Video

I had money to spend on that day only 😆🤑

@@MatthewTaylor3 I hear it

Thanks for this additional Information. I've pinned your comment

What version steering wheel control module did you have before the swap?

@@MatthewTaylor3 lowline model but i swap for highline

@@dizelas8890 Can you provide the part number just the same? I want to cross reference it with the Ross-Tech Wiki compatibility chart. If you have the lowline model (originally), you also need the "Revision-L" gateway.

@@MatthewTaylor3 now i have steering wheel with comands but from mk5 that suport,is it same mk6 and passat 7 steering wheel i mean is there diferent beetwen mk6&passat 7

@@dizelas8890 Passat 7 Steering wheel should be the same as the MK6 Golf/Jetta. Can you please state the original part number for the steering wheel control module in your MK5 so I can look it up in the compatibility chart?

Yes, this is the same one. I've had success with it as a unit I use 2-3 times per week. I consider it an alternative to the Andis T outliner if your bathroom has no electrical outlets for a corded shaver. The build quality for the one I have is good. One side of the blade shaves slightly closer than the other.

Yes, the cluster will work just the same.

For sure!!

I did. I recall it being a very tight fit. I had to use my left hand to do it. It felt very awkward.

@MatthewTaylor3 Did a turbo swap last year. Ended up having to pull the breather a couple times for various projects. Tried/failed every time to get it done without removing the heat shield. Total pain in the ass, I just remove the HS and save myself the frustration

@@steveninverse9579 I had subsequently removed the factory heatshield on another day to install a BSH one instead

Tell me about your experience

Coding is NEEDED. The specific coding is dependednt on the steering wheel control module (#16) you have installed, and you select the appropriate one BASED on the steering rack (module #44) you have installed (based on whether or not it has the steering angle sensor built in). You also need to have the "Revision-C" clockspring if you don't have it already in a 2007+ vehicle. Your steering wheel part number doesn't matter, but it would be nice to have the paddles if you have the DSG. The part number you identified is fine. The airbag harness looks good too. As it relates to the SCCM, I'll post the Ross-Tech Wiki list for you to look at. You FIRST need to know what SCCM you have in the car now to advise you which compatible MK6 SCCM to buy.

wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions Read this FIRST before buying the wrong module. Note your existing module via visual or electronic means, then select the compatinble MK6 one that does both 1.3 and 2.0 protocol communication (1.3 MK5, 2.0 MK6), steering angle sensor location. The hack I used to make the chart easier to read is to copy and paste it into Excel, then applied a filter to get the Highline MK6 module that matched my MK5 one.

@@MatthewTaylor3 Thanks for the quick reply. This sounds very confusing and a headache. That link is confusing.

@@jayv5641 The FIRST thing you need to do is to identify the SCCM you have in your car now. You can use a VAG scan tool to idenify it, or physically tear your steering column apart. If you PM me your VIN, I can look it up in a part catalog, and tell you which one from the list to buy.

@@MatthewTaylor3 Where can I PM you? I don't see that option on youtube anymore.

You need a coding tool like ODIS, OBDeleven, VCDS, AVDI, Autel, TopDon to change the options. You need the steering wheel and module to match your desired trim level of your vehicle.

Spicy_FPV_Jamaica

Once you have a MK5 Golf or Jetta, then you need to get one from a 2010 Jetta just for the front plastic cover and mounting points so it bolts up and looks factory. You discard the rest. You then place that on your MK6 instrument cluster. If you ONLY need to change the units of measure, you would just buy the thin plastic backing behind the needles that have the units you want. You would then use a EEPROM tool like VDOeditor to scale it appropriately so it works correctly. You are on the correct path.

You need what I listed or else the HORN and paddle shifter won't work. The MK5 uses the older DDP protocol. The MK6 uses the newer BAP protocol. The correct steering wheel control module speaks both protocols. You need to have a working horn for safety and road legal reasons. Importantly, you NEED to KNOW that the airbag WILL also deploy in the event of an accident.

You theoretically could buy a lowline MK6 steering wheel without the MFSW buttons, and a matching Steering wheel control module that has the correct steering angle sensor configuration, but is it really worth it to risk to cheap with a retrofit like this (unless you already had a lowline trim level vehicle already)?

@@MatthewTaylor3 okay thank you so I will just need to buy the steering module with the wheel it’s for a mk5 rabbit I just have one more question after doing this will I need to do anything else after it’s done like can I just plug everything in and it will all work ? Or no.

@@coaster0537 You will need to get the Revision-C clockspring if you don't have that already. You will finally need an appropriate VAG tool like OBDeleven, VCDS, ODIS, VCP, Autel MS908 Pro (or equivalent in that category) to code the new module (at address #16) to be similar to your old one and match the steering angle sensor configuration in the steering rack (J500/module 44).

It's the one that ends with "C". I'll post it in a few minutes

1K0 959 653 C

@@MatthewTaylor3 thank you very much, fantastic job youre doing with your channel!

Brandon Wright is his correct name

Thanks !!@@MatthewTaylor3

Hello. Your ABS unit WILL reset itselt and lose all coding whenever you connect another ECU or instrument cluster, so make a note of your existing coding to restore later as it WILL be lost. You can’t just copy the raw immo settings to the new cluster as they are different EEPROM and software version. You would transfer the information like the: MAC, Power Class, CS, and VIN. The serial number being a string of zeroes isn't an issue, and can be left that way. You will need a new key fob/transponder pill/ ID-48 pill as your existing one is permenently "married" to your stock instrument cluster. If you got a donor key that came with your new cluster, that can work too. You would just need to swap the key blade to work in your ignition, glove box and driver door.

@@MatthewTaylor3 Thanks for the help! How can i transfer the MAC, Power Class, CS and VIN to the new one? I think to go local car-key service for the immo but can they do the same job with their equipment im not sure. :/

@@tayfun.mehmed I used a ph0ny copy of AVDI to do it. You should be able to do it with tools like ODIS. The most trickly part is just getting the new cluster into service mode. I need to redo the video, so the process is more clear.

@@MatthewTaylor3 Okay. thanks for the help man, there is a lot of things to do i even dont have enough time, ill be search a good car-electronics service again i hope to find one..

@@MatthewTaylor3 Hello again, i find a guy on car-key service and he said they can do it. Just i need help with some questions, is all the clusters works or i need to find with a specific part number? And this 36 to 32pin cable is same like from the passat or not because i only find for passat b6.

If your steering wheel currently has NO buttons on it, then it means you have the LOWLINE steering wheel control module as well. You would need to buy the HIGHLINE steering wheel control module to make the replacement steering wheel work. You would select the appropriate one once you know if the your car has the steering angle sensor in the rack itself or the column. You would then need to recode the steering wheel control module in case there is somethng different about your car than the donor vehicle you get the steering wheel control module from.

Thanks for this information. I've never used the combs. I discarded them right after the review as I only use the unit for close shaves.

The issue, yes. This happens when running above stock boost. The check valve fixes that

This is the Palisadoes Go-Kart track, not a beach. The drone in an FPV drone, so it requires constant manual control to operate, as opposed to an app driven drone like a DJI model. If you are curious about the frame, it would be the "Source One". You would have to select and assemble your desired components to get a flying unit.

Has ANYTHING been physically replaced on that vehicle ?

@@MatthewTaylor3 Sorry, probably should add more context. This errors occured after swapping to the Golf 6r cluster. My previous cluster from an R32 had no issues - even when i return it back, those errors disappear.

I've noticed the same thing with the "lowline" clusters in the Golf and Polo series as well. The Caddy is also considered a lowline model as well. You can tell just by looking at the fonts on the MFD I don't have a solution for your case at the moment. I'll try to get a donor vehicle and cluster tomorrow to experiment with

The oil filter was changed the day after. The vehicle really isn't driven much. The oil used is Honda's genuine 10w-30 full synthetic on the subsequent top up. The oil demonstrated here was just for the video as part of a inspecting the oil quality in the sump itself.

It's the same as VCDS. I'll do it in Autel, so you can see what it translates to

@@MatthewTaylor3 I tried but login failed with 31347 code, any tip?

Yes, in my videos, I've successfully swapped over both. For the steering wheel, you need to get the correct caliber steering wheel control module if you want the buttons on the steering wheel to work

You also need the 2010 Jetta bezel to fit the MK6 cluster in the MK5 with an OEM finish, and be ready to do some immobilizer work, and buy a new transponder pill for your key blade.

You will find out that due to how the A-C condenser, intercooler and radiator are sandwiched together, you have to remove the front bumper to access the fasteners. What you are suggesting can be done with a typical Japanese vehicle like a Honda or Toyota. With a VAG vehicle, everything is sandwiched together.

It was plug and play BUT I had to swap two wires around so that the unit remember the last temperature set whenever the ignition is switched OFF. Pin16 was one of those I remember

The 2010 Jetta bezel keeps it looking OEM

I'm happy with my 2016 model too.

Any issues y'all had with em?

I'll respond to you shortly. If you lost your keys, you don't need a new cluster. You only need AVDI or the tool you mentioned to place your cluster in SERVICE MODE, so you can add a new key to it. If you were actually changing your cluster, then you would go with the full set of steps you mentioned. I'll respond shortly after you clarify.

@@MatthewTaylor3 I am going to upgrade the cluster.

@@kelvincheong9234 You are going to need to use the tool you mentioned to READ the PIN, MAC, CS, and power level from your existing cluster or ECU (as they currently match) by placing it is Service Mode). This is initiated by taking your stock one apart (since you have no keys) and reading the EEPROM chip using a programmer, saving this as a BIN file to your computer. You would then use an editor to clear the immobilizer info, then WRITE/FLASH that file back to your stock cluster. You would then partially asemble and attach to your car. You would then use SVCI/AVDI to place the cluser in Service Mode in order to note the items to be transferred to you new cluster (since you say you don't have your keys). You would do the above steps with the replacement cluster, but this time you would WRITE the 4 above mentoned fields to the new one. Before exiting Service Mode, you would simply ADD a new key so you can start the car. Your old keys would be invalid as they are paired with your stock cluster, and can only be written to once.

The drain plug being HAND TIGHT, was just a Honda joke for these vehicles producing no torque. 10W30 is what our local dealership states for our warmer climate. The car has been running fine on it with no issues.

We don't have winter here in Jamaica

​@@MatthewTaylor3 yeah, don't do jokes in instructional videos, you'll make someone f**k up their car

This was done off camera the next day

Yes, what you are looking at is a MK6 Golf-R instrument cluster, but it has the 2010 MK5 Jetta bezel so it fits in the MK5 Golf dashboard for an OEM look (and can actually be mounted to the dashboard). Yes, The MK6 wheel with more buttons will operate the Polar FIS menu items (I use the Kufatec model). You meed to ensure you have the correct Revision "C" clockspring, and also steering wheel control module that supports both MK5 (DDP) and MK6 (BAP) protocols along with the matching steering angle sensor configuration. You will also need a VAG tool like OBDeleven ,VCDS, VCP, ODIS, Autel MS908 Pro (or higher) to do the coding the way you want to make all the buttons work. All 12 buttons on my wheel works. You get the real benefit from the steering wheel swap when you also do the cluster as well (althougth that to immobilizer work involved as well.

Your clock spring would be the FIRST thing I'd replace, as they are known to fail.

@@MatthewTaylor3 do you know where I can get the exact clock spring number? Incase some other mk6 doesn't have the shift paddles

@@pm6911 I'll post a link to an online service manual that will give you the exact part for your VIN. If you asked for the one for a MK5, it would be the part number that ends with "C".

@@pm6911 partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=VW1394 Apologies, I totally forgot to respond to you earlier. Please enter your VIN on this page, and you can find all the latest part numbers for your car.

@@MatthewTaylor3 thanks bud😚

Yes, it was added to a switch in the MODE tab in Betaflight

I did "FF" a range of addresses, but I can't tell you if it is the same range as you indicated. Some clusters are different, but the process is the same. Your Autel tool can and will do it. It will even automate the process for you sp you don't have to be too involved in the nerdy bits. I wished I had a IM608, as I'd be providing that service on a daily basis, as I see the use case for it. The unit would basically pay for itself. You are already familiar with the correct set of steps. Please make a BACKUP of both EEPROMs for peace of mind before having fun with the process.

@@MatthewTaylor3 yeah i can read immo data with autel im608 also pincode and cs code from old cluster and also for new one. Never done this retrofit. Normal use autel for key cloning and key learning and some basic diagnose. Want to have smok uhds also, read that that also can make full backup from eeprom. For what i have found that range of adress should disable the immo active message but never done it. So this wil hé the first try🤣 also have odis, vcds and vcp normal in the coding business active.

@@anthonyg87 Can you please give me the part number for the instrument cluser you are swapping TO I also use a tool called VDO editor to adjust the analog guages, and the feayures like "cluster sweep" and the various backlight settings.

@@MatthewTaylor3 i also have a sort like tool/software to activate needle sweep. Needles to light up etc. So thats not needed. Its a cluster of a 2011 caddy 2K0 swap in a 2009 caddy but need to seen the car first. Its a customer of mine