Video

@@combatdaddy7853 I’ve had a couple of those TBI’s, I don’t think the distributor on those is the same as in the video. I could be wrong, it’s been a bit. Have you tested to see if your starter is good? I have a feeling if all voltage looks good but it just suddenly stopped cranking it could be a bad starter. Another option would actually be the neutral safety switch believe it or not, I’ve had those go out on a few Chevys.

@@eazyduzit5309 O'Reilly's tested it and said it was good, I purchased one of those starter tester remotes today and even that won't get it to crank so I think maybe a bad cable cause I can't think of anything else

Nice! I’m a big Jeep guy, I’ve had more than I’d like to admit it lol. Always loved my YJ’s. Have fun wheeling 👍

Did you use solid or or stranded wire?

@@rylantedrick9470 stranded wire, not sure if it makes a difference or not though

It doesn’t I was just curious, I am having trouble locating the distributor on this thing tho

@@eazyduzit5309let me rephrase, I don’t think it has an hei distributor so I’m having trouble figuring out where to connect the wire that you ran to the battery spade

Yes, instead of sending power directly to the distributor you would do the same thing to the coil. The HEI distributors have the ignition coil built into it, it’s the same difference

Would doing this in theory turn on my acc like radio interior lights heater etc? And would I need to have the switch for the ignition coil on all the time like while driving or once it's started u can turn on the coil switch?

​@@eazyduzit5309can u get the wire from the coil and cross it with the starter wire and put a switch on it or having it like that will it cause the spark to only be there will cranking car?

@@nathangordillo5869 It’ll actually do the opposite. If you power on the ignition coil and the starter at the same time, your starter is going to keep spinning the entire time your ignition is being powered and it’ll blow itself up. That’s why you need a button and a switch. The starter only needs to spin for like a second until the engine starts, so you power it through a separate button than the ignition.

@@nathangordillo5869 the coil switch will need to stay on as long as you want the car to run, it works like the key. On the truck I was working on, I noticed that this trick did not turn on things in the vehicle like your lights and radio. I don’t exactly know why it doesn’t though. But, to play devils advocate, the truck I made this video with was totally shot as far as wiring goes. So it could have been just me, your vehicle might power on with this, but I’m not really sure honestly

Not exactly. The white wire was attached to the starter on the same peg that the battery is attached to. So a one wire goes from the positive peg on the starter to a button, then the second waits goes from the button to the other peg on the starter. And then the green wire went from the switch to the BAT terminal on the distributor. So it’ll be one wire from the switch to the BAT spade in the distributor, then another wire from the switch to the positive terminal on the battery

It does not need to be grounded to the motor, I would check to make sure your battery is good, ground is solid, terminals are clean, things like that

@@eazyduzit5309 I would do that. But it does start right up with the screw driver

@@iandutremble390 if it starts with a screw driver that means your ignition is working fine but there is a problem with the button itself. I would check to make sure the wiring is right or if the button is just bad. It doesn’t seem like a battery issue or ground issue if the screw driver trick spins the starter

The starter should be wired internally, should be good out of the box. Once you send the power to the two studs it completes the circuit and engages. Connect a wire from the positive battery terminal to one of the two studs on the starter. Then run two wires from the button with each wire going to each stud on the starter. So you’ll have one stud with two wires on it (one from the battery, one from the button) and another stud with one wire

@@eazyduzit5309 no i mean like the factory wiring mine melted one day and i havent been able to fix it

The button for the battery/starter will be the same. The switch from the battery to the distributor is about the same too except your need to hook up to the positive end on the ignition coil. There should be two post on the coil, so in stead of a spade connector you would need one of those eyelet connectors and tighten the wire down

One thing to that though is if your ignition coil is just bad it’s probably not going to work. I’m not sure if your wanting a switch/button just for fun or your having wiring/ electrical problems. But if the ignition coil is no hood sending power to it wouldn’t help you, and if your able to replace it and get ignition power with a key like normal I’d probably go that route

I guess any wire would really do the trick as long as it gets power from one place to another, I suppose it’s all the same in the end. The wires I used were left over from a trailer light wiring kit I had in my garage. And as far as the fuel pump goes, these old engines have a mechanical fuel pump attached to the motor, the engine turning creates the pressure. But if your asking me that question then I’d assume you have something newer or have an electric pump conversion. No problem: all you’d need is a wire going from the positive terminal of the battery, connected to a switch (you can use the same ignition switch or you can have a separate switch just for the fuel pump) and then connect a second wire from the switch all the way to the fuel pump. They usually just take one wire anyway I believe, I’m pretty sure they have their own ground built into them. But, keep in mind, that would be if you have no wiring at all in the vehicle. If your car is new enough to have an electric fuel pump then you probably have a whole fuse box with a bunch of wires and fuses going every which way. If that’s the case, your fuel pump may actually turn on if you just send power to the ignition like in this video. So would your radio, lights, ac switches, horn, anything that runs on ignition power. So it depends on your situation.

I have a 1983 ford bronco, guy before me tried making it fuel injected and messed up the wire harness trying to splice a bunch of them together, decided to buy the HEI distributor for it which allows me to do the same wiring as you did to yours, it seems like the starter is way different and I only have one bolt instead of 2 nuts. Might just have to go a different route, thank you for your long and detailed response.

383 in a ford? That’s sacrilegious! Lol good luck to you sir hope this helped

Well it depends, if you have mechanical gauges then yes, your oil and temp gauge will work. I don’t exactly know if electric gauges will work just because the motor is running. The only way really that the cluster will light up is if A, your factory ignition is working and you don’t need the after market ignition switch at all. Or B, if you can find the ignition wire in the inside of the car that connects to the fuse panel (looks like a brick with a bunch of wires coming in and out of it on the firewall/under the dash) and link the power wire and the ignition wire to a switch. It’ll power everything in the car. Radio, dash and lights, power to the distributor, would work exactly like a key does. But to be honest if you could find the ignition wire and the power wire in the factory harness then you really don’t have a need for the aftermarket switch like I have in the video unless you really wanted one I guess.

@@eazyduzit5309 appreciate the feedback bro, I was able to do as you said and find the harness for the key and was able to make it a Legit push to start button with everything , just need to figure out how to disable the key lock for the steering 💯 appreciate it !

Just shut off the ignition switch, it kills the power to the distributor

12 should do it