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I almost fell asleep with this song FOR REAL.. lol

You are great! I think we have what you want.

What if you can't find a stud. Use some sort of anchor or expansion bolt?

Cringy Forced Vocal Fry

Why are you removing and replacing the handrail? Is there a reason not to re use the existing handrail?

Your 36" mark is where you are putting your bracket mounting screw, you didn't allow for the height of the bracket or the diagonal height of the handrail. I would guess the height of your handrail at the top would be around 42 1/2 "

So how do you remove them

Why don't you just install the handrail in the later stage. This will enable easier installation ?

How do you maintain and clean them?

I did it with Woodglut.

5/8” is too tight for the square portion of the baluster. 🤔 I’m not understanding how to slide it up that 1 1/4” up into the handrail to place the baluster into the landing tread.

This isn't a replacement tread, this is an add on tread. Replacing something means you take the old one out and put something new on. I have broken treads and risers, I can't just add new steps on top of them and am trying to find a video on YT explaining how to do it but all I find are videos like this messing up the search algorithm.

I have completed a tread replacement job in which some of the holes for the iron balusters in the stair rail were sloppily bored. Replacing the stair rails is outside the scope of my work, but I want to improve the appearance as a finishing touch, so I have bought pitch shoes and even corrected the pitch angle to perfectly match the rail angle. However, when the set screws are tightened, the pitch shoes tilt to an incorrect and inconsistent angle, so that their perfect fit to the rail is lost. To preserve the fit, It has been suggested to me that I avoid tightening the screws and instead glue the pitch shoes in place. How would you recommend dealing with this problem? If glue is the solution, could you please give instruction as to the best way to accomplish this without making a a big mess? Thank you.

I couldn’t get through this video because the guys voice is so annoying

Alternatively, fix the brackets TO the handrail, in their correct spacing, offer up the completed rail to the wall and mark at least one screw hole in each bracket; this way they'll be no doubt that the brackets will be in their right screw placing. Get two people to hold the handrail, drill and plug the marked points and screw rail to wall. In this position you can fix the other screws at your leisure.

Lmao you mentioned structure and support and then say just hit it with a couple of trim nails…. I’ll just hit it with that lag bolt Through the rosette into the wall stud…

The video is showing measuring front of tread to front of tread. Not Risers so people may not understand though it is pretty simple. Though I do like the torpedo level attached to collapsible painters pole. Genius.

The baluster goes directly Into the wood? What about the collars I've seen, like at Lowes?

I really appreciate this video. I'm just not gathering why the handrail (and sometimes steps) need to be replaced. If you're using epoxy in the railing hole why did you have to replace the whole rail? If the bottom is held in by the shoes, why does it matter if the bottom is a hole instead of 1/2" recessed? Thank you.

What length finish nail do i need?

What saw is that to cut it?

So I screw the base into 3/4 OSB with a single lag bolt, add some adhesive and a few finish nails and thats going to stay stiff for a few decades. Huh. Anybody want to bet money on that? Thats a substandard way to recommend installing a newel post unless you are a house flipper that doesn't care after 90 days.

What too are you using to cut the metal

Why use epoxy? could construction adhesive be used?

It seems There still extra space on the top, will cause unstable?

Couldn't finish this video due to falling asleep to the music.

the guy should take some public speaking lessons.

Hi, I think the balusters are awesome. I know it's mentioned as Single and Double Knuckle but I don't see them on the website. Could you help?

background music?

Hi, sorry I'm not a carpenter so this is why I'm asking. Why not put the epoxy in the bottom hole and the hand rail hole. Install the baluster at the bottom than install the railing right on top? Screw the railing in after.

Still too difficult

Please. Active the subtitles in spanish. Thank you from Patagonia Argentina

why you guys shake the camera?

So the bottom holes have to be drilled exactly the same depth so the rail designs stay all level in line? Advice on how to make sure that happens?

video SUCK. a high schooler could make a more informative tic tock

Great instruction. Thank you for the time and effort you took to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.

how deep should the holes in the stair treads be? The video mentioned 1 1/2” under the hand rail but no depth info for the holes in the stair treads?

What if I don't want to remove my old handrail? Do I just leave it? Is that possible?

What sort of glue do people recommend for us with the balusters to hold them securely in place in the wood? I will be placing shoes over them after.

Any reason the handrails must be replaced? Can these just be installed as replacement balusters into the existing handrail and base plate?

That's a very good video, thanks!

what are the new stair treads you used? Those are gorgeous.

Thank you, Stair Supplies, for posting this video. It is the best step by step instructional video to date.

A great solution for slippery on stairs-seloom stair treads: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0834WGYVP

If the bluster is square shaped and the holes drilled are round wouldnt it show? Serious question planning on doing my stairs

what if your shoes don't have the set screw in them. they aren't metal

I was hopping to be able to reuse the handrails and baseboard.