Video

Hi, thanks. This was just a demo. To answer your question, as long as you don't see a primer or fiberglass weave, you should be good, if there's enough gelcoat to oxidize but retain color, grind away. If it's thin, you'll learn quickly but it's rare for gelcoat to not be able to be brought back. I have about 300+ vids, keep watching to get a good idea of how this goes they are much better at showing the process and the audio doesn't suck so much. Lee

By the foot or the job, it's rather organic. My rates are specific to me, my area and how nice the customer is. Boats are by the foot and I hardly ever do RV's.

Hi. I NEVER do interiors of anything. I'm a 1 trick pony. Gelcoat is kind of my home and it's all I show. I rarely if ever show the washing or how I do stuff on vinyl, carpet, glass or anything but the outside, sorry. I try to focus on the parts most people don't know how to do. I've done a few minni-winnies, the gelcoat is thin compared to a boat but recoverable. Heavy Cut should make you happy. If you want more gloss, add Perfect-it ex ac to the mix. I hope you guys have a great trip and get lots of use out of your rig. Oh, a delay of 5 or more vehicles is illegal in most states here, find pull-off areas if needed and everyone will smile and wave as they pass! 😂👍🏼 (Or toss a turbo on that beast and do your own passing!) Thanks for the kind works, hope it helps push people in the right direction. Lee

Thanks, she was a chore for sure.

That one was an hr 20, hope you had snacks!

Yellow pads are for wax only. I know people try to use a light compound with them but a wool pad works so why ruin a soft wax pad..? I try to keep one side, the aggressive side and the other the finish side. Depending on what project I'm on, I'll either do a section with a compound and follow up with another before moving on or, I'll do the entire area in one compound and then switch over and hit everything with the lighter compound. Sometimes for the videos, I just focus on one section and I don't move much, to show the whole process in one cut. As long as you're spurring out your pads when they dry, it really does not matter. Heavy Cut breaks down past where Perfect-it ex ac starts so even if using the same pad, as long as it's mostly clean, you're good. Lee

That's an old video where I just wanted to show how fast this can take place. No finess-it was used. Watch any video of mine longer than 30 minutes and you'll have all the answers you need. Lee

292 at the wheel and 288 ft lbs compared to 256 at the wheel and 277 ft lbs prior. After the 1st tune, I still needed to reposition my 02 sensors. I still have not and thus, not top numbers but an S/C is in the works, someday. Lee Not as much as after adding an S/C or forced air from something like a turbo. It was enough to hold place in traffic lights against the E39 M5 so for a wagon, enough to make me smile daily. I owe Jed of Einhorn, years of my life. The headers allowed the car to play.

@@Local_Boydidgood I’m also running similar power to the wheels in my 540i 4.4 but ported m60 manifold, ported n62b48 throttle body slightly ported cylinder heads on exhaust side, s62 exhaust manifold and 4 inch maf and inlet tubing. Don’t think I’ll ever do the 4.6 swap but definitely regrinded cams and schmiedmann headers to get me to around 330whp.

Nice. I was building this engine specifically to force air. Tore the 4.6 down to the crank and ported and honed the intake, valve job and the goal was to get the s/c on before doing the exhaust but I couldn't wait. The 02 sensors were delayed for the s/c so 2 are in and 2 are just hanging (coded out) I'd get better #'s if I just pretended I wasn't going to s/c and plugged the sensors in the right spots. Swapping in a manual would be the next step. BMW' s sound so good straight piped. Sounds like yours is fun.

@@Local_Boydidgood Yh it is good fun but would love those headers you’ve got and a properly ported head haha, looking into 8hp swapping it instead of manual swapping as 8hp’s can hold stupid power and shift so fast and since mines auto anyway it makes sense, new m cars use the 8hp for a reason 🤷🏼‍♂️

Coding is all that stands in the way.. That and money and time.. LoL Doing all the work on the heads cost me $430. I was very pleased. The exhaust cost me a trip to Cali and some dinners and beers with Jed. There was a bit more to it but his work is, astounding. I don't know why he's so good at this. He's never been trained, he's got a gift. He makes a ton of neat parts for these if you haven't checked out his inventory.

Or Armor All (it's not the same garbage as in the 70's-90's.)Therr are products out now, made for vinyl wraps but anything that blocks UV is a good start, stays flexible and allows for some flex. Most spray detailers for interiors fall into this camp. Some might not be best but I'm mostly guessing as to what else might be good to use. Sorry, I don't typically tell people to wrap a boat so this is not something I'm an expert at. Lee

As always, you’re a wealth of information! Thank you!

I blame the almost 20 years at this. I hope some of it helps someone. Thanks. Lee

Thanks John, tell a friend.

Not going to argue with you there. I've got videos of a ceramic and Fire Glaze lasting 3 years. It's possible but in this case, even if we did that, he'd still have to look at all the repairs and I can't "fix" them. He will save money in the long run and be happier. Believe it or not, that's a motivator for me. I'm not making a dime off of the wrapping. It's his best move unless he wants to get things done correctly and keep that all going. He's a doctor and doesn't have the time so... Wrap it and forget it. I as you've seen, am not opposed to grinding the sexy back into a boat. He won't pay for what it takes and with the repairs looking so bad, what would be the point if through the glossy, all you saw were the mistakes? Again, I'm all about getting to clean pretty gelcoat but there's a point where all that falls aside while the eyesores are gleaming at you from many places. Mostly, for a guy who doesn't do ANYTHING on his boat but drink on it, this is money well spent compared to a decent repair or a respray. Options, options and options. Lee

Wraps can be cool if done right. It's the ones that look like a 6 year old designed it with a combination of dragon Ball z and WWE or something meets slim Jim and monster energy drinks that end up ruining things.

A friend of mine did large breasted women (in bikinis) floating at the waterline on air mattresses. It looked cool but his wife hated being in the boat, he changed it to a slim-Jim monster drink one. Florida is famous for, interesting wraps for sure. I've seen the WWE versions too. That poor fish. Lol. We went with blue, simple and easy. Nothing crazy. To protect it: don't hit stuff, keep it clean and "wet" with either a ppe ceramic or 303, armorall (it's not the old garbage it used to be. It's basically 303 on steroids for less $ A subscriber taught me that) and this can last 10+ years for $3,500. Mathed out, killer deal. I still get the white part to keep our relationship going and he saves a ton of "Dang, I hate seeing that spot and that one and that one. He'll get to just, enjoy the boat, thinking she's the prettiest girl at the dance. I already gave this guy a buffer wheels and instructions. He does nothing but spackle the holes, at night it seems. Sorry, more backstory than you probably wanted. Good question and valid points that you made. This isn't for everyone obviously. Just, you know the ones it's for, we see them all the time. They use duct tape for electrical connections, nothing but silicone to seal, everything with. None of their windows are clean. The horn is just holding on with luck and some good strong wires, wrapped in the wrong tape, through a hole filled with clear silicone to a horn set held together with yellowing epoxy and JB Weld... They try. Most learn and use the right stuff. For that customer, this. 😁😂 Peaces! Lee

I can say with certainty that my wife wouldn't want me putting a wrap with breasts on it on our boat either lol.

Women... Lol

Excellent deduction Watson! Lol. Yup, the wind took the boat and did some stuff.

Just the fire Glaze. If you need more protection, re-apply in 6 months by hand. Hand on, hand off. You can use a soft buffer pad if needed to save your wrists and elbows but a wipe-on-wipe-off should be good. I understand what you're going for but unlike cars of old, adding "layers" to a boat does very little sadly. Now, if you'd used Flagship, another application can't hurt but it doesn't layer up really. It'll find places where it can adhere and it'll be buffed off places where there's already protectives. Hope that helps Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee. This is EXACTLY the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I’m sure I won’t be the only one who benefits from this kind of advice. I can’t believe your channel has such relatively low viewership. I’ve found no other as helpful and responsive to community questions as yours. A virtual cold beer to you sir! I have the port side of the boat still to apply the Fire Glaze (tomorrow afternoon weather permitting), but the entire starboard side, top cap and transom area done to the final Fire Glaze step. It’s coming out phenomenally! Next after the exterior is the interior gelcoat - most likely after Labor Day. Will put up a video when it’s all done.

Inspiring. I'm enjoying a cold one now, thanks and cheers. I'm not sure why youtube hates me.. I'm not on Facebook, Xor anything Google wants me to be a part of. I literally get all my "traction" from people like you and word-of-mouth. I love that. Flashy music and vids are cool, I get that but what I show is raw and the people that absorb it are my kind of people. Thanks for sharing. I hope you have fun and enjoy the results of your labor for a long time to come (or longer than your other boater friends) Tell a friend, that's all I ask. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood As a follow up to my prior question about adding the Meguiars Flagship over the Fire Glaze, what about in 3 or 4 months 303 Protectant over the FG?

Any spray detailer. As long as there's no carnauba-based ingredients. 303 or literally any spra/wipe stuff is better than nothing. The FG will stop beading up in about a year and a half but it'll still be working. A top off isn't foolishly. I do boats once a year, even if they look great, just a light coat of FG after 20 minutes of compounding (there's always stuff) and a re application of FG and they're usually good for a few seasons. Adding a spray detailer will push that through the 3 year mark. I'm a bit OCD so I'd compound my boat twice a year just because "the detailer's boat" should be looking right at all times. I know FG can last 3-5 years but there's a ton to that length of time and if people won't put in the effort, I understand and just reapply once a year but I can skip most of the compounding so I enjoy that. I charge less, customers like that. It's a win win. Just see how long it lasts with nothing added or reapplied. You now know what to do to get the oxidation out. When it fails, do this all again but knowing more. Now see how long you are able to maintain the shine with spray detailers applied every few months. Lee

Hi, Blue tape won't bleed adhesive lubricants, into the pores of the gelcoat like other tapes will so stick with blue (not frog tape!) As for the film, you're ending too soon. The residue should be very easy to wipe off. With 3 passes of Heavy Cut (for those reading this) you should start with Super-Duty and then Heavy Cut. There's still some passes but you'll get the majority of the crud in one step of Super and 1 step with Heavy Cut. All of this takes practice so if you're happy with the results, great. If not, another pass would be acceptable and par for the course on some boats. Lee

(check this out) czcams.com/video/h5seC2AOWE0/video.html This red boat was sitting in the sun untouched for 20 years.. I think it was as chalky as you might imagine. I didn't rub my fingers on it but that's because I didn't need to. This is typical of all oxidized gelcoat. I showed how Perfect-it ex ac (the finishing compound) works as well as Heavy Cut to get through this stuff. The compounds remove the oxidation fine and there's generally no need to "remove it" before buffing. Thanks Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood That boat turned out excellent. I'm going to try your techniques and I'm sure the finished product will be awesome. Truly appreciate your honest approach to all this.

My pleasure. Good luck. Watch a few more of my videos to get a good idea of how this all goes, on many kinds of gelcoat boats. Lee

Thanks, it seems I don't do too many new ones, sadly. Lee

As always V, thank you for the support and kind words.

I wanted people to see that you don't always need the heavy artillery. Initially I was just going to use Perfect-it ex ac but people had complained about how long it took so, Heavy Cut was aggressive enough and sped things up a bit. Thanks

They aren't as fast or efficient as the 3M stuff so, I won't. Propolis by shurehold is a fine wax as long as you follow the right steps.

See the description, like the video suggested...

Check the description, as suggested in the video...

Happy to hear, thanks. Lee

Thanks RC. I'm glad it works even in Florida. People always ask. LoL Cheers! 🍻 Lee

I know you know about level-r from Starke and Polarshine 45. The world needs a review from you!

I think people would be interested to see what I can do with them compared to what I use. But, if I don't like them, what's the return for me, in buying both and eating up my time and money? Truth be told, I don't care if someone wants to use any reducing compound they want. As long as they use the buffer like I do and make sure to remove the oils from the compound before applying (a designated marine) "wax." I get it would be fun but I'm not here to trash products or be sponsored, I do like to trash "detailers" and scam products though so I do that instead. They use both products you mentioned. Ask them to learn how to use a buffer and then see if they're ready to use 3M stuff. (I hate 3M as an effective company, personally) I'm not trying to be difficult. If I ever find some laying around, I'll ponder a vid. Thanks for the suggestion. Lee

Ok ive been passing on going to look at a ranger tug in Merritt Island Florida because in the pics it looks this bad. Now since finding you I'll go look and consider it if mechanically sound. Thanks for the video I'll be watching more.

The only part that is difficult to maintain on a Ranger is the brill over the lower windshield. For some reason, they fade quite quickly. I'd suggest keeping an eye on it but getting them to shine again isn't a big deal. Lee

Hi. Thanks, I'm in Chelan, WA. Classes are 2-3 days (depending on what's learned or needed and cost $500 per person. By the time you leave, no oxidation you'll see, will scare you away from trying to fix it. I can be reached @ alwayswithacoke@hotmail.com Lee

Hi. The answer to your 1st question: Not really. Every boat is different and while one particular product might spread out and work an area, on a different boat, it'll take less or more product. I'll typically squirt Super-Duty 3 times around a wheel, Heavy Cut twice and Perfect-it ex ac twice but then I adjust my "section" to fit the amount of product the boat will let me work with. These aren't cars and so doing mathematical sections with prescribed amounts of product, isn't really how gelcoat let's you work. Is the pad new or very used? All this will play a role. Hot day or not? Humid day or not? Super oxidized or... Lots of factors and because I can't see what boat or RV you're actually working on, I give guidelines and 300 videos so people can watch a few hours of them and get a sense or a feel, enough to try this for themselves and developed their own program based on how their boat reacts to these processes. I can put it like this: use a product, apply it to your pad. As you're spreading it, there's a point in spreading where you can see uneven or even coverage. Strive for even coverage. (As uniformly as possible) make sure there's the same amount of product, applied to all the section so that the feel of the buffer has the same "resistance" throughout the section as you cross-cut. Moving your body/buffer all at once is better than just moving your arms. Spread your feed and bend you knees. If just starting out, stay there, don't move your feet, just your body/arms/buffer. As your confidence becomes stronger, grow your sections out. In moving your body more than your arms, the finish is benefited by both the movement of your eyes (to see more reflection/oxidation hiding) and to fatigue less in the arms. So, do a spot that's comfortable. I do bigger "sections" than most people, even people I've worked with for years. Stick to a 3'X3' area (not measured but the average throw of a human arm on a boat while buffing) get comfortable there and if you find it too big, reduce it. The compounds only, really work while wet or damp. If they dry, enjoy the scratches. As soon as it's applied (any compound) your job is to treat every molecule in the product applied, the same. They breakdown the same and finish at the same time. If you ignore a corner of your area, you'll see it when you're done and inspecting. This is less of a science and more of an art. The same differences in automotive paint versus gelcoat. Paint takes prescribed steps gelcoat requires you to be smarter than the boat and then dancing with it to achieve results. The foreplay is always different on a boat because they're all different (owner maintenance, environment, previous owners and various neglect issues..environmental variences.. ) All this decides how much you want to use and how far on gelcoat they'll "work" for you. I can't tell you. I have however shown you. Grab a beer and some snacks and every night, fall asleep to one of my longer vids. You'll get it. Or, just get into a boat with the idea, "I'm going to figure this crap out!" Don't let the boat beat you but attack in incriments, don't nuke the boat. If the last spot dried up, use more next time. If it took forever to finish, add less next time. Best answer I can give. I know Drake and Simon and the rest will state" use exactly this much.. " they're idiots. For a car fine but boats are jokers. Hope that helps but I'm assuming, not much. Sorry. Lee

Hi. The green won't hurt your white if you have used your screwdriver. As long as most of the old compound is gone, you're OK. I think a foam pad should be fine but if you are looking for a "Heavy-Cut" Menzerna makes one for boats and they are located in the EU. I would look for that. I use a rotary when smoothing a surface and a random orbital when applying or removing wax. It's all up to you. This isn't the last time you will do this so if it isn't perfect, just try something else the next time. I'm sure you'll like whatever you do. I hope anyway. Thanks for saying Hi. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks! I will do some tests and report on your channel for EU followers!

Fantastico, lo apprezzo. Buona fortuna fratello mio.

@@Local_Boydidgood italiano perfetto! 🤩

I've been one time. Lovely people and country. Thanks!

Thanks!

They changed the formula from Perfect-it to Perfect-it ex ac. I call it finess-it, I'm wrong in the name, sorry but they don't have it look for "Perfect-it ex ac" that's what you want after Heavy Cut. Lee

I don't envy you and that tevek suit time. Be aggressive in the beginning and go 400-500. Then have some 800 on-deck. You'll love the Dewalt after a HF model. Whit just takes light, lots of it to be honest but it's also very forgiving with swirls. Thanks! Good luck with the Dewalt! Lee

Duuuuuuuuude... This buffer is like a dream come true compared to what I've been dealing with! The power down low RPM is so sweet. I used what I had until now and it did do the job, but I wish I would've just pulled the trigger(no pun intended) on this thing at the start of this project.

Right?! It's a good machine. Let her cool down at a medium rpm if she gets too hot. Let it run for a while upside down with no pad on it (safer). No saltwater ever should get inside but fresh water isn't a problem. Unplug it, squirt with WD-40 and spin it by hand every hour till dry. No rust, good as new (unless the grip electronics get fried) She's a soldier, go conquer! Lee

Right?

You'll find the answer to that question in about 300 videos of mine. Here's what you don't want: that boat to fade out in 3 months and for that owner to not refer you to their friends. If you're new and don't "know" gelcoat, don't guess, use a compound, fix the gelcoat and protect it. That (if done right) should get you noticed. Waxing a boat with a combo/cleaner wax, anyone can do. Won't last or look as good but if you're trying to get a name for yourself.. Read the description, watch as much as you can and come for a class if you still don't get it after a season. Good luck. Know when to say "No." Customers not wanting to pay much is an excuse to half-ass it. Who calls that guy and pays any more? You need to show what you can do and then set your price accordingly. Boating is greatly sponsored by ego. We all want to look good on the water and will pay a little extra for it. Or, use the Perfect-it heavy and it may work well and last a long time. I'd hate to risk it so I don't. Lee

If people aren't pushing so hard, up on an edge, they'll experience less of that. They should have used a steel sleeve and not aluminum, agreed. Not perfect but if not abused, serves a purpose and unless abused, will keep a pad spinning and being able to semi-quickly allow a flip. I also run a normal spindle nut and it's almost always, as fast to flip and never drops a pad on the ground which, to a detailer is one of the most frustrating things in life. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks. It's not all that hard or I try to show that. I'm here if you get stuck. Lee

They make them. If I worked on paint, I'd recommend one but as this is gelcoat, no. There's no cordless machine that can compete with a corded buffer. Batteries haven't gotten that good just yet. I know they exist, I know people use them.. I never will, sorry. Anything by Festool. (if I had to offer a suggestion) a random orbital or short-throw forced rotation buffer can come in handy but I still want to know that I'm just bringing one cord and 1 machine. Not, 5 extra batteries, a charger and a machine. Cords work, always have. Lee

Well, thanks. Sometimes, the old tried ways, just work. Lee

Hi. Thanks. After review, I'm thinking Heavy Cut. This is because I then show me going over the same area with Perfect-it ex ac. That could be because of a few things; good catch. These were all clips recorded a while ago and the green boat part, I have a whole couple videos on. That and I wanted these ones on the black boat off my phone. I might have gotten lazy in the editing. I'm sorry. So lazy that even now, I'm not going to re-edit it. It's a thing. Lol Alcohol works dawn dish soap, window cleaner (streak-less) Yes, before you apply anything to something you've compounded, clean and dry it. Inspect it and then protect it. As to a "wax" check out the description for some suggestions. Lee

Thanks for that video and it looks great. But the problem with detailing boats is not the flat part. That's chest high. It's the areas around the non-skid and the curves and the around the chines and a hatch covers and the hard to reach spots. Not to mention the non-skit itself

If you think I/you can't do these things with the same stuff, you're wrong. Please spend some time watching any of my videos, (300+) and see for yourself. Thanks for, mentioning stuff. Lee

I have started my project, using the products and wool pads Lee suggested and the same techniques and sequence. Using a Makita polisher similar to his Dewalt. This is on my 2004 SeaVee with a white hull, which I had only “compounded” and waxed maybe 5 times in the years I’ve had it since new - but never like this. The portions I’ve done so far - the stern, are coming out much like his videos and I’m TOTALLY a believer in this process. I have limited time to work on this due to other work and life obligations and it may take me 3-4 weeks to finish, but when I do I’ll post a short video and link it here. Thanks Lee for taking the time to show us how this is done !

Cool. Thanks for being a part of spreading the message. Best of luck and I'll be here when you post the vid. Lee

Use a long metal rod with a bend in the bottom, put this on a drill and stir it up. I have to do this.

Hi. No. Just run it at a medium-low speed, free spinning for about 5 minutes before putting a load on it. As you use it, if it heats up, let it run for a bit. Don't just shut it down to cool down. The head grease is stable and never needs replenishing. Enjoy Lee

Thanks

You're too damn kind.

You'll be better off with Heavy Cut. Cobalts, showing water spots means that it's deeper than a cleaner wax (which that other product is) can reach. It may darken up the color but so would butter or cooking oil. It won't fix the problem. If time and money aren't issues, start with Super-Duty by 3M on a 3M wool pad. ( other brands like lake country's wool is way too soft) Then Heavy Cut and then Perfect-it. Wash, inspect and if you like it, lock it in with either of the "waxes" in my description. Keep it clean and re-apply wax by hand once a year and use a spray detailer (polymer-based, not carnauba wax) every time you think about the boat or use the boat. She's yours so, do what you want but in my experience, hiding oxidation under oil means it's getting deeper every year and eventually the oils won't help any more to hide it. It'll then take so much work that people will start telling you to wetsand (you still won't have to but they'll say it because it's all they know to try) Without being there to see feel and taste the boat (kidding, I don't taste them) I can only give guidance. Thanks for say'n hi. Lre

@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you very much for the quick reply and the detailed advice! Since time is money, I want to do it right the first time, and then it should be easier to maintain the nice finish. I will take your advice on the products suggested. I would love to hire you to detail my boat, but I'm in northern CA and therefore probably not near to you. I'm curious what area is your business located?

I'm up 2 states. A small town near a big lake called Chelan. If you took 97N East of Shasta, you'd bump into us. (beautiful drive by the way) No problem on the suggested course of action. You're exactly correct : do a solid (hard) job once and try to avoid a repeat through good maintenance. That's the goal anyways. Watch a few more of my vids to get a good idea of how to use the products and the buffer. There's a dance that takes place. If it feels like a fight, there's a problem. Good luck. I'm here if you get stuck.

I'm not sure exactly what to say.. Super-Duty by 3M is just as aggressive as you need it to be. It always seems to be the go-to of all my detailer buddies. czcams.com/video/LuPPLBwz1Cc/video.html Lee

I wish you luck. Thanks.

Hope she comes out nice.

Nope, just this.

@@Local_Boydidgood thank you you have changed the game for me. I was told it wasn’t worth fixin my gel coat because it would cost a lot and be a lot of sanding and wet sanding to do so… just heavy cut and perfect it had it shining like new (minus any major gouges that need actually gel coat filler)

Cool. I'm glad we saved another one from the junkyard. I'd appreciate if you'd spread the word, help the next owner. Please also, drive your boat to that shop. Don't tell them what you used, just tell them if they want to learn the secret, watch a few vids on youtube. Glad you get a shiny boat to play with now. Cheers, Lee

Hi. Thanks. Once the compounding is done, wash/inspect, then wax, yes. czcams.com/video/6t4NVINkjDE/video.html Some decal stuff. Mostly, avoid heat, pressure and if you see signs that the decals won't last the buffing, use blue masking tape and mask them off. Most decals can take a vuff, in most of my videos, you won't see me act like I care that they're there. I'm aware they are and usually that's enough. The cap should be gelcoat so the same process. It looks different, harder because it's thicker than the stuff on the sides. I hope you enjoy. Look in my "tubersdonegood" section and see how others have gotten on. Perhaps you'll film a before and after, show these kids that it's not just me saying this works. Cheers, Lee

Well, it’s my first ever attempt at this kind of thing, so we will see! One more question: Apply wax with a foam pad and the Dewalt? Or, use a ro machine with foam pad? Other approach for the wax?

I use a random orbital however, you can always use your hand and a Terry cloth towel too. You can remove the wax with a soft rotary or, a soft foam pad and a random orbital. I'm here if you get stuck.

Hi. I'll answer first so I don't forget. I like any soap that leaves behind a protective finish as a monthly maintenance program. Their Mirasol spray (not on non-skid, no matter how much fun it is afterwards wearing socks) 303 (although, as brought to my attention recently by a viewer, Armorall has a whole new recipe and offers more of the same good stuff that 303 uses, for a third the cost) Any spray detailer that is a polymer-based thing. Anything is better than nothing. Asking the developers of FG what to do, I was told to just keep things clean, use white vinagar and water. Upon hearing this I opted for a more modern approach. I could be wrong but if you get the surface to a high level of "nice," clean it well and apply FG as best we can, anything should be good. Left alone, it lasts as long as an Si02 "ceramic" so adding some love will be beneficial. As a detailer reapply it every year and don't worry about the owner forgetting now and then. @ this price, it's cheaper than a good lunch out. I'll donate for the cause to avoid grinding next time. Salt-a-way added to say turtle wax car soap, makes for a killer result as to longevity when washing any gelcoat. Even if you don't have salt water, this stuff leaves behind a protective polymer film behind as it dries. It isn't a "wax" it's just an added layer and that's better than nothing. All just my thoughts. I like making them dirty more so that's usually all I show. Lee

I saw that too. Interesting wold we live in (sipping on one now) 🍻 Thanks Terry.