video for continuity tests: #QTOW# Continuity tests czcams.com/video/x_q4ULGF3Lo/video.html Probably easiest to take a cord plug it in the mower then use one of the prongs of the cord and test it on the wire going to the brush.Test both wires(both brushes) Make sure the level is pulled so the mower is "on".We are testing to see if power is getting to the brushes. If you were using a 16gauge cord, especially at 100ft, that would be a problem. The wires would get too hot because of resistanace. Please let me know the results.

Thanks for your comment, what do you mean by Tstat at the boiler? Is it attached to the boiler?

If you have any questions, please dont hesitate to ask!

You should try it when the ramps and tires are wet! I can say, l have never went off the end or missed a ramp.

Thanks for your question, yes after doing a coolant flush l noticed coolant was leaking under the water pump. That is one thing about doing flushes: Leaks can be exposed that sludge was stopping from leaking. The pump itself was still good but might as well put on a brand new one as the other could go any time. Besides a flush video, l also have a coolant leak checking video done on the car that you may want to look at.

Thanks for your question. What do you mean by started strong? Few years ago? After a few mins? What do you notice that has changed?

Very sluggish but still cuts just not strong though when i first bought it any suggestions ​@HomeownerDIY

@@HomeownerDIY do you know the issue

Have you confirmed its not this: #QTOW# Motor runs, blade doesnt spin(B&D MM 875) czcams.com/video/JIUaUo3x2To/video.html

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you had a simple fix and didnt need a new saw!

@@HomeownerDIY ... but my stupid self misplaced the inside plastic switch cover. I'll make a new one out of a plastic cup etc... it just has to keep saw dust away from the switch.

@@hmdwn Or clean it out on a regular basis. The important thing is you figured out the problem!

Thanks for your question, yes pex crimpers can be used for both sides. Only pex crimpers. The rings you see in the pic, they are to be used with this coupling. Do not use any other type of ring. This comes as a system and should be used as a system. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

@@HomeownerDIY Thanks, another question if you know I am using all white super Pex B piping and want to know what is a safe marker or paint to indicate cold pipes that won't cause harm to the PEX B. I will only mark the cold or the hot.

@@bentleybloodworth4282 The only thing l have ever heard of what not to use with pex piping is WD40. I have used a black marker many times, you can use electrical tape or masking.

Thanks for your comment, for the brushe(s) if you pause the video at 9:17, you can see the brush inside its metal housing. The spring keeps tension on the brush. To install you need to compress the spring with your finger. Between 9:17-11:00 I show how to install in the brush. l am sure you are really over thinking this. If you need a video, I can make a QTOW video for you. As for the multi-meter, The only check I do is a continuity test. Here is a link to the video: #QTOW# Continuity tests czcams.com/video/x_q4ULGF3Lo/video.html Please let me know if you need any other information.

@@HomeownerDIY Thanks. I'm going to try to replace the brushes tomorrow, & see how it goes?? Hopefully, it will be straightforward.

@@cchemmes-seeseeart3948 Look at my video when you do it and I am sure you will be fine. This electric mower is really basic to work on. Good luck sir!

Thanks for you comment, here is a link: www.amazon.ca/Craftsman-Table-Paddle-Switch-0LWG/dp/B08BNGNT6Q FYI, l dont know if this is a strickly Canadian switch, but I could only find it on Amazon.ca

Thanks for your comment, just be aware if it dries too fast the mud will crack.

Thanks for your question,the continous vent(The vent going up) vents the laundry and the tub. If the plumbing system isnt vented(Think of putting a straw in a cup of water and putting your thumb over the end) it will be air locked. Remove your thumb equalizing pressure and the water drains out. Hope that helps.

@@HomeownerDIY I’m sorry I didn’t realize it posted my comment multiple times! Thanks for your reply. We are converting our basement bathroom into a laundry room. I’m not quite sure how we will install the vent that extends up as our living room is directly above the bathroom.

@@MollieRamirez Is there something close by that you connect to? Like a kitchen or bathroom?

Thanks for your comment, what you stated is exactly what l did before l took it to the tire shop. That was it didnt work. It wasnt bad this time around because l just did work on it last year or the year before changing the rotors.(l made a video of that as well)

You dont want to carry around a sledge for a flat!! This car isnt driven much and is parked outside all year. Probably the 2 biggest reasons for this problem. This is the only car where l have ever had this problem.

Happy to help!

Thanks for your comment, sounds like youre reffering to wood filler(putty) Plumbers putty and silicone serve the same function(to seal out water) The way l learned is to silicone tubs and showers, where the drain isnt accessable. Putty for sinks. Putty even after 20 years is easy to remove. Silicone you will probably break the drain since the drain is old. Sink drains whether its a kitchen or bath, will eventually rot out and have to be replaced. Ive had the same drain on my tub for 60 years. The thing is the tub is used once a day(ish). Sinks are used used after every meal and when the bathroom is used. Hence why they rot oit faster. Please look in my plumbing playlist, you have many videos from a professional plumber there.

Thanks for your comment, l am in Canada. Our glue ABS glue is now yellow. Back in the 80's(maybe 90's) it was black. I know this because of homes l have been in have black glue, in Canada. I started in plumbing in 2007 and it has always been yellow glue in Canada.

Thanks for your question, no l personally havent had any problems. My first thought is, are you tightening them too much? I would say hand tight only. If necessary, give it an extra quarter turn with some channel locks. If its still leaking, put teflon on the ring between the slip adapter and nut. Its only plastic so being aggressive will break them.

@@HomeownerDIY I have not had them break on me but my father had 2 of them on his k sink and 1 on his tub that I had to replace. They seem to be made out of a softer plastic that splits easy and I try not to use them.

@@briancrandall1601 My guess that they are being tighten down too much. Like l said, go hand tight only.

What would be your solution to this problem? I am always interested in learning innovative solutions to problems.