Video

It seems there are never enough hours in a day. I have 5 Lockes and wish I had more time to fiddle with them. One day the enthusiasm may motivate you to start the ball rolling.

replace the drum if it's excessive. Or, if light, press out the shaft, and use green lock-tite to seal around the circuit holes. Lock-tite the splines as well when reassembled. Blow air through the circuits before the lock-tite sets.

I don't remember the bill on this one. In my shop for a complete job with rebuild and R&R. 6L80-90 tend to be somewhere in the range of 3800 to 5500, depending on extent of internal damage, whether it needs Techm and other variables like cooler lines. mounts, U-joints etc.

North Adams, Massachusetts

yes, a billet cover torque convertor from a reputable rebuilder

at which time was it?

Most of the time, not always, if the techm has no program, it won't have engagement. 100 miles? If it had engagement and in a middle gear I'd be concerned with taking it more than a block or so. Try to find someone local.

@scatteredrustyprojects it drove perfectly after rebuild. No new techm. Shifting great. Thanks

@@brassskills6084 excellent! glad to hear that.

Tan check balls are what we prefer. They do come in most overhaul kits. The clear/white-ish balls wear down and create problems, so we avoid those. Look through the other comments here about polishing aluminum piston surfaces.

@@scatteredrustyprojects thanks for the reply. I just finished machining my pump cover. That bolt trick to remove the dowel was awesome! I'm a machinist, and mechanical engineer, but this is my first transmission build. Your video has been super helpful. I'm still putting together my parts list and having some difficulty settling on the exact rebuild kit to buy. My Yukon has 192k and other than the 4-5-6 clutch frictions, all my clutches looked great, so I wasn't really planning to do steels.

@@danielcolwell1477 it's fun machining the bell being it is eccentric. Did you get the thick end play washer? --Sonnax 33452A Endplay is added when the pump channel surface and stator face are machined. Sometime soon, I will add a supplement video to this talking about using 1500 grit to polish the aluminum surfaces where the piston seals ride. The surfaces become rough with scratches through use with metallic suspended in the fluid and also, an aqueous cleaning method can etch the surfaces. This roughness will scrub the pistons, wearing them to leak in a matter of months.

@@scatteredrustyprojects I opted not to machine the bell housing. It was pretty cheap online to just buy a new one. But since the other half could just be done in a lathe that was too easy not to machine it. I'm assuming I don't need that thick end play washer since I'm just going to buy a brand new bell housing?

@@danielcolwell1477 ther eis quite a bit of endplay in stock form, like a thick washer could be put in there even without machining. It isn't too fussy. If you took .008" or more off the stator than I would suggest the thicker pump washer.

6L80 is a pretty good unit to build. Read through the comments here for some additional info. One supplement I'd like to add when I get the chance is using 1500 grit paper to polish the aluminum that the pistons seal against. I ought to do that soon. Thanks for watching!

Not a whole lot. Like 6" perhaps. When the grass is high, some of it tends to get pushed over.

Yes. For popularity, the 62te and 6F35 are almost as common as the 6L80.

North Adams, Massachusetts. Unfortunately , I don't export trans if you are far away.

Post a video to show us what you do. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Not sure what it might bring in the form of gold wealth and riches...

The original linkage is the two rods. I pulled linkage from a parts bus that was originally equipped with a 5 speed. It is a single shaft that moves back and forth and rotates. I'm planning to swap it in, but often wonder is the two rod set-up will control the Fuller 5 speed as well. I'm looking forward to digging in.

@@scatteredrustyprojectsthere’s a lot less space under my mc5 (no tag axle). (In the last video I posted you can see me crammed under my mc5 lol). I’m guessing your donor bus is a 1980s one (I’ve seen that box in one of those). Whereabouts in the country are you based? Is the clutch mechanism and system different on the 11605 vs the spicer? (I hate the clutch on my mc5!)

@@scatteredrustyprojectsone small thing about the smoke- as to whether it’s the injector(s) or the rings, you can visually open the windows at the side of the block to visually spent the liner port/ring interface.

@@MarquisRex I'm in North Adams, Massachusetts. Yes, the donor was 1980s. Either MC8 or MC9. There is another US Coach in Alliance, Ohio. He sold me an 8v71 and the 5 speed with the linkage. I'm not sure about the clutch yet. I'd love a little easier clutch than my MC7 has. With the height of the seat, it hurts my knee.

@@MarquisRex I had one of those off and really couldn't tell much. I'm not that well versed in normal Detroit appearance....yet.

I'm quite curious as well. Mine also leave puddles from the drip tubes. I saw another video with a Detroit that has a lot of oil coming from the drip tubes. It ended up being the oil control rings on the piston. When this is all back together, I plan to make a catch bottle for the drip tubes.

@@scatteredrustyprojects I don’t mind so much dripping oil, it just gets expensive to have to add a gallon every two hours of driving. I would think if the rings were bad it would smoke. I’m gonna use my bore scope and peak down into the blower. Maybe something there.

@@kevinvincent4323 the video I saw showed a rings below the wrist pin for oil control. In the video it seemed like a little oil could purge up above those lower rings and work it's way in the air box to then flow out the drip tubes. Wrist pin caps is another possibility. I agree that either of those seem like they would promote smoke. Sounds like you are buying new oil to top-off. If you didn't know, FYI: Oil that flows through the air box will pick-up micro particles that passed through the air filters. Even if you collect the oil, it shouldn't be used in engine lubrication. The drip tubes in my engine were routed back into the oil pan. I rerouted them to open end and then realized how much oil is coming out of them....probably as much as yours.

Hi. I can say I haven't used any of those 3 HP parts. Yes, use a quality billet cover convertor and both TransGo kits. The next best thing you can do is reprogram TCC strategy to delay lock-up until 4th or 5th gear. Shops with HP Tuners can do that and I believe there are other DLC plug-in products available to revise lock-up strategy. If you live south of Canada we have been deleting the thermostatic bypass if it contains one. An update I should do to the video is to polish the aluminum surfaces where the seals and pistons ride. They get scratches and certain cleaning processes can leave the surface etched. This scrubs away the pistons over time and shortens trans life. Good luck!

​@@scatteredrustyprojects Thankyou for your feedback, very much appreciated...... yeah - HP parts and cost plenty $$ each - looking at some options for known tranny failure points/weaknesses. I guess my $5.5k rebuild vs a $6.5K with greater longevity. I just cant afford more "truck down" time.

@@scatteredrustyprojects Thanks for the HP Tuners and tranny" lockup strategy" I'm going to look into that.

@@hockeynut088Forgot to mention we also install a 1234-35R drum with higher clutch capacity. We've done quite a few trans in service trucks, 1-ton dump trucks and other vehicles that get loaded and never needed the billet stuff. The billet is for the turbo'ed vehicles making 1000 hp and getting pounded.

@@scatteredrustyprojects Is it transtar drum ? Any part number for that drum/kit ?

My original plan was to install a 6R80 which uses the MOD style bell. Due to possible fitment issues and the speculation of the gear ratios may not be optimal for the application. With a larger rear gear, 1st is so low, there is programming to start in 2nd. Keeping the gear small might put an engine with a moderately sized cam to be at too low of rpm in 6th. To gain the joy of having a bigger rear gear along with cruising on the highway, a 4 speed will suit my needs and be easier to install. I feel the 4R70 has a higher torque capacity than the AOD. The other reason I chose the 4R70 is the ability to delay the TCC apply. This would prevent lugging when using a larger cam. While AOD doesn't have a clutch in the torque convertor, it does have the same feature of mechanical connection gained in a different fashion. With the AOD that happens whether you want it or not when shifting into 3rd and 4th gears via means of the Direct Shaft. This is o-k on engines with a stock cam or RV type cam. However, it can make engines with a more cam fall on their face shifting into 3rd causing regular drivability to suffer. The 6R80 will go in the 68 Colony Park which is heavier and can benefit from the really low 1st.

it's getting there....

To tell ya the truth, I try to avoid headlights. Transmissions are much easier.

@@scatteredrustyprojects😂

Aww shucks...... It sometimes takes burning the midnight oil. How can we sleep when our beds are burning?

I use transmission parts suppliers like Transtar, VTP or WIT. The WIT kit is lacking a couple things, one of them being the bearing at the front of the 1234-35R drum. Lately, I've been using the AC Delco seal kit, buying a set of bonded pistons and replacing only clutches that need to be replaced. I haven't used the Zip Kit.....it looks like it has what you need. If you aren't changing the Techm, take a close look at the pressure switch films....they can split and leak. Watch for galling in the pump area. Two bushings important to replace are the pump bushing and input shaft/456 drum rear bushing.

thanks!

Lately, I'v ebeen using the GM seal kit, a bonded piston kit from any of the suppliers and selectively replacing clutches.

The GM seal kit does not come with the bearing in the back of the drum which has an integrated seal that needs to be in good condition or replaced. It's more than a lube seal. It holds compensator feed oil which can have an affect on shifting. With that in mind, you may want to use Transtar as their kit does include that bearing. The WIT kit did not. Depending on where you are, a local transmission parts supplier may or may not include the 1234-35R drum bearing.

Revisited your video as I’m finally getting time to work on my Triplex. Rebuilt the carburetor and, after a couple of jet adjustments by a guy who knows small motors, the Briggs is running great. Cranks on the first pull every time. Getting new tires for the sulky today; they’re being installed as I write this. Next comes the transmission work. It definitely needs adjusting. Then I’ll work on the blades and bed knife adjustments. Great fun!

diagnostic, removal, rebuild, flushing cooler, usually replacing cooler lines, installation, road testing.....about 16 hours

best to post this question on FEpower.net

if you got a new Techm from GM it will need programming and won't show shift position until programmed. I believe the aftermarket like Dorman are the same. It's possible the NS switch isn't engaged with the manual valve. Or the manual valve isn't engaged with the pin on the rooster comb---detent plate.

@@scatteredrustyprojects can it be programmed once installed, or do I have to remove it and can I do it at home with something like the Chevy version of forscan or is it a dealership thing?

@@shadow6958 I program using a J2534 pass through using ACDelco Service Programing. This is done with the techm in the vehicle through the data link connector. I've heard of other people programming the techm on the bench. Being I don't export units, I haven't looked into that method. Many independent shops are set up to do the pass through programming.. With either independent or a dealership, you'd have to tow the vehicle there. Also, I believe shops that have HPTuners can program a blank techm. With HPTuners, the final touches of revising the TCC partial apply on 2nd gear to a full TCC apply in 4th or 5th would be a great benefit to this trans.

@@shadow6958 I've only heard a little about Forscan. Not sure on the capabilities. Some of it sounds intriguing. I use Delco for GM and Motorcraft for Ford. It is rare enough if I need to program anything else that I would just take it to that dealer.

At my local plumbing supply. A 3" flue brush.

I did! Makes me want to cut down the trees. Here is another vantage point of the same area: czcams.com/video/kfr8uV_Ej6w/video.htmlsi=vfNosFvJ2N08dlaF

Richard Wardell in Georgia.

...knock on wood.