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What do you mean exactly? This measures ground speed, doesnt it?

The arduino can collect data as long as it remains running and has an onboard storage (eeprom) which can hold up to 512 bytes. So saving top speeds is no problem.

@@bootlegengineer hmmmi wonder if my apm 2.5 can do that i cant remember last time i used it was 4 years or more ok thanks and i think you said you had video that tell all the parts and more detailed instructions on how to build it ... n would you build me one n if so what would you charge for it plus shipping to las vegas nevada ??

You mean this project with a dot Matrix as a display?

@@bootlegengineer Yes

Yes thats true, i didnt know those existed. TEGs would produce more and can withstand higher temps

I dont have one, but I can make one if you want it

Sali, ich würd sege fo de schwirigkeit her isches definitiv machbar für lüüt wo ned so viil mit elektronik sache ztue hend. Schwerste isch eigentlich das 8 segment display azstüüüre. Alternativ chasch der au so es chliises LCD display verbaue, die sind ned tüür und sogar no eifacher zum astüüre. Du bruchsch im essenzielle drü sache: En mikrokontroller, e art fo display und es gps modul. Die sache chasch entweder übertüüred i de schwiiz chaufe (Conrad/distrelec) oder du chaufsch sie fo aliexpress, musch aber mit ca 1 bis 2 Monat lieferziit rechne. So sache wie perfboard, kabel und pinheader sind ned imbegriffe die musch separat chaufe. Au guet isch sones arduino starter set wennd no nix dehei hesch. Ebe je nachdem obs recht chli sii muss oder ned bruchsch halt anderi komponente, aber das sind so standart komponents: Mikrokontroller: Arduino Nano GPS: NEO-6M Display: entweder 8 Segment, OLED, oder es chliiises TFT display wennd so sache im internet suechsch am beste eifach "display arduino" oder so sueche, de findet mir au was mer wott. Ich ha usserdem no es längers vid gmacht wo echli meh is detail gaht: czcams.com/video/ISaaJ2m_QAA/video.html&ab_channel=BootlegEngineer Grüess

Wennd wotsch chanich dir komponente links fo aliexpress schicke, wennd sochli seisch wad wotsch

@@bootlegengineer Viele Dank für die ganze Infos. Also eigentlich alles wo ich bruch isch das Arduino, en Display, so e Grundplatte, en GPS und e Batterie? Muss mer das züg zämelöte oder eifach nur zämestecke und würd irgendwie so e wechselbari knopfbatterie lange um de tacho z betriebe ?

@@skwksksjsjwm2784 Am eifachschte isch löte, aber denn sind komponente fix verbaut, aso chasch fallsds igendwie ändere wotsch halt je nach dem nur müesam entlööte. Batterie isch eifach so dass sie idealerwiis 6-12V het, ich weiss jetzt end wie vill strom das ding brucht aber denk e chnopf batterie wird schochli schwach sii. Ich ha e litium akku brucht aber das wird denn bim lade und entlade au kompliziert. Entweder würi sgrad direkt mit eme kabel a töff batterie henke, die isch ja 12V also ned zu viel für de Arduino und hesch au kei problem wege leerer batterie

Oder nimmsch e 9V batterie, die haut au hii

There are two ways to connect two cells/batteries together. Parallel: here you connect the plus poles together and the minus poles. If you do this the voltage remains the same, one cell has 3.7 two parralel cells also have 3.7V. But what changes is the capacity, as the two cells share the load they need to work half as much thus have double the capacity 3Ah + 3 Ah. Series: here you connect the plus to the minus of the other cell. The resulting larger “battery” has double the voltage. 3.7+3.7=7.2V. You can imagine if you connect one pump to the intake of another pump you get double the pressure as they both add their strength together. But both batteries have the full load so the capacity remains. Hope this helps For a desired Voltage just calculate 60V/3.7V to get a rough number of cells needed in series

@@bootlegengineer Thank you so much. This really helps and will be really useful. Thank you for taking your time to help me when you didn't need to. Just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly, you connected 4 in parallel to increase the capacity, and then connected those in series to increase the power?

Thats the gist of it yeah. Theres one thing that i might need to add. If we think about batteries like pumps that pump electrons around (and this analogy works well for pretty much everything) then the Voltage describes how much Energy/Potential resides in one electron, so to know exactly how much Power we have running we would also need to know how much current flows. Current I(measured in Amperes) denotes how many electrons are passing per seconds. So if we multiply the Energy of one electron (the Voltage) with how many Electrons are passing per second, we get the real Power thats delivered. Why is this important here? If we look at the specs of one cell. It has a limit of 10A for one cell. But if we now connect two cells in parallel each of those can pump 10A so the max Current also adds up to 20A. If we connect them in Series, one electron has to flow trough both of these so at 10A both see this whole flow. Hope this didn’t confuse but i think it was important to fully understand

Theoretically the Peltier cooler should be *more* efficient at cold temperatures, not less.

Well i understand where you are coming from, it would make sense as the resistive losses decrease as temperatures go down. Yet if you check the datasheets of pelties you see that at for example 50C they pump 10% more heat with the same current than at 25C. I tried reducing the current of the higher stages, problem there is that now the waste heat of the base stages is not transported away. Its a hard balance to strike and while lower temps than i got are definitly possible (there are premade 4 stage pelties that can achieve that) the general efficiency plummits as well as the rewatd for additional stages. I think this goes down to the underling quantum effect that takes place. The seebeck constants themself are temperature reliant, i didnt find concrete values but it would make sense that the different seebeck values converge to zero as the temperature decreases.

@@bootlegengineer I'm curious if different semiconductors used to create the Seebeck effect would result in different effects. It's possible the problem here is simply "diminished returns" as you approach closer to absolute zero.

Haha ned ganz Bern aber ha ned denkt dass mer de schwiizer useghört^^

Im not sure if I understand correctly, you want to have it accurate down to +-5cm/min? If yes than it sadly is impossible to do as gps devices arent that accurate. You would have to implement a different solution. If you tell me what for i might be able to give you a suggestion

I made a follow up video with the code linked in the description, incase your intrested: czcams.com/video/ISaaJ2m_QAA/video.html&ab_channel=BootlegEngineer

im sure by now you have the motor. Im looking at ordering it as well. Hows the performance?

@@galacticgamer1752 I’ve got mine up and running. It’s top speed is 11mph with me and my 5yr old in it. It acceleration is pretty awesome so I’m sure with a different sprocket it would support more top speed. Only issue was the lack of hood wiring diagram and how touchy the go petal is from a stop.

​@@ktga67ishi have the same motor and i fiddled with the sprocket size and i hit 30mph on mine.

@@SKITYSTUDIOSWhere did you get the sprocket from?

@@ktga67ish i changed the sprocket on my axle i got a 65 tooth. It was on ebay.

Nice! A hud for a motorcycle helmet was actually what i had in mind when starting this Project. I never completed it tho. And sure, you can link or copy the code wherever you want. I didnt code anything for the display but that should be straight forward if you use a library compatible with you display.

You dont have to modify the code at all, just connect all anode pins (Segment A to segment A of the other display etc) and then connect the two cathode pins to the arduino. That should work just fine

@@bootlegengineer Alright awesome! I seem to have figured out how to do it and I am able to run the first program where it counts up to 999, but when I add the gps code the displays are stuck on 404.

To smooth the start I just increase the speed More slowly in the software, so if the controller has a higher value than the current board speed, it will increase the boardspeed by x every 100ms for example. This motor does not have direct feed back so we can only adjust the desired board speed. There are a lot of BLDC motors with hall sensors, with those you can make a real smooths acceleration curve. Now breaking is a bit rough. I just break via some resistors... but its hard to have the balance between no break at all and too strong of a break + a burnt resistor. Idealy you buy a more expensive ESC that handles that. But hey i wanted the good old cheap stuff