Video

Anytime, glad it helped.

I'd have to go back to the video and check my step size. If the step size is small, it takes a long time to calibrate. I think the default is 2000. As far as the setting for RA and DEC, I set these for the best tracking and pay no attention to which one is larger. I just want the best resutls.

Yeah mine did too. I had to replace the extruder with the metal version

@@MyEngineeringProjects yeah same here just ordered a new one.

Thanks glad you liked it

I don't understand the symbols in the question, but it goes in the reverse order it was removed. I don't have this telescope anymore so I cannot check the lens.

The Sun's corona is the outermost layer of its atmosphere.

Your welcome I’m glad it helped

Yes it works all the time

The needles come with nozzle kits and are very inexpensive. There is a link for nozzles and needles in the description.

That would be a fun project. At this point you would need a board that contains Ascom drivers and then it could work with Astroberry or maybe with an AsiAir or something like that but it would be fairly difficult.

When you say manually turn the extruder, are you saying by hand or by the manual feed feature in the software? If by hand then you might have an issue with the extruder. If not, then the issue is somewhere else.

I have not seen this one but I would set it to 80 and it’ll be very close to your target

That sounds like it's jammed at the spool. Can you manually unthread the spool? You might also try to take off the tube on the extruder and just see if it will pull it at least to that point.

@@MyEngineeringProjects I have to buy a new thing of filament because that’s pretty old filament. I have to make sure it’s not the filament thank you though.

It should work, but I haven’t tried it

I let it soak with intermittent shaking for a few hours. All the work was done in one day.

Awesome, thank you!

You’re welcome 😊

Thanks for saying so. I'm glad it helped.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Thanks for the video, it's very helpful as a novice doing this stuff. Can I ask why you only have 3 bed clips on the print bed in this video instead of 4? Is this a glass bed? And is there an optimal position to place the clips with regard to the CR touch? Thanks :)

Yes it's a glass plate. The 4th clip caught on something and fell off. I need to replace it. 2 in the front and 2 in the back about how I have them works best for me.

I don't have a Windows machine to test. You could open a ticket up with ZWO. It's possible you have a defective focuser.

Really similar. Be sure you have the EAF plugged into your PC [use power supply if 12 volt] then download and unZip the EAF_FWUpdate_win_v3.3.8.. Then Run ElectricDeviceFWUpdate_3.3.8.exe. If it doesn't open then you have to install the Microsoft Visual C++ 2008 Redistributable Setup [run vcredist_x86]. Then open the Update screen and scan for the EAF, then Run. The update will proceed. Very similar to the above Mac version. It will verify the update, EAF Version 3.3.8 or similar.

Good question. The ZWO focuser is already geared down, so placing it on the fine focus knob is not necessary. They specifically designed it to go on the course knob. It would probably work o the fine, but I have not tested it.

It worked. I do need to gear it down because this free refractor has no fine speed control. You can see the first test here czcams.com/video/jrAV25ZPZSQ/video.html

First check to see if your limit switches are connected. you might also need to check to see if they are plugged in correctly at the board. One loose switch connection can cause this issue

I designed and 3D printed a support bracket

@@MyEngineeringProjects I thought it might be that. Unfortunately, we don't all have 3D printers.

Not very long it’s just a demonstration battery. It has fairly low current.

@@MyEngineeringProjects will it work for a few minutes or hours? I want it to work during my school's science exhibition. Btw very nice video.👍

For a school science project, you can run the LED for a while a few hours probably it’ll be enough to show how it works

@@MyEngineeringProjects I have one more question for you. Can I use a thick aluminium wire instead of the galvanized nails?

It will work but bear in mind that each metal has different characteristics and produce different voltages.

I'll have to checkout that design. Glad you got it working well.

Ok.

Not sure what version you are using, but for V2 Try navigating to Prepare which is the top right, then going down to the A symbol which is just below the temperature symbol, then you should be able to find English. For other versions this would be different.

Try to increase the step size. During the calibration process, the ASIAir will command the scope to move a bit over and over. If it does not move enough to detect a change of position, the calibration process may fail. From memory I think mine is set to 2000 but I would have to confirm.

@@MyEngineeringProjects - Thank you - I'll give it a try!

@@MyEngineeringProjects - Just checked my step setting and it also says 2000. I did recently insert a different camera, so I'll try resetting as you mentioned in your video.

Yes very good idea. I had the same issue where I forgot to re-calibrate when I swapped cameras. Guiding failed until I deleted the calibration and started over.

This is likely a firmware issue. You might have the wrong version installed for your board. Double check your board and the version you downloaded from Creality's site.

Glad I could help!

I’m not sure since I have not used the sprite extruder but you probably will have to move the cr touch to the sprite.

I would try a different version of the firmware. Their website that has the downloads is really hard to navigate. Also, check the board version number and make sure it matches the firmware you downloaded.

@@MyEngineeringProjects How would I do that? I don't see any old firmware on the creality website. My firmware for the board number is correct.

I agree, but I don't like looking at it so that's why I put a lid on the box.

It would be challenging to do this. If you simply tried to scale the STL, then it would make everything bigger such as the nut holders and holes for the rods. This would break the design. One option is to import the model into CAD and then keep connectors the same but increase the size of the mirror holder and related parts.

@@MyEngineeringProjects I was also thinking it would make parts too large for most 3d printers. Would maybe have to divide them into the smaller pieces.

Glad it helped. Yes it is and it's also available on their mobile app. It's great for planning.

It the ASIAir won't recognize it, then likey it is corrupted or an incorrect format. I have had some usb drives fail without warning and cannot be mounted. Not sure if this your issue, but it's a good place to start. Try testing the stick in a computer first.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Thanks for your reply!

Interesting. I like the idea of the normally closed switches. I was lucky for sure. I heard a banging noise and knew I only had a few seconds to shut off the power. Fortunately the board and motor is ok but what a close call.

I don't have the pro version, but look for a spacer that should not be there like a washer of some sort. It also might be in upside down. Not really sure without looking at it myself.

I would check to make sure you have the right nozzle size and that it is not obstructed. If it's too small or partially blocked, that could cause under extrusion.

Thank you.

Happy to help!

Cool, thanks. I was tearing my hair out on this one. Glad I finally figured out what was wrong. I'm printing the next component now for the auto focuser.