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That's why I made this video. I think you didn't watch the whole video. The output is taken directly from the subwoofer PRE out, like the 4558 IC. I connected that output to an external amplifier for the subwoofer.

Vanthu sappu... 👍

Thank you for your feedback and suggestion, MoK! You make a valid point about the potential simplicity of using a laser printer directly on PCBs. While our DIY toner transfer machine may seem complex, it's designed to cater to users who may not have access to or prefer not to modify a laser printer. The goal of our video was to provide an alternative method that can be easily replicated at home using common tools. However, your suggestion is definitely worth exploring for those interested in a more streamlined approach. We appreciate your input and will keep it in mind for future projects. Regards!

The contact number is provided in the video description specifically for WhatsApp chat, not for calls.

For an Arduino, you can set it up to use the internal 8MHz clock. Configure your Arduino to utilize the internal 8MHz clock, and remember to adjust any timing-sensitive parts of your code accordingly, as the clock frequency has changed. If your arduino originally had a 16MHz external crystal, this alteration might impact the timing of your program.

same here.

Some laminator models feature adjustable roller height. By adjusting the roller height, you can reduce the pressure on the PCB. When the PCB crosses the roller, adjusting the roller height can help protect your PCB without any issues.

@@Circuitoptimize23 thanks for fast reply Can you suggest any model? Can i modify cheap lamination machine for this purpose? My budget is low I don't want automatic function But i want print transfer accuracy

In my opinion, a low-cost laminator machine is not suitable for toner transfer. However, if you have a limited budget, go ahead and buy a low-cost laminator to test the results. But be aware, it's at your own risk. In my suggestion, the laminator is the same as the one I showed in my video. After publishing this video, some viewers asked me to build the same setup. I built four of them, all using this same model. I am satisfied with this model because it has proven to provide better toner transfer results.

@@Circuitoptimize23 I don't have budget to take any risk When i make this Then i will go with same type of machine Thanks to you sir for proper guidance 🙏

Fluctuations in the LCD reading could be due to issues with the power supply or noise affecting the analog components. Ensure a stable power source for the ATmega IC, check the connections, and consider adding decoupling capacitors near the power pins. Additionally, grounding and shielding can help reduce noise. Double-check the wiring and try isolating potential sources of interference.

Contact me on what's app.. Number provide in the video description...

To extend the relay activation time and adjust the delay, simply modify the capacitor without altering any resistors. A higher capacitance value will prolong the on-time delay, while a lower capacitance value will result in a faster relay activation.

Join my WhatsApp...

Possible only using microcontrollers. Like arduino

Thank you sir...

Check Connections: Ensure all connections between the programmer and AVR microcontroller are secure and correct. Clock Settings: Match the clock settings in your programming software with the microcontroller's actual clock frequency. Device Selection: Select the correct microcontroller model in your programming software. If the issue persists, consider trying a different set of hardware components or using the -F flag with AVRDUDE to override the check.Please try these steps and check if they resolve the issue. If you continue to face problems, kindly provide more details about your setup. Alternatively, you can join my WhatsApp, and I will guide you through the troubleshooting process.

I'm happy to hear that! The ideal temperature for perfect toner transfer ranges from a minimum of 160 to a maximum of 170 degrees. However, the challenge arises with different brands of lamination machines. They use varying capacitor values for the Triac in the temperature control section and different types of Potentiometers. If you have the same machine as shown in my video , simply set the temperature as I mentioned. But if you have a different brand of lamination machine, you must first inspect the capacitor and the Potentiometer. Usually, the capacitors are the same, but the Potentiometers differ.

Creating a standalone programmer for Arduino without a PC is indeed possible. You can use an Arduino board to achieve this, along with an SD card module and a simple user interface, such as buttons and a display. However, implementing this would require a good understanding of Arduino programming, knowledge of the AVR programming protocol, and careful hardware connections to ensure proper functioning.

@@Circuitoptimize23 can you make a tutorial for that

May be in future..

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It looks like you're encountering an error while trying to burn a program onto an ATmega328P microcontroller. The error message 'expected signature for at mega 328p is 1e 95 0f' usually indicates a mismatch between the target microcontroller and the one selected in your programming environment. To resolve this, please double-check the following Ensure, you've selected the correct microcontroller model (ATmega328P) in your programming software. Verify your connections between the programmer and the microcontroller, making sure they are secure and correctly wired. Confirm that you have the appropriate bootloader and firmware for your specific ATmega328P chip version.

@@Circuitoptimize23 the error is corrected thank you ❤❤🥰

😂 No, buddy. If you apply a 12-0-12 5-amp transformer to this circuit, it won't function properly. This circuit uses power transistors and requires at least a 24-0-24 10-amp transformer for better performance. So, if you only have a 12-0-12 5-amp transformer available, you can simply build an amplifier based on the TDA2030 or TDA7294.

Yes, it's suitable for a Kenwood 200-watt Subwoofer. However, please keep in mind that driving a 200-watt Kenwood subwoofer with this amplifier will require a high current, which can put a strain on the amplifier. The issue with this type of transistor amplifier is that it can't handle high currents well, leading to overheating and a faster deterioration of the driver. If you are using a 200-watt Kenwood subwoofer, I highly recommend using a MOSFET-based amplifier driver. It's a perfect match for your needs, as it can handle the power requirements more efficiently and is less prone to overheating issues. Regarding the noise produced by this amplifier driver, it does generate a small amount of noise, but it's generally not loud enough to be a significant concern.

The Arduino IDE displays anavrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding error message indicating its inability to establish communication with the ATmega328PU chip. To address this issue, you can consider a few potential solutions. First, updating the Arduino IDE software might prove helpful. Additionally, installing the latest drivers for your USB port could resolve the problem. Ensuring that the ATmega328PU chip is in reset mode before attempting to burn the bootloader is essential; this can be achieved by grounding the reset pin on the chip. For Mac users, trying the deactivation of the "USB Debugging" option in the Arduino IDE preferences might be worth considering.

Same here. Did you solve it?

Sorry for the late reply.. So if you're issue is related on (Invalid device signature) so this the common problem. Invalid device signature error indicates that the signature read from the microcontroller does not match what is expected for the selected microcontroller. Make sure Ensure that the clock frequency settings in the Arduino IDE match the clock configuration of your microcontroller. The ATmega328P can be operated at different clock frequencies, and this needs to be correctly set in your code. And select the correct microcontroller model in the Arduino IDE or programming software. For an ATmega328PU, you should select "ATmega328P" as the board. If you've double-checked all of these aspects and are still encountering the error, you might want to try using the -F flag as suggested in the error message to override the device signature check. However, be cautious with this approach as it might lead to programming the microcontroller with incorrect settings.