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It is a little dependent on the acceleration of your machine. The feed rate makes really not that much difference as all the moves are very very small. So a high acceleration of the axis makes a big difference. I can’t tell you how long it took from top of my head but I think it was 90 minutes on my machine. Also the sepover makes a huge difference. So how smooth of a surface do you want and how much detail. My controller also shows the cutting time so I can make changes in case I don’t like the time.

@@JBWorx I see, thank you for taking the time to answer

You bet

Glad you liked it !

I figured it out. The original design reasoning is to be able to swap the top plates for soft jaws and also to turn them around and use the backsides with normal parallels.

You are spot on- make the vice you will like it

@@JBWorx Thanks Jorg:). I think the first set will be 7075 and then perhaps steel later on.

The aluminum version works really good as well.

You can see the charts on my website if you like.

@@JBWorx ah ok, nice Just wanted to highlight that a video is the perfect place to display information in a visual way But this is a 2-year-old video, so maybe you're already doing that

@hrmny_ thank you for your input

@@JBWorx hope I didn't come over too negatively, the first comment was very direct which is often misinterpreted

@hrmny_ no worries I am German, we talk a lot like that 😀

Yes the software will put huge tabs in the design. However you can delete them and place our own with the dimension and position you like.

@@JBWorx I just found the box creator gadget puts them in places that are not easy to sand. So I don't use the tabs. I just shoot a 23 gage pin nail so the parts don't move around. I have a version 1.5 of the box creator gadget that remembers the last settings used in all the fields and I modified it to default to tabbed lid instead of dovetail. Also turned off the ramping as well. SharkCNC fixed a few of these things for me. The file is on Vectric User Support Board.

Nice thank you !! Instead of shooting the nails you can make a test using a compression bit. It will pack the chips very tightly into the path of the tool so that the part that gets cut out stays in place. It works in many situations.

My Bosch Router blows out the chips and clears the cut as it goes along. The heavy pieces will stay in place most of the time but the smaller 1/4" material parts will get blown around. So the 23 gage pin nails are my go to choice. The holes are hard to see in the material as they are like a straight pin in size.

Yes they is a good solution. You could also check into the fiberglass nails. More expensive however

Yes it will. I have run it full speed as well but the chips flying off are hotter so wear a long sleeve shirt. But the blade will do it no problem.

@@JBWorx Great. I don't have variable speed ability. Thanks.

@braddowns2423 you bet 👍

Adding a vac plate is nice - BUT ! It has its limitations. The main advantage is to hold down thin larger stock that, for example, could not be held down with toe clamps. Instead of going through all that trouble I like to suggest you make a prototype vac plate for the parts you normally make and use your shop vac as a pump. This can give you an idea if you like working with an vac setup or prefer the regular clamping. Hope this helps.

👍👍

Yes, I think the durability, price and accuracy cannot be beat.

@@JBWorx thanks bro. Awesome test and great CNC stuff. My kind of channel. Subscribed ❤️

Perfect 👍

Glad you like it

Thank you Martin

Yep

Your welcome, I am glad you liked it

Thanks for reaching out

Paste? Maybe you mean the glue? It is CA Glue or superglue.

I use Starbond medium black. Not every accelerator works with it so it would be best to use theirs.

@@JBWorx Thank you I appreciate your prompt response. I love that you have a KAPEX to cut your stock. I have one too and I am still getting used to it.

I think it’s awesome to cut aluminum. I also use the same blade to cut plastic / Delrin and I am very happy with it.

I think it’s a really handy tool to have, I don’t use mine all the time but for some work it is really really good to have.

I don’t know what board you are using so I cannot tell you how to connect it. Look for the probe input terminals and make sure you connect the signal correctly to be either + or - so that nothing gets damaged.

Danke dir Sascha für dein Feedback

So you can go directly on the Vectric website and download the gadget.

Perfect ! Can you contact me via my website JBWorxstudio.com please.

Danke dir !

Yes the chip does get hot but the heat sink takes care of it. Even stuck inside the box it never shuts down. I suspect the amp draw of your motor is too high. So one of my viewers reported that he found a “all in one” driver and amplifier on Amazon. I have it here to test but have not accomplished that yet. Search for “stepper motor driver controller integrated board forward / reverse” it is sold by Banria store. I will place another response below this trying to add a link.

Stepper Motor Driver Controller... www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1HNS9L2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

@@JBWorx I've seen that one on Amazon and ordered it a while ago. Had to return it as it was OK for high speed, but as soon as I was slowing the motor down it would stop. Don't know if it has to do again because the motor is drawing too much amp.

Yes that can happen. Making the motor run smooth on a slow rpm is not always possible with every amplifier. So instead of guessing it would be best to simply place a volt meter set to amps in series. This way you will exactly know that the draw if the motor is.

@@JBWorx Thanks for the advice, I will try the voltmeter as mentioned. The stepper is a Moon's Industries ms11hs5l4100 and it is rated at 1 amp.

Yes the top bracket is a good improvement that really helps to reduce vibration in heavier cuts. Thanks for reaching out.

Yes this has a lot of information in it. The cutting is in part 2. Also have a look on my channel there are plenty of Aluminium cutting videos.

Thank you so much for pointing this out. That is really good information.

I use a Marco. Eding CNC provides a very basic macro however if you get involved how the probing works you can extend on the existing one.

How do you bring up a command to start the probing?

Eding provides a user menu. Here you can assign a button to a Macro / or basically call up routine in the file called macro.cnc

@@JBWorx I tried to probe a work piece using MDI such as F30 G38.5 X30 when the probe touched the part there is no retraction of the probe and the accuracy is down to 0.25 which I am not happy about.

@SmokeRings-eg7md you do need to calibrate the probe. I use a calibration ring but if you have a ball bearing that will work as well. I do not use the MDI command for probing but it is possible.

I posted this a while ago so I did not keep the G-Code sorry.

Excellent ! For the frame parts have a look at the Misumi web site. I like the heavy extrusions. I think it’s the HFSG 6-6060. For the guides have a look at HIWIN HGH 25 CA. Have fun building your machine !!

Yes I am familiar with the pickle process we used hydrochloric acid where I worked … probably too dangerous for home use but same concept. Oh I am sure you can buy hot rolled without scale is just that the vendor I buy from does not carry it - unfortunately.

That is certainly true and a good point that is often overlooked. However not all of us are going to have the ideal tool for every part we make. Most of my tools require a 20mm DOC hence the longer flutes. Here I make a part that is only 6mm thick and I will not go and buy an extra tool for that. However in a perfect world it is desirable to use a tool as short as possible. Thanks for your comment !

Yes in most cases when I have to cut out the entire part I use tape and CA. So far this method has been solid. Thanks for reaching out.

👍

lol 😂

Yes this is a very important point that you make. Thank you 👍

And thank you for leaving me a note !

Have a look at Mitee-bites distributors in the EU. I know they are available in Germany as some friends have them but I don’t know the vendor.

The point of this video is that you don’t have to design anything. It’s the easiest and fastest way to make a box.

@@JBWorx you just have to buy a specific machine and use specific software with specific add ons. Or you can use fusion, or any parametric modeling software, which already has a box generator, and post the code to any machine. With a full suite of options so your tabs and joints actually fit. But hey. Shill on.

Ok

@@JBWorx just the facts.

Certainly a good option if you make boxes of various sizes all day long.

Thank you Stefan

I think there is not “one fits all” work holding. Thin stock versus thick or metal versus plastic need possibly different methods of holding the workpiece down. If you have repetitive work it becomes also a matter of efficiency. I think I use the CA and tape method the most followed by the direct clamping from the top. Have you watched my video on work holding? I think it has value.

There are different plunger versions available and the cost is around $100.

Super! Danke dir !

Hi, also im Fachkunde Buch Metall findest du dazu gute Infos. Aber natürlich viel einfacher sich online. Versuch mal “Bearbeitbarkeit von Aluminium” bei Google oder Bing da findest du einiges. In Deutschland beschreiben wir diese Legierungen oft als “Automaten Legierungen” sind also extra für die Zerspanung hergestellt.

Zu meiner Antwort versuche ich hier noch einen link www.aluservice.de/ratgeber/aluminium/welche-aluminiumlegierung-zum-fraesen/#:~:text=Gut%20zerspanbar%20sind%20zum%20Beispiel%20Aluminiumlegierungen%20wie%3A%20AlMg4%2C5Mn,Automatenlegierungen%20AlCuMgPb%2C%20AlMgSiPb%20sowie%20auch%20AlCuBiPb%20oder%20AlCuMg1.